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Dry - Oily - Normal - Dandruff : ''Types'' of Hair & Scalp

November 10, 2016, 12:50 pm
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In this post we explore how to understand and care for, the typical range of hair and scalp types.

The sebaceous gland plays an important role in determining hair and scalp type. 

The production of sebum is a natural process that adds strength and lustre to the hair strand. However, diet, blood circulation, emotional distress and drugs and the aging process can all influence production. Salon products are designed specifically to compliment individual needs and work toward producing strong, healthy, naturally beautiful hair. Hair and Scalp types fall into the following broad categories:

Oily
Over-active sebaceous glands produce an excess quantity of sebum, which can make hair limp and lank. This may be due to hormonal changes, often evident during puberty or menopause. Many people have a naturally oily scalp, which can result in greasy hair. Fair hair is much finer than dark hair, hence is more susceptible to excess oil.

High quality - SULFATE-FREE shampoos cleanse without stripping the hair of essential moisture and nutrients.

Dry
Dry hair looks dull and lifeless and is also more susceptible to breakage. Dry hair can only be stretched 15% of its overall length before breaking, while healthy hair can be stretched up to twice this amount, more when wet! A common cause of dry hair is dehydration; water retention can measure between 4 and 13% of overall hair volume.

A change in lifestyle can make all the difference, and there are many products available to help nourish the cortex and smooth cuticles...beginning with GLEAM. Gleam is a little bottle of magic if you ask me - it has fixed more problems on my clients than any other 1 product we carry. It maddens me that there are so many "copy-cat" oils out there, that everyone thinks all OILS are the same. You can't find an oil on the market place that does not have silicone in it, but GLEAM has none of that type of thing, it is 100% Oils from Nature! With essential oils lacing lightly with an intoxicating fragrance.
 

Normal Hair
Normal hair is shiny, supple and good looking and is the result of a well-balanced, healthy lifestyle, combined with good hair care using the right products.

Mixed Condition
Over-active sebaceous glands and poor scalp condition may create a glut of sebum; this can be absorbed back into the scalp, preventing essential oils from traveling the length of the hair strand. The scalp in this condition is a common cause of Pityriasis steatoides.

Pityriasis steatoides is more severe case of dandruff characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales, mixed with sebum, that stick to the scalp to the scalp in crusts. When accompanied by redness and inflammation the medical term is seborrheic dermatitis, which I have seen GLEAM cure more than a dozen times, along with the Scalp Scrub and the Malibu Scalp treatment pack.

. Mixed condition hair types have dry, frizzy ends that are prone to breaking, with oily roots. In this scenario application techniques are very important when applying products to ensure the problem area is targeted. 

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Slices Versus Highlights Demo OR Ribbons of Light

November 12, 2016, 5:00 am
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BABY-LIGHTS or Ribbons of LIGHT
Application & Kit!
 
I feel everyone should take a look at this version of "Slices" so you understand what a SLICE is compared to a HIGHLIGHT ! 
 
Now, the way they are done in this DEMO is not how I would suggest doing them. I wanted to show an exaggerated version to show you the 'technique'. they are too light on too dark of hair, but please this is trying to show you how they lay differently than highlights and hopefully you can see how simple they are to add a few thin ones to your own hair.

Now, in Jenifer Anniston's hair, she has dozens of these only much thinner and using a multiple of colors.In her hair or for that look you would use 
FOR EXAMPLE:
  • ILLUMINA 8/69 + 40Volume
  • Koleston Perfect 10/16 + 40 volume
  • Framesi US/A + Booster + 40 Volume
  • Blondor Cream Lightener + 10 Volume

Babylights - DEMO
6 FOILS + BLEACH = using SLICES





We will call her Holly for the sake of discussion

Holly needs to deal with how much gas costs, and the fact that she lives in a town that has no good Colorists. She is tired of the brown hair and now has Killer Strands to help. She saw, that the professional Creme Bleach in the Killerstrands Store was the trick to not damaging her hair... there are conditioners and lipids added to creme bleach - she read, which sounds a lot more forgiving...added to that the moisturizers and conditioners that will come with the developer that comes with. This way my hair will be in the best condition possible when done. I can do it............. it cannot be that hard.




We will only be doing the one side of the head as we did the other side with another Demo a while ago.


I tried very hard to make this parting look exactly like a piece of apple pie, that should be your trick. She told me to make sure I parted the triangle all the way to the very back of my head and in the exact middle. That way I can put one of my slices of light in the back, on both sides, . . . . it will be in the back of my head and I should be able to do it myself with my rear-view mirror's I have set up on my walls. I've tried it once before and it worked pretty easy. The piece in the back is really skinny so its easy.




This is the Creme bleach lightener - I bought and saw on Killerstrands Color Clinic  I want to do all I can to protect my hair and its condition, I have been pretty bad to my hair in the past couple years.......... I need to make up for that (ssh!)




OK - here are the foils I bought too, I didn't care about the color, I cared about the fact that they were embossed and that made them not slip and being as I don't know what I am doing I wanted to take away "that" from the difficulty of doing foils for me. You can ask for a few foils when you buy the Creme Bleach. They were so much easier to use than most. Now, you absolutely MUST make the edge that I am showing you. Fold it once and then again....a very thin fold as you can see... that fold helps the color from leaking out.




The very first parting needs to be made to part OFF the hair surrounding the face so that it is left out. Leaving it the color the hair is , in my case I wanted it to be brown so I didn't have a weird light blond stripe right against my face. That would look funny I thought, when you see me at the end you can decide.




See how super thin the very first slice of hair I take is??? I had a hard time taking the picture and showing you at the same time but I think you can see. Its less than 1/8 of an inch ! I place that first foil very close to the slice of hair, notice that so when you do it you will do it the same. I had bought a mannequin and practiced on her for a while, it was fun so... I didn't care -- I wish they would have taught us this when we were in high school. 
Remember when we had HOME EC.? I think we should have sewing, cooking and hair color. Why Not I wonder? More people I know would rather color their hair, than cook. 
Maybe it should be the other way around. . . >>............but it isn't !



Notice, where I place the foil and where i begin to paint the creme bleach...Do not put the lightener ON the fold - - - and why do I do this? I learned my lesson, all bleaches and all hair colors ...."swell" when they are processing, which means they grow and the last thing Notice you want is the bleach leaking out of the end ...as it will make FUGLY spots on the hair that you will not like .... so be very careful how far "in' you put the color.




This is too close - I wanted you to see what is too close....just a tiny bit on the right side> see it??...so I took the foil off and re-did it...but I didn't photograph the re-do . . .


Just be aware that happens ...


if its too close to the fold then re-do it....but that's a lot harder to maneuver so try very hard to be very careful at the fold.




Finally I have the first foil done and am closing it up. Fold it in half - - first. Then fold the sides in....




Now am leaving "that much" of the hair OUT OF THE FOIL >>>> about 3/4 " so there is some of the brown in between each foil . One of the biggest problems I see is Stylists who just won't leave the natural color out of the foils.... so there is variation. Again this is an exaggerated version.




The same very thin parting. . . which is the "SLICE" of hair...appropriately named once I figured out what I was doing.




The same pattern is repeated basically all the way up this side of the hair. Now something she taught me that I did not pick up on myself... when I am using bleach, I can time it so it all ends up 'done' at the same time. Like here for example... if you are not fast, mix one small amount of bleach for this side....and mixed the creme bleach with 20 Volume { another good part of ordering from Killer Color Clinic - you can ask for whatever volume of developer you want - i got 1/2 -- 20 Volume & 1/2 -- 40 Volume} . Now to make it so the 2 sides end up "done" at the same time...[like making a big dinner!] 

I mixed up another small batch of Creme bleach with 40 Volume for the other side. Remember 40 Volume work twice as FAST as 20 Volume - - it is NOT twice as strong - it is all the same the only difference is "TIME"....so doing the other side with 40 Volume - makes it so both sides are at the same lightness at the same time - it was perfect !




This was also too close, and I took a DRY Q-Tip and wiped this one off on the fold....so it wouldn't leak. I used a bigger brush and had a harder time!





Again, see how thin the hair is for the slice? Remember that, thinness is perfectness in SLICES




Another slice to be made. . as my trip up the side of the head continues. Make my partings clean and straight its important




Another Slice of light . . .




Applying the bleach and 20 Volume . . . . .




Closing the 3 foils up and continue on . . .




As you go up the side - - see how the width of the slice narrows? ? The last one is not even 1 inch wide!




Refresh the bleach midway up by taking a small squirt of 20 Volume and mixing it in to the mixture




Be sure you keep the angle of each foil correct so that your foils sit like this and end up over

the eyeball, if your foils end up any other direction at all then something is wrong. Be sure to check 
Now, remember do this in a warm room
>> When the foils are done and that is so individual, you will have to determine "how long" yourselves.

>> Take the foils out, and rinse completely untill all traces of the bleach are gone....

>> Lightly shampoo with SLS-Free Shampoo -- Rinse -- towel dry hair....The method of

>> Apply an equalizer ( we have a new one on the way!) let set on hair for 5-50 minutes 

>> Rinse & apply Detangler or THRIVEN or whatever your regimen is


I always apply THRIVEN after using Bleach, it is the single best conditioner and after-treatment in addition to our new Equalizer coming out. You never know you colored your hair when you follow up with THRIVEN.




*** Then Blow Dry




Well, this is your results . . . after 6 Foils - - - Creme Lightener + 20 Volume and 40 Volume and is called Slices of Light or BABY-LIGHTS KIT.  I wanted you to see how to use foils that was easy and works with straight hair. This is not how you should apply foils with curly hair....the pattern would be wrong.

You can change it , I just wanted to point out what I was doing. See how its brown next to my face then - - next to that - - there is a blond slice? I think it looks too fake to have the blond right on the face.

In my opinion ( remember this is just me) I don't like the stripey look, but if I was to blend the colors you would not see how the color in the foils came out. Now if you used various colors, and a couple more foils you would have the colors of someone named "ANNISTON" !
Here is the side I wanted you to see the "6" Slices . . . see the tiny one - - in the back which is why you do not need to do the back of your hair, it is taken care of with the front parting - - how perfect is that? ?!?
I did the same thing they do in all the big magazines. . . I did the blow dry all cool when I had the hair color I liked!
"Isn't it weird and cool all at the same time how much difference I made with just 6 foils! Its not highlights and KILLER CHEMIST says she is not exactly fond of this technique ( using just 1 color) either but I think it rocks . . ."
that's the good part about taste- - we all have it and its all 'different"
one can use multiple colors - -





FINAL VIEW of the look is pretty gorgeous. . . what do you think?
The 6 Foil Transition using Slices of Lights

Remember a BlowDry can change things more than a color, more than a shampoo 

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The Secret To Avoiding Uneven Hair Color Results

November 18, 2016, 5:00 am
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Speaking to people and trying to help them all week I pick up on facts or tricks that I have neglected to point out to everyone so as they come up I will note them here.

As I have told many of you . . . .Professional Hair Color is made to use within the Level System. Using the Level System requires you to pick out color within the Level you are going to use to create the perfect formula....or using other levels to achieve your ultimate goal.

Professional Hair color is designed to be used in "parts"  . .  it really isn't made to pick up one color then apply -- process --- rinse --- condition and dry....NOPE if it was that easy - the Art of Hair Coloring wouldn't be such a tough task to learn and to apply. Its just NOT an easy road, its tough and............hard to understand and ................hard to decipher.

Lets just take a very common formula on a very average head of hair ( none of you are average but I hope you understand what I am trying to say. . . . .

Lets just say you have Level 6 light Brown hair with 40% Stubborn gray (only on the temples) Gray, with a couple of ribbons of blonde that have a tendency to go brassy between retouches. Let me show you how I would retouch her hair if she came to me to have me do her color. . . . . . 


  • First  for the hair on the temples I would mix one batch and the rest of the hair another.
  • Forthe complete formula I will choose:
  • 7/0 ( because Wella runs a full LEVEL darker).......the /0 colors we call "NEUTRALS"  
  • 7/1 - This is a LEVEL 7 ASH ......to fight any orange/reds that come with brunettes - most like an icey brown as opposed to a warm one.
  • 7/2  - /2 colors are MATT - MATT colors fight Blorange/orange /Golds
  • 7/7 - /7 are Browns - to create a chocolatey brown
  • So there is your complete formula 
  • 7/0 + 7/1+ 7/2 + 7/7 + 20 VOLUME Developer
  • for the sides that are tough to keep the gray covered you will use the double neutral pigment series or /00 .........we call them double ZERO's. They have double the pigment in them to cover very tough to color hair. We save these for the end, when nothing else works, for now this is our best warfare on "tough-to-cover" Gray hairs ! ! ! 
  • So on the sides I would use a small bowl of 7/00 + 7/1 + 7/2 + 7/7 + 20 Volume Developer in a one to one ratio. APPLY HERE FIRST, so it sits on the tough to cover hair the LONGEST! ! ! ! !  
  •   
  •  But, the main topic I wrote this for was to explain to you How exactly to mix this formula up - - because it is very very important.  You are to pour each measurement of each one of those colors IN THE>....BOWL. ...........then the most important fact? Is that you MUST MIX those colors together FIRST...... BEFORE you pour the developer in the bowl, otherwise you will get clumpy color. So BE SURE YOU mix all the various colors together FIRST. THEN measure the exact same amount of developer as you used hair color and just before you are ready to apply the color to your hair, you mix the 2 together.......and apply immediately...
  • Remember, work as quickly and as neatly as possible.  

MIX THE COLORS TOGETHER FIRST 

then

ADD DEVELOPER  -- MIX -- and APPLY
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HAIR FORCE ONE - 10,000 HEADS Regimen : Hair Strengthen System by Killerstrands

November 20, 2016, 6:00 am
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This is the time of year I add or detract to 10,000 HEADS, the program I started over 8 years ago on my clients in the Malibu Salon. I will take 2 steps per day this next week and add or detract from a notebook I keep from letters, emails, and responses I get from clients all year long. It's so nice having hundreds of people who are just as eager as I am to come up with a hair strengthening system that truly works on all types of hair loss, hair damage & thinning for women. Many of my clients would go to their dermatologist with their worries of hair loss or more specifically "hair thinning" and would be told "oh you look great - - - you are stressing over nothing, my dear, just go home have a glass of wine and be glad you aren't bald." If really pressed the doctors would give them women's Rogaine, and send them on their way. That type of attitude is not met well by women from the entertainment industry, they are a bit more demanding than that. That is when they all started to open up to me at their appointments. rbsm_43

I had many girls and women finally opening up to me . . . which was not at all a surprise to me, I noticed the thinning myself, I know my clients hair well enough that I could bust them for using the wrong shampoo or a hot tub without treating it when they came in for their appointments. Some called me the Hair Nazi . . . but it was all done in fun. What happened took place over a few years it began with a few women per year, and what was different was that the women were younger - under 40 - under 30 and soon under 20! (men have always had this problem it is new for women) When the problem progressed to a few people every 3-4 month's -- then every month - - every week. . .and when I began having 1 woman per day every few days per week from the age of 17 up to 50... ( I would do 15-25 people per day) is when I put my foot down, 20 year olds with hair thinning ? ? ?
That is just WRONG, and something needed to be done.


10,0000HEADS Head 2009 revision 
 
I met with my assistants to brainstorm - they agreed with me > and we began with our surveys and trying to figure out what in the world was going on. Every rear end that sat in our chairs would fill out a survey... in our attempt to find a common denominator. I've told bits and pieces of this story throughout the Blog, as I will continue to but this is how the story BEGAN.  In my opinion the answer is in the 13 steps above - follow them all for 1 year. If you follow all 13 steps - ( which I understand, is very difficult to accomplish) -  I have yet to find anyone male or female that has not improved their hair to their own satisfaction. I realize that is a big...no, HUGE statement . . .  but not a whole lot of people have truly tried the entire program. That is a whole lot of discipline, but damn it  - - it works! Most do bits and pieces of it and I tell people to get the best results follow the last 4 Steps religiously . . . and do the best you can on the other 9.


killercutscolors617

SLS Sodium Lauryl Sulfate in the shampoo as most of you know ended up being the one true common denominator in all of my clients and now readers. So this is a mandatory step you MUST follow, I have a number of SLS-FREE POSTS you can review .  But through that survey and the next couple years work and research trying to figure out what was going on with my own clients hair, I began work on 10,000HEADS - without even realizing what I was doing. My assistants figured out at one point that I had done over 10,000 heads of hair, which was years ago...so you now have the birth of this very successful system.
Many peoplehave ordered THRIVEN this week, so I am hopeful that many of you are looking forward to developing healthy hair. 

The 2 Steps for today - Steps 1 & 2
Step 1 ; NO SMOKING (of anything)


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I must get at least a dozen people a year that ask me to prove to them that POT is bad for them. Now I laugh, I used to get bent out of shape. I'm a child of the seventies, we were the ones who gave birth to the drug scene in America, so I am not the one who has never tried anything, nope I was right in there with the best of them. When I became pregnant, was when everything STOPPED for me. Completely stopped.  But you cannot tell me that when you take a hit of weed, and its all you can do to hold the sucker in your lungs, it burns so bad, hurts so much, that puff of sweet smoke is not tearing your lungs, your skin, your organs and your hair apart.  With every puff you undoubtedly end up coughing it out in a huge belch of smoke, cough and laugh....AM I RIGHT > ?  Sure that shit is fine for your body. Get real boys & girls its a disaster for your lungs & hair.. I was the first one to vote to legalize it so its not that it scientifically doesn't make sense to be OIK for your hair.
 
I have a relative that died a very very sad and much too early death because of lung cancer, this man was a great athlete, had absolutely no stress in his life, was a very talented artist, but smoked weed religiously from 1950 to 2000 (when he died)  50 years of smoking weed almost every single day. No its not the strength of the stuff today which I hear is like smoking an atomic bomb in todays market, but it was clean,clear and the amount they smoked was just a lot more. But this lovely man came down with lung cancer, and they did everything in the world to try to save him . . . they even gave him a lung transplant. Now I remind you, he was a health food fanatic, did his daily exercises, did EVERYTHING right  . . .he actually had a great head of hair till he was about 65 and then the thinning started. He simply could not quit his pot addiction. It was a very very sad loss and no one will ever convince me that pot was not the single cause of his death.Everyone denies it.

Some facts:
FPHL = Female Pattern Hair Loss is what they technically call it when the thinning starts, I will use those initials throughout. The cause of the failure to grow new hair in female pattern baldness is not well understood, but it is associated with genetics, aging, sulfates in shampoo and levels of hormones (especially androgens, the male sex hormones) . Why, the pharmaceuticals do not have more research going into this area - I truly, do not know. 

smoking label555

A hair grows from its follicle at an average rate of about 1/2 inch per month. Each hair grows for 2 to 6 years, then rests, and then falls out. A new hair soon begins growing in its place. At any time, about 85% of the hair is growing and 15% is resting.  Baldness occurs when hair falls out but new hair does not grow in its place. This is the simplified and EXACT reason for thinning or balding. Therefore the goal is to figure out a way to continue that cycle of hair growth on every single hair on your head and then you will have solved the problem of hair thinning. Now, every single step of the 10,000HEADS regimen deals with the many reasons that will prevent each and every hair from continuing that cycle of re-growth, which is why if you follow them all you will have a wonderful head of hair. With smoking at the very top of the list.

Pot or Cigarettes are a sure fire way to wreck your hair... smoking constricts your blood vessels, thereby restricting blood flow to the hair follicle, slowing cell turnover, which holds back new hair 
growth.
 
Remember my best advice to you is to dust off that "common sense" shelf and begin using it. If smoking KILLS, which we all know - can you imagine what it does to the poor little hair strand that is so tiny and defenseless against the big bad meany - NICOTINE, Formaldehyde, and God knows what other chemicals are in those death sticks. I know its hard, I smoked when I went through my divorce - years ago - it was so hard I chose to quit when I went in for knee surgery and I couldn't walk ! I used the patch as well which I felt worked wonderfully - but I see they have all sorts of tricks now. Just try something. Replace smoking with exercise, it is the perfect pacifier - and you will be knocking 2 of the Steps off the list with one stone! I promise!

Step 2; Nutrition
Ahhh nutrition . . . I have battled and fought this one my entire life. I am always - ALWAYS 
trying to eat better. How about - YOU?
sb10067733k-001I cannot tell you the amount of times that a diet change has helped one of my clients, but I think deep down we all know this. I can tell when one of my strict clients has changed her diet . This is the person that eats the proper amount of protein every day, the proper amount of vege's, and fruit and the whole 9 yards, I can tell when she has gone off and eaten junk for a week, so it is that apparent! 

2008 is when I have truly tried to get more people eating vegetables and most specifically broccoli.  I am of the belief that eating broccoli everyday will help everyone in many different aspects, so if you can - follow me and begin eating at least 1 serving of either steamed or crisp fresh broccoli every single day, I feel it is the one perfect food for your hair.


I have read just so much good about it.      Here is a short piece from a gentlemen that claims to have kept his hair through many years and a multi-pronged approach - kind of like mine - only geared at men. 

 In this year alone I will bet I have read well over 200 articles that give broccoli the heads up for improving health in dozens of different areas. Everyone needs to add this to their diet, and especially if you are dealing with hair loss, or thinning, it just HAS to be mandatory.82190449

Vegetables such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower produce a chemical when being digested that inhibits the action of dihydrotestosterone DHT. Leonard Bjeldanes, professor of nutritional science at UC Berkeley, and Gary Firestone, professor of molecular biology at the same institution, have been researching the anti-cancer properties of plant chemicals (phytochemicals). They found that vegetables such as broccoli and Brussels sprouts are rich in an indole called I3C. I really don't find it necessary to go in the whole technical who-ha, so this is an abbreviated version of his story.

Further research confirmed that this DIM inhibits the action of DHT. It does this by binding to the same receptors within the cell that DHT uses. DHT, is involved in baldness. The research that Bjeldanes and Firestone are doing is mostly centered on prostate cancer and the proliferation of cancer cells, but Dr. Bjeldanes in an email to Haggerty wrote that he is now requesting funding to do research on baldness.

The reason that I stress the importance of getting nutrients from real food instead of from pills is that there are many unidentified nutritional factors in food, especially in fruits and vegetables. These phytochemicals that one doesn’t get in pills may provide a great health benefit.

SILVER BULLET  --  BURST
There is nothing conclusive yet in the research of Bjeldanes and Firestone indicating that broccoli and other vegetables will benefit the hair follicles, but I loaded up on broccoli at the market today just in case.

 By the way, the best way to cook broccoli and other vegetables is to steam them. Boiling vegetables destroys over half the nutrients; steaming destroys hardly any. Just purchase one of those little racks at Target for $3.00 that sits in a regular sized pot , you put an inch of water  in. . . and you're good to go.

  Just a quick paragraph on PROTEIN. Protein is a must for good hair, if you are a Vegetarian, or vegan you seriously need to think about quitting that protocol - Hair is made up of protein and hair LOVES protein coming in the body. The more the better. There are some dynamite protein bars out there. . .be sure they are at least 15 Grams or above and devour one or 2 of those every day just to be sure you get some of the required 50-75 grams of protein daily. Nothing will replace the whole foods themselves, but in reality who can eat that well every single day. You would have to give up the rest of your life to "eat correctly" ! But I do know that revamping your diet  to getting close to what you should eat for your hair every day is not that hard. . . . so just start making the changes. 

Breakfast is the most important meal for your hair so DON'T skip it! Your energy levels to your hair follicles are at their lowest first thing in the morning, and they need a boost so skipping this meal would be your first mistake. Find something that has protein in it you like and begin making that you healthy hair breakfast from now on.
Lunch is the 2nd most important, remember salads have no protein in them unless you add chicken or tuna or turkey to them.  Protein is what will turn your slim salad into a healthy hair meal.

When eating throughout the day it will benefit your hair to eat many small meals or as I call it  . . ."grazing". Eat many little meals all day long, its better for your body as well as your hair.  You know how if you wait more than 4 hours between your meals you get a little giddy or lethargic ? That is the same thing that happens to your hair follicles, so you will want to grab a little snack like a vegetable or fruit ( carrot, or apple) . . . just enough to boost your hair follicles energy levels until your next meal. Remember when that one hair falls out and the next one is supposed to begin growing. . . is involved with your nutrition, you do not want that new one growing in to be starved because you are improperly dieting. That is why you will see almost EVERY anorexic/bulimic with such horrible thin hair.

DON'T STARVE YOUR HAIR.
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To Hell with Black Friday . . . We have Blonde Tuesday ! Our Biggest Sale is Tomorrow!

November 21, 2016, 4:24 am
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 If you have been with us for a Long time you recognize Blonde Tuesday, This has been our best Sale of the Year for many years. You will want to head to our store and SHOP-SHOP-SHOP


Look at all the goodies that will be available


 Check in at midnight tonight in the ''email Blast Newsletter'' 
we send out .......... we will have the code and discount here as well !

KC

 


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Want To Be One of The Best Hair Colorists ?

August 27, 2016, 7:00 pm
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There is no secret that one of my favorite tricks is the MALIBU C line of shampoo's and treatment packets.

I want to answer a couple questions I receive about the line and one that I don't think many of you realize. Years ago I fortunate enough to assist in a master class for Master Hair colorists at SassoonAcademy. It was one of the most amazing days/nights of my educational career and I will never forget it. I assisted under Annie Humphreys and for all you Colorists out there - if you have never heard of her......the first thing you need to do when we are done here is to Google her and learn about her. Everything and anything I teach has come from her and my Educator, which means everything you do in your career has something that has come from this wonderful woman. Annie and her friend Tim Hartley owned Sassoon for over 20 years, before they last sold it, she was based in London and had worked under Sassoon for many years. 

To work under her was a gift and the class was on Blonde's that night and we were given a list of ingredients to get for her and to have her models ready for her to color when she got there.


A couple of the items on the list will maybe explain why I do a couple of the things I do and teach now.....because the items we didn't have that day turned into a living nightmare for about 6 hours. 

Back then hair color supplies were much harder to get than they are now....it took a lot of prep just to try to have the things you wanted 2 weeks out !

  We were to get 12 Malibu treatment packets, Malibu UN DOO GOO shampoo and 2 dozen Oil Bleach Kits !  Among other objects like foils, combs, all the normal items that we had. But we had 2 packets of Malibu C and 3 Oil Bleach Kits and no shampoo.....we called her assistant in New York as she was on a plane on her way. We were screamed at and never had I ever had to go through what happened after that.  People had paid $5000. to attend this master class and it was something she only did in L.A. - every once in a couple years. 

Needless to say, all HELL broke loose, with everyone at the Academy yelling at everyone. I hopped in my car and started the fastest and craziest car chase for hair products in history.  I drove for 6 hours circling L.A. from  orange County to Ventura county and went to over a dozen supplies. I had to be there by a certain time and pulled in 20 minutes late. But I had my supplies finally and everyone hugged me and then I went on to assist her that night which ended up being an amazing experience..  

The thing about hair color to me was............I had been a Stunt woman in Hollywood for nearly 20 years so doing hair seemed pretty unexciting to me -- I had left my ex-husband and he had me "black-balled" in the industry...........so I had a beautiful home and a lot of $$ put away, but I was bored & needed money coming in . I had always been an artist and this was the only way, at the age I was, I could come up with to have a career and have money coming in....instead of just money going out. Who new .............that  - - in the future  - - - I would be diagnosed with a very rare bone tumor in my leg, which would put an end to my Hair Coloring career. {Its funny how life turns out}. But, back to the Malibu packets & Shampoo. 
 Never before that had I realized how important those 3 factors were to achieve dynamite blondes. When she finally got there, I listened to her every word. She said that the Malibu treatment packets were necessary to give the hair a clean canvas so the hair color would turn out completely even with no variations in color. They remove all the chlorine, copper and metals and build up that are in our water, for some reason.  I immediately began using the Malibu packets on my clientele and actually started a trend of them purchasing one from me and then the night before they would come for their hair color appointment, their hair would be ready to go.  I suggest that to all Hair colorists out there. . . . either that or purchase UN DOO GOO Shampoo, this is something I recommend everyone do at home all year long. 

Every Sunday I used UN DOO GOO Shampoo, shampoo in ............leave the suds on for4-10 minutes ( I leave it on 5) rinse well normally and you will notice a difference when you are finished, your hair feels light and fluffy ! 

Let me explain some of the packets:
CRYSTAL GEL ...this was the only packet that existed back then...they have since come up with a lot more packets for various treatments.The original wellness hair remedy, this is a patented vitamin complex that naturally primes hair to provide a crystal clear canvas so all color/perm/relaxers/etc. will react evenly on the hair.
UN DOO GOO Shampoo 
Superior to clarifying shampoos for the removal of styling product resins from the hair, this uniquely gentle, 100% vegan wellness shampoo blends an exclusive sulfate-free cleansing system with soothing botanicals plus moisture-boosting vitamins to immediately remove product buildup and instantly restore maximum manageability. Scent : a mild orange/vanilla  This, if the suds are left in at least 4 minutes, will also leave the hair a clean canvas = so the hair is ready to color EVENLY !                                                                    




 CPR Color Removal Removal
This packet is made to remove hair color pigment, now don't get the wrong idea it is not strong enough to completely remove dark hair color and especially it won't remove black hair color, but what it will do is loosen color molecules and prepare in for removal WITH VANISH, used with theSHAMPOO TRAIN  - follow those and you can remove all hair color


  

 
DDL DIRECT DYE LIFTER 
This packet is used to remove - CRAZY COLORS , Boost & Burst. or any color that is applied that does NOT use developer, which basically leaves the hair strands 'stained'. . .  not colored where the color molecules go INSIDE the hair strands.





 We receive many questions about achieving "EVEN" hair color results. Some with BOOST & BURST and some with Demi- permanent and even some with permanent color.  There are many times when you have received color by hair stylists where they have not followed a lot of the "rules-of-coloring". Many times its why you have left that hair stylist, and decided that you must be able to do a better job than her.....!!! I hear this on a daily basis here. So if you have an UNEVEN base then many times when you apply color on top of an un-even base as it washes out it will again appear to be uneven. What to do?
YOU MUST GET THE BASE even. If it is deeply embedded you should use the CPR and use a Cap and purchase our travel hooded hair dryer.....it works excellent for this purpose...as with heat these packets work 3 & 4Times better than without....
Yes, you may use heat with all of them and they WILL work 3-4 & 5 times better. 
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Small Business Saturday - Get Out and Shop @ Small Businesses in Your Area - Support the "Small Guy or Girl" In Your Area !

November 26, 2016, 12:39 am
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The last thing we want - - - is nothing but large Corporations and Conglomerates Across the Land ......



 How Horrible Would That Be ? ? ? 


SUPER ! ! ! ! !

I hope You Will All Go Out and Support Small Businesses In Your Area. 

Keep Unique, Creative and Artistic Businesses ALIVE and well by making an extra effort to go out and making a purchase at your favorite small business..... in your town today :

SMALL BUSINESS SATURDAY  -- 2016

from all of  us
at 
Killerstrands Hair Clinic 

 
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Cyber Monday : America's Marketing Machines' Last Push to Get You Spending ! 20%OFF - Kenra NEONS Today Only

November 28, 2016, 5:29 pm
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Well, if you haven't heard enough 
BLACK FRIDAY Advertising
(you must be living in a cave, btw) 
they have come up with 
CYBER Monday 
to finish off the Push
 to Get You Spending


Therefore we thought we would give you the opportunity to purchase the New Kenra NEON hair color
(glow-in-the-dark) 
at 20%OFF 
 being as they are so popular now 

Code for your discount is: CyberMonday 
( shocking right?) 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
 
We are super excited about a new product in the works here at Killerstrands Hair ......which is complete and in the testing stages. It is your answer to "metallic Hair" upkeep and color period. "Metallic hair" is at the top of Google"search" words - currently - for hair color and we have tested all metallic hair color on the market place. Some are great, most are not.

Our single most successful product is BURST, it has changed everything for us and I am grateful to every one of you that has purchased and recommended it to others, Thank You for that. The new product is also a conditioner but we are using a metallic pigment instead, we will begin with 12 of our top colors, only these will be metallic, with an ultra-fine metallic cast to them........they will be called :

metallicon 

Watch for the announcement !

KC
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Not 50 Shades of Gray but, 100 Shades of Gray.......Gone! (BOOST & BURST weekend SALE)

December 3, 2016, 6:48 am
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OR .......................
How To Grow Gray Hair Out
..........from years of Hair Color ...
................... Goal: to natural/virgin 
...........without a Lot Of  Headaches ?
 Lets Face It There Are Just Times When You No longer Want to Continue To Fight That Battle ! !
Pastel Hair color Looks Divine on Any Age !

 Everyone is asking and I am a Answering . . . . . 

Just Use BOOST and BURST and the process will take care of itself!

We have 2 new colors:
No.Mo.Brass
&
Hanalei
Which both came from a special request last week, after we made them, we all agreed they needed to go on the line-up.

These colors are actually to help out those of you with annoying brass/gold/blorange......which I had been avoiding because I had truly hoped that I have taught everyone how to have brass-free hair, but I hear that just is not the case ! There really is no reason in the world for it so please join the group and begin asking questions, I will help you directly - especially if you Post the KILLER 18 Questions (they're easy) answers just Google "Killer 18 questions".

But for those that still struggle with those annoying tones, I wanted you to have our products because I have not found a line that lasts as long as ours or that has the range of colors we do. I would encourage you to give our line a try if you have not yet.
 I just continue to receive phone calls from all of you with a new ZEST for your hair color. Letting your gray grow out and trying Rose or one of the many pastels we offer in BOOST AND BURST...........just makes me so proud of everyone. It really does.

We have a couple new colors that actually came to us in a "custom color request", that we all fell in love with - so thank you for that my dear. Brilliant !

One is called:  NO-MO-BRASS, which comes in BOOST and BURST and works on ANY colored hair that has GOLD or Brass in it that you no longer want to see. Seems like an obvious choice, but we brushed right over that. Say you have Level 8 thru 12 Blonde hair that isn't quite as ICY as u would like :
  • NO-MO-BRASS is your color
Say You have bleached your hair and there is gold or brass that just isn't Icey enough for you
  • NO-MO-BRASS is your color
  Then lets just imagine there are some light brunettes out there that get hints of brass/gold/ or blorange and they want help getting rid of those annoying tones..........we now have - I would encourage you to use Illumina's hair color in 8/69 if you haven't - as well.

  • Hanalei.......a Light brown with a blue/violet base
..............perfect for fighting any annoying tones for the lighter brunettes.............if you have light brown hair that you would like not to have ANY Brass/Gold/or Blorange of ANY type that is where you would need  HANALEI. The thing about BOOST and BURST and why they are not just another "purple shampoo". We make our line by hand, with unique/strong and more accurate pigment - so if you want to you can leave the color on for an hour or 2 . . .............WITH a Foil Cap on.............using a hair dryer ( we have a great hooded travel hair dryer for $16.bucks) ...........and that color will help you grow out your gray without any problems at all 
Now if you are one of the many people considering growing your gray out..............

I would encourage you to give it a try. . . I hear of so many that are just having a blast wearing pastel hair color.....with BOOST & BURST you can use them to apply to your colored hair while the process takes place. You can do it yourself in your own home at your own pace.  So many of you are beginning to read this Blog and remember I have been writing it for a decade so there are a lot of good things to absorb. I would encourage everyone to read the whole thing. PLEASE............DO NOT LET READING GO BY THE WAYSIDE..........

Now to get through the "grow-out" period, the color you choose depends on many things....If you want my opinion or any of our group members opinions I encourage you to join our FACEBOOK GROUP.   
Why does it depend on many things? 
Because some of you have 20% Gray some have 80% , some have brown hair mixed in with gray......some don't ......which is one of the more common questions I get.
For that particular set of problems you have a couple choices. You can either use Chrome Chocolate (which is a beautiful Silver/Brown), which is the most popular choice OR Silver Bullet for a more Silvery look.
To be perfectly frank you can truly use any color you like and what these colors do:
 .............is blend the demarcation line from your virgin hair color to your colored hair color. The tint in these are strong enough to cover gray if you leave them on long enough. 

Which gives you an easy way to check and see if that option is what you want to try.

Silver hair is the number 1 color of hair.............people want right now................and YOU already have it ! You should hear what some of these kids go through to achieve a beautiful metallic silver................and again - YOU ! ! !  !  already HAVE IT !

The thing about BOOST & BURST is...........they are what a TRUE - AUTHENTIC Semi-Permanent Hair Color is. 
Authentic Semi-permanent hair color is hair color that does NOT have developer used to mix and apply. Semi-permanent hair color is hair color that can be shampooed out with absolutely NO LINE OF DEMARCATION.
Or, in other words........if you have  2 bottles or 2 tubes or 2 types of powder and another liquid.....of Any type that you have to mix together to apply to your hair, you are using permanent hair color. As long as you use developer, your Virgin hair color is altered.
BOOST and BURST - will NOT.........DO...........THAT !   They are TRUE authentic Semi-permanent Hair Color that we continue to make in large batches by hand. There is nothing like hand -made products in my opinion. Have you ever had a hand-made cake versus a store bought cake? 

OMG the difference is HHHHHHHHHuge

 So, those crap-in-a-box hair colors that you get at the drug store that print Semi-permanent on the box are downright lying.... These big corporations print whatever they think will sell on the box, not listening to what is correct and honest.....it is maddening to me ( as you might be able to tell).
 We have the FDA but they just won't go up against L'Oreal , etc about labeling....I mean I would rather them fight the drug wars than worry about labels but somebody has to informa the public what is TRUE AND HONEST....

But anyway, I just want you to learn the truth and have honest - real education about your hair and the color that goes on it. A lot of you are developing sensitivities to hair color............BOOST and BURST will help solve these problems for you. You can play with them and even if you change your mind. These are 100% shampoo-out hair color. You simply begin using regular shampoo and remember YOU HAVE THE CONTROL of your color. 

The brightness of it..........depends on how long you leave it on. . . and how frequently you apply it. I have heard of 101 different ways people are using it. But to grow your hair color out and begin having some of the beautiful pastels like on the ladies above, I mean......what could be more fun! ? !?!?!?

Once your silver is grown out it is almost like having bleached hair, because as you see in the photo above they have applied a pastel semi-permanent color for fun directly on top of their silver hair.....
you can wear one color for 1 week......then another color 3 weeks later....and then when you don't want to color for a while just begin using regular shampoo - we even have BOOST and BURST in a color called PURE.............which means PURE WHITE !

Enjoy a weekend Sale on BOOST & BURST
20%OFF
 begins today 12/03/16  . . . . . . . . . .Ends tomorrow end of day : 12/04/16! 

Code: 20OFF
 
KC
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Illumina Develops a Fantastic New Color - 5/02 - MATT Level 5

December 9, 2016, 1:55 pm
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Did I just speak another language and lose you?
I hope not!

Wella's Illumina line has come out with an almost perfect color. One of the biggest problems brunettes have is fighting off the Blorange/Gold tones..........so Illumina is capitalizing on the success of the MATT series and has introduced a MATT color to the Illumina Line, for which I say BRAVO to ! MATT colors are Blue-based which means.................


 if you look at a color wheel:


 How do you get rid of an annoying color in hair color?


Remember, you find the color you are trying to get rid of....lets just says it is Blorange (very common in brunettes) ....put your finger on Orange on the Color Wheel ........Now draw your finger across the Color Wheel ..........Straight across...........what color do you see? Across from orange........is BLUE............therefore you need a Blue Based brown if you are brunette or a blue based toner if you happen to be a blonde.

The level system works that way with all annoying tones in your hair that anyone of you may have so remember that. The opposing color DRRRRAWS out the annoying color and pulls it into that NEUTRAL spot. which is what you want to do with annoying tones.

So introducing this new color was brilliant of them .Here is Illumina 5/02 by Wella and Illumina:
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Length of Hair As it Applies to Color Formula + HOT ROOTS &'BLAST' Metallic Hair Color

December 28, 2016, 4:34 pm
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 How......the "length of your hair''is a contributing factor to your next hair color formulation !

HOT ROOTS
I really decided this question was necessary in the 17- Point list of Killer Questions that I need to help people with their formulas in our NEW Group in Facebook. When I am asked about going platinum or the super-lightening of hair....as with bleach or Lightener as I like to call it. Like this photo:   
                    
The length of the hair is poignant in determining the formula. Why? Why?

 Why should the length of hair matter? 

Because the HEAT from your body (scalp too!) is a constant 'radiating'98.6 degrees remember and the ouside temperature is notthat high of a temp( if they are we go in to get in air conditioning - don't we??!!??) 

That warm temp that the body constantly radiates off of our bodies / scalps included <> which in turn. . . .always warms up the hair color's ability to lighten the hair, which only reaches the first 1/2"to 3/4" of hair 'from' the body. When it is warmed up then it speeds the lightening up and the roots lighten faster and lighter than the rest of the hair. HOT ROOTS name stems from the fact that the roots looks hot because they are both on VIRGIN hair AND/OR turn lighter than the rest of the hair. A great solution to that is using one of the many BOOST/BURST combination of hair colors.


 I just continue to receive phone calls from all of you with a new ZEST for your hair color. Letting your gray grow out and trying Rose or one of the many pastels we offer in BOOST AND BURST...........just makes me so proud of everyone. It really does. So many of you are trying colors that you never would have years ago and it is so enlightening to hear.
 
But, that is the main factor contributing towards that hot button term " HOT ROOTS" ! !! 

 Check out this girls hair cut, to the left. Odd I know, but I have always been partial toward disconnected hair cuts in general because they are so different and as an artist I just happen to love, "different". Its very short in the back ...correct ? With a long fringe (bangs). Disconnected means it does not gradually go from one length to another. .........the sections do not gradually go from one to another or the cut is more disconnected than connected to each others sections or layers. { my descriptions is a little hokey - I hope you understand what I mean}. 

(1)The first application would be approx. 3/4" -- "OFF"the Head - - -  to the ends in the long part of the hair. Going part by part, with either foils for powder lightener for the lengths or using cotton and our violet creme bleach Lightener. Lightening the Lengths first - then the last 30-50 minutes (depending on the virgin Level  - of course)

If you were to apply the lightener to the lengths and the roots AT THE EXACT same time..... which is a mistake many people make.... because you MISSED  that part of the explanation (its very trickytrying to teach these complex techniques over the web - but I try) if you commit to reading all my posts ( read them 2 different days if you have to.....about the subject of "lightening" I am confidant you too....will be able to achieve PLATINUM  NIRVANA. 

So to lighten this particular cut is a bit tricky, but for the sake of our current discussion the cut is exactly what I want you to focus on - while I try to make my point about the "length of hair" VERSUS the Lightening Application.
 
You don't need as many applications when you have shorter hair .... why?  Because the "heat" from the head warms up any ''lightening'' hair color or lightener needs.........whether it be Oil bleach...bleach....lighter hair color....high-lift hair color.....and that heat from the body makes the color work to lighten to a more extreme version than the lengths of the hair. If this particular girl were to have her entire head of hair the length as it is in the back......lightening would be quite easy, but with the 2 different lengths of hair .............where do you apply the very first application ??? ( assuming she is a Level 5-6 VIRGIN hair color - a telling sign is eyebrow color many times). 

See this girl to the left ............this is the "HOT ROOTS" result when so many of you want to be lighter and think that if you apply a lighter color of hair color to your entire head of hair that is already colored -- it will go lighter... ( this girl had Level 5 Red-Violet Permanent color on her hair with about 1 1/2" of new growth).  She thought she "could" lighten her hair by applying a Level 8RR on top of her existing color. I receive this question every week for the last decade at least a dozen times a week. The technology does not exist where you can lighten "pre-colored" darker hair by applying lighter color on top. THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS. Besides this weird look , she has added one more layer of color that must be removed in order to fix this. The more layers of color you have on your hairyou have to remove............ the more costly it becomes. So there are multiple ways to achieve the "HOT ROOTS" look ! This needs to have all color removed, and so many of you just apply black on top and forget it. My advice? Don't do that ......takes the steps needed ( which are all right here on this Blog) to remove the color and fix your hair once and for all.  . . . . never using Box-O-Crap again. You may now join our new Facebook Group and ask questions of me directly , I'm not fast but I always get there.....! ! !  she click on this link and sign up if you need some help. I hope to re-open my consultations at the beginning of the year.....but we'll see!

So, if for some reason you have the "hot roots'' appearance on your head Which is why and where the Term " HOT ROOTS" comes from. Many of you use that hot roots term, and what it truly means is the roots of your hair are LIGHTER than the rest of your hair. Whether its long or short ......if you have EVER come out of a new color job with very light roots and your lengths are 1-4 levels darker. . . . . you are the proud owner of HOT ROOTS, there multiple reasons for them, I just want many of you to be aware that there is a name for that weird look you may have....and "if" you paid a lot of money and have this look .......PLEASE go back to where you got it done and speak to the manager, the last thing they "should want" is that look on your hair walking around. They should WANT to fix it. I always felt as though my clients hair was my business card and that if it wasn't perfect I would never let them walk out of the Salon. 
So be sure to stick up for yourself. What you want to request afterwards is the best ''Color correction specialist'' in your town, there is almost ALWAYS one of those in every city.


Many of the BOOST/BURST colors will solve issues you have WITHOUT permanently coloring OR altering the hair which is one of the most endearing features of the colors. It is 100% Semi-Permanent, which means it colors the "TOP" of the hair ONLY ! It can be shampooed out completely with absolutely ZERO residue. That is very hard to find in today's world of large hair corporations NOT FOLLOWING the rules of the Hair Color LEVEL SYSTEM which gives Colorists both Crib & Pro an actual system and regimen to go by, where coloring hair is NOT GUESSWORK. It is a system that works, and when followed your results will be perfect and right on the money!

We do have a new category of colors similar to BOOST & BURST.............and of course its name is BLAST !

Blast is 12 color line that is Metallic. It took months to develop and yes, the price is steep. Why? MICA is expensive and if the line takes off, I will be able to purchase it in larger quantities which will bring the price down. it gives the hair a metallic look. These will add a metallic look to your strands, and work the same way as BOOST & BURST.


We are giving everyone in the first couple months 4 free foils with every purchase so that you may run a strand test prior to applying it to the entire head of hair. Just for safety we have all sorts of results and we will give you 10% off your next bottle of BLAST if you will write me a short few sentence review on how it worked, and any suggestions you may have.  Is hard we have tried it on 10 various heads of hair, but in today's world that is nothing, with the wide variety of hair and people out there. 




















My goal, as it is always, is to have the best products you can find and I can only do that with feedback from you. Please send your responses to "KC" at killerstrands.info@gmail.com  subject : BLAST REVIEW. We will send the code in response. 

I Thank each and everyone of you for supporting our little dog and pony show all year long....we fight the big boys always trying to take over and its not an easy fight. Its no wonder that only 5% of all online businesses make it past 2 years !

That is why I thank you all, because without YOU.......we are nothing. You have helped and you have warmed us all year long and every single one of us THANKS YOU.

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2017- 2 Winning Hair Color Tools Under $5.00

January 14, 2017, 4:12 pm
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 Shape of Things To HELP: King Size Tint Brush!







Applying bleach and colour with these types of brushes make life easy - safe and leak-free, so make the miniscule investment and purchase a few of them for multi color applications which we all end up doing at some point.

We now carry about 6 different styles of Tint Brushes, as with any field they are constantly designing and re-designing Tint Brushes. In 2015 they came up with the various rubber headed Tint brushes and for many different reasons these too . . .  are a gold mine.
WHY? Because they don't soak up the color like the others.....



Remember as a professional Colorist your most expensive expense is the cost of your color. I know when you are purchasing 1-3 tubes of color as so many of you do.....it doesn't add up to THAT much and you are purchasing the top of the line hair color here at Killerstrands. But, imagine purchasing a couple hundreds tubes of color, which I used to do every other Monday. So basically the idea is to 'save' and 'scrimp' on every tiny ounce of that funny looking liquid that squeezes out the tube. 

If you use the bristle brushes you lose some of the product due to absorption by the bristles.....and I know it may sound silly.....but it is REAL and  many of you are busy Colorists so I thought I would tell you a new crazy BEST BRUSH ON PLANET EARTH tip. Purchase one of the rubber headed tint brushes ( red or turquoise) ....then also purchase at least one of the green short headed rubber tint brushes, which are used exclusively for oil bleach Re-TOUCHES.



I have found a way to cut hair color application 'time' in half, and its under $4.00. I bought a 3" wide paint-type brush (which is designed to apply facials and Spa treatments) to test on my own hair on my next re-touch, now that I am also a crib colorist.

The first 2 times I forgot about it & finally last week I remembered. Holy Shit-balls Batman ! Less than 1/2 the time to re-touch my own hair, & I am not exaggerating. I have both nearly waist length, dense hair (thanks to Secret supplement & Thriven) on a king size skull.....well those 3 things make for 1 very long re-touch experience! To re-touch my own hair takes me minimum 45 minutes (& I'm fast !) which is ridiculous. It makes me wait way too long every time because of how much I dread it. NO more !


One shot with this brush and I swear to you, I was done in 20 minutes and was so mad at myself for not trying it sooner, I didn't enjoy what a luxury I had just found.  So now that the wonderful realization has set in I want to make these available to you and they are even under $4.00 !  I have been looking for this particular brush for 5 years, I tried almost every paint brush they sell at paint stores/Home Depot .... 1/2 are too thick & the other half I couldn't figure out what the problem was? ! ?! There is one hiccup tho, but its super easy to deal with. Normal tint brushes don't have metal on them because they are in and out of water so much, the metal will rust - which drives the price up -- and nobody wants a costly tint brush ( also bleach is not fond of metal, so I suggest using this mainly for color). This brush has metal on it, so what I have discovered is, rinse all color out, then take 1-2 minutes to properly DRY with towel instead of leaving to dry in air. It takes so little time to do that, but you just saved 25-40 so its completely worth it.




For the Colorists & Stylists that are our customers, can you imagine how fast you will be able to apply everyone's color each and every day? !  I sure wish these were around when I was in the Salon. This has always been a problem for me and I had tried many different paint brushes that I had gotten at Home Depot, but the thickness was all wrong, it made it so much harder. The key to how successful this one is - -  is the thickness of it and it even has tapered bristles so it is actually the perfect width/thickness & length, which I now understand that is what I was looking for all along, I just didn't know ! It truly is the most comfortable Tint Brush I have ever used and I have well over 100 different styles in my bag! ! Purchase a couple, just remember DRY THEM after washing and they remain as good as new.


Point # 2: One of the # 1 questions I answer each and every day of each and every week is.................HOW CAN I GET MY BURST APPLICATION to be EVEN instead of blotchy. Everyone that has that problem has one of 3 of the same problems as everyone else.  Either you:
  1.  do not have your water filtered or don't use a shower filter OR 
  2. you are using some funky type of hair color underneath ( for example : boxed color or Sally's color or something along that line) . 
  3. You have used OLAPLEX - one of the more recent causes of blotchy hair over the last 2 years is everyone's unsubstantiated need for OLAPLEX. Olaplex over half the time will give you an uneven result. I only know this from the many reports I receive - I have never needed the product to get a beautiful/healthy platinum but I never think people should follow what I do, do what works well FOR YOU !
The main cause is the water. In our water nowadays it is treated with God know what, but I know there is lots of chlorine, and copper and those are 2 ingredients hair color reacts badly to. So having that in your hair creates friction for a semi-permanent color like BOOST, BURST & BLAST!
The best long term solution is to treat your water with water purifying of some sort ( i have a REVERSE OSMOSIS treatment system and a shower filter) you save a helluva a lot of money if you are a water drinker (which you should be if you care about your hair in anyway ! ). Or you can purchase one of the many MALIBU Treatment packets. 


They work the absolute best for cleaning and preparing hair for coloring than any treatment in the year 2017. They are also under $5.00 and are worth 5 times the price. there are 8 different packets but you should chose one of these for prepping hair for coloring either with hair color of ANY TYPE and BOOST & BURST. The envelopes have powder in them which you mix with water = forms a GEL, which you apply and comb thru the hair we supply a complimentary plastic cap with every single packet you purchase from us because if you apply that - the heat it conducts makes the packet work on TURBO CHARGE mode! Rinse very well and you will now see what your hair feels like with out all that crap in your strands. It is one of life's crazy realizations !
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Calculating A Hair Color Formula - KC's Infamous KILLER 18 Questions !

January 23, 2017, 4:18 pm
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Hair Color FORMULATING....
with previous hair color on  ! 

Many books & many Colorists, think there are only 4 or 6 or even 7 Questions to answer in order to get their color Selection. Well, I say, NOT in today's world  !  

Therefore, I put together the NEW Killer 18 Questionnaire. Answer this honestly & completely =  your magical answer will appear.

The tricks of the trade in Hair coloring ? ? ? 
There are no tricks....it's all science/chemistry/art & experience. There is no guesswork if you learn THE LEVEL SYSTEM. It comes down to a combination of ART & Science. You need education in both to be successful and or a master of your own Crib Coloring adventures.

People want me to give them a one word answer for their hair color selection, I would LOVE to be able to do that. But, what I have found out in the years on this Blog? Most of you love hair coloring (I completely understand), and have many layers of color on your hair by the time you find me. That is unfortunate,  as it is the first red-flag in hair color analysis. It changes all the simple Rules, that were designed not too long ago by hair color manufacturers. 


 Killer 18 Questionsby KC
for hair color FORMULA Selection when you have previous hair color on

  1. Texture & length ?
  2. Length of hair ?
  3. Ethnicity ?
  4. Has hair Been Bleached ?
  5. Porosity ?
  6. Boxed Color? How many?
  7. Percentage of Gray?
  8. What Type of Color is on ...Box? Professional?
  9.  Straightener? Ever?
  10. D.U.R.P. - Dominant-Underlying-Remaining-Pigment ?
  11. Your opinion ...Resistant? or Not?
  12. Virgin Color - Level & Tone ?
  13. Current Color - Level & Tone?
  14. Desired Color - Level & Tone? 
  15. Damage? Extent of, all over or sections
  16. Your age ( ball park only )'
  17. Your lifestyle
  18.  What is your favorite SHOE ?
If you need my help, I need the answers to those questions..... start working on them!

I've said this numerous times, but I hope for it to make sense in the "big" picture.
When you have previously colored hair it makes it very difficult to create any new color you desire. The fact that I have told you that the LEVEL SYSTEM is a chart of rules and numbers that one may use to come up with your new perfect formula, only pertains to those with VIRGIN hair. Now THAT my Dear, now-a-days is as rare as a Unicorn. Those rules and system work excellent on someone with virgin hair, but that just isn't that helpful any longer, not when grandma - Grandpa and the DOG !! have their hair colored already!

Just 30-40 years ago, people would go to the Salon with Virgin hair (never colored) ask for a new color...or (mostly) ask to get their gray covered...and they were done. Today, so many of you are lured by the advertising on TV, magazines & right here on the web. Your favorite stars have been paid an obscene amount of money to put on a (virgin!) wig that has been colored by that companies brand of color and smile and lie to you with no regrets or guilt at all. Most of you write and tell me that you grabbed a box of color at the grocery store/drugstore/ or weekly trip to Targeeee(t). Really, since when does the place you purchase the food you feed your children, sell boxes of color that any 11-13-15 year old can purchase and begin the long, downhill, arduous road to damaged hair? This all leads to the problems that end up here at Killerstrands and for which I spend hours trying to figure out ways for you to repair your hair & predict your next hair color choice! Whewwww !!


Many of you respond to me about VANISH...the hair color REMOVER we carry...."how come no one has heard of this product?" I am asked... "why don't more Stylists use it??". There is a saying that goes something like this: "however goes California...there follows the rest of the country"..its from a history book I was reading. 

There was a smile that hit my face when I read that....and I know it to be true.  I mean why? What makes us different out here, and especially in Los Angeles....there must be an answer for that. But that is my only reason on the Vanish question.

Many books & many Colorists, think there are only 4 or 6 or even 7 Questions to answer in order to get the color Selection. I say, NOT in today's world  !  Therefore, I am going to put together the NEW Killer 18 Questions ...I will list them today & and in the next couple weeks will write a post on some, there are already 1-4 posts on each topic currently just put the title of the post you want to read in the SEARCH Bar and it will take you to all info pertaining to that subject. GOOGLE runs my BLOG and search engine so it works really well ! so they are updated with as new information as there is in the world of color. I will strive for the following:
  •  Simple as possible 
  • Clarity for the layman
  • Pictures to help
Laters !



 
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Killerstrands Unique Direction On Repairing Damaged (& Thinning) Hair (Including Secret Supplement Info)

February 20, 2017, 8:04 pm
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Its been a very long time since I have spoken about my completely unique and weird method of repairing, damaged, fried & thinning hair on females AND males. Its unique but I have had in place since I was began in the Salon ( Malibu) 15 years ago. There are thousands of Malibu people who follow this program and my thought was to keep it between us at first. I have slowly decided to open up and share it with everyone - because as I have said before ..."what good is wonderful knowledge, if you don't educate others with it"...which was my theory for sharing all my education with YOU - the public on this Blog.




I have a 2 step theory for recovering damaged, thinning hair ... it was an accidental discovery but it has changed thousands of people's hair including my own & my daughters and half of Malibu's. Approx. 80% of you will have changed hair in a matter of weeks. I suggest using both steps for 90 days, you will know then........ how it works for you.

STEP 1 is THRIVEN
Which is a DEEP conditioner like no other. This conditioner should heal damaged hair like no other, there are 2 things different than any other : their consistency and the fact that the trick is leaving it on the hair overnight (or daytime for 7-8 hours). 

Application: Shampoo hair w/ sulfate-free shampoo, towel dry, apply THRIVEN + massage in. Clip up hair...cover w/ plastic cap, process for 7-8 hours. In morning - just RINSE-RINSE-RINSE. Rinse 3X longer than normal, until most of Thrivenis out and style.

STEP 2 is ENSURE 
(I've called it the SECRET SUPPLEMENT)

(the regular or Protein version is best)  

There are no substitutions for this, it must be the authentic version which btw is available worldwide.  Drink 1 everyday continuously for 90 days, you will see the results by then. I drink 2 but mainly because of my illness. My hair is nearly to my waist and it is thick as Hell. . .  which has never happened to me not even when I was young ! So this 2 step process has worked beyond belief for me and my daughter. Some people worry about the calories and think that this drink puts on weight which for me and all the people I have introduced this to has NEVER happened.

This trick was stumbled upon purely by accident, we have family friends who are Olympians and they drink it everyday, it helps them perform and cures jet lag they said. My daughter began drinking it 15 years ago and her hair went from scraggly thin to thick and beautiful. I had handed her a jar of THRIVEN the month before....The next time I colored her hair I asked her what she was doing that was different besides deep conditioning - she actually hadn't even realized what a change had happened (kids ! ! !). 

So I grilled her and she relayed the story from the Olympians ! The minute she left I drove to Target and bought a couple months worth, I wanted to see if it would work for me, I had just finished radiation and there was not much hair left ! In 30 days after applying THRIVEN 2X weekly (that is what she was doing) ....I began drinking 1 ENSURE and used it for my breakfast as do most people. I could feel a substantial difference and at the end of 90 days my  hair was a whole new beast. I was blown away and continue to be blown away today !

There are no substitutions for this, it must be the authentic version which btw is available worldwide. The bottles come in a 6-pack,  the best price I can find is purchasing directly from ABBOTT pharmaceutical online, purchasing enough gets you free shipping and it comes direct to your home - or Target. I will tell you almost everyone I know drinks the MILK CHOCOLATE, but there are other flavors. People ask me all the time if there are any substitutions and when we began many people (for different reasons) tried other brands and other types of vitamin drinks. Not ONE of them gave the results that ENSURE does, I still encourage you to try this program the exact way I have said !

I will give anyone wanting to try the program a 20% Discount on THRIVEN for 1 week which is Feb. 20 - Feb. 27, 2017. 
Code: ThickLongHair

I really encourage anyone with hair health or thinning problems to give this protocol a shot, you have nothing to lose and I will tell you that once Ensure is chilled it takes like a cool chocolate milk shake. Think about it, it is liquid Vitamins that are absorbed in the blood so MUCH FASTER than a pill or anything else out there. Just think if you are one of the 80% that this program works for.........you could have a whole new head of hair, like we all do !

KC
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The New Kenra Hair Colors ( Amber Rose + Dusty Lavender & Silver Smoke !)

February 27, 2017, 10:11 am
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I have run some Strand tests from the brand new Kenra + Guy Tang Pastel Series. Basically he has 3 colors that come in both Demi + Permanent.......... from the strand Tests a couple are beautiful......you just have to remember that he puts all his colors on top of Light Blonde Hair as Toners really. So remember that if you are considering applying these to  your clients or yourself.

I happen to love the color of the Amber Rose that he has come up with, but we all know these type of colors fade easily, so you must have a BURST , BLAST or BLASTED color to refresh the color as you go along.

Here are the photos of the Strand Tests:

 







 



 




 





These are the type of colors that fade pretty fast so you would want to have one of our BURST,BLAST or BLASTED to keep the beautiful color Refreshed! 

The choice is up to you, I just like to present the facts!
Click here to check out the color.....

KC

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Pretty in Platinum - The Advantages of Becoming Blonde in 2017 { A Shopping List for Turning Blonde - Via the Healthiest Method }

March 10, 2017, 3:16 am
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A great idea just came my way via a multitude of questions regarding one particular subject, by many calls regarding the exact same subject. All in the same week ! 

I can always tell when Spring is near, even if I had no idea when it was, this same thing happens year after year. Its amazing to me that people associate lightening their hair with Spring or a SEASON ....it fascinates me. That may be because being a born and bred tomboy from L.A. ...... I have lived in the most boring weather on planet earth all my life, I know - I know many people think this place is the closest thing to NIRVANA, but I beg to differ with every single one of you. I lived in the mountains at 9,000 feet for nearly 10 years and THAT was exciting, actually paying attention to the weather because it 'mattered' in your livelihood - not L.A. you can pretty much assume it will be sunny and warm most days of the year including Christmas  . . .  super duper BBBBBORING & terrible for the climate change problems we are encountering as well ! So everyone is on the "how to become a blonde train and I want to make it very very easy for you.




I can promise you if you go to Sally's and listen to the Bullshit they feed you that comes straight from corporate's mouth, you will end up looking for a website like ours very soon afterward. How do I know? You guys all tell me so ! 

If you go to a Salon , it takes a highly trained Colorist to perform a "healthy".... "bleach & tone (as the process is called). Many try and many fail. If you want to go this route, be SURE YOU FIND SOMEONE who has a portfolio of photos full of brass-free blondes. There is not a reason in Hell that any Colorist today should not have a full portfolio of hundreds of photos of their work. They do not need a professional photographer for this, not when every single one of you is walking around with a 8G Camera attached to your phone that can be used inside of 20 seconds every single time a client leaves.



 If they don't have a portfolio full of their OWN work with NO ONE Else's name attached - of at least 40 heads of blonde hair that is just what you want......Thank them and leave. DO...NOT....BE...ANYONE'S...GUNIEA PIG for BLONDING....unless you are desperate - broke or a bit off your rocker ! Do something else if you cannot afford it, otherwise you will have one big mess on your hands and it takes a very long time to come back from a mess of this kind -- I promise you I have had to cut inches off of peoples hair with blonding gone wrong.

How to become abrass-free....healthy + shiny haired ...tow-Head ?

 I am always happy to map out this road for you....but it hit me today to help even more people who are passing by quickly as well as you CribColorists . . . trying to accomplish this - by making a SHOPPING LIST in 1 post. Now I will have something to point to and Know that  you have all been given the proper directions. 

I really worry about that because I know everyone has ended up here after some tiny or gigantic screw up by someone..... Killerstrands has become the landing page for Hair Color Correction in about every sense of the word and every color imaginable.. 

To become a brass-free..........healthy & shiny haired......... beautiful Blonde BOMBSHELL - coming from a brunette who has been coloring  and covering up her gray for many years, well that is not something that can be answered in a few sentences.

Not if you want it to come out correctly.  blonding exactly as a highly paid Hair Colorist would do  - - - needs a whole Post and some links for you, to find everything. Most of you that inquire have the exact same set of history that you are starting from so we will go with that for this Post. If you have a different set of statistics then you will need to either make a comment at bottom.....email me.....(or our new method of getting answers from me - TEXTING) .....or call if you really  want to start on this project as soon as possible. 



 Being blonde is where the term "HIGH MAINTENANCE" was formed, so if you have no interest in anything high maintenance, I would suggest changing your goal.  This is a high maintenance operation - when I was in the Salon ( its been many years now...but I charged $750.) my colleagues today are charging well over $1000. The way we do it at the top......... most often it is at least a 2-day affair...........It can be 2 days in a row or 2 days apart within the same week, it simply depends on the issues and people schedules. The statistics we are working with for these directions are the following:

The directions for a bleach and tone are completely different if you have VIRGIN Hair color or if you have previously colored hair in a Level 6 or darker. So this Post is aimed at a person who has the following issues withtheir hair presently
:
Virgin Level hair Color: Level 1-8,
Gray percentage: 0 - 90% &
Previous Hair Color on hair in any level 1-9 

 
Today the big advantage of having  brass-free - healthy Blond hair is ............ you have a gigantic range of pastel colors that you can either wear or shampoo out. So the fun and the excitement I hear from people all day every day....has given me a whole new insight into the advantages of being Blond in the year 2017!

Killerstrands alone has over 40 amazing colorsin the various products like BOOST + BURST + BLAST + BLASTED - which are tinted hair conditioners, shampoos that  and have PIGMENT and or MICA dissolved in them......you can actually have one color in the daytime.................and a completely different color at night time, because you SHAMPOOED the one from the daytime out then put the other one in yourself (its so fricken easy!) -- with absolutely ZERO damage, because the hair color is in the hair conditioner....which makes it come out 100% .................by simplySHAMPOOING IT ! !

  The admiration of platinum locks also stems from years of adulation on lightened tresses. I happen to believe the reason everyone wants lightened locks, stems from how rare it is in natural hair. The # 1 hair color in the world id black! So, this is the complete opposite, its the "grass is always greener"  theory to some extent.
There is a very teeny tiny percentage of VIRGIN BLOND adults walking around, the number is under, way under 10% even !. Sure there is a decent amount of little kids with blond hair, but as we all know as they age and at the very latest when puberty sets in............. those blonde locks have darkened to at least a level 8, if not a lot darker.

In order to be on the same page when we speak about hair color in levels as I have shown you many times before here, below is a Level Chart. The Level Chart coincides with the Level System of Hair Color, which is a scientific protocol of how to properly formulate hair color, this chart enables you and I  to speak in "levels", so then it makes it easier for me to help you. If you said "dark brown hair and I said it, we would both talking about completely different colors. This system keeps everyone on the same page.

The Level system is in place worldwide so it is not a tiny thing us Californians came up with  ! Know these 3 particular Levels about your own hair to make your next color adventure successful.....and especially if you want to go Blond along with us as we make up your shopping List. 

  You need to know these 3 levels:
  1. The Level of your Virgin Hair________
  2. Level of your Current hair ________ (99% of you have hair color on your hair - the fact is pretty likely it is a different color than your virgin.) and lastly 
  3. The Level YOU DESIRE ____! 
Use this chart for those answers:


  
The reason so many questions need to be asked, (I ask you to answer the Killer 18 Questions which you may "GOOGLE") before I will help you. I want to give me the 'right' answer, not just an answer to sell something. I'm too old for that shit....I am more into giving you the correct answer for YOUR problem than anything.  I don't do that to sound like a big-shot.......I do it because it is the one and only way I can legitimately analyze how you can achieve your goal in your hair color adventure....especially if you are going blond. The most challenging of all hair color formula's.

 The reason so many questions are needed is because there is one set of rules for going Blonde if you have :
  1. Hair That is VIRGIN ( never been colored) and another set for:
  2. Hair That is Colored...and even another set of rules for :
  3. Hair That is Brassy Blonde - desires brass-free blond - which is the only way to go really.
This particular post is for -- "going Blonde for those with color on your hair "--  whether it is Crazy colors (any brand),  Demi-Permanent color ( any brand) or permanent Color (any brand).




This might seem crazy to you, but I am just going to make the entire shopping List, for going from Point a to Point Z...............after that I will explain things if I feel they need it.

 #1.) Color Removal. - Everyone dislikes this step, I even dislike it as it is tedious and non-rewarding as a Colorist. But this step is absolutely essential which 80% of hair stylists simply do not give credit to............nor do they perform. I hope all of you Stylists who read my Blog will consider adding this step to your lists of services, it is a great service and removing old hair color is one of the KEYS to having Blond hair look shiny/happy/healthy when finished ! 

For those of you at home, my Crib colorists.............you MUST remove all of the old hair color..........if not all .......close to "all". The absolute best and most thorough way to accomplish this is by purchasing 3-4-5 (I've had people purchase 8 Kits of the product called VANISH ! - (she had pitch black waistlength hair & had been coloring her hair that way for 20 years WITH BOXED HAIR COLOR ! ! !  

Most hair stylists across the country use BLEACH to remove old hair color .............. BIG .... BIGGER ....GIGANTIC MISTAKE.  The #1 goal here is to have healthy shiny blonde hair.............anyone can have dry damaged-- breaking off -- blonde hair. Just apply bleach leave it on forever and boom you have dry-damaged breaking off BUT BLONDE hair. that soon you will have to cut off.

Hair Color Remover is used for removing color ..................
Bleach is used for Lightening hair.
Follow those first 2 Rules and you will at least START your blonding adventure on the right foot.

There are only 4 methods that you can use to remove hair color that will keep your hair healthy.Any short-cuts or products not on this list, will ruin your hair, I was the hair color remover queen fopr Malibu for 10 years, its a weird thing to be popular for, but it eventually pays off. Why?
Because slowly - very slowly people learn why it has to be done that way.

  • #1.Shampoo Train - A little method I came 
  • up with for people who change their color often ( models, rich people, teens, artists, retiree's,poor people who want to be blonde not a good idea btw.,etc..). Process involves using a whole bottle of cheap -crappy shampoo with lots of Sulfates inside - PRELL is on of the best. Shampoo hair - rubbing suds into lengths adding more shampoo creating gigantic lather + clip-up hair on top of head . ADD plastic or even better FOIL Cap. let process for 1-2-3-4 hours....rinse and repeat. Read posts on Shampoo Train  .
  •  
  • #2. VANISH -color remover - This is the single best product on the market. It is the most effective the least damaging and if I had my choice this would be all anyone used. Disadvantage? Its expensive. Of course everything wonderful comes with a
    price. You can use VANISH up to 4 times in 1 day and if we needed to do hair color for an event this would always be what we would use. it works the best if you remove the color one day and on another day you lighten it. But, that is not mandatory especially when using VANISH. Why is this such a miracle product?     ...it reverses the manner in which the hair color got into your strands to begin with, by shrinking the molecules so they may slip back out the strand the same way they came in and that my dear friends is the single most gentle and effective way of removing the color you MUST remove in order to become that banging BLOND you have in mind ! In almost every case, 1 box in not enough.Read up about Vanish color remover - PLEASE     
  • #3 Wella Color RENEW - Packetsthat when mixed with the activator will take out a large portion of your hair color. This product is brand new, it came out 8 days ago and I have not tried it but I have read and studied all about it and have full confidence in it. I have always felt that a combination of all 4 of these methods is your best bet for color removal, so go pile some shitty shampoo on your head right this minute because
    honestly you can start this process this very minute you need nothing but shitty shampoo for the Shampoo Train and that gives you a head start, peoplealways remark, that they are shocked at how much color comes out with that method alone. It also teaches you the power of a crappy shampoo. I would start with one of these packets..........then move onto VANISH. If you have lots of Crazy colors in your hair I would use more than 1 of these packets, or the Malibu CPR or DDL PACKETS...I am imagining that they and the color RENEW are almost one in the Same.
  • #3 MALIBU C - COLOR PIGMENT REDUCER or CPR packet.......or DDL packet DIRECT DYE LIFTER...........  - I have been using these for 20 years and they come to me from the QUEEN of Hair color ANNIE HUMPHRIES - I assisted her one very expensive evening when she gave one of her last MASTER classes...and she was doing blondes that evening and called ahead to see if we had the malibu PACKETS ALL READY TO GO ( we had zero!! - so it was a keystone cops episode of everyone falling all over each other trying to find some of the damn things) To her, she could not even think of lifting a level 5 brunette (with previous color on as well) without VANISH, Malibu packets and OIL BLEACH !). The other 3 that you should also purchase are QF {Quick-FIX Color Correction} + CP - Color Prepare & MALIBU C the very first one. All of them get the crap from everyone's lousy water out of the hair to give you a
    clean-clear  CANVAS on which to place your hair color process. Use one these packets prior to using BOOST, BURST, BLAST & BLASTED for the most vivid results ever.They are inexpensive and worth their weight in gold.  An easier cheaper way of doing this often?Purchase UNdooGoo Shampoo , it has the crystals in the shampoo, so you can shampoo in leave suds on hair for 5-9 minutes, rinse well and POOF a CLEAN CLEAR CANVAS+ + + Ready-To-Color!

That is really the hard part..............be sure you do all of the reading and the remaining items are the OIL BLEACH KITS. AND READING.

Shopping List
  • VANISH - color remover - multiple boxes
  • Malibu CPR or DDL or QUICK FIX or color prepare packets
  • Wella - Color RE-new packet & activator 
  • Killerstrands : GLEAM (4oz) + INTENSIVE + THRIVEN (get the Kit save $$)
  •  Violet /Blue Oil Bleach Kit (4)- If you can swing it purchase the Salon Size...... over-all it saves a ton of $$. if not purchase minimum 4 KITS. DEPENDS ON MANY FACTORS AS TO HOW MANY YOU NEED.
  • DEPENDS ON: DARKNESS OF HAIR, THICKNESS OF HAIR, LENGTH OF HAIR, POROSITY OF HAIR, DENSENESS OF HAIR
  • I  RECOMMEND 4 MINIMUM UNLESS YOU HAVE SUPER THIN, LIGHT ,SHORT HAIR. 
  • THE MOST COMMON PROBLEM i HEAR AND SEE ARE 2 THINGS....(1) PEOPLE DO NOT APPLY ENOUGH APPLICATIONS, THEY STOP WHEN THEY STILL HAVE TO BATTLE WITH TONERS. THAT IS NOT THE POINT OF GOING BLOND AND USING TONERS. TONERS ARE SUPPOSED TO BE OPTIONAL NOT MANDATORY. THINK ABOUT THAT PLEASE. ...........AND (2) THEY APPLY THE LIGHTNER TO THE ROOTS(BASE) AT THE BEGINNING. YOU BEGIN BY LIGHTENING THE LENGTHS ---FIRST! ! ! ! ! ,,,,,,,,,,,,LAST , YOU LIGHTEN THE ROOTS, BECAUSE THE HEAT FROM YOUR SCALP WARMS THE BLEACH UP AND MAKES IT WORK TWICE AS FAST WHICH WE DON'T WANT, OR THE ROOTS AND LENGTHS WILL BE DIFFERENT COLORS ! !
  • TONER- for the 1st time use either PERP or Violet Pilot, but again....... NOT...the...point! 

You must do all of the following reading there are 4 sections I want you to read all Posts, if you do it will give you the confidence you need to follow through on the Oil Bleaching of your hair as there is a DEMO in there I shot photos of which shows you exactly what to do....

One of the trickiest part s of applying the Oil Bleach kits is knowing that Bleach itself only really works for about 75 minutes, after that it works at a SNAILS PACE 

SO IT IS WORTH IT TO TAKE THE OIL BLEACH OFF THE HAIR AT 75 MINUTES.... RINSE VERY WELL...RINSE 5 MINUTES LONGER THAN YOU THINK.... APPLY INTENSIVE FOR 5 MINUTES.......RINSE AGAIN.

now towel dry............then either air dry or blow dry as the hair MUST BE DRY to apply the oil bleach application again. 
remember to bleach the lengths first...............

While you wait for your order to get there - please do all of this reading it will fly by - besides you WANT to learn how to do this correctly.

reading part 1
reading part 2
reading part 3
reading part 4 
reading part 5

OK there you go,
 now remember when you bring up those links there will be over a dozen posts on every link but you will only see about 6 on the first page, when you get to the bottom click on the arrow or turn page link and keep going until there are no more posts.

The better educated you are on this subject the more perfect your color will turn out. It is not really that hard, it is just a matter of having the proper education under your belt before beginning.........and all the information is here.....

An even better recommendation is to read the entire Blog start to finish it is a mini-cosmetology course and it will help you for the rest of your life.

Enjoy and get that reading under way.......

KC

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Fight Color-Fade ( Learn Why Color Application is Uneven? ? ?) - - the POWER of pH !

March 20, 2017, 12:15 pm
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 Fight Color-Fade ! Prolong Hair Color With the Power of pH

pH value is between 0 and 14, a pH value of 7.0 is considered neutral; all values below neutral are acidic and all values above are alkaline. An acidic solution has a positive electrical charge (+), and an alkaline solution has a negative electrical charge (-).

Healthy Hair Vs. Damaged Hair
Normal, healthy hair has a pH value of between 4.5 and 5.5 and is therefore considered acidic. Hair in this state will be positively charged (+) and has a compact cuticle structure. 

The outside cuticle layer is closed and smooth, promoting a natural, healthy shine. The internal cortex is protected, and moisture levels are maintained, ensuring good strength and elasticity. 
Healthy hair has even, normal porosity and provides a good base for chemical services.... therefore your goal should ALWAYS be to have the healthiest HAIR ... POSSIBLE.
 I know it sounds odd, but to cure and repair hair you must replace lipids. The ultimate way to replace lipids is to apply pure high quality oils. Which is why I am always shouting the advantages of GLEAM, our own pure oils from nature product. . . . . .Therefore : Apply Gleam - sleep with it in the hair or even better is to use the Travel Bonnet Hair Dryer.
 
Damaged hair has a pH value above 7.0 and is negatively charged (-). 
The cuticle layer is raised with a dull/matt surface. 
The raised cuticle layer can catch, resulting in tangled hair with a high susceptibility to mechanical damage – caused by combing or other external influences. In addition, the cortex will be exposed to further damage, in danger of losing essential moisture and becoming dry or brittle. 
( Below is a sentence that may apply to all the questions I receive about "uneven hair color application" . . . .)
Damaged hair will be very porous and provides a poor surface for chemical treatments, with potentially uneven results.



I have this problem sometimes because I have always had porous hair, you 'can' be born with it, or you can 'create it'  - - - but it can be solved by a vigorous regimen of deep over-nite hair masks....GLEAM OIL Treatments........& laying off the heat appliances. 

(I'm talking to myself here as well so don't think things are lovely & rosey here at Killerstrands headquarters.... just because I know how to fix and color hair. Sometimes I get lazy ( right now) and then boom my hair reverts back to its shitty/lousy /'natural'texture - which is why I feel I have learned how to fix others hair.  My virgin texture is crap, so it needs care all the damn time. 

 I have to keep up the routine day in and day out.....AND DON'T THINK i DON'T CARE ABOUT THE PRICE OF ALL THIS STUFF BECAUSE I ... DO ! !


pH and Products
 As the majority of hair products are 'supposed to be' a solution, and therefore have a pH value, it follows that this can or cannot influence the condition of hair. I encourage everyone to keep an eye out for pH Value's on products, its the most important facts that should be printed on the bottle - yet it rarely is.

Chemical treatments, such as a lightener, perms or colors, are deliberately alkaline, or have a pH value higher than the hair’s natural value. This causes the cuticle layer to open up, allowing the product to enter the inner hair structure. It is therefore essential to thoroughly rinse the hair following a chemical process and apply a good re-structuring conditioner         ( INTENSIVE& THRIVEN )

Whereas, hair care products are predominantly acidic, and have an astringent effect on the hair, closing the cuticle layer. Shampoos will typically have a pH value close to the hair’s natural level, promoting gentle cleansing. Conditioners and treatments however, have a higher acid value, helping to return damaged, hair back to a normal, healthy condition.
When hair is colored, the pH increases from an optimum value of 4.5 – making it more alkaline and during color development, the outer and inner hair structure is loosened up in order for color pigments to penetrate the hair. For this reason a conditioner or treatment after a color service helps to reset the hair to the optimum pH value of 4.5.

What is the pH of the Hair and Scalp?


Maintaining the correct pH value of the hair & scalp is essential for the overall health of hair. Hair products can control the pH of hair.
What is Neutral pH?
A pH of 7 is chemically neutral. Hair care products with a pH value in between 3.5 and 5.5 are considered beneficial for hair care products.
Variations in pH
When pH value drops below 6.0 the cuticle layer contracts and tightens. A mild acidic conditioner (lower than pH 7) can help to add shine to the hair, as a smooth surface is able to reflect more light; strong acids will however damage the hair. Acid conditioners should not be used when red/orange tones have been added to the hair, instead use a color-specific care range.
When pH value becomes more alkaline (above 7.0) the cuticle layer softens and expands like a pinecone. This is necessary as part of the coloring process in order to deposit pigments within the hair structure, however if the pH becomes too alkali, damage will occur. Also many form products make use of the effect of alkali pH values on hair.
Hair with a very alkaline, porous structure will not retain color effectively. In this instance the cuticle will fail to hold the new pigments, which will ultimately rinse out prematurely.
You can help prevent damage and keep the hair looking fantastic and pH balanced.

In this post we explore how to understand and care for, the typical range of hair and scalp types.

The sebaceous gland plays an important role in determining hair and scalp type. The production of sebum is a natural process that adds strength and lustre to the hair strand. However, diet, blood circulation, emotional distress and drugs and the aging process can all influence production. Salon products are designed specifically to compliment individual needs and work toward producing strong, healthy, naturally beautiful hair. Hair and Scalp types fall into the following broad categories:

Oily
Over-active sebaceous glands produce an excess quantity of sebum, which can make hair limp and lank. This may be due to hormonal changes, often evident during puberty or menopause. Many people have a naturally oily scalp, which can result in greasy hair. Fair hair is much finer than dark hair, hence is more susceptible to excess oil.

High quality - SULFATE-FREE shampoos cleanse without stripping the hair of essential moisture and nutrients.

Dry
Dry hair looks dull and lifeless and is also more susceptible to breakage. Dry hair can only be stretched 15% of its overall length before breaking, while healthy hair can be stretched up to twice this amount, more when wet! A common cause of dry hair is dehydration; water retention can measure between 4 and 13% of overall hair volume.

A change in lifestyle can make all the difference, and there are many products available to help nourish the cortex and smooth cuticles...beginning with GLEAM. Gleam is a little bottle of magic if you ask me - it has fixed more problems on my clients than any other 1 product we carry. It maddens me that there are so many "copy-cat" oils out there, that everyone thinks all OILS are the same. You can't find an oil on the market place that does not have silicone in it, but GLEAM has none of that type of thing , it is 100% Oils from Nature!

Normal Hair
Normal hair is shiny, supple and good looking and is the result of a well-balanced, healthy lifestyle, combined with good hair care using the right products.

Mixed Condition
Over-active sebaceous glands and poor scalp condition may create a glut of sebum; this can be absorbed back into the scalp, preventing essential oils from traveling the length of the hair strand. The scalp in this condition is a common cause of Pityriasis steatoides.

Pityriasis steatoides is more severe case of dandruff characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales, mixed with sebum, that stick to the scalp to the scalp in crusts. When accompanied by redness and inflammation the medical term is seborrheic dermatitis, which I have seen GLEAM cure more than a dozen times, along with the Scalp Scrub and the Malibu Scalp treatment pack.

. Mixed condition hair types have dry, frizzy ends that are prone to breaking, with oily roots. In this scenario application techniques are very important when applying products to ensure the problem area is targeted. 






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6 New Colors by Wella - Koleston Perfect + Color Touch - Mineral Desert Shades

March 22, 2017, 3:01 pm
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10th Anniversary Sale ALL Week Your Fav. Products Are ON Sale ! Check in Here for Products and Codes!

April 22, 2017, 3:12 pm
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We Are Celebrating 10 years 
which Blows me Away

All Week Long We will be Having Sales On Your Favorite Products 
Sign Up for Email BLASTS to find out 'what' is on Sale - 'when'& Codes needed !

First Sale is On Killerstrands own metallic color depositing conditioner:
BLAST
25%OFF : 4/22 Sat. +4/23 Sun. 
Code : 10thAnniversary
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Tune in here All Week Long .......
for the Sales of the Day

and most importantly the "codes"! 

KC AND STAFF 
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10th ANNIVERSARY SALE - Guy Tang Hair Color & Thriven-Lite: 25%OFF : Today & Mon. April 24th

April 23, 2017, 9:46 pm
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Its our 10th Anniversary Birthday Week 
with our 
Biggest Blow-out Sale.... This Fri. & Sat. April 28 & 29

We will be giving a GIFT to every single customer purchase on those 2 days - 
 so if you only want to make one purchase my suggestion is to wait for those 2 days!
(please submit your color of hair in the box marked "special Instructions" - I will be choosing everyone's gift)

If it wasn't for your support we would not be here. . . .
it is very hard to make it 10 years on the web, so am very humbled & very thankful for each & everyone of you & your support. 

Everyday we are having a Sale on 2 items leading up to the big blow-out Sale this Fri. & Sat. !

The rest of tonight & tomorrow ( Monday April 24th) the25% OFF SALEis on :

 



  - Guy Tang Hair Color- 25%OFF: 
Code:Yahoo10Years!





I would love to hear from all of you . . . at the bottom of this post, please if you remember, tell me how long you have followed Killerstrands.

Daily Sales last day will be Wednesday and then big 2 days are Friday & Saturday ! Every one gets a gift and samples of new products !
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