Chocolate Mauve : HOT Hair Color for Fall

October 26, 2016, 11:52 pm

≫ Next: Blonds with Benefits:

≪ Previous: 10th ANNIVERSARY SALE - Guy Tang Hair Color & Thriven-Lite: 25%OFF : Today & Mon. April 24th

$

0

0

Brunettes have long been linked with brainpower. Dark , intense and mysterious.....gentlemen may prefer blondes but it looks like men would rather 'marry' brunettes -- or so the saying goes. I'm not sure how the old saying works, when 9 out of 10 women are are not virgin Blond ( it coming instead from a tube and brush!) !! 

While blondes supposedly have more fun, it is the brunettes who have an allure, they are "perceived" as more reliable and dependable...maybe helped in part by the coffee-colored locks of Athena -- the Goddess of Wisdom! In the 20's Coco Chanel portrayed a unique, chic, perfectly coiffed brunette hair and nails. Jump forward to the 50's and 'Gentlemen Marry Brunettes'star Jane Russell and"Cat on a Hot Tin Roof"vixen Elizabeth Taylor - both exuded an air-of-mystery.

Brunette has always represented class and sophistication....but also can be edgy and dark.There are so many brunettes in classic films who have become icons. Brunette hair really reflects the light, giving it a glossy healthy appearance. Think about Megan Fox, Jessica Alba, Michelle Obama, Kate Beckinsale, Mila Kunis, Eva Mendes. . .  all beautiful.
brunette beauties. All of them can both go from casual waves to full-on glam Goth as well as using their chocolate hair to highlight their best features.

I feel sometimes maybe brunette's are misunderstood and they give off an air of being timid, cautious, contemplative or maybe not as adventurous as maybe a redhead or blonde. But I have a couple suggestions for you. The problem with many different techniques on the darker locks, once you begin to lighten what-so-ever the hair - you go down that road of fighting the DURP you most likely have. { DURP being the Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment that pops through when you begin lifting color out of the hair strands - such as: red/orange/gold/brass ..}. What can brunette's do to spice things up color wise? Especially all you Crib Colorists out there ?!?!

The best thing for dark hair is for it to be shiny . . . how do we get dark hair shiny? :

• 100% healthy, that way it is easier for it to be healthy.....healthy = shiny. Shiny is good.
• Deep Treatment Conditioners - Use Thriven ( Killerstrands own DEEP CONDITIONER) - works miracles - truly miracles : sleep with it in hair !
• Hair Color - Professional ONLY. If you have never tried professional hair color, now is the time, it is made so well now, that using it {correctly} truly makes your hair shinier, thicker, & gives a super healthy appearance. 
• Using a Brunette toner with Color Touch by Wella - this is what we use to add shine when shooting commercials.
• Use a Shine Spray - we have our own : a nice light silicone which both protects hair from heat and imparts more Shine. If you are a Stylist give your client a shot of hair scent, as they go through their day that scent will remind them of you and what a unique Stylist you are !
• Go for the NEW COLOR THIS FALL ! ! ! ......We have added this new color to BOOST & BURST our color enhanced shampoos& conditioners...Chocolate MAUVE,
  what a name. . . . what a gorgeous color and we have added both a Shampoo & Conditioner in this color. If you have brunette hair already Just shampoo 'in'...........for 3-8 minutes.............rinse/ towel dry, apply conditioner ....process for 5-50 minutes ( depending on  intensity desired). If your hair is different colors the result will be striking as these products are translucent {letting your own hair color sparkle through ! ! }

 Brunettes are less maintenance than Blondes, yet having your roots grow out (if you have more than 10-20% gray), will be more noticeable than their blonde counterparts.

There is many beautiful brunettes taking a walk on the dark side. If you think blondes have more fun . . .think again ! !

---

Blonds with Benefits:

May 15, 2017, 9:32 pm

≫ Next: How To Use BOOST & BURST - PROPERLY - 25% OFF - 4 days - 6/6/17 to 6/10/17

≪ Previous: Chocolate Mauve : HOT Hair Color for Fall

$

0

0

Want to go from Dark Brown Hair to a Lighter Color? Here’s 1 way and there are a couple! 







Below was a question posted in a magazine, that ruffled my tint brush - - so I decided to make a post out of it! Many Group members still are confused on this brown to blond application, so I will be bringing it up from time to time as I have in the past . . hoping one of my many explanations - - sinks in. This is also a situation that many would head to a hair stylist for, which as the article shows……… hair stylists can make mistakes ( big ones) all the time – just like the public. The only thing I can do is present the various techniques and let you decide. My suggestions are almost always not the norm you will hear or see. So please consider them first I always choose the procedure that will be the most gentle on the hair FIRST….. ALWAYS - - - - - ALWAYS ! . . .       
Whatever you do from now on . . . do not just let a Hair Stylist do whatever she wants, always ask her the plan of attack. Become an active member in the decisions of your hair color procedures, either by researching or reading. Even when I was in the top Salon in Malibu, CA. for years, I would see Stylists all around me doing the technique as described in the above add.. 
It is not proper etiquette to ‘teach” or even to make suggestions in the Salon . Which is why… in every single Salon you will ever go to there will be one or two Stylists that are just so much better than the rest. Before I got into this crazy business, I used to wonder ‘why’ if they had a couple great Colorists or Cutters….why didn’t the rest of the Stylists catch up or learn from the 1 or 2 that were so ahead of the game ??  Well, that is just not how it works in Hair Salon etiquette.   
                       
Many just don’t understand the fact that bleach (lightener) really was not made to remove old hair color. It was formulated to lighten the hair strands themselves. In the most rare of conditions or when the area you want to lighten is very small like ‘the fringe’  then yes I would agree with a (very) small application of it but not like this particular question where she and many of you want to go all-over lighter.



I want to dispel the answer given here and the idea laid out to you by some hair Stylists that they just do not have your hair’s best interest in mind. If you are a hair stylist I can promise you if you put your clients hair’s health as your number 1 concern and teach them tricks to help them keep it that way in between appointments with you…. you will have a client for life. Or if you are a Crib Colorist this will get you thinking of the proper direction you should head to lighten your hair and keep the healthy shiny hair everyone should have. There are many posts in the history of this BLOG for any additional information you may need as well. This is a little different than most hair blogs, as “education” is our main goal here. Many times I wish I just had a very light and easy blog . . . where I threw a photo up of a cool hair style and wrote a paragraph and was done. But no one was teaching hair correctly and I wanted to “gift” the women (and men) of America with the knowledge I have. 

If you have a subject you want to hear about please email me at Killerstrands.info@gmail.com with the SUBJECT: Hair Education Topic Idea for KC…I will have my crew forward them to me and i will write about it . . . . be sure to be clear on what you have questions about so I can continue to help! ! !

Hair Coloring is an Art of Chemistry if you were to analyze how to be a great Colorist- - - learning specific basics of chemistry just truly do help. Whomever wrote this answer, did not fully understand the chemistry of Hair Color - - or could be so overly anxious in trying to acquire customers they neglected the choice that would be the healthiest for the clients hair. I want to educate those of you who want the choice that: a) leaves the hair the healthiest or b) those that want to be able to tell their Stylists exactly what you want done







“Tint” being the perfect and most appropriate term for the actual cream that comes out of the tube that you mix with Developer to produce the haircolor tint you apply to the head.. I try to teach as if you were in a strange form of a Cosmetology Class.


Now back to why you can’t apply new hair color on top of old hair color to lighten it. . . .the answer ? ? Because Tint is just not made to “lighten” previously applied tint


or Hair color just cannot lighten old hair color


….the technology is just not there yet. Maybe someday.................
 although they have been working on it for 40 years….so, don’t hold your breath. Once there is tint on the hair, hair-color cannot be used to lighten the hair.


Once virgin (non-colored) hair has been darkened (or lightened) by any hair color at all, it is NO LONGER considered virgin hair . It has now moved into the next category referred to as “colored” or “tinted” hair. Therefore the girl in the ad had tinted hair darker brown and then wanted to go lighter…. with that being the case yes, you can use bleach but doing it that way is more damaging to the hair.

The bleach doesn’t remove the dark brown color it burns through it.

Following the process of burning through the darker layers of hair color the bleach finally reaches the hair strand itself and then lightens what was intended to be lightened - - the hair itself. Only when there is no other option would I use bleach to lighten ‘black’, ‘dark brown’ ‘brown’ or any darker tinted hair.

A frequent mistake made by many home (crib) colorists AND Hair Stylists is each and every time they re-touch their hair ( touch up the roots) they apply the tint to not only the new growth but also the entire head of hair & process both for the entire 60 – 75 minutes.… huge HUGE mistake. Tint on top of Tint on top of Tint makes for dull – knotty – yucky –  melding into a black mess of hair. If the “ends or the “lengths” of the haircolor need refreshing… there is another way to accomplish this… so the entire head of hair remains shiny and healthy looking.

The proper way for her to go lighter with that description is to Vanish the color out of the hair. Vanish is a hair color remover, that works without bleach – without peroxide – without any damaging  ingredients….it simply reverses the way the color came into the hair molecularly…..by reversing the the molecular process.   here is a link :  http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/vanish-color-remover  .

Once Vanish has been applied from 1-6 applications which all depends on the color you want to be. You may recolor in many different manners….you can go lightest brown with blond slices a la Jen Anniston….or whatever your heart desires. Using Vanish keeps the bonds of the hair strong. With the hair strong and light with the darker Tint gone, you have a healthy base to re-color a lighter color even if you only want a lighter overall color you will be abel . . . method keeps the hair strong – healthy – & shiny.

The 12 Levels of the LEVEL  SYSTEM 

How To Use BOOST & BURST - PROPERLY - 25% OFF - 4 days - 6/6/17 to 6/10/17

June 6, 2017, 1:09 am

≫ Next: Bleaching for Rainbows : Dark Hair Yearns to Be Blonde, the Absolute Safest Way - Zero Damage

≪ Previous: Blonds with Benefits:

$

0

0

FOR ALL BLOG READERS . . . . . 
We have a 25% OFF BOOST & BURST : 6/6/17 to 6/10/17 - use code below when checking out - SALE for BLOG READERS ONLY ! ! !

Code: WhatHappenedToKC


 I have many a phone call on this subject so its time to put it in words for everyone.

I Received this Review of BOOST & BURST today, which I do on a weekly basis ....but the way she put her Review in words was so awesome, it really warmed my heart and made me feel like the work I do is appreciated.

So, Thank You Jessica . . .  
your Review means the world to me and I hope it helps the rest of you understand how the line works. 

 To use Boost it is like any other color-depositing shampoo only our pigment is stronger darker and lasts longer.

BURST is the Gold mine though. Just shampoo, rinse, towel dry, apply BURST for 20-40 minutes, ( you also can apply 5 minutes in every shower like my 86 year mom does she loves silver bullet!) 
Use with the free cap you get or even better and faster purchase the bonnet hair dryer we have, use heat or even sit in the sun Heat makes color last longer! ! ! . rinse, and use INTENSIVE TO LOCK IT IN. The colors we have can erase Brass/gold in brown hair ( H'Ash Brown - BURST) .............accentuate SILVER in White or Silver HAIR or EVEN turn Hair Silver that is Blonde ( SILVER BULLET) ...........Spark up Copper hair (killer Copper 2) OR FOR Hispanics WE EVEN HAVE A TERRIFIC COLOR THAT RIDS YOUR HAIR OF orange ! ! ! (Cafe Azul) 
For those with Rose Gold Hair, our Angel Rose is a true Rose Color, not pink and not red, true Rose !

Remember the best part of Boost Burst and Blast is they come completely out, no residue................and you change colors or use 2...........the colors you can create are endless. Or the fact that you can make your grays hold off for another couple weeks with it....is one of its biggest hidden treasures.

Another one?
Trying to remove old color and color your hair the proper way?
Going through the process ( read every post I have written on "hair color removal") of removing old crappy box color or crappy color someone used on you. Please DO IT THE PROPER way and use BURST for during the week while at work and it does not diminish or affect the color removal process at ALL! But it lets you go through the entire color Removal process the proper way and still show up to work properly (meanwhile!).


Our biggest success of all is our BLAST - metallic conditioners, with our 2 newest additions:

1. Cochella Rose - these are made with metallic MICA but we add micro mini STARS + Hearts  + lightning Bolts and all sorts of interesting shapes in metallic 

1. SXSW Silver   - Metallic Silver , made with 3 silvers, and a sparkle you have never seen before,....plus we add shapes to this one as well - they are micro-mini ( and very expensive!) but I have had them and thought - "HEY'' ...why not ?!?!?!?

What happened to KC on APRIL 29, 2017:

TO ALL KILLERSTRANDS FANS, CUSTOMERS AND FRIENDS:

This is KC 

the owner of  KILLERSTRANDS HAIR CLINIC BLOG & STORE..........

 1st of all I apologize deeply FOR ANY DELAYS & OR mistakes of the past 5 weeks, please take a minute and read.  . . . . . .

On April 29, 2017 I lapsed into a coma for 6 days and very very slowly woke up the 7th day finally, unaware of what had happened, why I was there or what year it was. It took me -- 2 weeks to remember what year it was! I had a massive heart attack with 20% of my heart remaining functioning when all was said and done and they tell me now I basically died and came back to life ! ( Talk about a good excuse!) 

Killerstrands is my baby ! Of course I have people to help . . . but I am the business and the business is me - so things went into massive confusion and no one was running it for 3 1/2 weeks....this happened the day AFTER the 10year BIRTHDAY SALE - BOY what a Time for a heart to crap out!

I just last week got out of the Hospital after I threw a fit that I at least had to have a computer. Well, even when I got one I have not been well enough to return to work but for  1-2 hours a day. I am soooooooo very sorry , so many of you understood -- but there are many I have not been able to explain what happened.  Against advice........... I decided to write you and explain.

I am trying my hardest to recover quickly, but it is not so easy as other medical problems I face. 10's of thousands of you count of me daily & weekly for hair and education and for the 1st time in 10 years I have not been there and for that I sincerely apologize. .

As silly as that may sound, I completely understand how HAIR can make or break a person's day. .. so for all of you I am pushing myself and demanding things happen faster than anyone else seems to think they should -- in order for me to be well and get back to work.

I am currently attached to an exterior defibrillator so if it happens again it will shock my heart back to life.....which that itself is driving me nuts!

This whole thing has been a friggin nightmare and I have received emails about mistakes and delays - I apologize profusely - - - but in this particular instance it truly was unavoidable. When well......... I will send out another email Blast that will incorporate the freebies I have in store for you, but it is too soon, I'm afraid.(soon-soon)

I have avoided putting this info on the Blog as I have listened to others advice about not mixing business with pleasure. But, I decided myself tonight, to post this notice... I feel as I've ''got this'' NOW.. its just going to take longer than my 'will' and I & you must be patient. I'm at work while shipments are going out and for anyone with a problem or question, please TEXT our Store phone number as that is me and only me.

I hope you understand and I know what a loyal and wonderful customers you have all been, please stay with us.... 

I need YOU now more than I EVER HAVE ! ! ! !

I sincerely hope you understand.

warmest regards,

KC

Bleaching for Rainbows : Dark Hair Yearns to Be Blonde, the Absolute Safest Way - Zero Damage

June 17, 2017, 3:30 am

≫ Next: "GREEN" Permanent Hair Color, Checks All My Boxes for great "RESULTS" + A Brand New Look For The Store's Website Up & Coming Soon

≪ Previous: How To Use BOOST & BURST - PROPERLY - 25% OFF - 4 days - 6/6/17 to 6/10/17

$

0

0

I Apologize Brunettes But BLONDE'S 

Rule the Air Waves & Social Media

This week a bombardment of you who have very dark hair ( Level 1-4)  just insist on wanting to be Blonde. I get it and I understand but if you will follow my preaching in this very long and laborious Blog - you can be platinum as well

If you were in my chair I would weigh you out . . .  spend 10 minutes trying to talk you into enjoying the glory of dark hair and giving you other tricks you could do, but those tricks are better left to the pro's, remember I like to teach here the color jobs that I believe all of you can handle and also will be thrilled with the results. The side effect is achieving healthy hair at the same time and is my #1 Concern & the THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR.

I also have experienced those who are dead set on it and if I don't help them they will just keep going until they achieve that crown of platinum glory they have dreamed of since being a small child. So this is for those of you who fit into that category...

WITH THE WEALTH OF CELEBS JUMPING IN MAYBE ITS YOUR TURN TOO?

BEFORE YOU DO REMEMBER THIS ONE SENTENCE:

'' HIGH MAINTENANCE'' 
 ( the phrase derived from turning dark hair ---> platinum ) - so not only it is required to receive touch-ups - it can be taxing on your wallet. The only way many can handle the look is by turning into a Crib Colorist and going "FOR IT" ! ! 

I will give you 10 Don'ts in this process and if you decide to go ahead you must read all posts on this Blog regarding subject matter and I promise if every single question is not answered you can text me at the store's number and I will answer it. (if its complicated then you must send your Killer 18 questions with your question - ( just GOOGLE the Killer 18 questions)........

1.  DO NOT USE POWDERED LIGHTENER/BLEACH - - - - which is where I feel all the damage comes from in lightening hair!  There is no need to, cream lighteners exist. I don't like any of them so had to make our own and then I learned to tint it a rich blue/velvet which helps with 1 less bleaching application AND removal of brass/gold. Ours is a Cream & oil based Bleach, not just Cream like everyone else and I use a very special triad of oils, that make the hair shine afterward.
2. NEVER use any bleach/lightener to remove OLD 'previous'  hair color, that is not at all what it is made for, the single biggest mistake Stylists make, to me.  Use a Color Remover.
3. DO NOT try this unless you are fully educated on the process, it is the single most tricky color to get right. I see celebrities all the time with yellow hair and it just makes my skin crawl. 
4. Never think 1 Lightening session is going to be all you have to do. If you are a Level 9 VIRGIN hair with Zero color on it, you would be the only one pretty much that can get away with 1 bleaching session. It runs the gamut from 2-12. ! Yep 12 boxes of VANISH means you most likely have 15 boxes of old black hair color on your hair for years and the highest numbers of boxes I sold to a woman like that was 13!  But, you never heard a happier person when complete. This is a one time procedure and you will learn so much, it will never happen again!
5.  If your hair is 2 feet long I would not suggest this procedure at all. Yes, it can be done but most people with that long of hair do not really want to cut it, the shorter hair the better. I mean this one seriously.
6.  Do not think that you must buy 5-8 boxes of VANISH to remove your old hair color, I fully realize how expensive it is. One of your biggest mistakes would be NOT reading about the (1) Shampoo Train  (2) Malibu DDL Lifter Packet (3) Wella's RENEW Color Remover(4) Malibu CPR Remover.........are all valid measures to removing old hair color. The goal? do it as gently as possible. Even going in a pool with chlorine is a nice help - don't over due obviously! 
7. Don't think for a minute if you have thin hair this isn't for you, this IS for you . . . it is what so many celebs with famously thin hair do, ( they just wear $100,000. wigs on the movie screens! ) Truly ! Look at Renee Zellwager, Julianne Hough, Michele Ledger Williams, Charlize Theron....all have naturally thin hair. Lightener kind of blows out the cuticle and makes it appear thicker and it sure will handle and style better! 
8. NEVER -EVER - EVER apply the lightener just willy-nilly all over the head, that is not how it is done, you MUST invest in proper tools and we sell them cheap, on purpose. Divide head in quadrants. Take each section at a time. Purchase a wall mirror ( home depot) where you can see the back of your head while you apply it is weird at first, but you will become a pro sooner rather than later. Think of hair color sort of like cooking.......both are science really. If you follow the rules and do things in the proper order, its a "piece-of-cake"! 
9. DO NOT take short-cuts, if that is what you want to do, this procedure isn't for you. There are NONE allowed. Remember this big first procedure is only done once! The idea is to get all of the hair platinum 1st and then its not that bad.... if you think about it....every 4-8 weeks all you need is 1 of the 2 applications that come in our Kit to retouch roots. I always suggest starting with the pro Kit, I know its expensive but hey, pay for it over 6 months through PAY PAL...........it will assure you have enough product, and most likely will end up with enough to do your roots for another 6 months minimum (depending on many various factors that is - length of hair, texture, porosity, denseness, etc..)

Last but not least my 2 favorite pet peeves: (1) Never EVER apply Bleach to the roots first, it will ALWAYS be the last place you apply it (heat from head makes it process faster than rest of hair - thus the term "hot roots" you may have heard of) Finally, the key to this whole thing working out properly is being sure you have applied the lightener enough times, you want the hair to be yellow free enough, where if you do not want to apply a Toner it will look beautiful as well. But with all the Toners out these days, I can tell you its a whole lotta fun to experiment. So do NOT forget to apply lightener, process 65-70 minutes, remove only by rinsing ( no shampoo) dry and check color. Bleach must be applied on dry hair, so you will see the color after each lightening.

 

I hope this finds you well and I very much appreciate all the love and prayers everyone has sent me - they are working

But as you can see I am up and roaring again ( just a bit slower and more carefully) - 

 

Watch for new things once again and we have a FACEBOOK GROUP (which I am looking for a moderator for - -  just to work with me - - anyone interested?)

(Please TEXT/or call the store phone number)  

 

and am considering opening the old group up again. Lots of you remain with many questions for me to answer. 

 

Bleachin For Rainbows .............KC
 

"GREEN" Permanent Hair Color, Checks All My Boxes for great "RESULTS" + A Brand New Look For The Store's Website Up & Coming Soon

July 12, 2017, 3:00 am

≫ Next: There is Not A Reason In The World to Get Hair Extensions

≪ Previous: Bleaching for Rainbows : Dark Hair Yearns to Be Blonde, the Absolute Safest Way - Zero Damage

$

0

0

After I was forced into retirement, from the Salon environment - I was lucky enough to find this group that a semi-famous/brilliant Cosmetic Chemist taught. He had invented mascara for Max Factor in the 60's, I think it was and made formula's for new products all the time. Anyway for 2 years we got to pick his brain about everything "personal Care" related, and boy was I in the right place at the right time. I learned the other side of the arguments about a lot of misconceptions about our hair & Cosmetics industry & to be perfectly frank, most of these Corporations are not trying to kill us, they really are not, because there are good people (like my teacher) who are simply trying to just make better . . . . safer. . . products for mankind. Don't get me wrong there are a couple dozen companies that should be shut down that I can think of off the top of my head....there are always a few jerks in every class. But basically they are doing it for a good reason.. The most involved topic that I have heard endless hours of debate on is on the word "NATURAL". What is.........what isn't?? What products can we call NATURAL.I have never decided which side of the fence I'm on because I understand both now and both sides are necessary for things to run smoothly (kind of like our government).

Which brings me to today's topic : Natural Hair color...........or as I like to refer to it as:
GREEN Hair color. When you think about it "natural'' just means anything that has come from nature or the earths ground or atmosphere.

This particular category to me does not refer to any hair color product you buy at the health store, trader joes, costco, etc.....I'm talking a professional hair color that is made to be as pure and as natural as can possibly be made and most importantly does not sacrifice amazing results.
 I have been testing these for over 10 years and I have never found one that I would attach my name to. This changed last weekend when I triedEssensity( which of course we carry in store) on my Level 8 Copper-red hair. I had been receiving multiple positive reviews from customers . . . enough to where I decided I needed try it myself on my own hair, because that to me is the true test .Redheads are so sensitive to everything.


Good news ladies and gents - I loved it. . . and my scalp didn't feel all weird and tight afterward either. Hey, I don't know if I am allergic to any ingredients that are in hair color but as I've aged I notice for the first time ever i started to have minor sensitivities after coloring my hair, but back then I had tested them all......& couldn't find one I loved, this one I do.
Then Essensity re-did their formula and that is when the good reviews started to come in.....for me in a completely organic way.

Let me Quote you what the company says about the product:

ESSENSITY COLOR PRODUCT RANGE

 *New ESSENSITY vs. previous ESSENSITY Color

PURE PERFORMANCE.....ESSENSITY offers color performance and results.

The permanent ammonia-free oil color respects the multi-tonal reflections of the hair and provides up to 100% white hair coverage with up to 4 levels of lift.

• Ammonia-free Permanent Color
• 58 shades
• Up to 100% white coverage
• Up to 30% more color intensity and 50% longer color retention* 
• The Secret Lies In Phytolipid Technology -- The combination of specially re-designed color pigment mixes and plant-based oils that contain lipids found in healthy-looking hair maximizes color performance.Re-designed color pigments for most precise tone direction and enhanced color intensity with true-to-tuft & true-to-nature results.

Optimal Performance
Up to 4 Levels of Lift

They have a few new colors even ! :

For those with sensitivities we finally have a well thought out brand - which BTW I heard just today is being re-designed and updated packaging. I mean I think this packaging is fine, but Schwarzkopf has a whole new impressive line of Blonde products I will be adding with very snazzy packaging ! I don't ever buy products for packaging -  so I do not recommend that to anyone!




Get Ready everyone for a completely NEW LOOK for the store's website
its coming shortly. 
Give it a chance and just try things out, it will be easier in the end, I promise

KC

 

There is Not A Reason In The World to Get Hair Extensions

July 19, 2017, 9:36 am

≫ Next: Its BAD ASS Bitches Week :Celebrate Opening of "ATOMIC BLONDE" :15% OFF - All Lighteners & Bleaches - 1 Week !

≪ Previous: "GREEN" Permanent Hair Color, Checks All My Boxes for great "RESULTS" + A Brand New Look For The Store's Website Up & Coming Soon

$

0

0

Why In The World Would Anyone Get Hair Extensions?

I cannot tell you the amount of people who email me with sad- sorrow-filled stories of hair loss, hair destruction and permanent root damage.

I cannot think of 1 good reason to wear hair extensions. Everyone that wears them looks exactly the same if you ask me. Please everyone think about the fact that you are pulling on your hair and destroying the root of the hair permanently....and once thats done you will never have hair there again. I see ad after ad trying to draw women in to get them and what happens is they get you and then you're almost addicted for a few years and then the horrific damage starts and its too late to help yourself even.

 It is a well known fact that hair extensions can do damage to your natural hair. The glue-tape-laserered, fish line, or one of the many many methods they come up with that is attached to your natural hair can burn and split the ends of your hair and damage it permanently.. This means that you will almost always be required to have the ends of your hair cut after the extensions are removed.

Also, if a lot of long or heavy extensions are added, this applies additional pressure to your scalp. One of the dangers of extra pressure to your scalp can be a thinning of your natural hair. In some cases there have been reports of headaches from the added weight of the hair or allergies to the bonding glue that is used.

Everyone is different and will react to hair extensions in a different way. It depends on a number of factors that you have to consider.

Treasure the hair you have..... try the THRIVEN + Secret Supplement combo -     which has worked for all the women out in Malibu who tried the exttesions 10 years ago when they first came out and couple years later suffered the hair loss problem. It worked for over half of them and that is a pretty good number  . . . .and if that doesn't work - I would definitely invest in one of the hair lasers that help encourage new hair growth that you can purchase on Hammacher Schlemmer catalog they have a fully guaranteed return after 30 days no questions asked. I have purchased from them for years and have never purchased a bad product. And finally if that doesn't work be sure to have a dermatologist check you out and then text or call the store I will try to further help you !

 Join Our Facebook Group that I just re-started and is going to be very helpful once I finish designing and added all the info this website demands it truly is crazy...I had no idea FACEBOOK is as vast as it is.... 
So we will be using that along with Pinterest

Its BAD ASS Bitches Week :Celebrate Opening of "ATOMIC BLONDE" :15% OFF - All Lighteners & Bleaches - 1 Week !

July 28, 2017, 3:00 am

≫ Next: Over Conditioning….Yes, Its a Thing You Can Do To Your Strands ! So Pay Attention Boys & Girls

≪ Previous: There is Not A Reason In The World to Get Hair Extensions

$

0

0

Welcome to BAD ASS BITCHES WEEK

 to Celebrate the First Female Bad Ass 

In a major Feature Film

 Say Hello to Charlize Theron as the

ATOMIC BLONDE

in celebration of this achievement Killerstrands will have a 1 week Sale on All products under our

Lighteners Collection = 15%OFF

from 7/28 - 8/4 . . . 

Use Killerstrands own 

Creamy Oil bleach Kit : which is tinted Violet/Blue to help fight brass

you too can be a BAD ASS BITCH !

All Instructions are here on this Blog 

just put 3 terms in Search bar:

• Blonde hair
• bleach & tone 
• Platinum Demo 

PLUS w/ Every Order placed for this week You Will

 receive 1 FREE Product:
 Please choose 1 out of the 3 selections:

1. Wrap Cap (love these for deep conditioner or oil treatments) 
2. Tester Size of one of our Own Products - THRIVEN, Gleam, INTENSIVE, thriven-lite
3. Shower Cap 

Please Add what you would like to "notes" section as you check out !

Support the movie if you can 

women should be celebrated as BAD ASSES as well ! 

I have a new girl starting to help with the massive job of trying to keep everyone motivated and educated on the proper way to color and care for hair. . . . 

 her name is Courtney 

. . . . . she is a well educated Crib Colorist and will be contributing writing new Posts here on the Blog, moderating on all of our Social Media hubs as well - which I am very excited about

Be the Baddest Bitch You Can Be ! 

KC

Over Conditioning….Yes, Its a Thing You Can Do To Your Strands ! So Pay Attention Boys & Girls

July 30, 2017, 4:44 pm

≫ Next: Welcome A New Member of Our Team and a New Writer - Who Will Join In the EDUCATION Process As well ! Yahooeyy! !

≪ Previous: Its BAD ASS Bitches Week :Celebrate Opening of "ATOMIC BLONDE" :15% OFF - All Lighteners & Bleaches - 1 Week !

$

0

0

Over Conditioning….yes, it’s a thing.

One of our very own Crib Colorist, I will call her CG , until she gets brave enough to come introduce herself is going to help me with the Social Media and I am Beyond thrilled. !

 Here is her story:

She has been with me a very long time, and she shared a story with me about her experience with a well-known deep conditioning mask. 

Now she is familiar with our overnight, conditioner Thriven and uses it often, but just happened to run out of it and needed a deep conditioner immediately… so like many of you she purchased a deep conditioning mask from a nearby salon. 

What she didn’t realize, is that, this particular deep conditioner contained protein and was not meant to be left in over the recommended 10 minutes…you know the saying, “less is more”.  Unfortunately, she continued to leave this conditioner in overnight for several weekends in a row until she realized her hair was dry and brittle. 

 Her hair was so dry and brittle that it stuck like Velcro to the fabric off whatever shirt she happened to be wearing.  It was weeks before she discovered that the misuse or overuse of protein was in fact damaging her hair.  It has taken months and several trips to the salon to get rid of the damaged hair. 

The reason that I’m sharing this story, is that, you can over condition the hair!!! 

Please pay attention to the directions on hair products that you buy from salons and beauty supply stores, they often come with little to no advice from the individuals that work there.  

Our Thriven and Thriven Lite can be left in overnight.  It is one of the best things you can use to condition the hair, especially damage or processed hair….or both. 


CG

---

Welcome A New Member of Our Team and a New Writer - Who Will Join In the EDUCATION Process As well ! Yahooeyy! !

August 2, 2017, 2:30 am

≫ Next: There Are "Con's" to Natural/Organic Class Products

≪ Previous: Over Conditioning….Yes, Its a Thing You Can Do To Your Strands ! So Pay Attention Boys & Girls

$

0

0

KC here 
I have 2 things to announce today........... 
1 you will love, the other I'm not sure about !
I have hired a fellow Crib Colorist to help me with social media/education Posts for Blog, she has been a long time Crib Colorist and is quite enthusiastic about the job, as am I - with her. 

I need some help and she sounds perfect, here is what she has written to introduce herself and she has a lot of great ideas, for both Blog & Store.  Plus she is a writer and she actually studied & basically consumed the Blog and is very smart about Color Theory, all from reading the Blog only ........... if she can can learn an entire Cosmetology course from our Blog - so can you ! 

She solved all of her hair problems and was a Level 2-3 and you should see her beautiful blonde (brass-free) hair. It is truly beautiful....truly I don't even believe what she has accomplished ( I will make her Post some photos - so you can see what she has done and you can see with a little reading and old fashioned studying...........you can have the most beautiful hair of your life. SHE DOES! 
I think its going to help having her viewpoint for some of you, as soon as she gets settled I will have her respond to her own Posts to you. But we had to go to war with Facebook as I joined when they were brand new and I couldn't get her on it(I feel so old sometimes in this whole e.commerce world!) But, we won that war and she will be tied directly to you as of now via both Facebook and especially Pinterest.

Her hair is amazing for how dark she is.....naturally....simply amazing.

Take it away CG. . . .

Let me introduce myself

I am a long time Crib Colorist, I cannot reveal my age… but I am definitely on the wrong side of 30. I have four awesome children, the youngest is going to kindergarten and the oldest is college bound, the other two are somewhere in between…so yeah, I’m not really a planner. Anyway, I found KC about three years ago after a box color disaster that resulted in a neon orange halo around my head.  At that time, I did not realize that you could not use color to lighten color… I know, I know, but this is truly a difficult concept for most people to understand and I learned it the hard way.  Since I’m always so busy with my family and life in general, I’ve never had the time to sit in a salon and pay hundreds of dollars for something that I didn’t ask for.  I cannot tell you how many times I’ve asked for Mariah Carey and have gotten Carrot Top.

              

I was ecstatic when I discovered Killerstrands blog and store and learned that I could control what happened to my hair with actual professional hair products…. I mean, it’s my hair and I want what I want.

Finally, there is someone out there that wants to help us!!! I’ve made mistakes along the way, so I suggest that you read and read carefully. If you are new to this wonderful website and store, welcome, and please know that good hair and patience are one in the same.

I’ll see you around!

Crib Colorist

CG

She wrote a wonderful little Post on going Blonde and  being as it IS #ATOMICBLONDE week ..... I may as well Post it Now.. . . . it reveals the pitfalls in getting to (brass-free)  blonde and I can tell from what she wrote she made a few mistakes in getting there ! 
I think many of you will appreciate and relate to it. . . .

 

Going Blonde?

Here are some Tips for the Crib Colorist… from a Crib Colorist

1.       If you have damage….STOP!!!

If you have next level damage, using a lightener or bleach will just #highlightthe damage and your hair will end up like straw when dry and gummy when wet.

2.       Choose the Lightener or Bleach for your level of experience

I find that cream lighteners like Killerstrands very own Creamy Oil Bleach Kit, give you a little bit more working time because they do not dry out as quickly and are gentler. Remember, once the bleach is dry…it is no longer working, meaning all it is doing is drying out the hair which leads to damage. Whatever you do, please do not buy drugstore lightener, lightener from Sally’s or shopping sites like Amazon because you will almost always pay for it later.

3.       Make sure that you have everything you need at hand

Nothing ruins your day like finding out that you do not have everything you need to go blonde. Order weeks in advance and don’t forget your toner!

4.       Do not use cheap brushes!!!

Invest in good quality brushes. Low quality brushes will pull and snag your hair…remember, you want to be as gentle as possible when doing any kind of process to your hair.

5.       Do not bleach squeaky clean hair.

Wait at least for third day hair…longer if possible, letting those natural oils build up to protect you hair, especially if you plan on using lightener or bleach on or near the scalp.

6.       Know what is in your water

Depending on where you live, you may want to consider investing in a shower filter. Minerals metallics, chlorine and even some medications can cause a chemical reaction with the lightener, which can sometimes cause the hair to smoke or even melt.

7.       Don’t be Basic!

#atomicblonde

CG

There Are "Con's" to Natural/Organic Class Products

August 4, 2017, 11:05 am

≫ Next: Hair Color Removers and The Puzzle Surrounding Them

≪ Previous: Welcome A New Member of Our Team and a New Writer - Who Will Join In the EDUCATION Process As well ! Yahooeyy! !

$

0

0

Asked about a difference in one of our Oils lately, I decided it was a good chance to let you in on a couple 'drawbacks' I STUMBLED upon as I went through my learning stages with the ole 'natural'& 'organic' categories.Coming from the first person in any generation of both my ex's & my own family's & anyone either of us knew EVER in our lives history - to not only:

• have both my kids 100% natural ( no drugs) .....but also to
• made baby food from food I steamed, boiled & chopped up (before cuisinart)
• did not use a microwave ( they were new)
• nursed them both : couple years

That is the type of person I was wwwwwway before the masses picked up on any of these trends. After I truly studied the science of it all and then began playing with things in a lab, my entire set of opinions & ideas changed.  At times I will receive inquiries about the "oils'' I use being different .....whether it be feeling - looking- smelling or - working... 
 

Same oils - different vendors/ different country's/different dirt/ different plants.............which means different outcome

That's the part about "natural" that many people don't realize.

Things made in a lab......... of course.............. will always be exactly the same

Lab ingredients ( lab created oils are "silicone's" and all the various types of them) - - 
Or there are certain SATURATED and UNSATURATED Oils - -  that are made of natural ingredients that go through multiple processes to make them more "SIMILAR" to each other....

so the outcome is more EXACTLY the same......but a true natural - organic ingredient : which is what a 'carrier' oil is ..............would
( and should) be different, every time.
If its not then someone is tampering with it, that shouldn't be!

I've bought Rose-hips oil for over 20 years now because it is my absolute favorite for my dry sensitive skin and one time.........I mix it with others because alone it is much too powerful. Rose-hips are the flower of a rose plant. Think of all the zillions of types of roses there are. Each rose produces a different color rose-hips - - which in turn creates a different oil...........it can be different in:

• color
• density
• scent
• feel
• slip...........

Same with all carrier oils which is what these are.

When I started Killerstrands and began sharing it, I had to purchase in large amounts so I had purchased Several GALLONS which is out-of-this-world in cost....

But it was from a different hemisphere let alone country / dirt / farm / plant (can you imagine how many different types of roses there are!?!?!?!)
The difference was night and day...and the scent of it was unbearable - so now I only buy in small batches, because I just never know.....

and I don't really want to, otherwise, again.............its made in a lab.

People complained about the cost and that forced me to purchase the middle of the road version instead of the top-of-the-line

 -- although there really there is no such thing as a low quality rose-hips oil. 

Regarding the scent of the oils...............

There really is no scent to any of these oils
Have you ever purchased a plain vegetable oil? What do they smell like? Oil !

Any fragrance there was we added........... a very tiny amount of an essential oil, because soooo many people have sensitivities to fragrance now-a-days, I had to get rid of the fragrance oil we originally used.

Essential Oils come directly from a plant as well and are processed as little as possible/
they are the single most natural way to have a "bottle of scent".......they also depend if you bought a certain fragrance of each essential oil---------lets just say "blood orange". But the blood orange scent comes from the LEAVES that are put through a big giant PRESS and then a whole process takes place to extract some sort of scent from those leaves and a whole complex process to get very little oil out of,
but what it is NOT................is . . . . it is NOT from the fruit of the orange. Then this Blood orange can be from Spain or it can be from Bolivia and that is where I notice the biggest difference from northern to southern hemisphere ! ! !

Kind of depressing ...huh?!

Now to continue on to "natural"organic" hair color? That is even worse I am sure there are some people out there that have tried the hair color you can buy at a health food store/ Whole Foods that are happy , but in the last 10 years all I have ever heard are all the disasters and orange hair results. Doing hair color organically if you really think about it makes no sense. I mean that is how Cleopatra died her hair, with plants that sat in oils for a zillion years, is that what you really want to experiment on your hair with? I highly recommend you  use either Essensity by Schwarzkopf

or  INNOSENSE  by Wella

both are as organic as you are going to get ( no ammonia) and yet still have beautiful hair color and shine!

KC

Hair Color Removers and The Puzzle Surrounding Them

August 8, 2017, 2:30 am

≫ Next: Brunette, Brunette . . .Our Scarlett Was Brunette . . . What Say You, Dear Rhett ? ?

≪ Previous: There Are "Con's" to Natural/Organic Class Products

$

0

0

I am kind of known for my various techniques of hair color removal, I have the expensive technique's and I receive many questions about that knowledge.

I get this same question many many times from you, and I think it will be better to just answer it here as opposed to many, many email responses. The question?

Why is it that more Stylists don't use Vanish (hair color remover) when switching hair colors ?

The Quick Answer:: Most Stylists did not go to a Sassoon Academy, there are only 2 in the world. Santa Monica, California & London, in the United Kingdom. Sassoon has these very very high standards that are not matched anywhere. They are very small schools, they limit the people enrolling, they cost a small fortune, their nickname?: the "Harvard" of hair schools, many people have not heard of it, but mostly I have noticed that many stylists just think its going to be fun and games and dress-up when they work in a Salon or Salon world and SASSOON is run like a boot camp and they are British and not very nice, to be perfectly frank. 
So if young people do interview there and they tell you the attendance rule...if you miss more than 6 times --Your OUT-- NO REFUND either ! ! ! Well, that pretty much scares screw-ups off. I almost didn't make it. I hated the regimen and I had never had anyone order me around like that - shit I was born in Santa Monica California the same city I was going to be in to go to this very mean school. It used to be a dump, now Arnold Schwarzenegger owned the entire street we were on .

   Sassoon is the only place that really trains you the proper way. The number one thing they teach you is to take care of the HEALTH OF THE HAIR - - FIRST. Then figure out what you will offer or talk them into. Sound familiar? That's where it was drilled into me and that is why I drill it into you. Its the key to having that hair you've always wanted. If there is one thing I stand for on this BLOG it is the truth. I will not sell you a product just to make a buck if it isn't right for you. I won't give you guidance unless its simple, but never hair color formula's unless I know the history of your hair. THESE SUBJECTS & FACTS ARE SO IMPORTANT.
                                     

The reason hair stylists don't use Vanish is
(in my mind one of these reasons):

• It takes a super long time to do it correctly.  I worked in Malibu & Hollywood - people didn't come to me with $$ problems ( I was lucky).... but I'm based in reality... no one wants to pay a fortune for hair color removal. So most won't pay for what it costs ( and that is because a full service can take 8 hours of 1 day, think about how many people most stylists see in 1 day) if they are doing your hair all day.... well guess who has to pay for all that time? It makes sense and for those of you who have done this at home, I know you all will back me up on this. VANISH is the #1 safest + healthiest and least harmful method for removing old hair color ...too dark hair color....or screwed up hair color  - PERIOD!.................yep even better than the Shampoo Train I came up with to satisfy all those who cannot afford it. The Shampoo Train is not as healthy on your hair - BY FAR than VANISH. 
• You hardly ever need 1 box, you always need more.1 Box is 2 applications. 2 Applications : done correctly can take minimum 3-4 hours. Most people need 3-4-5 boxes. If you have level 1-5, you will never do it correctly with less than 3 boxes which = 6 applications !I will never forget selling this one lady about 6-7 years ago when I was the only one doing this ..........11 Boxes of Vanish, I shit you not. She had bra-strap length thick fuzzy trashed hair that she had been putting black BOXED color on for 20 years. Her complaint : "I can't tell the difference between my broom and my hair when I touch them."....Boxed hair color is the absolute worst hair color in the world to get out of hair. It also ruins the hair more than any other color on planet earth I would love to see the formula they use to make that crap , because CRAP IT IS!
• They've never heard of it - - Stylists don't take it well When YOU know something THEY DON'T! .........Its almost like Doctors nowadays, we all look everything up on GOOGLE before we go in there and are loaded with correct & incorrect info. we batter them with questions with and they try to run out the door before we have a chance to debate the info. When you tell people you found it on the web - used to be a joke. NOT ANYMORE! Just like doctors, when you tell Stylists you found it on the web - they think AMAZON --& think Bullshit because half their color is counterfeit. But half or maybe a little more of our customers are Certified Stylists, so chances are nowadays - more of your Stylists are not going to be so perplexed by the word Color REMOVER "VANISH" !
• #1 Reason its EXPENSIVE and Time consuming........PERIOD.  But if you do it yourself, you can save a shitload of money and then if that is all you want to do at home, THEN have your hair colored Professional, to start on another healthy hair path!

  DO NOT USE BLEACH TO REMOVE COLOR, BLEACH IS A HAIR LIGHTENER NOT A COLOR REMOVER AND I DON'T CARE WHAT ANYONE SAYS, IF YOUR HAIR HEALTH IS MARGINAL, IT WILL END UP TRASHED.

 BITE THE BULLET - BUY IT FROM US, WE GIVE YOU MY PERSONAL INSTRUCTIONS, DO IT YOURSELF AND BEGIN WITH A DAY OR TWO OF THE SHAMPOO TRAIN. Save that dough and go forth.

( remember on this Blog there is a SEARCH BAR @ the top of the page, just put in there the topic you want to research and the Posts will pop up - its run by GOOGLE and works like a charm!)

Any good - I mean REALLY GOOD Salon is nothing like fun and games. You are solving major problems and your goal is always : Perfection.

Or at least mine is ! 

BURST - Colored Conditioner  + BOOST Color Tinted Shampoo

Brunette, Brunette . . .Our Scarlett Was Brunette . . . What Say You, Dear Rhett ? ?

August 15, 2017, 6:48 pm

≫ Next: Become LLLEVEL Headed, Knowing the ''Level System of Hair Coloring" Can Prevent Disasters

≪ Previous: Hair Color Removers and The Puzzle Surrounding Them

$

0

0

Let’s give it up for our Dark Haired Beauties

Lately, there seems to be so much focus on blonde or platinum blonde hair that we almost forget about all those gorgeous brunettes out there.  Brunette hair comes in so many different shades of brown, from the deepest, richest dark to chestnut, to honey brown. There has always been something mysterious about dark haired beauties. And do blondes really have more fun? The answer is NO! I can tell you from experience, blondes are high maintenance, especially when your hair is naturally dark like mine. There are a few Boost and Burst semi-permanent colors that could either enhance or tone your beautiful brunette hair. Keep in mind, these are color depositing shampoos and conditioners that will eventually wash out.

Boost Shampoo and Burst Conditioner are both great for delivering semi-permanent pigment on top of the hair strands, and with Burst being a conditioner, you can leave it on for as long as you like as it conditions the hair while helping you reach your desired color or tone.

Café Azul– This is a gorgeous brown (blue base) that will remove any orange tones....excellent for Latino's or any damn person, orange is a very common complaint!

Cashmere Chocolate–  Is a rich deep chocolate brown with a bit of ash (green base) which will fight those annoying reddish tones that sometimes show up, especially after lightening your natural brown.

H.Ash Brown– This a deep rich brown (deeper green base) that will really cool down those reds.'

Note: Please careful if you have any yellow blonde pieces or highlights as they will turn green with blue or green based colors. 

Chocolate Mauve - Is a great option to enhance your brunette hair with purple-red-rose  tones.

Chrome Chocolate – Is an excellent silvery chocolate that is really hot right now, takes that brown hair to an Ashy -Icy brown

Hanalei– is a wonderful color for the lighter brunettes (violet/blue base) that will fight gold/brass in brunettes.

                         

CG

Crib Colorist

8-15-2017

Become LLLEVEL Headed, Knowing the ''Level System of Hair Coloring" Can Prevent Disasters

August 19, 2017, 6:55 am

≫ Next: Balayage (hair painting) : a Look I Love, But a Technique I Can Do Without

≪ Previous: Brunette, Brunette . . .Our Scarlett Was Brunette . . . What Say You, Dear Rhett ? ?

$

0

0

Back to the Books
 If you plan on trying to learn the CRIB COLORIST method you must review the entire blog.
 Please, read through the entire Blog, take a week to do it - if it seems overwhelming or 'too much' ... it doesn't take that long and everyone I ask to do that - 'Thanks me' - when they are finished.... they really do! Absorb and learn it so you have the advantage/knowledge for the rest of your life.

BECOMING LLLLLEVEL HEADED


I want to go back and review some of the Level System. Of course in this small arena, I have not covered it all. I tried to focus on the important parts, but I realize there are additional areas I must cover so the education is more thorough.

What I'd like to do is to get everyone on Killerstrands talking in 'Levels and Tones', as a Sassoon Colorist that's how we roll. Everyone is known by their hair color level & tone, every single person has one, even if they have never colored their hair. So as you go through your day, as you stand in the line at the post office - start guessing everyone's Level and Tone - practice makes perfect

The first task in learning hair color theory is to understand the difference between LEVEL and TONE. These 2 characteristics of Color are the most important and vital to understanding the concept.

Level, I thought I felt confidant that most everyone understands this concept, it simply refers to the lightness or darkness of hair color be it natural or artificial............. but over the course of this last week........I am realizing there will always be brand new people showing up and my teaching will never be done.  If anyone out there is having a difficult time with the concept of "Level" I want you to post a comment at the end of this post OR email me so I know. Everyone here needs to be able to name every person in your life's Level/Tone of hair. Think about that. . can you?

 Everyone is one level between  LEVEL 1 & 12 .

The amount of Tones is a whole different story. Especially in 2017. Because now it is normal to have a Rose-Gold in your line and if you don't you better get back to the Lab and invent one ! Because that was the single most desired tone in Salons  in 2016 ! and I don't see it doing away anytime soon. I guess the confusing part comes from the fact that as soon as the major hair color manufacturers decide on a basic 8 Tones, one of the companies decides to add a new tone or two, for Pizzazz! As colorists we are never more thrilled when we hear of a new tone coming down the pike. They call that a Lab-Rat, and sadly I may fit well into that category -- what a loser.

Manufacturers Level Systems vary somewhat from one another. Some products have ten levels, some 11, some 12. Regardless of the variations the lowest number will be the darkest color in any given system - highest number the lightest color.

Levels are precise degrees of lightness standardized across the manufacturer's tonal groups. All colors of the same level will have the same degree of lightness or depth, whether natural (neutral), ash, gold, matte, Pearl, Brown-Red-Violet, or any other tone.
To illustrate this, visualize a tall building, black is the basement and white is the penthouse, graduating from dark to light each story a grade lighter than the one beneath it. 
That is the International Level System, with numbers identifying those grades of dark to light. 
If you wash this image with a hue, such as gold, then you have a tonal series. 
 Imagine a "black and White" photograph - in that you are only seeing 'Levels" of color. Before color in our TV's and in our photographs we only had this "tonal" look. Its taking one color and going from the dark to light in each.

TONE
Tone refers to the hue of a hair color, be it natural or artificial. The main tones, or hues, of hair coloring are natural, ash, beige, gold & red...although I like to add, matt, pearl, brown-red and a few others. 

Another point I know I didn't clarify was the labeling of hair color, so when you go to buy that first tube of color you won't be thoroughly confused by what's printed on the end of the box. Manufacturers usually indicate the tones of their colors with letters: 'A' for Ash ....'N' for Neutral and so on. Numbers are also used to designate 'tone', for instance, if ".1" means ASH , then a Level 6 ASH would be a 6.1. That's the method, my European based WELLA line uses and to make it easier on the end of the box it says : 6/01A, so you get both.

Any color can be described in level and tone. If the sky is blue and darkest blue almost navy along the horizon and then graduates up as you look into the sky. Those are also distinctions in "levels". The level system pertains specifically and only to hair coloring.
If you are having problem distinguishing between level and tone, give it some more time. It will come to you. Its just foreign lingo.

FYI: the painters use of these words are totally different than the hair colorists and should not be related -- each has different vernaculars, but it is still all COLOR THEORY !

Balayage (hair painting) : a Look I Love, But a Technique I Can Do Without

August 20, 2017, 6:09 pm

≫ Next: Dad's Love/Fight Their Daughters Hair - The Natural Way

≪ Previous: Become LLLEVEL Headed, Knowing the ''Level System of Hair Coloring" Can Prevent Disasters

$

0

0

The More You Know the Less You FEAR

This post always generates a lot of hair stylists tearing me apart & putting me down..........so in answer to that, I have filled in some areas and re-written this so as to address the concerns they keep bringing up. Last I checked we still lived in the USA and there is room for everyone:

> professional hair stylists

> crib colorists 

> that damn Boxed hair color

   Had 1 more sad story emailed to me about Balayage this week,  this is a topic I have been tap dancing around for the entire time the KS Blog has been in existence. I have been promising forever to address my opinion about the technique. So, while it is not at all what I was planning on writing today, sometimes adapting to my readers, is the smartest decision.

 I need to be clear on something.......its not the "look" of Balayage I don't like ...its the "application " people are trying. Of course there are some beautiful balayage heads of hair out there, and a lot of talented artists doing the "freehand technique'' - but that is not the norm. that I hear from . Many people end up here because of some hair disaster - so when you hear it as much as I do, you really wonder if this whole hair painting thing is worth the marketing ploy.

About 18-19 years ago {yep, that’s how old this technique is} I first got wind of BALAYAGE - ( which was not its name for about 5 years). I can still remember hearing about it, and thought, uh geez……one more “cowboy color” move, I never talked or thought about it again. Once a year – every year, some new “technique’ within the hair color world gets introduced and then proceeds to (almost) always fail. I'm not saying no new hair coloring techniques won't be successful.....but you have to remember that unless a new chemical has been introduced, millions have people have been working on this issue for over 100 years......many brilliant artists and cosmetic chemists have been working and playing on new techniques and art forms.

 This dinghy Balayage is like gum on my shoe ......it just won't go AWAY ! ! !  Everything about it makes absolutely no sense, although for the interest in the comment section, that shows me that many of you sure are intrigued by it....

Having wondered ‘where’ these quirky little processes  come from, makes me question - - the reason behind them. Within a Colorists world there is always a “new” technique around the corner..the industry of hair coloring was an 8 billion dollar sector of the market in 2016. That's right up there with the pentagon (j/k).   That new technique is almost always just a new name for something we already do, which means it is merely the result of the hair world’s > “Marketing-machine”.  In other words . . . the theory is, if a new technique is announced it will get more people into Salons, which is brilliant - do not get me wrong on that one.                          
Yep, that’s how the world of Color rolls! Why do you think they show pure white snowy blonds ( see my previous post) one month and raven dark haired vixens the next. As long as “change” is happening in hair color, then its a good thing for the “business” of hair color and the world of hair. If everyone were to remain a level 8 B ….year after year after year, what a boring ho-hum world it would be, and how hum drum it would be for business. Just like everything else in today’s world, Hair Color is first and foremost  - -  a business - -  and it needs rejuvenation and spark to stay interesting and provocative, just like any other.

I was trained at …. Vidal Sassoon. A school that has strict rules and regulations for extremely valid reasons. I admire their ways & means of teaching and continue to follow them all to this day. This entire BLOG is littered with both: KC-isms & Sassoon-isms… so if you want to learn the same, I would read and absorb……..read and absorb. 

Now, when any Colorist is preparing to color a hair models hair, the first step always is the “consultation”. To me there is no more important step. The reason so many Stylists/Colorists make mistakes, is because they don’t take the time necessary to properly analyze this step and look at their clients hair back story. It is crucial to a successful outcome, to fully

• analyze the hair’s characteristics,
• learn the previous color processes performed
• understand the “desired” look

Now, one of the biggest and most common mistakes one will see on blonds, is when the hair turns yellow/brass/orange/gold . I’ve tried many ways of explaining why that happens, we will try another one today. There is a misconception that ‘brass’ is a color and it can be removed, when nothing could be further from the truth. Its a bit of an ‘odd’ concept how the color Brass, or blorange, or Gold shows its ugly head in hair. But let me try  to explain how, where and why it comes from. I can’t tell you the amount of readers that have asked me if they could use the artificial hair color remover “VANISH” to remove the BRASS from their hair.’ 

Another KC-ism in Hair Color is

“ ALWAYS USE THE PROPER TOOL FOR THE JOB “

 

Using Vanish is the complete wrong tool, and it seems to be my issue in not teaching this concept properly….as to why some of you don’t understand why not....I would like to try to get this clarified in this post, if you don’t understand, PLEASE ask in the COMMENTS section below, so I can see what I am missing.

When you apply color to the hair you are adding color . Color + Color (=) makes more Color, so the hair has more pigment. If the color used is addition only, the hair will often (but not always) be darker.

 
When finally comprehending color theory, it can benefit much more than hair color, it can add to the Interior or Exterior Design of your Home, the Clothing you put together and wear, it can even benefit the Frosting or Decorations you make on a cake. Color Theory affects many different aspects of ones life, and once it sinks in,you will find yourself having “aha” moments that deal with color theory revelations randomly.I receive emails from new Crib Colorists all the time with various stories of how color theory has popped  into their everyday life. Remember ANY education, is good for you. 

For a balanced natural hair color: all 3 primaries must be present

An imbalance (lack of any of 3 primaries) of primaries leads to an imbalance of end result

Therefore if you are blond, with brassy tones, the method one would use to “COUNTER” the brassy tones is what?

If the hair color is brassy, that means the primary that is the strongest is the YELLOW.

{Primary colors are Red, Blue & Yellow}

So, if the YELLOW is predominant and is what is causing the hair to be an obnoxious brassy color

Use the rule, that if the color is objectionable, then play with the primary colors to solve the problem.Take the 2 other primary colors…..???? RED & BLUE, mix them together which makes PURPLE ( right?)

Add a PURPLE TONER to that brassy Blond and it will knock that brass right out of the hair .

Once you begin to lighten hair….warmth is released. The first pigment to be released during lightening is BLUE. If you start with the blackest most coarse hair and begin to lighten it with bleach, you immediately see a change.

Because BLUE is the first pigment to leave the hair, you would go very quickly into the RED Zone, which is also the most difficult zone to leave. However if you use a microscope to observe the same black hair being lightened, you would see a different dominance of pigment at each step

So, if you were to observe the amount of natural pigment remaining in the hair at each level under a microscope, you would see a dominance of blue pigment at LEVEL 1 – BLACK, Which makes sense because black is really the BLUEST BROWN.

• Level 2: very very dark brown, a dominance of blue/violet, which is still very dark but not black,prevails.
• Level 3 : violet dominates
• Level 4: violet/Red
• Level 5: Red
• Level 6: Red/Orange
• Level 7: Orange

**LEVEL 7, btw is the most difficult stage or level to get past  -  all the trouble with brassy colors in hair stems from this

• Level 8 : DURP Gold
• Level 9: Yellow
• Level 10: Very Pale Yellow

Now, that is an overview of where “brass” comes from and why it is so very difficult to get rid of. It is the most dominant color, it is the hardest color to counter, and the most impossible color to eliminate. There is no avoiding it, it is the most predominant color in everyone’s hair, no matter ‘what’ color the Virgin hair is.
Now to explain ‘why the Balyage technique makes no sense to “this Colorist” anyway!
The color hardest to get out of the hair………is Gold/Brass {Level 7 Brass/Gold is like Glue}
The way in which hair is lightened is by applying bleach to the hair. The bleach then “lifts” the  color OUT OF THE STRANDS….in an effort to lighten it into the desired blond shade of choice….. in other words its like  sucking the color out the strands of hair…..
(I want to put this in the most simplified terms possible)
Say the hair is BLACK………….and you DESIRE PLATINUM
The mixture of Bleach plus 40 VOLUME DEVELOPER  is applied to the black hair and the bleach begins to suck the color out of the hair…………..
The lightening train goes like this….color is drawn out of the hair strand in this method:

• BLACK - ->>> GOES TO
• DARKEST BROWN ----> > >TO
• DARK  BROWN  - - -> > >  GOES TO
• BROWN  - - -> > >  GOES TO
• LIGHT BROWN - - - -  GOES TO
• RED - - - > > >  GOES TO
• RED-ORANGE---->>> WHICH goes TO - - - >>>
• ORANGE- - - > > >  WHICH THEN GOES TO
• GOLD  - - -  - which goes to
• YELLOW - - - -> > > >
• PALE YELLOW BLOND
• PALE BLOND the desired colored when millions of women go looking for a Sun-Kissed Blond Look).

Bleach/ lightener doesn't keep its strength forever.........Really after 75 minutes ( or knowing how well your hair lifts ,which should always be calculated with a strand test prior to using this product) 
Now what happens to so very many blonds that have BRASS instead of BLOND….is the lightener ( of whichever type or kind has been used)has not been left on long enough, OR a strong enough developer was not used. Resulting in the hair lightening up but getting stuck at the “GOLD” Level…..see it up there? If the lightener would have stayed on longer or a stronger volume developer would have been used it would have been able to climb those remaining 2 levels to PALE YELLOW BLOND .

Now when this dippy Balayage method, paints the Lightener on the hair –  FreeHand as you see in this photo: 
Why would you paint the lightener on the hair free hand? I have no idea what that accomplishes?
I wonder if they think it looks more natural??  It won’t……I wonder if they think it’s faster ?? Most likely.. . . .
 Foils are difficult to learn - they had foiling BOOT camps at Sassoon because they not only wanted your foiling work to be 'pretty' looking - when the foils were on the head  ( which at first I thought was sooooooooo bizarre - who cares???) ..............then after I finally absorbed and understood the entire Sassoon world and education I finally GOT IT ! While the other people in the salon had screwy looking uneven and  horribly placed foils - yours would be perfect and orderly, it not only made your client feel special I cannot tell you how many clients switched to me to be their Colorist -- SIMPLY because of my foiling work. I OWE THAT ALL TO SASSOON ! ) Remember Foils keeping moisture in and on the strands. Moisture keeps the lightener active and working, the last thing you want is for it to dry out.........which is what will happen to it in the AIR .....during Balayage. Do you really think no one thought of this before?  That's the part that gets me. So 70 years ago when all of these techniques were first being formulated you don't think the first Colorists didn't think of painting the bleach on the hair FIRST????

OF COURSE THEY DID.

Because when you did that the client would repeatedly end up with brassy hair - then the hair needs to be "re-colored' and REPEATING lightening processes on top of each other is called OVER-LAPPING and check in my rules about how to achieve the most damage in lightening hair. OVER-LAPPING is at the top of the list. 

They figured out a long time ago if foils were used that the majority of people would have properly colored blonde hair. They did NOT make up the process just because they wanted to add a useless step to lightening hair. 

THAT JUST IS NOT HOW TOP COLORISTS ROLL !

I know this is a very controversial subject but I stick to my guns about how foiling is the proper method for achieving natural looking "off- scalp" streaks, wisps or ribbons or ropes or pieces or whatever you want to call little pieces of hair that are lightened lighter than the rest of the hair.
FOILS are hard to learn. Ask anyone who is an A List Colorist and if properly placed they can achieve the exact same look with less time and more control.



 Here is another photo of Balayage, which I would foil and would achieve this exact same look.



As a Colorist .......what you want when you color hair is “control”. 

Control and Timing so I know exactly what is going to happen and WHEN. If you are to paint lightener on the hair you are going to lose the body’s warmth that comes from using foils. Once the lightener is applied to the strand of hair then the foil is folded over that strand …. both the body and the foil create HEAT a very mild warmth which is actually just perfect -- it gently helps the lightening action along. if you don’t use foil, you lose that, which means you have a much greater risk of ending up in the BRASS RANGE. The dreaded BRASS – range......... its why we use foils. 
 Lightening hair without the use of foils is archaic and unnecessary. If anything, apply the foils with the lightener, as hair stylists you must learn how to check hair that has lightener on it, and KNOW WHAT STAGE IT IS, I mean it doesn’t take long…in about 2 months of practice you could be good at foils and should know what hair looks like when you scrape off the lightener from a clients foils….to be able to tell whether or not you should rinse a client now or in 20 minutes. Yes, its an  art, but dammit, get GOOD at that art….its why you went into this biz, don’t be a slacker.

I cannot even figure out what the purpose of Balayage is, to be perfectly frank.

 I need to be clear on something.......its not the "look" of Balayage I don't like ...its the "application form" people are trying. Of course there are some beautiful balayage heads of hair out there, and a lot of talented artists doing the "freehand technique'' - but that is not the norm. I hear from . Many people end up here because of some hair disaster - so when you hear it as much as I do, you really wonder if this whole hair painting thing is worth the marketing ploy.
With foils you can create just about any work of art you would like….. foils let Color 1 be on a certain portion of hair. . . . while allowing Colors 4-7 & 9 to NOT be other portions…. 

Using foils are the mark of a Great Colorist. Everything they claim Balayage can create we have been doing for years with foils. There is a certain strain of hairstylists that don’t use foils and the only reason I could possibly imagine for not using foils is laziness, they are untrained in the art, or...the clients hair lifts so quickly it may get damaged.  . Foils are used for the heat they retain – the art they allow to have and the mobility they impart when trying to display a rainbow of colors WITHOUT BRASS in the blond’s. 

I will have at least a half dozen people every week ask me what they can do to get the brass out…..or the ‘orange’ out…I ask how the Stylist colored their hair and the answer is ALWAYS BALAYAGE!!!!!! So, if you believe nothing else, believe that, or your own experience.
The only way to lighten hair with “control” over how light it does or does not get is with Bleach. So many are hesitant of the use of bleach, . As an experienced Colorist, bleach can be your best friend … there are just soooo many uses for it, but never ever use it without plenty of experience behind you. 

Balayage began in the country of France, which explains a lot (to me) . Balayage,  is a French term for hair painting. It is a freehand placement of highlights, without the use of foils, allows for a more natural color application that complements and contrasts in all the right places.THAT is what the textbooks say. I say, bring back the foils!

This is what Balyage looks like;



Think before you request this technique and I never EVER would suggest or imply that anyone should try to do this technique at home, this is where the talented hair colorist comes in and they come in with a BANG doing this right! Ask that Stylist if they also do foils. 
Remember foils give the colorist more control and get the hair PAST that dreaded ‘brass’ stage.
Something.................anyone Loves !

Dad's Love/Fight Their Daughters Hair - The Natural Way

August 24, 2017, 10:33 pm

≫ Next: GAME OF TONES Versus THRONES : Platinum Queen? Tinted Oil Bleach : Mandatory

≪ Previous: Balayage (hair painting) : a Look I Love, But a Technique I Can Do Without

$

0

0

I always write my own Posts and try to educate as many people across-the-board, but I am wanting to expand Killerstrands reach and point ourselves toward the Latino and African-American communities - both work here and it is simply not fair to not include them with specific Posts and Products designed for them, their hair and their problems.


Its an avenue I want to learn more about, as back in my Salon days I was known as the "QUEEN OF THE RELAXER" and I loved doing them, because when you perform the single hardest and most unique process -- SUCCESSFULLY - - you will never ever see a happier person. The first time they shower they simply do not believe their hair has remained straight afterwards.
  If you have been living under-a-rock and don't know what a Relaxer is, well it is a very strong/ incredibly long treatment that is used and has been used for many many years to chemically straighten (permanently) hair. It began in the Black community, but I used to do them on myself because of my wretched curly/frizzy red hair - so the range is vast. The problem with this procedure is, the person performing it better be a perfectionist because one wrong move and plop, the hair can be on the ground. I would never perform them on children or kids even though I was asked...Truly I love natural hair on everyone, but with my own being a nightmare I can certainly relate.

So a story from somewhere else that I cannot find ........popped up and I read it ........copy and pasted it and now cannot find it again..........but,I just thought it was the loveliest story, so I copy and pasted it here for you all to read. 

 

 

From Chance the Rapper to a zillion other boys the internet can't get enough of dads doing their daughter's hair. But these viral moments aren't just cute — they're an important moment for representation and encouraging positive paternal moments. That's part of the reason NFL wide receiver-turned-movie director Matthew Cherry, decided to create Hair Love, a Pixar-style animated short film about a Black father, Stephen, trying to do his daughter Zuri's hair.

Cherry, who has nearly 73,000 followers on Twitter, began dropping hints about the project on July 3 by sharing a black-and-white sketch of Zuri. On July 10, he launched his Kickstarter campaign to get the movie up and running. And today, he's already met $27,757 of his $75,000 goal (and counting). For what it's worth, Hair Love has some pretty impressive production credits. For example: Animator Frank Abney is currently working on Incredibles 2 and Peter Ramsey, who's an executive producer on the film, is the first Black director to direct a feature-length animated film, Rise of The Guardians.

Brag-able team aside, Cherry says that the significance of this film has a priceless takeaway. "I'm not a father yet, but I think you should respect women regardless of your connection to them," Cherry says. "So the importance of this is pretty obvious. Any time a father can be in his child's life, that's a beautiful thing."

Read on to fall in love with Hair Love even further.

Can you tell us what motivated you to create this film?
"I've had the idea for a couple of years now. It was sparked around the time that I saw Rihanna's movie Home. That was one of the first times, outside of characters in Princess and theFrog, that I saw a little Black girl as a main character in a 3D animated movie. I’ve always come across these videos — and maybe I have a little baby fever myself — because I'm always sharing cute videos of kids.

"This year, I really started seeing more people sharing videos of Black fathers doing stuff with their kids. I think a reason why all these Black father and daughter videos were hitting was because of what society has put out there. People think Black men aren't in their kids’ lives — so when people do see the videos, they look at these as an anomaly. On one hand, I'm happy seeing these videos, but on the other hand, it made me sad because I knew that a reason that these videos were going viral was because people didn't think that was normal. In the animation world, you don’t see a lot of representation of characters of color. They might fill a background role or sidekick, but you never really see a lot of lead characters of color.

"In the Black community, hair is a huge deal — it's a multi-billion dollar business and industry. I feel like there has been a huge natural hair movement that has taken off in the past few years, too. You want little girls to take pride in their natural hair, not feeling like they have to adhere to European standards of beauty. You have the lack of diversity in these animated films. Then there's the whole lack of representation of Black fathers. So it stems from those three different things."

Who’s the inspiration behind the natural hair vlogger in the film, Angela? Did you find yourself sucked into the world of vlogging while doing research?

"On my Tumblr page, I already followed lots of natural hair pages. Hair is something I've always been interested in. For men, back in the day, if you didn’t have waves, you were nappy. Now you see this whole new wave with sponge brushes — guys embracing their natural 'fro and growing their hair out more. In terms of the bloggers, I never really saw one depicted in the animated world before, so I thought it would be a cool thing to include.

"I also put myself in that position of a father. If I had to do my daughter's hair, what steps would I take? One of the first things I’d do is get into a YouTube tutorial and see what they do. The character Angela, being a natural hair vlogger, had to be as representative in the film as possible. I talked to [an] animator, and gave her some real specifics about the look. I wanted her hair to be big and a little darker, because I felt that was important."

Does Hair Love echo any of your own experiences? Or did you feel like you had to assimilate with a certain haircut at an early age?

"I think the hair situation hits everybody, both men and women. We all have hair journeys that we go through where people don't get it. They want to touch your 'fro and see if it's different. People are confused when you tell them that you cut your hair every couple weeks. There are a lot of microaggressions that tend to make a lot of people self-conscious. The coolest thing I've seen through this project is that people are able to relate to these images. They say, 'I remember when my dad did my hair and he messed it up,' or 'he did a really good job.' Most importantly, people are saying: 'Wow, I wish I had a character like this when I was growing up because it would have made me feel differently about my own hair.' You don't think about things like that, but when you're growing up and you don't see yourself represented — you think you're different."

Have you received any feedback from young fans?

"I've gotten several tweets from people saying that they've shown their kids pictures and images, and they're really excited and can't wait to see it. Even today, we're in the process of trying to collaborate with some of these Black girl doll companies, to see if we can get a character design. Her hair can be customized to where a little girl can play with it and style it, and have it be representative of what we really look like. We wanted to make sure that the hair was of various textures and very customizable. Dads and moms and kids can style it, and practice on it. I'm fairly confident that we’ll be able to get a doll made and include that in the Kickstarter, too."
 
Where do you hope this film will run?
"In a perfect world, I would love to treat it like an indie film and do the festival circuit. I would love if Disney, Pixar, or Sony animations saw it and would want to put it in one of their animated movies. Like maybe a short— that would be super ideal. If not, we'd still do the festival circuit, maybe Sundance in 2018. For me, the most important thing is that people see it. With short films, it's a little different than traditional movies."

 Have you received any feedback from young fans?
"I've gotten several tweets from people saying that they've shown their kids pictures and images, and they're really excited and can't wait to see it. Even today, we're in the process of trying to collaborate with some of these Black girl doll companies, to see if we can get a character design. Her hair can be customized to where a little girl can play with it and style it, and have it be representative of what we really look like. We wanted to make sure that the hair was of various textures and very customizable. Dads and moms and kids can style it, and practice on it. I'm fairly confident that we’ll be able to get a doll made and include that in the Kickstarter, too."

What message do you hope Hair Love will send?

"Even though the film features an African-American daughter and her dad, I think it's a universal story. Parents everywhere can relate to it in the same way. Kids of all ethnicity's  can see the humanity in this film. To me, it's an important story because representation matters.

"So many people have told me that they wish that they had a project like this when they were growing up, which could have helped them feel more confidence with their appearance and their natural hair.

"If you see something you can relate to with it, please support. That doesn't have to mean money. Even if you just share it, then someone else might donate, support, or share it. We're just excited about the project. I think the initial feedback has proven that we're ready to see more films that feature characters of color in the animation world."

Can you believe a football player who doesn't even have his own kids, is behind this, that in and of itself is remarkable  - he is one very centered human being!  Please donate on Kickstarter , even if it is only a little, every bit helps !

---

GAME OF TONES Versus THRONES : Platinum Queen? Tinted Oil Bleach : Mandatory

August 28, 2017, 11:23 pm

≫ Next: Number 1 Shampoo in the Land of Bubbles & Sulfate-Free

≪ Previous: Dad's Love/Fight Their Daughters Hair - The Natural Way

$

0

0

Platinum Hair is the Hair of the Gods

As the end of Game of Thrones drew to a close the requests for blonde's and blonding come floating in the email "in" box Most of the country. . . wanting a nice platinum blonde. I happen to think Game of THRONES turned into a wonderful story to watch. Its now a love story, but the author of the books already told us that now didn't he. I never knew, til Sunday! Now I want Platinum hair !

Daenerys

 Daernery's hair color...they call it silver on the show , it is merely platinum though, she does wear many different wigs so please don't be under the illusion that is her real hair.


 But we have a product that I have not talked about enough. I was telling a fan about it today as we discussed going blonde and my answer was the number one way to go blonde is our blue/violet tinted oil creamy bleach that we make I am most proud of 3 products we make here at killerstrands that you can get nowhere in the world but here.Blue/Violet tinted oil-Creamy bleach 

 

 Gleam and BLAST..........
I've tested this product on many levels of hair color and the amount of yellow and brass it gets rid of simply amazing. I am not exaggerating....... just having the bleach AND the developer tinted with these colors is truly amazing to me. I wish Colorists would try it just to see the difference it makes. It makes going blond 1 full Level easier, because the blue-violet gets in the strands and really stamps out the damn brass and gold so common when lifting hair lighter.

This technique is referred to as double process, which is deceiving and inappropriate in my book, but I suppose I cannot re-write History. The 1st process would be the bleaching, the 2nd the Toner.  . . .Toning is not a "process" its an application - well on 2nd thought it is a process...because anything you apply to the hair is a process.. But there you have the technical name of the process that you can ask for at any good Hair Salon . My suggestion is, if you are thinking of going platinum, go have a consultation first.  Any good Stylist should give out free consults in my book or charge and take it off the price of the appointment. Its expensive if done correctly ...in my book it should never be a rushed procedure taking time when doing major conversions to the hair make the hair healthier and stronger. Let the hair lighten slowly and evenly  by leaving the lightener on for minimum 65-75 minutes, removing it rinsing, and drying the hair and then re-applying . The trick is the re-application, don't waste time leaving the lightener on longer its just simply the wrong method.

A good colorist knows that at about 65-75 minutes the top strength of the bleach fades and slows to to a crawl. To get maximum and safe lift the true trick we all use is reapplying it and NOT using a dryer - EVER. Bleach is not supposed to have heat applied to it and I hear that so many people get stuck under a hair dryer while they wait for there stylist to free-up from the other person they started. DON'T LET THAT HAPPEN.
 
Going Platinum Blond is a statement and a mission . .  I have seen meager timid guys go from mice to men and shy submissive women turn out as dominating after this transformation and I am not exaggerating. Its why Colorists love what they do so much......a good one gives a person a new identity 9 times out of 10 and that is an amazing feeling. 

Its amazing what a hair color 

can do to a personality

When mixing Killerstrands Oil Bleach ... (found in Killerstrands Clinic) it may not seem like it but it is crucial that you mix in the order described.  The creme and oil should connect first. . .  mix well  . .followed by the addition of the Developer. If for some reason you forget and begin doing it the wrong way please stop and start over. I have tried it before and the results were NOT the same - so please remember that. You want the bleach to apply in a nice silky manner so it does not drip . . . nor is too dry - - so the moisture needs to be perfect. 

Following the enclosed personal directions from me......to a T....... will give you that

The usual method of application for a full bleach out is similar to the double application method for single process color. First apply 1 inch away from scalp, then, when the mid-shaft is nearly the desired stage of lightening, apply to the scalp area.

Now here is an alternative method  . . . which when going through my old notes from the Academy, I remembered. It was refreshing enough to read, and my next bleaching will be using this method.

First , apply the bleach. . .scalp to ends . . using the parting and sectioning I have pointed out in previous posts. When the scalp area is the desired stage of lightening . .rinse and shampoo. Dry the hair with a cool dryer. Now with this method you can see where exactly the hair needs its 2nd dose of bleach and you won't have any overlapping or over-bleaching of more vulnerable areas of the hair such as over-porous end or a fine hairline

There is no more meticulous application of product than that for on-the-scalp bleaching.  The rewards for precision are even bleaching, even toning, and hair that doesn't break. Begin the application in the darkest or coarsest area of the hair. Take fine sections with your TAIL COMB. ..thin enough to see through. With re-touches, you MUST be careful of overlapping - - and its easier to just lay a line of bleach at the scalp, then lay the next section against it, rather than smearing the bleach in with fingers.

If you are lifting past yellow be patient. . .GOLD IS ALWAYS the toughest pigment color to eliminate. It will probably take longer to go from yellow to pale yellow than it took bring the natural base to yellow


With double process this is important: When you rinse the bleach - -  be gentle and very thorough.Lukewarm water most efficiently rinses the thick oil bleach . . .followed by a very gentle SLS-FREE Shampoo . .  another rinse and then the final smothering in our Killerstrands INTENSIVE, which will pH balance your hair and stop & lock-in the color . This will completely stop any bleach from continuing to work, HOORAY!  Rinse well and towel dry the hair gently. Leaving INTENSIVE on for 30-45 minutes is always what I end up doing but it is totally optional.  INTENSIVE is a porosity treatment and there is nothing better  for lightened hair than porosity treatment. 






TONER TIME
Check your Toners Directions  most of them can be applied to damp hair or dry hair.  I would truly consider using Boost & Burst if you want or need any toning............why? . Toners are many times an oxidative tint (need a developer) Many of the Professional hair color lines including Wella have enlisted specific colors on their chart to be made into Toners...although using a TONER made just for Toning, will have less ammonia, a lower pH, and in general will be gentler to both head and scalp. Toners only need a very low volume of developer. 

Purposes of toners are to conceal or beautify underlying warmth, depositing the desired hue and evening-out small defects in the bleach-out.I would truly consider using Boost & Burst if you want or need any toning............why? They are not oxidative - they are Semi-permanent - which means they do not use a developer but work just as well on platinum hair, a nice one to start out with is No-MO-Brass or PERP or Violet Pilot.........let your hair calm down and rest after it has been lightened and it will stay healthy and on your head.

 How the toner takes depends on the porosity of the hair . . . and guess what helps the porosity become even after all the up and downs of chemical services? ?  INTENSIVE followed by an overnight conditioning with THRIVEN rinse in cool water in the morning for 8-10 minutes and you will be one very happy Targaryn - I mean Platinum-head .......then go looking for your own Jon Snow.The looks you will get will set you free!

Number 1 Shampoo in the Land of Bubbles & Sulfate-Free

August 31, 2017, 4:00 am

≫ Next: No New Color from Old Hair Color --- or, Can I Save Leftover Hair Color

≪ Previous: GAME OF TONES Versus THRONES : Platinum Queen? Tinted Oil Bleach : Mandatory

$

0

0

I would imagine most consumers think there are constant changes going on in shampoos, from all the wacky commercials on the tube. Frankly, within the chemistry make-up and formulation ends they have not changed that much in the last 30 years...in my eyes, that is not a good thing. About a month ago I made a few calls to some of the major shampoo manufacturers in the USA to see what they had to say about the biggest changes  within their up coming shampoo releases.

This was the best news I have heard in a very very long time. They all said the same thing: "Sulfate-Free" is their number 1 Red Flag. Which has been a knife in my side now for at least 4 years . . . .

So rejoice . . they have finally heard the complaints and bitching I and many of my stylist compadres have unleashed on the world! I'm not going to complain about the time it took . . . at least "it took". That is a very good thing.

I cannot completely prove that SLS or Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is a 100% cause of all the hair loss and hair thinning in women of late....because I still feel from all my research that it is because of the synergistic effect of any one of, or combination of ... of the 10 steps of 10,000 HEADS. 

 






















But when you open the top of a simple small jar of SLS and the inside of your nose,eyes and lungs BURN  from 1 tiny inhale ( which is what I did !) .....SOMETHING IS DRASTICALLY WRONG ... who in their right mind would put that on the hair and hair follicles...??? wow that subject infuriates me...and always will. Stay away from SLS, become accustom to reading labels please....just like you do for your food. You have to learn to protect yourself...there are so many millions of products on the market now that it is not even realistic to think that our government could keep control over that entire industry. 
We can't even keep Terrorists out of the country that are trying to kill us with guns and 747 Airplanes !

No New Color from Old Hair Color --- or, Can I Save Leftover Hair Color

September 22, 2017, 3:00 am

≫ Next: How Killerstrands Began & Welcome to Our New APP (15% OFF- entire order - only If you shop On APP)

≪ Previous: Number 1 Shampoo in the Land of Bubbles & Sulfate-Free

$

0

0

m

Had a couple questions lately about the idea of saving hair color once its mixed - or in other words: can i save the "leftovers'' ? !

Now, I completely understand wanting to save hair color, because it's pricey and so many times you end up mixing too much, but that concept absolutely is 100% wrong and please... never ever save opened /mixed hair color (color with developer added), please.

 I have explained this reasoning in one of the many hundreds of Posts written in this Blog . . . but am happy to revisit now (which is why I encourage everyone to read Blog -- Cover to cover) There are a zillion and 1 posts with pearls of wisdom throughout, solving little hair issues, along the way it connects with almost everyone for one reason or another. Courtney who now works here at Killerstrands & has been a Crib Colorist for a couple years, is surprisingly on-point about almost every subject I ask her about. So you too can be like her and have the knowledge that i possess, dropped on your brain - - -  it will help you for a lifetime. I feel most people care about their hair more than their spouse, children or siblings ! I'm kidding of course. . . because when I took a poll once on our men's BLOG (Razerburn- closed now) over 90% of men....... when asked " what physical part of a female do you love the most? Answered : their HAIR ! Can you believe that?

The reason?  :

 is basically rooted in a whole lot of Scientific jargon, but to make it short.........it 100% does NOT work. When coloring hair, you notice that in pro hair color... the tubes themselves are hermetically sealed. Which means it is sealed so tightly absolutely zero oxygen can enter. 

In order to simply pour it to bowl, you must be pretty strong just to roll down the tube, which is why i suggest a tube Keyto make life easier and mainly to get every last drop, its important ...Therefore, use a lethal pointed top and poke a hole in it to open up. It is super tightly sealed for a purpose, if it wasn't it would immediately oxidize and be unusable. Even at the brand new stage "out-of-its-shell" it can oxidize, imagine how fast it oxidizes and becomes unusable once you add the developer. 

When I color very long or very thick/curly hair, I mix up maybe 3-4 batches of hair color while going along . . . you simply add the developer right before you are going to use it --- ALWAYS mixing the hair colors together FIRST, prior to adding developer! You want a fresh batch of color every so-often if you have one of those types of hair.

Hair color oxidizes, which basically means when it hits the oxygen one molecule runs off  and then it will slowly - - pretty much dies off. So,basically, it no longer has the "power" it needs to color the hair. I know many of you do not like to hear this but: the way hair color works, is the result of various chemical reactions which make the hair color 'long-lasting'. But, don't you worry your little heads about those words..... because baking and cooking are just a giant conundrum of chemical reactions and you are putting that IN your body!

Remember : My mission in life currently is to get every last one of you trained properly in hair health & hair coloring techniques. Therefore, if needed or wanted, you can either take care of your own color in a jam, OR you can take over it for fun/hobby. For some reason this past 2 weeks has been riddled with calls inquiring about the need to be able to take care of their own color with Professional results.1/2 were because of health issues by family members and the other half ? desire to join our own Crib Colorist Militia: whose goal it is to become talented home hair colorists (Crib Colorists) and to take up a new hobby!

                                                                       

How Killerstrands Began & Welcome to Our New APP (15% OFF- entire order - only If you shop On APP)

October 3, 2017, 7:56 pm

≫ Next: You Get What You Pay For, Buyer Beware!

≪ Previous: No New Color from Old Hair Color --- or, Can I Save Leftover Hair Color

$

0

0

Many years ago KC was completely frustrated in the fact that she could never find a conditioner that actually worked. They say they'll work - they spout all this BS language that makes you think you better try this one or that brand. Finally after spending from $5.00 to $500.00 ( yes there is a $500.00 hair conditioner) and was never close to being satisfied.  After being diagnosed, she decided to study Cosmetic chemistry on the web to keep her mind busy. 

So she set out to figure out how & why these products work --- and then maybe figure out WHY they don't work. Hell, our scientists can fly to the Moon and back, but they can't even truly condition & de-tangle our hair,  she just did not get it !


 So what began as a one month project - - turned into 2 years of deep intense study and camaraderie with a small unique set of people in the early days of the Internet and a fantastic Chemist, who actually developed what we all know as MASCARA for MAX FACTOR many years prior ! !  He was open and willing to teach us all anything and everything he knew, which was one of my earliest mentors & models for how I was going to run my Blog.  

In the Hair Industry you are taught to keep your knowledge and tricks in hair color formulating -- TO - YOUR - SELF !!!! That was your bread & Butter and you should NOT give it away ! ! ! 

 But, the more she watched him teach and educate this small group of dedicated people through his BLOG.......the more I learned there really was more fun and more knowledge learned when everyone OPENED UP - SHARED WHAT THEY KNEW. . . or didn't know (tricks + education AND ALL!  !) and talked to each other. That was when she decided to just "GIVE BACK TO EVERYONE SHE NEVER KNEW AND NEVER WOULD KNOW -- Just for the HELL OF IT anbd to enlighten the people who had no access to talented Colorists/Stylists.

 NO, its not solving Cancer
but its what SHE KNEW and it whats a lot of people on earth struggle with and are very consumed with.................SOOOOOOOOO  -  she could Teach. .....and plenty of people needed the Education.  That is how our pride and joy conditioners began and evolved. This site was here for you! First there is 

• THRIVEN - DEEP Overnight Conditioner - Sleep in it 

• INTENSIVE- pH & porosity equalizers - soothes scalp, balances pH and helps lock in hair color immediately after using, an all around miracle, by many accounts.
  
  
  
• GLEAM - A bottle full of the richest most vitamin-mineral& amino acid packed bottle of OILS that exists on planet earth.Price any product with the same ingredients....???? Its well over $200.00 for an even smaller bottle than the 2 ounce ! The ingresient that truly HEALS hair ..are LIPIDS, lipids are oils. 
•  
  One of the primary causes of dry hair is the destruction of its hydro-lipid layer through everyday grooming practices. . . You just don't know it ! With proper care this part of the hair can be replenished and fixed. Essential fatty acids play a primary role in the structure of the hydro-lipid layer and are an important part of GLEAM.
  

  What is the Hydro-Lipid Layer?

  The hydro-lipid layer is composed of hydro (water) and lipids (fats) which form a thin emulsion that coats the hair and skin of mammals to keep both hydrated and in optimum condition. It is infused into the keratin of the hair’s cuticle as it’s formed in the follicle and the outer surface is continuously replenished via secretions from the sebaceous glands. This delicate barrier is comprised of essential fatty acids, ceramides, tryglicerides, cholesterol and water. Essential fatty acids comprise a greater part of the lipid layer and contribute to hair’s elasticity and aid ceramides in keeping the cuticle scales attached to the hair strand.
  

  What Happens When the Hydro-Lipid Layer is Lost?

  The hydro-lipid layer provides two primary functions; hydration and protection (which shows in the 'shine' and condition of the hair. It’s on the outside of the hair shaft forming a film, and it’s also present within the cuticle layer. It is a permeable lining that allows for the uptake of water but it also is occlusive enough to slow the evaporation of moisture from the shaft. Lubrication is another function of this layer which prevents cuticles from lifting or snagging on other surrounding hair strands.  
  When the hydro-lipid-layer is damaged, the hair loses a vital source of moisture, the cuticle scales are exposed to mechanical damage and other trajedies, and the vital cement that holds cuticles in place is compromised. 
  
   The following loss and damage of the cuticle layer leaves hair porous, rough, zero gloss or elasticity and vulnerable to breakage.
  

  Common Causes of Lipid Depletion

   Lipid Depletion can be accelerated by your grooming activities that many of you consider to be a normal part of their routine. Shampoos that contain strong sulfates and a high pH are at the top of the list of culprits in the destruction of the lipid coating. 
  
  I've tried for 20 years to get everyone off of sulfates, I feel they should be banned.
  , sulfates function by rendering oil water miscible so that it can be removed from the hair and scalp. A shampoo that is intended to be mild, gentle or moisturizing will still operate this way but will not strip the hair and scalp bare of all its essential fats. Without proper protection, chemical treatments like hair coloring/ relaxers can damage or completely dissolve lipids from the hair shaft. One of the reasons I really try to push everyone to apply GLEAM prior to the actual hair coloring process - after continuous use, you will begin to notice a distinct difference. 
  Not using an oil like GLEAM opens the hair up to vital lipids being removed from the surface of the cuticle layer as well as from in between the cuticle scales, weakening the natural cement that holds them to the hair shaft. The constant application of high heat to the hair is also a common cause of damage to the hair’s protective barrier. again - applying GLEAM to the hair prior to drying is just one more way to keep your hairs health & shine intact !
  

  Care and Maintenance of the Hydro-Lipid Layer

  The easiest way to maintain this vital portion of the hair is to minimize or eliminate hair styling practices that place it in jeopardy. If you routinely undertake actions that compromise the lipids in your hair, be certain to use Gleam + Thriven + INTENSIVE that contain essential fatty acid-rich ingredients that restore and replenish the hydro-lipid layer’s integrity.
  
  
• THRIVEN-Lite - Truly a secret weapon, works excellent as a daily conditioner, solves frizz, hair loss (read the reviews)+ pH neutralizer - truly an ALL-IN-ONE-MAGICAL SOLUTION to Jacked-up hair!
    
• Use Thriven :after hair coloring - color at end of day apply and sleep, for scalp issues (overnight application really helps scalp as well) !
  after lightening/bleaching FOR SURE!
  after Vanishing
•  

THRIVE’N is Killerstrands’ own intensive - DEEP hair conditioner - can be worn overnight for extreme repair to the hair, use the terry cloth cap we have brought in. Information on the Secret Supplement (SS) and where to purchase it is included with every purchase. This remarkable overnight deep conditioner that works in tandem & in conjunction with the Secret Supplement has truly created more miracles in women's hair for hair thinning, loss and damage than I have encountered in the upper echelons of hair care, in the past 20 year

The Secret Supplement is something not one person in 8 years has ever guessed, and it is imperative to use for the 'magic' to happen . It is sold anywhere their are hospitals as it is a medicinal supplement that friends of the family ( all professional athletes) who are Olympic athletes friends  - use to battle jet lag. 
Be sure to get yourself a terry-cloth lines shower/sleeping Cap - makes 'overnight' treatments a breeze.

Thriven was developed to help with female hair loss and thinning issues, whether the result of chemical over-processing , physical trauma, poor health, sulfate shampoos, age or hormones, over-use of heated tools especially Flat Ironsw
10,000 Heads is the 14-Step Protocol that was developed and tested over the course of 12 years and 10,000 heads of hair that KC worked on.
The success rate of 10,000 Heads is a whopping 86-89% of all users! These are quoted as being happy or thrilled with their hair transformation following the 90-day Trial period.

 Instructions:
Apply Thriven (at least) 1-2 times a week using the “slumber” method. Many do it on a Saturday or Sunday as well I’ve been hearing.
In early evening: shampoo hair. Towel Dry, then apply Thriven. Shoot with hair dryer periodically in the evening if it bothers you to sleep with a wet head. The heat from dryer increases how much THRIVEN penetrates the hair strand. Sleep with product in your hair, in morning rinse out 2-3 minutes longer than normal, finish off with a cool rinse.
Style and Smile!
Remember…………
These 2 components are mandatory for the 10,000HEADS System to work its true miracles. If you do not follow BOTH parts of this step you will not have the “magic” I speak about....
Of course the conditioner works complete miracles, but if you use both you will be writing me an email . . .  I never hear enough of those !

INTENSIVE

pH and porosity neutralizer - Smooths and detangles just about any kind of hair that is damaged, overworked, over-processed and tangles like no other - this product is guaranteed to soothes what ails your hair. Alternates WITHIN our Top 5 BEST Sellers for many years!

THRIVEN -LITE

This is a different version of our favorite conditioner THRIVEN, it is a lighter consistency and works wonderfully for a daily conditioner. I tried it on a couple suggestions from customers and it has flown off the shelves ever since!
This is our number 1 SECRET WEAPON for jacked up damaged hair

Be SURE TO Use our NEW APP
For now it is only in APPLE's APP store ( android version coming soon)....Just SEARCH: Killerstrands

Receive 15%OFF your entire order 
ONLY if you shop on the APP 

which is where you will find the Code you need for the discount !
through October 10,2017 

KC

You Get What You Pay For, Buyer Beware!

October 7, 2017, 5:25 pm

≫ Next: A Few of my Favorite Things… From a Crib Colorist

≪ Previous: How Killerstrands Began & Welcome to Our New APP (15% OFF- entire order - only If you shop On APP)

$

0

0

Do you know what is in your hair?   
What products are you using on a daily, weekly or even monthly basis?  

I ask these questions because many of us spend a good amount of money on quality hair color or services offered at the salon, but then turn around and use shampoos, conditioners, deep conditioning treatments and styling products that are sub-par at best. 

So… a long time ago, back in my early 20’s, when I had very little to almost no financial obligations, I spent tons of money by going to the salon every Saturday morning. My hair was in great condition! Why was it in great condition? Well, it had very much to do with the quality of products used and offered by that particular the salon. But later on when I was out on my own, my trips to the salon became less frequent.  In between visits, I would style my own hair using lower quality hair products and would think nothing of it. 

On this one occasion, I purchased a popular name brand shampoo and conditioner that you can find at just about any drugstore and I was horrified by the results. The products left a residue in my hair that took forever to wash out… it felt like an eternity, I just couldn't rinse it out.  At my next appointment, I happened to mention it to my hair stylist, and do you want to know what her response was? Of course you do. She simply said, “You get what you pay for.” Makes total sense, right?

Now, I’m not going to name any names, but the shampoo and conditioner that I purchased wasn’t the cheapest brand on the market, but it wasn't exactly professional. 

Just recently, I did a little research on the product and low and behold, the second and third ingredient listed on the back of the shampoo bottle are sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate. I suspect that these were the same ingredients used back when I purchased them. As a general rule, you should run far away from a product if these ingredients are in your products, especially if they are listed towards the beginning. Sulfates strip your hair of lipids (oils) the backbone of a great hair strand, which may be the reason your hair feels, “squeaky clean” or dried out. They are also known to be a skin irritant and can also be found in some popular body washes.

I know you are probably asking, “What do I do?” My suggestion is to start reading and understanding labels and the importance of the ingredients contained within the product.

 This blog is a great place to begin learning all of the dos and don’ts .  If you are paying a generous amount of money for professional quality color or salon services, please don’t ruin it with low-end "product" crap.  Also, keep in mind that every salon doesn’t use or sell you the “best” products for your hair or even hair type. Some stylists even receive commissions on products that they recommend and sell to their clients. There are very few salons in the area where I live that are completely sulfate free. The last thing that you want to do is spend all that money on new color and watch it as it washes out down the drain. Sulfates will do exactly that and remember there is the whole DD or as KC calls it Delayed Damage. You can walk out of a Salon feeling like a million bucks, but if a week or 2 later something seems amiss . . . I would definitely relate it to that Salon visit.  Please also be aware that some salon quality or professional brands contain sulfates, so read your labels! REQUEST Sulfate-free shampoo only, tell them you have an allergy if your favorite stylist isn't all the way on the same page as you. Make-up something.....anything - - - so you keep the general direction of your hair's health going in a positive one.

I want every crib colorist and blog reader to be informed on the products they are using on their hair. Remember, damage is much faster to do… than undo.

Be good to your hair and it will be good to you!

Crib Colorist & Killerstrands Staff member

CG