Battle of the Highlift Blond VERSUS Bleach - Photo Demo: See For Yourself

August 31, 2016, 6:00 am

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This an old post from 2008 and I wanted to show you that at one time there existed a highlift that could PROPERLY Lift hair to blonde with ZERO brass from a Level 5-6 ......  which the dollhead came with...... 

I found these old photos and I'm just so very upset that 8 years ago we had a highlift blonde that lifted hair from a Level 5-6 to a Level 11 - virtually
BRASS-FREE

This was a demo displaying how to apply these 

Finally I have the end of the TRIXIE transformation. The battle between the highlift blonds and bleach and how far a highlift blond can really go . I'm sorry my program for writing my posts is screwed up so todays post is going to be very half-assed until I can figure out how to fix it. . .

Proceeding with Trixie to the front quadrants. . . on the right side as you see here I applied Oil Bleach and 20Volume - starting at the bottom of the quadrant and going up in 1/2 inch partings, moving as quickly but as carefully as you can.
Then on the left side of her hair : I used Renbow 100A + White Genie + 40 Volume
the White Genie being the key to this high level of lift. As you will see it equalled the lift of bleach!
Always - Always use INTENSIVE ( changed from IN DEPTH to our INTENSIVE in 2010!) after every single color procedure as you color. . . .Locks in color and equlizes the pH (which locks in color l

On the left BACK quadrant I have used Renbow 100A + 40 Volume = NO White Genie was used. As you can see the result is about a 8NG, which to some is a perfectly fine level to reach, and it does depend on your goals . . . but in this case we were headed towards a level 10 and the result with a High Lift Blonde and 40 Volume does not get there - not on a Level 4-5 Base.

See the result?

Bleach VERSUS High lift and White Genie produces about the same result . . .

as you can now see with your own eyes. The left back quadrant also shows that a straight HIGH LIFT Blond can only lift SO FAR . . . as you can see it gets to about a Level 8 and that's it!

Here I have applied the TONERS on both sides.

Remember it is called a BLEACH and TONE,

ALWAYS - ALWAYS - tone your hair. The best? Color Touch..

 YES - apply INTENSIVE again . . . . you will thank me in the end.

 






HERE we













GO........TRIXIE finished . . .Wasn't that hard . . . or that bad . . . do you think?

     

 See the back left quadrant, is the only one that didn't turn out light enough - although you can't really tell in these photos. . .

Finished TRIXIE
So, what do you think>? excuse the make-up my girlfriends daughter went nuts with markers! ! !  she thought it was beautiful ! ! ! 

What questions do you have?

I mean if you are totally opposed to bleach you can now see that it can be equaled WITH A HAIR COLOR THAT WAS MADE FOR 20 YEARS.
It was first made in Italy and then the USA invited him over here and he made it in Pennsylvania or one of those little states in that area.....until he sold the company to Paul Mitchell......... the chemists were so upset at how Mitchell ran the company {cut their salary} they took the secret to the formula and moved to another company I was told. 

Somewhere out there is a couple of cosmetic chemists with gold in their phones/laptops ! ! ! !

I mean ONLY by using a High-lift Blonde by Renbow --- we could achieve a beautiful brass-free blonde on a doll head no less - (they are harder to lift than regular human hair on a human body)

So in 2008 there was a highlift that lightened Level 5-6 hair color - - - - to a beautiful blonde color color.

......I DO NOT UNDERSTAND WHY THAT CANNOT BE DUPLICATED TODAY? ? ? ? ? ? ?

I still own A COUPLE TUBES OF THAT COLOR, 
IF ANYONE FROM ANY HAIR COLOR COMPANY IS WILLING TO TAKE THIS TASK ON .........

PLEASE EMAIL OR CALL ME - LETS GET THIS DONE,
 WHOMEVER TAKES THIS ON  . . . .
You will be a very rich entrepreneur afterwards - just ask any hair colorist. 

........DO YOU KNOW HOW MANY WOMEN 

.........................IN THIS COUNTRY 

..............ASK FOR THIS VERY THING 

........EVERY SINGLE DAY 

...OF 

..........EVERY SINGLE MONTH 

...............OF 

.......................EVERY SINGLE YEAR ? ? ?

10's of Thousands. . . .

If I was well I would take this on . . . 

So I challenge someone  - - -
anywhere 

who is looking for a smart investment

email: Killerstrasnds.info@gmail.com

KC
Killer Chemist

---

Violet Metallic + Succesful Highlift Blond - BOTH from Kenra

September 3, 2016, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: A Problem That I Find One of the Single Most Disturbing - Society-Wide Issues - That NO ONE IS EVEN TALKING ABOUT. PLease read this and think about it.

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Guy Tang and Metallic series of Hair Color

OK many of you have been obsessed with the "new" to you.....SILVER hair Technique. I refuse to call it granny hair whoever thought that techniques name up needs to go back to doing hair not naming things.

But just today I saw a color Demo that has me super excited, I have the color ordered, it will be here Monday, then will do some of my own testing..... but what I saw was the BOMB! ! ! 
look.
I have absolutely nothing against Guy Tang I actually am becoming a Big Fan of him & his videos'  . . . someone from this Blog suggested I watch him color hair and she wanted to know what I thought about the way he worked.................
 I will be completely honest and say....at first, I was very PUZZLED as to his whole"persona" and why in the world he wears T-shirts that are 4 sizes smaller than his actual size....he is such a fantastic Colorist, someone needs to be a true friend to him and tell him. All he needs is a Stylist and to go shopping with her...1 day and the "clothes" part of his display will be solved. That was the fantastic thing about being educated at Sassoon  : They had experts come in and have us work with them on HOW WE DRESS.........What Tools we use...........The name we choose to use............SO MANY little points you just don't think about that matter. I jump started the way I dressed and just bought a lot of black clothes.

Ever wonder why hair stylists appear in all Black much of the time? If you wear any other color than black you will look like you were rolling in the dirt all day. I tried it and then was forced to wear an apron to protect a major part of your clothes. You end up with crap on just the part showing, it was a ridiculous fight I had in trying to fight the all Black thing, I was never an all black type of person and"dressing up"truly is the opposite way I lived the first 40 years of my life .But I needed a job and this was the only course I had open at the time.
I wish I was still doing hair in Malibu .......it was the best place EVER to work....I had the best clientele in the whole world and  I miss them all sooooooo much. You become very close to your clientele. They come and talk to you and many times I would have some of the moist insane secrets that some hot shot had told me. I remained loyal to them all even all these years later!

 I am pretty sure I know exactly where he shoots those videos and its.......near West Hollywood.( if you don't know....West Hollywood is an entire city that is gay. Yep L.A. has had one of these for a very long time - businesses, homes, apartments, every single person is gay!.) When I was a stunt woman in Hollywood we would avoid that area. In those days and with what I did, we had no gay people in our field - or if they were they were in the closet. I didn't meet my first gay person one on one till after I was 40 !

That in and of itself is a pretty remarkable feat.

I am now....warming up to his unique voice and inflection and now I try to watch at least one of his videos per week - he keeps me a bit more fresh on current trends plus he does hair almost exactly like Sassoon graduates - - which is a huge complement..


My specialty for 20 some years has been silver hair....I did a couple guys hair metallic Silver for my daughters prom in the year 2000.........so Silver is my specialty and always has been... but now Kenra has come up with these metallics in both silver and violet VIOLET METALLIC, which from the models hair was beautiful today. 
There is;

• Silver Metallic Series
• Violet Metallic Series 

The Kenra Color Silver and Violet Metallics Collections NOW includes 6 Permanent and 6 Demi-Permanent shades that are designed for pre-lightened hair. The Silver and Violet Metallics offer artistry and creativity while providing a blue or violet reflection. 

The Metallics Collection can be used to add dimensional highlights or for overall cool steel look. Experience trendy elegance with the NEW Metallics Collection. I guess that ombre specialist from out here in wacky L.A. who is wacky as all Hell [guy tang]( I should talk !) has folded and been bought out by Kenra.....which means everything he does and uses has to be from that one company. Its common in the upper echelons of the hair color world to be "bought out" by a big hair company. I will never forget when my mentor told me she was trying to decide between L'Oreal and Paul Mitchell ....- they do things so differently and not near to the standards of V. Sassoon Academy ...so it was really hard for her. . . .because she was with Sassoon for 15 years..........So she was bought up by Paul Mitchell. . . .  she said the money was so good there was no way she could ever make that much doing clients hair. If I was still in the Salon and got the offer I think I would have taken it as well. Top Colorists make 7 figures.

Kenra Color – Metallics

Get OBSESSED with Guy Tang and the Kenra Color METALLIC Collection ! 

Designed for pre-lightened hair, the Silver and Violet Metallics offer artistry and creativity while providing a blue or violet reflection. The Metallic Collection can be used to add dimensional highlights, an overall cool steel finish, or added into other shades for a smokey look.
I have absolutely nothing against Guy Tang I actually am warming up to his unique voice and inflection and now I try to watch at least one of his videos per week - he keeps me a bit more fresh on current trends plus he does hair almost exactly like Sassoon graduates - - which is a huge complement..            

Before, if you remember there was only the demi permanent Silver metallics so there is now both Demi & Permanent in both:

7SM

8SM
10SM

&

7VM

8VM

9VM 

Right now we can get "Permanent" in both Silver and Purple Metallic, which I am super excited about - for you......

Then we have 

Boost & Burst

(our Color-tinted Shampoos & Conditioners)

in a wonderful complimentary color :

 ICEY SILVER VIOLET

A Problem That I Find One of the Single Most Disturbing - Society-Wide Issues - That NO ONE IS EVEN TALKING ABOUT. PLease read this and think about it.

September 15, 2016, 6:23 pm

≫ Next: 10,000 Heads, 20,000 People and a Blog - - Changed My Life Forever -- I'm Here To Help............. YOU !

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This Blog is definitely a Unique MONSTER.

WHY? 

Because I began writing it 10 WHOLE YEARS AGO. Its hard to remember, I know but 10 years ago, people's faces weren't surgically attached to the face of their phone as they are now.

 NOTHING UPSETS ME MORE THAN THIS ONE SINGLE FACT.

Do you know your face is attached to all of your digital screens in your life ---> 20 weeks a YEAR.

20 ! weeks a year. There are only 52 weeks in a year. Whats next. I think we should come up with a plastic surgery technique for getting them removed and then film that taking place.

 LOOK AT THIS.................................ITS INSANE, 
THIS WAS AT A CONCERT IN ENGLAND. 

WHO'S EVEN WATCHING WITH THEIR EYEBALLS?

What are we going to do about this?
Doesn't anyone care?

 i JUST HATE TO SEE THIS HAPPEN.

So for everything I speak about on here and I will go back to talking about hair tomorrow......

But I just had to plant this seed, if I can reach even a couple people I will be happy.

please go back to speaking to one another 
please

I beg you

KC
                                                  

10,000 Heads, 20,000 People and a Blog - - Changed My Life Forever -- I'm Here To Help............. YOU !

September 16, 2016, 3:00 pm

≫ Next: HOW Is YOUR Hair Color Formula & A Review of Gray Hair Coverage?

≪ Previous: A Problem That I Find One of the Single Most Disturbing - Society-Wide Issues - That NO ONE IS EVEN TALKING ABOUT. PLease read this and think about it.

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Don’t ever think Hair is a “little” thing, 
I found a computer 
and 
a comb 
and found I could change my outlook on the world

The beginning. . . .
About 16 years ago, I made a turn off the path I was on ............
working in a extremely busy Salon, with an overloaded booking of clients, 
there was just not enough of 'me' to go around. 
The turn initially was not taken voluntarily ...I came down with a rare bone disease..............
 pushing me into a year worth of treatments,
 I wouldn't wish on anyone. 

In the course of that year, I too lost 1/2 my hair, 1/2  my weight and 1/2 of my mind !  

To me this major event in my life “meant something”…. it was driving me towards becoming an expert on female hair thinning and loss. This issue of female pattern Hair Loss (FPHL) was becoming a way too common occurrence in the Salon . . 18 – 20 – 36 year olds were all coming to me with the problem. That was petrifying to me at the time.
WHY WAS EVERYONE LOSING THEIR HAIR AT SUCH A YOUNG AGE   
?  ? ? ? ? ?
 
Which was a revelation to me that I was supposed to be working on .....

 [ I became driven to solving the subject of women's hair loss. ("womens hair loss" is entirely different, than men's). 

There is plenty of research and clinical trials concentrating on the male world of hair loss, very little was being done to help women. I knew from my own clientele the problem was bad and getting worse. 

That is when I began my journey into Cosmetic Chemistry and Trichology

I spent the next 2 years in classes, studying and apprenticing under one of the top cosmetic chemists in the country. 
That was the start of my goal in solving the problem of temporary hair loss (androgenetic alopecia) in women.
 I wanted to understand what every single ingredient was, what its chemical make-up is and how it works on the body.. . .. so I could try to figure this out.....I know I am not a trained rocket scientist,
 but I felt I was lucky enough to be in the whole...............

"RIGHT TIME. . . . . .
RIGHT PLACE
SCENARIO"

The idea of chemistry frightened me in high school but when I realized that cosmetic chemistry was simply organic chemistry ... I was disappointed in myself for not taking it, a way back when. 
So many of you come to me with destroyed hair health.
All I want to do is to have you read every single POST on this BLOG that has the 10,000 HEADS words in the title or the writing.
Please do a SEARCH & read the POSTS, I have forgotten and letgo of the fact that I mUST FIRST help the health of your hair, BEFORE we do anything else.
I have 3 products that can completely vchange the health of your hair and you may start over.
READ THE POSTS
ORDER THE 3 PRODUCTS 
I HAVE concocted 
JUST 
FOR 
YOU 
............................TO
....................HEAL 
.........YOUR 
..HAIR
I came up with a little
10,000HEADS started with 20 steps. Over time I added, refined, subtracted, altered and finally... perfected... the individual steps. With the final critical discovery: the protocol works its best {with the highest success rate} when it is worked synergistically. 

In other words; 
each step depends on a-nother,
 in order for all to work to their potential. 

Skipping steps is not allowed by anyone committing to the protocol, 
the first 90 days.
It depends where your results are at, 

that 90 day test period, as to what you can let up on and what you can't, so it is not a lifetime of commitments. 

THE BEST PART OF THIS PROTOCOL



There is an end!

Fully aware that everyone wants a 'quick-fix' pill to solve this problem, I'm here to tell you...that simply does not exist in todays world. All the hair loss kits and pills and lotions and potions that you see are out there PLAIN and simply: DO NOT WORK. If they did, they would be approved by the FDA ( Federal Drug Administration) and the news would be all over the papers, news and TV. 
What does work is LASERS

They are very very expensive at this point....... 

I promise you, solving hairloss and obesity are 2 of the top researched areas in every Lab of both the pharmaceutical & cosmetic industries. Solving hair loss is more important than solving cancer. Many cancer patients die, ending the need for their product, if they could get America a drug,cream or pill that solved hair loss they potentially would be a client for 50 years. Those industries are big business and any good business looks at the "bottom line" 

and profits.

I have absolutely no intention of badmouthing companies for their efforts to solve the female hairLOSS4 (hair loss, hair thinning, hair fall & hair damage) that is not my goal here. The more people that work on it, the higher percentage rate we have in solving the problem. My concern is with the false advertising, its just not fair to the consumer . . they simply have not cured anything. I have heard the same from hundreds of clients, but more importantly I have tested all the weird products myself, in my own personal quest to improve my hair. Hey, I am no different than anyone I want the quick fix pill as well.
There are hundreds of companies that exist on a one time sale of a product to a consumer..in other words - no repeat business. I experienced this at a Salon I worked in, the owners daughter was the single worst hair stylist I had ever seen touch a head of hair. She would burn hair, send clients out crying, colour hair gold when it was supposed to be red.
It just blew me away.
Yet, she had been working there for 3 years prior to me coming and still works there today.
Why?
Why, is what I asked over and over and over.
It took a full year to figure out.
She did only "one-time clients" they never came back for repeat business. The following appointment was either with someone else or they never stepped in the Salon again, they ran for the hills!
 

Same theory for hair loss products on the market. These companies survive on the millions of 'one time buyers'out there. 

The 10,000HEADS Protocol was developed when everything else failed. Its not easy, it takes commitment  & it has a 85-90% success rate (on androgenetic alopecia or temporary hair loss). That is a fairly high number, to most.

Over the next month I hope to return to helping everyone get healthy hair................
PPPPPPPPPPPPPPPlease please 

TALK TO ME



I will be concentrating on helping everyone get healthy hair #1
and whatever subjects you ask me to write about down BELOW  ! ! !! ! ! 1

Thanks for all your support Gang……………

 KC

HOW Is YOUR Hair Color Formula & A Review of Gray Hair Coverage?

October 7, 2016, 3:00 am

≫ Next: Understanding Shampoo - through the pH scale - Does Yours Tangle Your Hair?

≪ Previous: 10,000 Heads, 20,000 People and a Blog - - Changed My Life Forever -- I'm Here To Help............. YOU !

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We've had a barrage of Questions about Hair Color Formula's this week and they are Questions that have been reviewed in this Blog in the past ...... but am happy to review some of the Key points to getting YOUR hair color formula correct.

Lets go over a few points that I have received the most questions about. Many of you are new to Killerstrands and have just discovered our little corner of hair color education and online store supplies.

Link to the #1 Blog Post in :

 Killerstrands - 10 Year Old Blog

Start there and then read forward until you get to here. I can promise you that everyone that has done that has been happy as Hell !
One of my very 1st recommendations for those who would like to truly understand hair color and want to take control over your own hairs' hair color path and honestly learn how to color hair correctly - & how to achieve HEALTHY HAIR while coloring ( which IS 100% POSSIBLE ! ! ). . . . is to take this blog and begin 10 years ago (it doesn't take nearly as long as it sounds) - - - click on this link and you will begin at the beginning of the Blog. Take a weekend - take a month - take a week -- or take a day and read the entire BLOG to receive a quick/fun/easy to understand education on how to properly care for their hair and come up with their own hair color formula -- PROPERLY ! 

That's my number 1 recommendation to all of you NEW to Killerstrands Hair Clinic, I was the first person to bring professional hair color to the public, which just recently I found out it is ILLEGAL to prevent 1 company from selling another hair product online once it is put into the stream of 'products for sale.' AS that is called Price fixing I have learned. Of course a company has the right to not to do business with us, but the INTERNET is here and it is not going anywhere....so why not do business with someone who will represent you well.

Now the first solution to many of the emails I received lately if you want a "quick-fix"  ( which I don't really believe in - there are simply too many things to understand to have a quick fix answer in hair color formulating but I am going to try to help some of you out with this one solution.

Many of you are making the switch from BOXED Hair Color ( or Crap-in-a-Box as I call it) to professional hair color, because through one way or another you have heard if you use professional hair color your results will be more dimensional and basically more beautiful and "natural looking" . When boxed hair color is used over a period of time, it begins to look like shoe polish. 

I understand how people fall into the trap.

Their first Grays appear and they SHOCK-THE-HELL out of the person because it happens so young. . . .or it happens to dark haired people. . . . so the contrast to you is shocking and all you want to do is get rid of it. 
Cover it up. 
We are a QUICK-FIX Society now-a-days. 
So there are a million and 1 little sticks and sprays and bars and powders to temporarily cover the gray......which I don't really sell because if you are going to do anything purchase your formula from us, mix up a small batch of it and apply it to the areas that show only.....THAT WAY, when you go to do your Re-Touch, you don't have some Cock-A-May-Me product on the hair that affects the next time you do your proper monthly Re-Touch . If you need a little help, send the answers to the Killer 18 questions and I will give you your formula. FREE! But, you must answer the questions in  8 words or less  ( that is all I need I've been doing this for 10 years and have it down now)

Many of you don't even want to admit that you go to a hair stylist to get your gray covered as many times it will happen in high school or college and you're embarrassed.......but listen to me..............WHO CARES ! ? ! ? 
NO one cares, getting your hair colored is cool now.
So, you run to Target and purchase a box of Crap-In-A-Box Hair Color and if you have very dark Brown to Black hair, (which is the #1 hair color in the world) the contrast from Gray to Black is horrendous, so using the Boxed Color colors it immediately and your problem and anxiety is gone.  Most of you will just apply it to your new growth ,or roots ( or BASE) and so you cannot tell what it does to the texture of the hair until your hair has GROWN OUT with this Crappy low quality hair color, because at the beginning that lousy color is only on the first inch or 2 of hair. 


It is not until your hair grows out until you can truly tell what this lousy quality, horrible product does to your hair. It starts to make your hair look like shoe polish and it feels like straw. I receive so many different descriptions of how horrific their hair feels, so if its not there now, it soon will be ............the best thing you can do is :
STOP USING it immediately. 

I'm Serious 
stop using it.
Put the words in the SEARCH BAR here on the Blog " Shampoo Train". Do everything that says in regards to removing all 
"OLD" hair color 
OUT
OF
YOUR 
HAIR .

Why?
Because many of you try to go from using Boxed hair color directly to using a wonderful Professional hair color and you cannot understand 'why' the transition did not solve all of your problems. 
Think about going from SHOE POLISH to Velvet.
That is what you are doing.
YOU
MUST..............REMOVE...........THE............SHOE..............POLISH...............1st ! 
Start over and use the quality hair color like Wella . . . .like Schwarzkopf . . . .like Framesi.

But the old lousy Color ( which includes Sally's color, and all lower quality hair colors) has to be removed before you will ever benefit.

Some of you refer to the roots you see in the transition from Box color to professional color................."HOT ROOTS". That is not what that Term means.

So your very first goal is to remove all of the old color.

What is the closest color to GRAY?
BLONDE!

So what you want to do is either get your hair as light as possible........or maybe even put some highlights in ( as much as I absolutely hate them and their look) which will make the line of demarcation less noticeable. Judy Dench's hair is Blonde it is not gray.....it looks gray because of her age, but she has a great colorist and I feel it looks beautiful.

 Here is a very quick fix method for double checking your formula that you have come up with after reading the entire BLOG. The first POST is above.


For the most simple method of reviewing your gray coverage formula.

What Level is your VIRGIN hair color?

Lets use the above photo.............................on the left is the BEFORE photo!
Her virgin level hair color is Level 8

She has 40% Gray
For Good gray coverage use the Level of the virgin hair
So Choose a NEUTRAL , which means a color that has both the letter N and the Number "0"

So her first color is: 8/0Neutral.........use the percentage of gray in the neutral ......so 
8/0N : 40% of formula
8/3G : 30%
8/1A :  30%.................................................always use 20 Volume with Gray coverage.


Remember this is a quick assesement, and alter it for the level of your own hair color.
The most important factor?
REMOVE ALL THE OLD HAIR COLOR

KC
 

Understanding Shampoo - through the pH scale - Does Yours Tangle Your Hair?

October 9, 2016, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: 'STRONG' IS the NEW BEAUTIFUL for Women....... Live By This Code. I have Become STRONG internally, Due to Feed Back From You

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pH of shampoo - magical-simple-solution to ongoing problem

Shampoo is the number 1 Searched for hair product on Google's big board of HAIR search "tags" and lately "sulfate-free shampoo" has been bumped up to number 2 if you can believe that - - - makes me proud. Which means it comes from you, I like knowing what you want to know more about so I am going to stick with the Big G for reference. This will be a gentle description of the term pH, which is so important when "shine""health" and "color-lasting" are your goals with your hair. Shampoo is that product that is on your hair more than any single other product, some of you use it every single day. With that being the case I feel I need to teach you all I can about it, which is a new concept for me. When I discovered how important it was on Google's scale of what 'you' look for under hair, I started to re-think my former stance on it. See, I can change - I love technology ever since I started this Blog it has become a new passion of mine. What a lot I have to learn though.
I am going to start on the pH scale as I feel it is so very important to understand in relation to shampoo and hair care products in general . I never know where to start  on this - -  again its the whole "chicken and egg" predicament, lets see how I do.

Potential Hydrogen (pH)


Understanding what pH is and how is affects the skin and hair is essential to understanding most of the services that you get in a Salon or that you perform on your own noggin. This will be a brief overview of pH and how it works so then I will go right into pH and shampoos. I'm using a couple textbooks to help me with this, as much as I understand it, I tried writing my own post on the subject and ended up trashing it, my version was so confusing, I gave it to my neighbor to read and he had the most confused look on his face. So we will go with this and see how it works. Its not necessary to fully understand pH, but I would like you to at least have an idea what it is for future reference. Having the proper pH shampoo makes ALL the difference in the world, as far as tangling and hairs condition at the end of the shampoo.

Many of you have complained about a particular shampoo that is Sulfate-free - thinking the sulfate-free is the cause, which couldn't be farther from the truth. The cause of very tangle-y hair post-shampooing is: improper pH of the shampoo, which is such a simple thing to fix. 


Water and pH
First we need to understand a bit about ions. An ion is an atom or molecule that carries an electrical charge. Ionization is the separating of a substance into ions. These ions have opposite electrical charges... An ion with a negative electrical charge is an anion and an ion with a positive electrical charge is a cation. Now Ions are at the base of that T3 Dryer that is such a big hit now which I will go into at a later date and subject.
In pure water, some of the water molecules naturally ionize into hydrogen ions and hydroxide ions. The pH scale measures those ions. The hydrogen ion (H+) is acidic..the hydroxide ion (OH) is alkaline, pH is only possible because of this ionization of water. Only aqueous solutions have pH, Non-aqueous solutions (oil and alcohol) do not have pH . . . without water there is no pH.

In pure water, every water molecule that ionizes produces one hydrogen ion and one hydroxide ion. Pure water is neutral because it contains the same number of hydrogen ions as hydroxide ions, meaning it is neither acidic nor alkaline. Pure water is 50 percent acidic and 50 % alkaline.

The pH Scale
The terms "parts hydrogen" or "potential hydrogen" are used to describe pH.  In fact, the term pH originates from the French term pouvoir hydrogene , or hydrogen power" and means the relative degree of acidity and alkalinity of a substance. Notice that pH is written with a small p and a capital H ( which represents the hydrogen ion, H+) the symbol pH represents the quantity of hydrogen ions.
The pH values are arranged on a scale ranging from 0 to 14. A pH of 7 indicates a neutral solution, a pH below 7 indicates an acidic solution and a pH above 7 indicates an alkaline solution.
The pH scale is a logarithmic scale, this means that in a pH scale, a change of one whole number represents a tenfold change in pH. A pH of 8 is 10 times more alkaline than a pH of 7...a change of 2 whole numbers indicates a change of 10 times 10 or a one hundred-fold change. A pH of 9  is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 7.
Pure water, with a pH of 7, is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 5. Since the average pH of hair and skin is 5, pure water is 100 times more alkaline than your hair and skin, even though it has a neutral pH.
Pure water can cause the hair to swell by as much as 20 percent.

pH and Shampoo
Understanding pH levels will help you select the proper shampoo for yourself . Remember, the amount of hydrogen in a solution, determines whether it is more alkaline or acid, is measured on a pH scale that has a range from 0 to 14.

• a shampoo that is more acid can have a pH rating from 0 to 6.9 
• a shampoo that is more alkaline can have a pH rating from 7.1 to 14.
• The higher the pH rating ( more alkaline), the stronger and harsher the shampoo is to the hair. A high pH shampoo can leave the hair dry and brittle.
• Now why shampoo's don't have pH ratings printed on them instead of all the other words and BS I will never know, this is one of the key measures  of knowing if the shampoo is going to work correctly (of course there are others).
• Ultimate pH for a shampoo you purchase?  5.0 - 6.0

The Chemistry of Shampoos
To determine which shampoo will leave your hair in the best condition, I must explain some of the chemical ingredients regularly found in shampoos. Most shampoo's share many ingredients in common. It is often the small differences in formulation that make one shampoo better than another for a particular hair texture or condition.
Water is the main ingredient in all shampoos and commonly is added at the rate of 30-40% of the formula. Generally it is not just plain water, but purified or de-ionized ( ions removed) water. Water is usually the first ingredient listed, which indicates that the shampoo contains more water than anything else. From there on, ingredients are listed in descending order, according to the percentage of each ingredient in the shampoo or formula. This is how it is 'supposed' to be done but I would guess 8 times out of 10 it is not. Regulating hundreds of thousands of beauty products would require every single agency of the government shutting down and helping the FDA, it is virtually impossible, so it basically self-governed and you can imagine how successful and correct that maneuver is.

Surfactants
The second ingredient that most shampoos have in common is the primary surfactant or base detergent. These 2 terms, surfactant and detergent mean the same thing: cleansing or "surface active" agent.
A surfactant molecule has two ends" a hydrophilic or water-attracting "head" and a lipophilic or oil-attracting "tail". During the shampoo process, the hydrophilic head attracts water, and the lipophilic tail attracts OIL, this creates a push-pull process that causes the oils, dirt, and deposits to roll up into little balls that can be lifted off in the water and rinsed from the hair ( see the photos).

Other ingredients are added to the base surfactants to create a wide variety of shampoo formulas. Moisturizers, oils, proteins, preservatives, foam enhancer's and perfumes are all standard components of shampoos. On a previous post I listed 12 or surfactants that are considered safe, I have worked with each one and to be perfectly honest, shampoo's are not my forte...but wanted to just see - feel - smell and observe the materials with hair under the scope - for my own security - in  recommending them.  I know that probably sounds super UN-scientific, but I feel that is what these super cosmetic chemists - miss. Just plain common sense issues, like the scent of a particular ingredient being so caustic, how could it possibly be gentle enough for hair. Or the texture of this is so rough and the scent so strong, there just has to be a better choice. That is what began my suspicions with Sodium Lauryl Sulfates 7 years ago.  When I opened the jar and seriously, could not take a breath of air it was honestly that burning to the skin in my nostrils, . . . that alone was a huge red 'common sense' - flag. Why no one but me - started talking about it, I will never know .
Yes, later there have come many "Safe Cosmetics" organizations ... but they don't do it right either - They go the complete opposite direction and think everything is bad, and that's not at all how it works, either.  Not everything is bad or unsafe. . .that is as bad of a generalization as the other groups missing the dangers of SLS - it truly is. You can't 'ban' everything, that is the way politicians work...we have no room for that in cosmetics.  I just want to begin explaining this to you, its a big concept but many of you seem eager to learn it, I thought it would bore you all so earlier I decided not to open the bag, besides its bad for business . . . all the big companies won't advertise on my site because I say Boxed hair color kits are horrific - but look at me will ya ? ?  I can't keep my mouth shut!  It would make my life a whole lot easier, if I just conformed and didn't talk about them - I would be making a lot better income off of advertising on this site. This has now become a very well known hair web site, I get lots and lots of traffic everyday without the big boys advertising on my site - but I am trying to break into the next level and get some big advertisers on my site, it won't happen as long as I leave the info up about how bad boxed hair color kits are. But If I don't tell you the truth, you will never get it, and that really is pointless to me.  So . . .  there is the truth. I need your support and I need to know you all want to know the truth in this info - so I know I am doing it for you and you care.
 
There are many "natural" ingredients that are very harsh as well, that just should not be what you look for.  "Natural" and "organic" are the most fought about topics / the most argued over words in the cosmetics business right now. Every single month in my trade magazines will be another view on what one more group thinks the word "natural" and "organic" means - - please take that into consideration. Those words will never be the answer to the problem, so drop that theory.
Technically as I've said before . . . water is not really 'technically'natural - as funny as that sounds ... it does not come from nature - - it comes from the heavens. With scientists you should hear them fight over the word, it will simply - - - NEVER BE SOLVED  - - ever. I feel both sides have valid points, so its simply time to move on from it.
Remember that there are also harsh and incompatible ingredients in nature for your hair, its needs to be a very simple study and honest reviewed by a competent cosmetic chemist that is not funded by any of the big corporate manufacturers, that is hard to find.
Begin and never stop reading the ingredients on the label, you must -  you must - you must. I fully realize they seem intimidating, BUT that is how I started and a very famous cosmetic chemist told me when I began, just start reading and saying them - over & over & over, they begin to sink in eventually. . .



I never took chemistry in school I was terrified of the "word'', but you know what? He was 100% correct. I couldn't pronounce Sodium Lauryl Sulfates,  and now I now the names of about 15 sulfates by memory... remember I was raised a jock not an academic - so there is no one this is more foreign to, than me. It will make you feel proud of yourself the first time you pipe off the name of one of these scientific names with confidence - and YOU WILL! Talk to your girlfriends about them, people want to know about this subject, you become the new expert in your group of friends . . . that's how we all get smarter and all start helping each other have better hair. Wouldn't you rather be "looking' at nice hair when standing in lines at the Grocery store?

I sure would - - it comes from proper education - that's the compliments I receive from 'you' - the readers - - all the time.

'STRONG' IS the NEW BEAUTIFUL for Women....... Live By This Code. I have Become STRONG internally, Due to Feed Back From You

October 12, 2016, 5:00 am

≫ Next: Little Xtra Help From K.C.in October, Analyzing Orders You Place or Question You Ask !

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So Many Men are in the News and at the Fore Front of  eCommerce Businesses.

You rarely hear of women who are successful
BUT, due to: ALL OF YOU... and a lot of mental 'hard work' that had nothing to do with 'physical strength' .... you & I have been successful.  
We have all together been successful in this business devoted to (you) the new CRIB COLORISTS.

I Received this mini-Award from GOOGLE & SHOPIFY Yesterday:

Your website is in the Top 2% of all Hair Color/Beauty  eCommerce  -  Stores to Receive Traffic in Your Field  that began 10 Years ago.

You don't hear much about success by women in the tech world, for creating and building websites EXCEPT for the women who are what I call, "drop-dead" and become popular because they are beautiful. Its something they call the Kardashian syndrome. You know the girls who have a gazillion followers, for the sole reason they were born beautiful.  I want all of you to learn that if you are an expert in anything..........doesn't matter 'what'........there is a thirst for education now-a-days. 
So, follow my lead and begin writing a Blog and just know that all of us out here would want to learn just about any subject.....and that You - - -TOO - - -  could start an eCommerce business, which could very well be a success as well.

Be sure to instill in your daughters the importance of a woman's "mind" and 'becomingsmart' is just as beautiful as having good looks as a matter of fact its much better. Its sad that so many of these points we don't realize until we are older.

'STRONG'
IS 
THE 
NEW 
BEAUTIFUL 
a book by the athlete Lindsay Vonn 
( whom I very much admire ... I USE TO SKI RACE as well)

I was writing this when VONN came on the TV so decided to ADD her title to my POST I was already writing to you to thank YOU for all the support over the past 10 years.

I really am so very fortunate to hear so many kind words from so very many people. You call.....You write....You  email....you text......
I wanted to take the time to tell you how much I appreciate all of the prayers Ihave been the recipient of for my health.

It really does blow me away. 

Here are just a small example of some of the most recent Reviews and Rewards I receive from many of you.....and I want you to know that if it weren't for all of you and your support I WOULD NOT HAVE BEEN ABLE TO LAST THIS LONG. 

I truly wouldn't have made it until now if it weren't for all of you and these type of emails, phone calls and reviews.  . . .  each and everyone of them makes me fight a little harder.

THANK YOU ONE AND ALL 

	J		Jennifer B.Verified Buyer	10/12/16
			Blame it on rio LOVE this color

Ellen J.

Fun, fun, fun!  10/01/16

My naturally white hair and I have been having a blast with Boost and Burst in Breaking Bad Blue, Maserati, and U.S. Navy. It is a gorgeous lt. denim blue, subtle yet still blue, and I receive compliments literally every time I go out. At the age of 65, it truly makes my day.

In addition, I'm very pleased with the Boost and Burst as a shampoo and conditioner. My baby fine hair is clean and shiny, and the Burst NEVER weighs it down. I'm left with both amazing body AND color - perfect!!!

I bet if given the right materials K.C. could event create one hell of a man in her lab, ha ha!

On: " BOOST + BURST " - Toner, Pastel Shampoo/Conditioners Hair Color | Email: gotoXXX@gmail.com | Order ID: #19951 

Patti P.

#2) 150 Watt Kit - 2oz. Gleam & 8oz. Thriven  09/29/16

These are the absolutely BEST conditioners on earth!! 

On: #1 Damaged Hair Repair Products + Kits by Killerstrands | Email: purXXXX@gmail.com | Order ID: #20122

Damaged hair  09/29/16

This stuff is amazing!! 

On: #1 Damaged Hair Repair Products + Kits by Killerstrands 
 | Email: litxxxx@gmail.com | Order ID: #20120 

 Just wonderful!  10/01/16

I have several colors of Boost and Burst, pinks, purples, mauve etc... I lighten my hair to level 10+ blonde with KC's oil-bleach kits, which are the best! Then I tone with toner with a 6 developer. Then I have fun with my Boost-Burst. I apply on the ends or all over depending on mood. Whatever color I use with Burst is conditions, looks great and lasts until I use a cheap shampoo to wash it away. To really get it to set, I apply the Conditioner color to dry hair, let it sit for 20min (I check every 5min for color) then I rinse, adding the shampoo color to set it. I also use the shampoo in violet pilot or pink whip cream to keep my blonde a fab tone. Very good color, lasts till you want it out then a few washes with Suave and poof its gone, very conditioning and most of all FUN! KC, I have been searching everywhere to find high quality prices without having to go to a salon which usually runs me 350-500$ plus for blonding, which usually results in burnt scalp, damage and durp. With your quality products including Gleam, Thriven, Intensive and informational blog, my hair has never looked better. I appreciate professional stylists, but I just can't afford them or want to fix what happens to my hair when they don't have the right products. Thank goodness I found KillerStrands! XO Jennifer Walters

XO Back to you!

On: " BOOST + BURST " - Toner, Pastel Shampoo/Conditioners Hair Color | Email: autXXXX@yahoo.com | Order ID: #20155

Jennifer D.

Loving it!  10/01/16

There is nothing out there that keeps the gold/brass out of my blonde better than violet pilot! Seriously, it's amazing!

On: " BOOST + BURST " - Toner, Pastel Shampoo/Conditioners Hair Color | Email: valentXXX@ca.rr.com | Order ID: #19954 

David G.

Santa's Beard & hair  08/29/16

I need a bit more time as I have just used the product for the 1st time. I would like to briefly talk to KC and if she likes, to submit a couple of photos.
D. Griffiths

09/18/16

Great service, shipping and timeliness! 
Without KC I'd be paying $100s of dollars a month.

 Email: caxxxx@.com   Keri E.Verified Buyer

 

07/26/16

Lovely Products Again

I was so pleased with my products from January, that I felt I needed some more. Same great selection, luxurious products and awesome deals. Quickly and professionally shipped, too. Many thanks! 

Always carry the Malibu DDL and CPR packs  09/12/16

I knew I was getting close to my appointment with my regular colorist (I cheated on him, and no good), and I had been doing your Boost and Burst to cover up a chintzy silver color and equally chintzy correction, which by the way were life savers - At any rate, I brought the DDL packet, so that he could lift the remnants of the Boost and Burst, and it was like magic! Even he was impressed with the quality of the product, and how efficient and gentle it was in doing what it promised to do. My next mission is to convert him to your Boost and Burst series, as one of his alternatives to tone without developer. DDL is affordable, gentle and efficient at doing what it claims to do. I highly recommend it.

On: 'Malibu - Shampoos & Wellness packs' | Email: almaxxxgmail.com |

Used Burst Twice - Boost Once  10/04/16

The products arrived a couple of days ago. Ordered Burnt Sienna because I had auburn hair before it started going gray. Love Burst. Wish I had read the fact sheets for both. I would have only ordered a couple of different Bursts. I love the gradual color change. No one has noticed except me, and that is good. That is what I wanted. I will order a brighter shade of red Burst because I would like more red highlights. Very nice products. The Boost is a good shampoo, too.

On: " BOOST + BURST " - Toner, Pastel Shampoo/Conditioners Hair Color | Email: wcXXXX@yahoo.com

 Jacquelyne F.

 

Great products!  09/18/16

I couldn't find any Kenra products in any stores by me. I randomly came across your site and you had everything I was looking for! Received my order in timely fashion as well. Thank you and will purchase from you again!

On: " KENRA Hair Color : Metallics + Blondes + Demi + Permanent " | Email: jrXX@juno.com

 

Angel Rose is the perfect pink for me!  09/22/16

I used to mix 3-4 different hair colors to get something similar to Angel Rose, but throwing it on dry hair and letting it sit for a few hours is so much easier. And it smells better! The color sticks around longer than my traditional dyes, too (how does she do it??), so these products are worth every penny to me. Thank you, Killerstrands! 

On: " BOOST + BURST " - Toner, Pastel Shampoo/Conditioners Hair Color | Email: crystXXXXmartin@gmail.com | 

Order ID: #20058

And these are just a small portion of all the wonderful responses I receive........


STRONG  is  the  NEW  BEAUTIFUL

                                     

Little Xtra Help From K.C.in October, Analyzing Orders You Place or Question You Ask !

October 14, 2016, 2:00 am

≫ Next: 10,000 HEADS - 13 Step Hair Loss Regimen for Women

≪ Previous: 'STRONG' IS the NEW BEAUTIFUL for Women....... Live By This Code. I have Become STRONG internally, Due to Feed Back From You

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Its funny the first 2 years of Killerstrands decade long life I would have a difficult time helping many of you because I was soooooooooooo used to touching and feeling the hair.

Ask any Colorist................... so very very much .... can be read just by the feel (and look) of the hair strands .

So, what happens to me..........out-of-the-Blue, I get super ill.......... have to quit a career that I was soaring to the sky on.............and BOOM.......the whole thing is over. The cancer I have is rare - they know almost nothing about it  { if you ever get sick you want to get the illnesses that are common and not rare, like breast cancer would have been a good one. So much research is thrown at that, they have many hundreds of treatments, and thousands of doctors researching it.}  
I know it sounds weird, but.....Damn, I wish I had that one I would have more options. My doctors are amazed that I have made it this long and I tell them I attribute it to all of you.

It took about a year I think.......... instead of laying around and feel sorry for myself I decided that I needed to "GIVE-back" and by helping you learn about how to achieve both healthy strands and beautiful color ON YOUR OWN / in the COMFORT OF YOUR OWN HOME, it gave me something great to live on for ! I know its ONLY HAIR, and not curing cancer, but many of you out there are so extremely passionate about your hair.....doing hair....and/or learning about hair - that in and of itself

MAKES.................IT...................IMPORTANT !

I began doing Consultations ONLINE of all places. If you would have told me that I would be doing this 15 years ago, I would have told you it was virtually impossible. {notice the word 'virtually' !!!}.

HOW CAN YOU POSSIBLY HELP SOMEONE IF YOU CANNOT SEE OR FEEL .......THE HAIR STRANDS ? ? 








As with everything it takes PRACTICE

Lots and lots of practice 
and
today
I find myself doing these, finally, without ever remembering the luxury of being able to touch /feel/see the actual hair itself.

So.......my point today is.......... what I will do for everyone this month is:

•  look over your order 
• tell you personally if I feel you need to Change /Add or Delete anything - 
• if you would rather ask me a question I will answer that on the invoice, please don't ask for anything crazy, I will do my best.

Many of you toss out the Invoice, so please check for any words of wisdom I will try to inspire you with this month !

KC 

---

10,000 HEADS - 13 Step Hair Loss Regimen for Women

October 16, 2016, 6:30 pm

≫ Next: 10,000HEADS:Healthy Hair Protocol Step- 5: Good Nutrition & Step 7: Stop Smoking

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The beginning. . . .

About 15 years ago, I made a turn off the path I was on working in a extremely busy Salon, with an overloaded book of clients, there was just not enough of 'me' to go around. The turn initially was not taken voluntarily ... I came down with a rare cancer pushing me into a year worth of treatments, I wouldn't wish on anyone. In the course of that year, I too lost 1/2 of my hair. Which was a 'sign' to me that I was supposed to be working on hair loss, I became driven to solving the subject of women's hair loss. ("womens hair loss" is entirely different, than men's).

There is plenty of research and clinical trials concentrating on the male world of hair loss, very little was being done to help women. I knew from my own clientele the problem was bad and getting worse. That is when I began my journey into Cosmetic Chemistry and Trichology. I spent the next 2 years in classes, studying and apprenticing under one of the top cosmetic chemists in the country. That was the start of my goal in solving the problem of temporary hair loss (androgenetic alopecia) in women. I wanted to understand what every single facet was, what its chemical make-up is and how it works on the body. The idea of chemistry frightened me in high school but when I realized that cosmetic chemistry was simply organic chemistry ... I was disappointed in myself for not taking it, a way back when.

 

10,000HEADS HAIR LOSS SYSTEM - got is name from the well over 10,000 heads of hair I colored in my 'cut-too-short' career. It began with 20 steps. Over time I added, refined, subtracted, altered and finally... perfected... the individual steps. With the final critical discovery: the protocol works its best {with the highest success rate} when it is worked together . In other words; each step depends on the other for the most startling results. In order for all to work to their potential, choose 2 that go together, or 2 opposing Steps. Skipping steps is not allowed by anyone committing to the protocol, for the first 90 days. It depends where your results are at, that 90 day test period, as to what you can let up on and what you can't, so it is not a lifetime of commitments. There is an end!

Fully aware that everyone wants a 'quick-fix' pill to solve this problem, I'm here to tell you...that simply does not exist in todays world. Most of the hair loss kits and pills and lotions and potions that you see are out there PLAIN and simply: DO NOT WORK. If they did, they would be approved by the FDA ( Federal Drug Administration) and the news would be all over the papers, news and TV. The one new method that DOES work are the new lasers that are very expensive but they are approved by the FDA and I feel that is about the one method that will work on a certain percentage of you.... Yes, I do think they are worth trying if you are having heavy hair loss.

 I have never used one nor known anyone to use one, so honestly I cannot review it at this time. I never trust the reports given by the company and they say it can be used on both men and women which makes ZERO sense to me, the way hair is lost and the way it regrows is completely different on men than on women. 
  We don't lose hair the same pattern as men............we lose it ALL OVER, so the hair denseness goes down. Our ponytail goes from being 2 inches thick to 1 inch thick ! 
Its pretty expensive and if you choose this route I would not purchase anything under $500. and would first get a dermatologists advice or his (sales) pitch anyway.Because remember that Dermatologists are representatives for those products.

I promise you, solving hairloss and obesity are 2 of the top researched areas in every Lab of both the pharmaceutical & cosmetic industries. Solving hair loss is more important than solving cancer. Many cancer patients die, ending the need for their product, if they could get America a drug,cream or pill that solved hair loss they potentially would be a client for 50 years. Those industries are big business and any good business looks at the "bottom line" and profits. 

I have absolutely no intention of badmouthing companies for their efforts to solve the female hairLOSS (hair loss, hair thinning, hair fall & hair damage) that is not my goal here. The more people that work on it, the higher percentage rate we have in solving the problem. My concern is with the false advertising, its just not fair to the consumer . . they simply have not cured anything. I have heard the same from hundreds of clients, but more importantly I have tested all the weird products myself, in my own personal quest to improve my hair. Hey, I am no different than anyone I want the quick fix pill as well.

There are hundreds of companies that exist on a one time sale of a product to a consumer..in other words - no repeat business. I experienced this at a Salon I worked in. The owners daughter was the single worst hair stylist I had ever seen touch a head of hair. She would burn hair, send clients out crying, colour hair gold when it was supposed to be red.
It just blew me away.
Yet, she had been working there for 3 years prior to me coming and still works there today.
Why?
Why, is what I asked over and over and over.
It took a full year to figure out.
She did only "one-time clients" they never came back for repeat business. The following appointment was either with someone else or they never stepped in the Salon again, they ran for the hills!
Same theory for hair loss products on the market. These companies survive on the millions of 'one time buyers'out there. 

The 10,000HEADS Protocol was developed when everything else failed.

 Its not easy, it takes commitment BUT > it has approx. a 80% success rate (on androgeneticalopecia or temporary hair loss). That is a fairly high number, to most.

KC

10,000HEADS:Healthy Hair Protocol Step- 5: Good Nutrition & Step 7: Stop Smoking

October 19, 2016, 7:00 am

≫ Next: What happens When Hair Is Bleached ? ?

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Nutrition - Step 5 - Good Nutrition

 single best food for the body & hair? broccoli!

 

The food you eat and what goes in your body is simply the most important factor in changing the health and thickness of your hair.

It is important to understand 10,000 HEADS works its wonders synergistically, practicing all the steps in unison, will give you optimum results, we have had some absolutely amazing stories come back to us. We cannot stress it enough; Nutrition & step1 will always be the most important step and is the backbone of the program.

This is also the single most difficult step to get women to follow through on. When changing food intake, it can take weeks or months for results to be apparent, many give up feeling as though the change didn’t help. Hang in there, the change will come I have seen it over and over. As scientists, we surveyed over 10,000 heads of hair, paying attention to patterns and forming hypothesis on ‘why’ a particular person had a good head of hair and how it got to be that way, we came up with 3 common denominators of every person with enviable hair: excellent nutrition/eating habits no smoking, no drinking/drugs no weight issues This step does not restrict you from any foods; on the contrary, we ask that you follow a well balanced sensible diet that will contribute to the growth and health of the hair. Of course we do not encourage eating a lot of sugary, gooey, junk either. Be sensible. Try remembering this, “what goes in your mouth, shows up on your head” a terrific rule of thumb. Forensics can use a one strand hair analysis to disclose just about everything on a person and it is extremely accurate - your hair is a reflection of your health – period.

All foods you eat eventually are converted to simple compounds the body is able to utilize, glucose being the one that supplies the energy for all cellular reproduction – including the cells in the hair follicles (remember, follicle cell reproduction is one of the quickest in the body). So keeping the body nourished is imperative for healthy hair and for hair re-growth.

                                                                                                 photo by: elephant journal.com

The number 1 mistake that just about every person with hair problems makes is; lack of protein. Hair is made up protein and thrives on protein, listening to women over the years recite their diet choices, leaves me stunned with the same conclusion, their diets are what started their problems. Vegetarians have a very hard time having luxurious hair, they must put protein back in their daily diet, making sure to have it at breakfast, which is the most important meal of the day for your hair; do not skip it. Lunch is next in importance, again making sure that you include as much protein as you possibly can, strive for 50 grams of protein a day minimum. We have found a terrific protein supplement online, it is the Lindora Clinic’s Protein bar, the taste earns the “delicious’ award, if you can believe that – and you can get a whopping 15 grams of protein out of some of the flavors Lindora medical clinic . The energy to your hair follicles gets depleted when you have gone for more than 4 hours without eating or snacking, the ideal snacks for your hair health are fresh fruit, raw vegetables, nuts, there is nothing better (or more convenient) than a handful of almonds for the shine in your hair.

Colorful fruits and vegetables added to the daily diet are a necessity as well. The best way to summarize it is to say; reach for the most colourful veges, picking some in each colour category. No one eats sufficiently in this category and the only reason I can pinpoint is; they take too long to prepare. Which is a weak answer, in my book. But, it is what it is. The solution? Hit the Farmers market every week, it takes an hour-go immediately home: wash and prepare all the veges for the week. Carrot sticks, Celery & p-nut butter, sliced cucumbers, lettuce for salads. Most everyone now-a-days is in a rush...this facilitates grabbing something good for your hair when there is no time.

Step 3 Stop Smoking

If you smoke - QUIT- if for no other reason than you are killing your hair. . . that sounds harsh, but in essence – you are. Smoking robs your body of oxygen which in turn robs your hair of oxygen filled blood. . .whose job it is to nourish the hair follicle. Check out the photo at the top, it shows you a "slice" of the human skin and how a hair and hair follicle gets its nourishment.See the red blood vessels and how they go to the base of the one hair follicle, that is the bulb inside, where the cell regeneration happens and the new hair grows. You don’t need to be a chemist to see the blood feeds the follicle <> therefore what is IN the blood effects the hair. Likewise, for alcohol and drugs, if you drink too much – cut back or quit if it is a problem in your life – social drinking is fine. 

If you smoke too much dope, just remember why they call it dope, Pot is bad for hair, skin and nails, the sooner you quit... the higher the likelihood you will have of the good qualities returning. When you get older ( 50’s-60’s) you start to notice the people that took care of their hair and skin look about 10-15 years younger. It is very apparent what works and what doesn't now. 

Be smart, quit now, while you’re ahead! If you crash diet or have any of the disruptive habits of an eating disorder, your hair unfortunately, will be the first casualty. I spent 4 years volunteering at an Anorexia/ Bulimia live-in center, when the girls had a good week, they were allowed to get their hair coloured. The hair on some of those girls was irreparable; they had robbed their bodies of nutrients for so long that many of them could not recover the health of their hair, once cured . . .it was terribly sad to watch as many were very young. The cure came too late and no one had told them anorexia/bulimia was hell on hair. We feel that one fact alone would help prevent some of this disease . . . girls love their hair and hate to lose it.Starving yourself, eliminating protein and certain food groups is not the way to a healthy head of hair. Plug protein into your diet, starting immediately if your hair is thinning or alopecia is your diagnosis. The change will not be apparent for a while but we assure you… it will come.

What happens When Hair Is Bleached ? ?

October 19, 2016, 9:30 pm

≫ Next: Color Wheel/Hair Color Theory : Importance in Formulating Your Own Color

≪ Previous: 10,000HEADS:Healthy Hair Protocol Step- 5: Good Nutrition & Step 7: Stop Smoking

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CHEMISTRY AND THE EFFECTS OF BLEACHING THE HAIR
Lets review what happens when bleaching the hair.

Everyone talks about it, but no one really understands what happens both chemically and aesthetically 
Bleach must go through the OXIDATION process in order for the hair strands on top of the head to have the color be removed from them.
By REMOVING the hair color that is in the hair strands it removes the "virgin color" and leaves a color that has become what we all know as the word "BLONDE".
That is why many times, I try to say that the color Blonde...is really not a color that we deposit onto the strands of hair..........we do NOT put BLONDE......."IN"......... in the strands, 
what happens chemically and aesthetically is :
Blonde is what is remaining............
once we remove the virgin hair color you were born with.

Oxidation in the de-colorizing process means the hydrogen peroxide is mixed with an alkaline product such as bleach. 
Once activated, the de-colorizing mixture changes melanosome structure and lightens the color of the hair. It does this by breaking the melanin into tiny fragments which are no longer able to absorb light to the same degree as before. The melanin does not immediately lose its color when oxidized. The hair goes through relatively predictable color changes as the pigment disperses and lightens the hair to a new level.
( these stages are Brown-----brown/Red-----Red-----Red/Orange------orange----orange-------yellow-----Gold----Yellow------Brass------Pale Yellow)
  The following table lists each level of hair color with its corresponding undertone, as well as shades that are achievable at each level.

Chemistry and Effect of Bleaching the Hair
 
Undertone
Level  Achievable Shades

Pale Yellow 
10 
platinum blonde silver ash blonde ultra pale pastel blonde

Yellow
 9
strawberry blonde beige blonde tan blonde taupe blonde

Yellow/Orange
8 
honey blonde light copper blonde dark strawberry blonde dark beige blonde

Orange/YellowOrange
7/6
copper redfire red dark blonde

Red/OrangeRed
5 /4
mahogany burgundy

There are no established times for de-colorizing the hair to any given level. 
 Processing time always varies, depending on:

• strength of the decolorizing mixture, 
• use of heat
• texture
• condition
• porosity
• type and 
• density of natural pigmentation. 

The best way to determine processing time is to perform a strand test and to follow manufacturer's directions.
TYPES OF DE-COLORIZER

There are three general classifications of de-colorizers used in the salon: oil, creme, and powder. Each performs a specific function, and has unique characteristics.

OIL DE-COLORIZER

These are frequently used for on-scalp applications when a mild lightening action is desired. Oil de-colorizers are part of a 3-component system including powder activator(s) and hydrogen peroxide developer. Oil de-colorizers have a pH of approximately 10.

CREME DE-COLORIZER
De-colorizers also include developers and may also include powder activator(s). They are formulated to stay moist during processing in a no-drip consistency. They are popular for their versatile application techniques and are used in both on and off-scalp methods.

POWDER DE-COLORIZER
 Powder de-colorizer are often selected when lighter blonde results are desired on darker natural hair colors. Most powder de-colorizer are for off-scalp techniques, although some do provide the flexibility for on-scalp applications. The pH of powder de-colorizer is approximately 10.5.

There are two basic classifications:
1. On-scalp: Used on-scalp for double processing and off-scalp in highlighting and creative color techniques.
2. Off-scalp: This type of bleach is usually stronger and faster-acting than on-scalp bleaches due to the higher pH and stronger peroxide activity. 

Off-scalp is considered highlights, Balayage, etc.. type, techniques.

Please check-out our Violet/Blue based Oil-Bleach Kit in the store..... it is a one-of a kind. There is NO Violet/blue tinted Oil Bleach in the world, ONLY at Killerstrands and I developed this to fight the brass I hear so many of you complain about and I am prideful that it is my single most unique and effective product out of the 10 products I have developed.

Soon we will have a 'Salon Version' of the Oil Bleach Kit it should be ready for photos and on the website in about 1-2 weeks so pay attention !

Color Wheel/Hair Color Theory : Importance in Formulating Your Own Color

October 23, 2016, 6:00 pm

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Color Wheel

Remember these from school?

WE have one in the store ........-->
designed just for learning how it relates to hair color and as much as you may not want to have anything to do with it, it is the SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT THEORY you must learn to understand how to color hair correctly. Daily I hear from colorists around the country and their questions indicate to me that they do not quite grasp the way that COLOR THEORY relates to HAIR COLOR (an absolute MUST!).

In order to color your hair with ZERO BLorange, Gold, Brass, Red or Green ( top 5 most annoying "TONES" ) That is the wonder of mastering Color Theory - you will see.
Everyone must have broken out the Crayon box and colored a color at some point in life. You may not remember, but it is a part of education in most countries, the reason ?
Every person see’s colors differently

Primary colors: Red, Yellow, blue
Secondary Colours: Green, Purple,Orange
Tertiary Colors: Red-Purple, Orange-Red,Yellow-Orange, Yellow-Green, Blue-Green, Blue-Purple.
Have you ever seen thecolor-tinted shampoos and conditioners we sell here at Killerstrands?
BOOST & BURST ? ? 
Every single one of them is based on Color Theory. Many of them conquer the "tonal issues" so many of you have.
For example Hispanic hair (when lightened even a tiny bit) has the strongest tendency to pull Blorange or Orange-y.....so knowing that the annoying color is basically ORANGE .....look above at the COLOR Wheel photo draw a line from the Orange tone.......STRAIGHT ACROSS the chart and your finger ends up on 'what' color?.....
BLUE.
So, therefore, I took a chocolate based brown and I gave it a BLUE base.....so it is a Blue based chocolate BROWN......we call it Cafe Azul which means Blue Coffee..........and it work brilliantly on any brunette hair that has some Bl'orange or gold tones that drive you crazy.

 For years they have had a product that grey hair older ladies use called “Shimmering Lights” it is a purple colored conditioner and shampoo , which takes the “yellow” out of grey, grey hair is actually hair with NO pigment in the strand and with all the lousy water, the yellowing is merely the water tingeing the grey/colorless hair, yellow. Why do you think they call the elder generation. . . . “blue hairs”? 
It's from overdoing“Shimmering Lights”!!

Permanent colors : are not the color in the bowl they end up to be.
Semi Permanent Hair Color ( no developer): This color will look like the color it ends up being on your hair.

ONE OF THE MORE BRILLIANT TRICKS FOR BLONDES Is using both Sandy Beach Beige or Rose Angel Rose in BURST & BOOST colored shampoo & conditioners, to enhance blondes in the newest way.

These are directions for using BURST and BOOST

Directions for use: Shampoo hair at beginning of shower, apply conditioner letting it sit on hair for remainder of shower ( 4-8 minutes)… rinse hair as normal. Check hair in mirror, If still yellow – repeat process > add another teaspoon of purple to mixture. Continue doing this until the colour is right for your hair. 

 If for some strange reason it is too bright… just Shampoo once. Its semi-permanent and comes out very easily ! Its both a matter of the right amount of color and right amount of time you have left it on the hair, as factors that effect outcome. The colored conditioners besides this will work a million times better as you have control over the amount of color so it can be tremendously more effective .

Chocolate Mauve : HOT Hair Color for Fall

October 26, 2016, 11:52 pm

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Brunettes have long been linked with brainpower. Dark , intense and mysterious.....gentlemen may prefer blondes but it looks like men would rather 'marry' brunettes -- or so the saying goes. I'm not sure how the old saying works, when 9 out of 10 women are are not virgin Blond ( it coming instead from a tube and brush!) !! 

While blondes supposedly have more fun, it is the brunettes who have an allure, they are "perceived" as more reliable and dependable...maybe helped in part by the coffee-colored locks of Athena -- the Goddess of Wisdom! In the 20's Coco Chanel portrayed a unique, chic, perfectly coiffed brunette hair and nails. Jump forward to the 50's and 'Gentlemen Marry Brunettes'star Jane Russell and"Cat on a Hot Tin Roof"vixen Elizabeth Taylor - both exuded an air-of-mystery.

Brunette has always represented class and sophistication....but also can be edgy and dark.There are so many brunettes in classic films who have become icons. Brunette hair really reflects the light, giving it a glossy healthy appearance. Think about Megan Fox, Jessica Alba, Michelle Obama, Kate Beckinsale, Mila Kunis, Eva Mendes. . .  all beautiful.
brunette beauties. All of them can both go from casual waves to full-on glam Goth as well as using their chocolate hair to highlight their best features.

I feel sometimes maybe brunette's are misunderstood and they give off an air of being timid, cautious, contemplative or maybe not as adventurous as maybe a redhead or blonde. But I have a couple suggestions for you. The problem with many different techniques on the darker locks, once you begin to lighten what-so-ever the hair - you go down that road of fighting the DURP you most likely have. { DURP being the Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment that pops through when you begin lifting color out of the hair strands - such as: red/orange/gold/brass ..}. What can brunette's do to spice things up color wise? Especially all you Crib Colorists out there ?!?!

The best thing for dark hair is for it to be shiny . . . how do we get dark hair shiny? :

• 100% healthy, that way it is easier for it to be healthy.....healthy = shiny. Shiny is good.
• Deep Treatment Conditioners - Use Thriven ( Killerstrands own DEEP CONDITIONER) - works miracles - truly miracles : sleep with it in hair !
• Hair Color - Professional ONLY. If you have never tried professional hair color, now is the time, it is made so well now, that using it {correctly} truly makes your hair shinier, thicker, & gives a super healthy appearance. 
• Using a Brunette toner with Color Touch by Wella - this is what we use to add shine when shooting commercials.
• Use a Shine Spray - we have our own : a nice light silicone which both protects hair from heat and imparts more Shine. If you are a Stylist give your client a shot of hair scent, as they go through their day that scent will remind them of you and what a unique Stylist you are !
• Go for the NEW COLOR THIS FALL ! ! ! ......We have added this new color to BOOST & BURST our color enhanced shampoos& conditioners...Chocolate MAUVE,
  what a name. . . . what a gorgeous color and we have added both a Shampoo & Conditioner in this color. If you have brunette hair already Just shampoo 'in'...........for 3-8 minutes.............rinse/ towel dry, apply conditioner ....process for 5-50 minutes ( depending on  intensity desired). If your hair is different colors the result will be striking as these products are translucent {letting your own hair color sparkle through ! ! }

 Brunettes are less maintenance than Blondes, yet having your roots grow out (if you have more than 10-20% gray), will be more noticeable than their blonde counterparts.

There is many beautiful brunettes taking a walk on the dark side. If you think blondes have more fun . . .think again ! !

SHAMPOO : the Movie...Shampoo: The Explanation! Make Sense Out of All the Bottles

October 31, 2016, 2:55 pm

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BACK TO BASICS AND WASH AWAY

BAD HAIR DAYS WITH KILLERSTRANDS

SHAMPOO TIPS

Its funny, picking out a shampoo seems like a fairly simple task. . . in truth, it can be mind boggling. There are thousands of brands and thousands of options.I would like the subject of shampoo to make as much sense to you as it does to me.

Finding your perfect shampoo is no easy task. With such a huge range offered to the consumer from drug store brands to professional, from anti-dandruff to extra volume, we are literally soaked with choices.

Do you walk down the aisles at your Beauty Supply or the local Target and feel overwhelmed?

You're not alone. And the bad news is, over 80% of you are rumored to be using the wrong shampoo for your hair type!

My goal?

to de-mystify shampoo and the manner in which you choose your shampoo.

How can you find your shampoo soul mate?

The fastest, most accurate solution?

When making an appointment with a qualified Stylist or Colourist at your local Salon for a cut or colour ask for a shampoo recommendation. If that is not an option for you, the following will be helpful.

As a Cosmetic Chemist, when an order for a new shampoo formula comes across my desk, the very first requirement for end result? the "HAIR type" needs to be answered.... is the hair colored or virgin?

The first question would be: do you color your hair? or is it virgin hair?

Shampoo's are formulated for colour-treated hair or non color treated or 'virgin' hair.

Secondly the Shampoo is formulated and designed for a specific "condition" of hair: dry/normal/oily/damaged/frizzy.

The second question you answer about your hair in picking a shampoo: What condition is my hair?

~THE CONDITION OF YOUR HAIR

This is one of the main factors to consider. If your hair is dry you don't need a shampoo that will strip your hair of oil, likewise if your hair is greasy...you shouldn't be using a moisture shampoo. Your ideal shampoo will help restore your hair to a manageable condition, so figure out what your hair needs most, whether this is colour maintenance, moisture or strength etc.

~ WHAT LOOK ARE YOU AFTER?

Many people will use a curl-friendly shampoo if their hair is curly, but if you're styling your hair straight this is a definite no-no. A curl activator will do nothing to create the poker straight hair you're aiming for, but a smoothing shampoo will put you right on track. Remember, shampoo won't work miracles - its job is to cleanse the hair and create a good foundation, its your products that do the styling.

~ HOW OFTEN DO YOU WASH ?

Think about your wash frequency. Avoid using anything too harsh or that's likely to strip away natural oils if you're going to be washing your hair daily. No one needs to shampoo that frequently you truly don't need it. Its wasteful, not necessary and I highly suggest you begin changing your schedule.

~ Use SULFATE-FREE SHAMPOO ONLY

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate ( SLS)> must be avoided .

Watch out for this ingredient in your shampoos..

This chemical is one of the causes of the new hair loss cases in women. I will continue to speak out on it, because it needs to be abolished in our products.

SHAMPOO MYTHS Blown open

~ SHOULD I CHANGE MY SHAMPOO EVERY FEW MONTHS?

Why? There is no truth to the rumor that hair becomes immune to hair products...different products have different ingredients, if the dreaded Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) is in one and not in another...then of course the 2 shampoos are going to have different reactions.That's all it is....No immunity factor...

~DOES A RICH LATHER MEAN MY HAIR IS GETTING A BETTER WASH?

Enough bubbles for a foam party does not make a good hair wash! A rich lather doesn't always mean hair is cleaner as it is controlled chemically. Moisturising shampoos will not develop into a huge lather like the one for greasy hair due to their make-up.

Are professional products much better than drug store lower priced models? 

Its all about reading labels - just like you do with your foord....Its so funny about 15-20 years ago NO ONE read labels of their food, now I see every single person in our local grocery stores standing trying to read the microfine print on labels of food. Remember when you weren't familiar with those technical terms ? ? ?  Like gluten, etc.... Once you have realized which ingredients there are that you must avoid ( later in the site I will make a business card print out to put in your wallet with the names of the chemicals that are to be avoided at all costs.). Once you have that list you may shop wherever your pocketbook leads you.

Its not the price of the products... its the ingredients that makes the differences you should watch out for.

Doing a quick Sulfate-free shampoo search. . . . there are starting to be a number of $5.00/$6.00/$7.00 shampoos without the dreaded SLS ingredient.. a couple phone calls revealed a couple major shampoo manufacturers...... the number 1 HOT ITEM in shampoos that has been hot for the last 10 years is Hair Color-Friendly and SULFATE-FREE !

The shampoos in our store all meet my high standards of how Shampoos should be formulated, I have tested and tried and devoted many hours of time into the selection of  shampoos I carry, so never worry about which is better than the other.

Haircuts Can HURT -- Hair Thieves on Cutting Edge

November 1, 2016, 3:00 am

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Just had to reprint this story. . . found the perfect hair style for the ladies of Burma > > > >

Next time you think about purchasing Extensions. . .

this may be where they are coming from . . . .By The Associated Press

YANGON, Myanmar — Women in Myanmar not only have to watch out for pickpockets but also hair thieves, a weekly journal reported Sunday.
Long-haired women in crowded areas have fallen victim to surreptitious hair snippers who steal their hair to sell, the Burmese-language 24/7 news journal reported.
"My long hair was cut while I was on my way back from the office. I found out only when I got back home," an unidentified female bus commuter was quoted as saying.
Another woman's hair was cut while she was shopping at a roadside store, the journal said.
Many women in Myanmar — also know as Burma — have waist- or knee-length hair, which they wear in a ponytail, making it easy for thieves to snip off the hair and sell it as extensions.

The report said the price of hair has increased as demand for hair as an export or raw material rises. A viss (3.5 pounds) of hair is worth 400,000 kyats ($420) to 500,000 kyats ($500), it said.

---

Flatten That Fricken Frizzy Hair - #1

November 2, 2016, 4:00 am

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The Smoothest Route to De-Frazzling The Nest

Rid Your Noggin of Frizzy/Curly Hair

THROW IN THE TOWEL

After your shampoo & shower be careful not to towel dry the hair. Especially not a rough wild scrub with the towel I see so many do, you are roughing up the cuticle. Gently blot the water out if need be, leaving it alone is the single best choice and shaking your head back and forth side to side in the shower just before exiting is an old Hollywood trick. (The deep shaking also helps with root lift - promise).

An important part of the trick to getting rid of frizzy hair is understanding the "cuticle" of the hair strand. The cuticle has scales which lie along the surface of the hair like tiles on a roof with their free edges directed towards the tip. They cover the hair surface all the way along its length.

 
 Hair strand magnified - Cuticle visible
If you could look at a hair under a powerful microscope you would see that the scales growing over the youngest part of the hair (the part that grows closest to the scalp) are smooth and unbroken. 
Further along the hair, you would be able to see that they may have been damaged by cosmetic treatments ( flat irons, over processing, etc).


When the hair's cuticles are smoothed down and going in the same direction the appearance will be shiny and smooth, therefore lessening/eliminating frizz.

Remember this theory for other things you do to your hair such as : putting clothes on over the head, wearing hats, swim caps, brushing hair upside down(that's a 'no'). The roughing up that the towel drying creates sets the entire styling process up to fail for you, its a very easy step, put a post-it on the bathroom mirror right now if you must.

Included will be 10 of my Tricks + 5 product recommendations. What you have that sets you apart from each other ..........are your tricks and product finds that you try to keep secret. That is why people seek you out, along with the obvious : artistic flare & knowledge of hair.

Bull Semen hits Salon Treatments to Tune of $170. a POP!

November 3, 2016, 4:00 am

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After a little more thought....it occurred to me . . . who was that person that was sitting around and said, .........
"Hey, if we jerk a bull off, maybe it will help the health of hair", then I looked up who this "Hari Salem" cat was and sure enough...it was a dude! No offense - just funny and logical, I always wonder 'where' things come from it is a habit ingrained in me.

Being a woman, being a cosmetic chemist and a woman, my speciality is HAIR CONDITIONERS, that is where all my research was -- is -- and will be in the future. In the 4 years I have been formulating hair conditioners, I study every new ingredient that comes out that can be added to the formula's each and every month & trust me there are way too many. So to come up with Bull Semen is hilarious to me, I thought > 'hey, I never saw that listed in the Cosmetics & Technology Magazine ("New Hair Formula ingredients" ) I read cover to cover every month' - what on earth would possess someone to reach for that jar on the shelf when formulating a hair conditioner?! Of course, a horny guy !

Many people do not understand this... but a Cosmetic Chemist is the one that designs every hair care and every Cosmetic product you have ever touched...not a Dermatologist....not a Celebrity.....and not even a big shot Hair Stylist.

I guess I have offended some of you - which I greatly apologize for....sincerely.
Truly - madly - deeply I hope you will accept, this is why I am not supposed to work, I do not have the temperament to help others....I knew I was short with people but did not know it affected all of you so much........I will try hard to not speak up much anymore and to really watch what I say.
 
NONE OF THE ABOVE creates that product that eventually goes on your body and/or hair, plus they would have absolutely NO idea how to begin, what to use, or where to start, ....none - zip- zero.
A Cosmetic Chemist does it for them.
Be very very glad they do, to be one you need to learn light years more than what you pick up in acting or Cosmetology schools...and the Dermatologists have a whole profession to cover their butt so they don't have to know what goes "in" products ( they are called a Pharmacist) - so medical doctors are not what you want to look for as afar as their expertise in skin or hair products - I promise you I know more than that damn Dr. Perricone. He uses something that is so wrong in his face lotions/creams and I know its only because he has no idea what each ingredient is...otherwise he would not have 2 of the ingredients he has in them. 


Until I took 2 years out of my life and studied Cosmetic chemistry , I had absolutely NO IDEA the art even existed and believe me... it is an Art ! Not only a beautiful art but also a scientific one, something completely new to me at the time.
Not only do we chose the ingredients to put in the product ( which sounds all fun and games) but more importantly we are making sure the product is sufficiently preserved as well as adequately balanced so the pH level is perfect and protecting the effectiveness of the "active" ingredients - - all of this under the umbrella of 'formulating personal care products". When i started and listened to the words everyone was using...I was positive I would never be able to understand what they were all talking about...the terms- the technology- it all sounded like Japanese to me, this was all way over my head back in School and I would never be able to learn it now.

I pushed on though... I started to read a lot about the chemistry of hair products, and that became my passion... making one hair conditioner after another, those and body cremes, {they are similar products in their make-up and chemistry}....I began making custom hair conditioners & cremes for my regular clients.

I knew their hair so well I would make a batch of hair conditioner up for a year at a time, yes it was a bit pricey - but they all claim it was worth every last penny! I never lacked for people to make them for, it was all I could do - to formulate and cut & color hair.
Ever had a homemade Cake or Pie...from scratch....?
How yummy and flavorful they are compared to the Markets

I just do not agree that everyone needs a daily 'conditioner, shampoos have so much in them anymore they are sufficient..
a problem we see in the Salon a lot is "build-up"

• product build-up
• mineral build-up (chlorine,rust etc. from water)
• conditioner build-up

To elminate that problem I feel the hair care protocol for the average client is this:
Shampoo: Sulfate-free..... and then ONLY IF your hair is dry and tangly -
Detangler: a spray detangler for easy comb thru
Conditioner : Once a week an overnight conditioner - shampoo-rinse - apply deep conditioner - comb thru (mine is called:Thriven) let it dry for 1 hour prior to going to bed - lay towel on pillow to protect. Sleep 8 hours letting yummy ingredients soak in hair and scalp.. Rinse in morning. Depending on condition of hair this can be done once/twice a week....or once - twice a month....even.
"More" is not always better !
 

Silicone Sucks In Implants : Shines Bright on Frizz Hair Problem

November 4, 2016, 3:00 am

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FLATTEN THAT FRICKEN

 FRIZZY HAIR

- Part 2 in 5 Part Series
One of the life altering moments in the world of ethnic and frizzy hair care came when “SILICONE’S were introduced to styling products and conditioners. Who could've predicted this one... a substance despised by so many women with lousy breast implants, would end up coming to the rescue of one of women’s biggest complaints. . . only in America! 

The 2 silicones used in the majority of “frizz-free” hair products are Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone. I will continue to remind you to note various ingredient names for the best care of your hair, it is important to become familiar with names and actions yourself.

Cyclomethicone is the lighter of the two silicones and you will find it most often in thermal sprays, thermal (heat protection) coatings, gloss serums, gloss & shine sprays. The consistency is that of a (clear) maple syrup, with absolutely no stickiness or tackiness to it. Slippery is a good one word description for it.

Silicone is described in the dictionary as : any of a number of polymers
containing alternate silicon and oxygen atoms, whose properties are determined
by the organic groups attached to the silicon atoms, and that are fluid,
resinous, rubbery, extremely stable in high temperatures, and
water-repellent.

Dimethicone, #2 is heavier feeling, weighs more, and is normally the one used in hair conditioners and is combined with sister “Cyclo”-methicone, in every companies never ending search for the proper ratio with each other. Its funny for years I tried to battle the problem with a number of other very similar ingredients we use in formulating ethnic hair care products, but always ended up coming back to the silicone's. Being the "natural"-freak that I was born and bred to be, using silicones just didn't seem the proper route ( I also have straight hair, BTW!) They really do work extremely well and they are not harmful in any way especially when you are using them topically. So I have quit trying to fight an unnecessary battle …smart, huh? !

Most curly hairs have what I refer to as “wiry” hair and what does wiry hair need? It needs “softness” and the trip from wiry to soft is where Mister and Mrs. Silicone get their big name from because they have solved the journey.
For the ultimate in Frizz fighting the silicones can be applied via a few different products that incorporate both into their formulas. That way they work more efficiently, than just pouring on a stream of straight silicone, unfortunately that just doesn’t work and is much to greasy and gooey!

There is one company that I have been using for over 15 years, that carries (almost) everything you will need. I am not a fan of their shampoos, but that is only because they have not come out with one that does not have SLS Sodium Lauryl Sulfate in it, I am sure they will soon.
They have updated their website and everything on it goes along with all of my hair philosophy so I would use that for your battle against the frizz ,as well. I will be contacting them to see if we can do some sort of podcast in conjunction for all KILLER STRANDS members. I’d like to be able to show you how to apply the products perfectly so you will have the good results they provide.

Which products you purchase all depends on the degree of frizz-iness you have, no one makes better products for frizzier hair than this company. The owner is a master chemist and you can tell by the quality of his products.

This line up is in the order I put them in importance, the first one on the list being the most useful ( again it depends on your level of frizziness)

Always....Always carry a small bottle of Silken seal drops in your purse, if you have the high level of frizz it sounds like most of you have....you will need to re-apply throughout the day.

We're Opening a Group Again (Facebook) - Need Help ? ? Please Sign Up

November 6, 2016, 6:43 pm

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  I hope to help people with your purchases and your formula's a bit, so I am opening our 3rd GROUP

I won't be able to help the amount of people I used to, but if you can be patient and be sure to answer the Killer 18 Questions (using 10 words or less for each answer), I will try to get to as many of you as I possibly can. I missing teaching you and from all of your questions it seems I need  to do this again. 

I will try my hardest

Here are the questions I need answered :
Please answering these questions using the LEVEL SYSTEM, (so the answers are in the Levels)
 Get some new photos of your hair so I can really get a good idea of color
 then join the FACEBOOK GROUP and post your question to me.
Texture ?
    Length of hair ?
    Ethnicity ?
    Is Hair VIRGIN?
    Hair Bleached ?
    Porosity ?
    Boxed Color?
    How many?
    Percentage of Gray?
    What Type of Color is on ...Box?
    Professional?  Straightener? Ever?
    D.U.R.P. - Dominant-Underlying-Remaining-Pigment ?
    Your opinion ...Resistant? or Not?
    Have You Used HENNA/NATURAL products that would still be on your strands??
    Virgin Color - Level & Tone ?
    Current Color - Level & Tone?
    Desired Color - Level & Tone ?

    For the best help... PLEASE send me 3-4 photos of hair profile/back/roots/long distance
    in "NATURAL Light ! " 

Here are photos of hair to show you what colors are what Levels ! ! !

  

and you should submit 2-3 photos if possible.

I receive so many questions every week, I feel there are points I have not taught as well as I hoped. So, lets give this a try. I am not very familiar with Facebook so give me a week or two to figure out how it all works....so I am using any tools it has properly, if you have any advice for me to run this group wisely, 

I am ............... A-L-L   E-A-R-S  ! ! !  

Here is the Link to the Group 


 it comes with its own email but I am not sure where I go to answer it  > > > > > any suggestions?

KC

Why Do I Have (very expensive) "Gray" Highlights?

November 8, 2016, 10:53 am

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Does this problem haunt you? Gray highlights? Why and how to fix it....It stems from a Stylist OVER HIGHLIGHTING your hair.....and a few other reasons.

Many 'new' to Killerstrand's write in with a question off my List of "Future Post Titles" therefore the age-old cliche: '2 birds--one stone' fit the bill.

Its an excellent question, & as I told her, for great general questions I am going to have to ask you all to post the question in the COMMENTS section or in the Killerstrands GROUP Forum. I have started to generate an extraordinary amount of email. In order to keep up with the quality of my advice I am going to need to answer more in the Comments section of any post or the Killerstrands GROUP.


How common are Gray highlights?
 Very. 
Even here in LA, I was just in the post office behind 2 women with the dreaded head. I wanted to hand them my card with the comment, please...let me fix your hair. In order to avoid decapitation, I decided against it.

Its nice to hear someone admit they have them so its not just Colorists that see them.

The problem stems from one or a combo of these 4 issues which are all interconnected:

• too-white highlights


• hair color Basic Rules not followed


• "over-busy" Stylist


• Using only 1 Color


• too many foils 
• greedy colorists ( highlights is the process that generates the most money, as it takes the longest to do and it makes us look like we are going to a lot of trouble so the hefty price-tag MUST BE WORTH it !    
• There are more striking techniques, 
• that if you have your clients best interest in mind you would consider them. If you weren't educated some where cool and brilliant like Sassoon, you can buy DVD's, Books & all sorts of training materials to learn. Never stop learning in anything you take on - especially hair..
• If you just cannot and won't take on Crib Coloring be diligent about finding a qualified Colorist. Call Sassoon in Santa Monica/Chicago/Florida Academies and ask for Students trained There in your area.

1.)Too-White Highlights: The number one reason for 'gray' appearing highlights is having too 'white'> highlights. How do they get too white ? The bleach is left on the hair too long, pushing the color of the hair past the lovely golden blonde stage and over to the bright white stage.                                

I will gamble that most of you that have this problem have a brown base. You've gone into the Salon and asked for the Jennifer Anniston color and come out with something more on the line of the Golden Girls, sound like you? If you place too many white highlights on top of a brown base...the overall appearance is "gray" . That is just how it looks, and I know it confuses the client. What colors make gray? Black and white. Brown is the closest color to black and close enough within the context of hair to give the effect of gray. Brown and super white highlights -appear 'gray'. Now if you have your base tinted brown first, you have an even higher chance of having that "gray effect".



What stage comes after the too white stage>? the 'breakage stage" which I am sure many have discovered that have this problem - so if you are here - stop the madness and get off the train. Put your foot down, ask for a change or you change Stylists. Please see the decolorization chart posted here. Which shows "how" color comes out of hair as it is lightened. If you understand the process it will make it easier for you to solve the problem.

The second reason they would be too white? Using the heat of a hair dryer. Especially when it says right on the package of every bleach I have ever seen, DO NOT USE HEAT. Heat speeds up the processing, which in turn speeds up the lifting action .. again zooming it right past the "golden blond" stage and up to that old "white" blond stage. Whiter is not better in highlights, nor is yellow the desired color either. Its those couple levels in between, and its not that hard to hit them. Just takes a little practice and using the proper rules and techniques.

2.)Hair Color basic rules that need to be followed - there is a reason Stylists are required to attend a specialized school for 1 year. Even if they did not learn it there > right on the package of almost all colors and bleaches it will say "DO NOT APPLY HEAT" . I was so shocked when I moved from the Academy to the Salon and saw this trick in action. I would say 90% of all hair color specifically saysnot to use heat. Most color that is professional says right on the package: DO NOT USE HEAT... in giant -- all capital letters, in many different places. Yet, in the Salon every single Stylist I watched in action was shuffling their clients in and out of hair dryer chairs, does this happen to you? .........JUST SAY NO, if you're timid say you are allergic to hair dryers... ! ! ! Just don't sit under them if they have used bleach, bleach works plenty fast ON ITS OWN.....!. Most Stylists are buying time until they have time to work you in....right ? 

I would worry greatly if a stylist is not even following something as minor as directions on the package. By using heat on a product, especially bleach, you speed up the action of the product which in turn will make those highlights go from a nice golden blond to a raging white. WHITE highlights are a huge no-no by anyone with any sort of artistic vision and eye for the health of the clients hair.The highlights are white you have a brown base ....Brown + transparent white hair gives the appearance of "gray".......the answers are always in the theory of the color wheel ! Yes Black and white make gray but brown is very very very close to black....and that is the entire reason they "appear" gray!

Its also dangerous to apply heat to chemicals not designed to take heat. That is a very basic hair color rule being ignored by these people.

3.) Over Busy Stylist: This person is overbooked, has clients coming in every 1/2 hour or even every 15 minutes -- with no assistants. They "buy time" by slapping clients under dryers ... making them think they are getting something accomplished - by sitting under a dryer, instead of sitting in a chair with nothing "going on". This buys her time to juggle the next client/clients. By leaving the product on the hair too long OR too long PLUS with the heat ... again...they create the "too white" highlight. This stems from being over-booked with too many clients.

. So to use a hair dryer as a means of stalling so they can cram in more clients, is the base of the bigger problem. Too white highlights. They need to plan their day better, clients deserve individual attention, they can hire an assistant ...there are many ways around those issues.

I would rather rinse the color off at proper stage, then apply a deep conditioner, if I need to buy a little time. Everyone benefits from an extra dose of deep conditioner! Especially the hair. Care about the hair.

4.) Using only 1 Color in Highlight formula. Another simple rule to achieve a standard Jennifer Anniston-type highlight is, to use more than 1 color. I never use under 3 colors, with 5 thru 10 my normal array, its just not in my make-up to not use a variety of colors. I don't know how any Stylist can arrive at a decent look without at least 2 lights and 1 dark if not many more. A variety of tones are needed for a natural look.

The idea inhair color is to go for the color of a child's hair. That has been a great goal in all my work and one of the reasons for my success. A child's hair color has dozens of colors in it and that is why it is so beautiful. That would need to be part of the formula for any Stylist/colorist that you see. If the stylist is using only one color, you should ask for at least 3 and if they balk at that you are in the wrong chair...to avoid the confrontation in the chair clarify this when making your appointment. If you have gray highlights, do not put up with them... that is terrible that you are paying good money for a huge mistake.


5.) Too Many Foils. Along with the other 4 reasons, I have noticed that these Stylists put hundreds of foils in clients hair. Yes, that justifies charging more money, but there is no reason to put that many foils in the hair. It will never make the hair color look better if you are using one color, bleach.

If you are only using one color you are making more white stripes which adds to that brown plus white equals gray 'look'. Therefore, too many highlights/foils will only exacerbate the problem.


If you are one of the many people out there with the Gray Highlight issue. Try to figure out which of the 5 issues is the root of your problem, one or all will be I can guarantee you. Either speak frankly with your stylist, get a new one, or join the many that are starting to learn the basics of hair color and beginning to figure out how to professionally color their hair at home with us on Killerstrands. This is not a subject anyone really talks about, but isn't that what Killerstrands is all about.
Talking about any and every issue that no one else will in regards to hair, hair color or anything hair related.

Today in 2015, I truly feel the solution to this is to go one color go Level 6 light brown Cool Neutral.... NO ONE HAS THIS COLOR , but celebs and models!
They have it because it is rare, beautiful and can be easily shiny... ! In the summer you can add a few light ribbons around the face and in winter just go back to a beautiful level 6, I'm telling you.....it ........is...........GORGEOUS !

Think about it

Remember always Highlights are history......Think New ..........

Use some of our Color enhanced Shampoo's & Conditioners ....... 
................Called BOOST and BURST in 35 unique and long lasting colors

Killer Chemist "KC"