I receive a tremendous amount of emails with many of you being worried over "trying to calculate your VIRGIN Level color" . . . especially if you have gray mixed in with your virgin color. It should not be anything that worries you. If you have a pretty recent computer & monitor or I-pad, the colors you see on this Post will be very close to what they are in person. If you have salt & pepper hair many times you may need a friends (or husbands) help so they can look at your hair on the back ... underneath... for an accurate Level. But truly, if there is that much gray then just do your best using the last Level you remember it being. Having that much gray should be a very important part of coming up with the formula.

Understandingg the LEVEL SYSTEM of HAIR COLOR

It involves more flexibility, so you are not given a set bottle of hair color with a set bottle of peroxide ( that come in those damn Kits).

The Most Accurate Level Chart Level 1 thru 10 ... I have online

LEVEL is the unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color; it is sometimes referred to as value or depth. Colorists use the LEVEL SYSTEM to analyze the lightness or darkness of a hair color

(see above).

Hair color levels are arranged on a scale of 1 to 12, with 1 being the darkest and 12 being the lightest ( not too long ago it was 1-10 some new HIGH LIFT Blonde's added 2 more light levels). The names for the natural hair color levels may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer but they each use this chart as the base.What I want you to learn here is simple....try to get very comfortable with these Levels and especially:

KNOW YOUR OWN VIRGIN LEVEL OF COLOR (without color on it) we sell a great little chart that I made and laminated so you could use it for years. This is an important piece of info and will be important for the rest of your life (even though it will change as you turn grey!)

If you are a redhead (as am I) its a tiny bit more complicated, you still use the same chart to figure it out, you would just draw your finger across the chart to the different "hues" it goes from Gold/Red to Red to Red/Gold to Red/Violet and keeps going as well.
For example:
KC = NATURAL LEVEL COLOR: I am a Level 8/RG
which means my virgin hair is a LEVEL 8 and my tonal categories are: Gold/Red (or Light Copper). Knowing that piece of info helps me be able to figure out more accurately what to use to color my hair with success.

You will impress the Hell out of your Hair stylist as well, if you go into your next appointment spouting off the "levels" - they will be very impressed. I have run into many a Hair Stylist that still have not memorized them (but they should).

Using and knowing this chart really well, is what you need to learn in order for you to become a good CRIB COLORIST.

What we have today is: the newest Hair color trends & styles that I have chosen from you to become inspired by......

So what I have now is a string of photos of hair colors and styles that I feel should influence your next years hair styles & cuts & colors......

SILVER HAIR is a very hot color currently!

Metallics!

Check-Out Killerstrands own, Icey Mint-Green
BURST & BOOST
color enhanced sulfate-free Shampoo & Conditioner

LOVE THE LAVENDER SLICES through a brunette and platinum head of hair

Add caption

Killer Chemist

I purchased a mannequin a few months back, because I wanted to show you how everyone can achieve blond hair WITHOUT a trace of brass or BLORANGE and the hair remains on the head and is healthy - beautiful and shiny. There simply is no reason for any magic potion to add to hair color, IF.............IT....................IS..................FORMULATED..................AND
..............APPLIED................CORRECTLY! ! ! ! !

I took photos of every single stage. Now a human head of hair is 100 times stronger than a doll made in china. This is Zoe, and Zoe has REAL VIRGIN HUMAN HAIR in a Level 6. It's truly between a 5.5 and a Level 6...........which we are going to bleach white. Or the proper terminology is: we will perform a BLEACH & TONE on her.................

So we begin by applying the Cream Lightener and 40Volume Violet Developer and I apply it ''in foils" for speed, as this project was going to take forever as it is. YOU WOULD NOT APPLY IT IN FOILS - EVER, nor would you use 40 volume - again I did that for speed and using 20 volume is the proper way to go - - ALWAYS! ! !. There is no need for a mad rush, but I wanted to show you with just cream lightener and Violet developer what happens to true - virgin - Level 6 hair.

Now here is what it looks like after 1 application - brassy and this is where most people stop. They are afraid if they continue it will begin to break off and you will have nothing left. If your hair is damaged is a whole other cup of tea. This hair was in average condition. It was not shiny, or soft, but the cream lightener gave those 2 properties to otherwise boring dull hair in my opinion!

Now, after the first bleaching, see the hairs that shed? On the comb up above? That is completely normal which is why I took the photo. Do NOT panic. Why does that happen?

Every single day we shed between 150 and 200 hairs per day.........EVERY-SINGLE-DAY ! ! !

So the shedding comes from the fact that by applying the bleach you have accelerated the growth of the hair on your head and those hairs are simply the hairs you would have shed over the next couple days. They came out all at once instead of a little at a time. You can look further down and see how much hairs are lost after bleaching #3!

These photos are after the bleaching and me applying INTENSIVE, which yes, I even did to a fake dolls hair because I know how much of a difference this stuff makes, and how important it is to the process!

INTENSIVE returns the hair's pH to normal, which also eliminates any trace of chemical's and locks in the color. The product was a pleasant and successful accident and everyone LOVES IT !

I decided to leave the side piece on the bottom one bleach BEHIND the rest of the hair for comparison for everyone to see.

See photo # 14, that is the piece that is one bleach behind the piece on top. I bleached the top piece 3 complete times, in retrospect, I probably should have only bleached it twice....but I wanted to show you that even on a dead doll which is much harder to work on than a real person's hair ( because it doesn't react exactly the same to the products - not nearly as easy).

#15 is an application of THRIVEN - yep left it on a doll-head overnight with a cap on it !! Nutty aren't I ? ?

Now, check to the right. . . . see the beautiful results?

You can do this too #16 is the hair right after rinsing Thriven out with ZERO Toner on it !

See in photo # 17 the front piece has been bleached and rinse/INTENSIVE/THRIVEN.......... 3 times and the piece underneath has only been done twice! See, in # 18 the difference, you are constantly battling that brass. It just makes life beautiful and easy if you bleach till the color of frozen butter, I call it. See the difference?

Photo #21 is the brush after the 3rd time and how much hair came out ( remember its a doll!) and how little I did not panic! Hair Loss is normal when going blonde. WHY? Going Blonde accelerates the natural growth pattern of your head of a hair. You will not lose this much but just do not panic, its normal and yes this is a tiny bit heavy.....

Always follow a bleaching with INTENSIVE!

ALWAYS FOLLOW BLEACHING with THRIVEN for strength.....we have some brand new conditioners coming next week.

So the result looks like this below......this is 3 bleachings with OIL BLEACH - look at the condition of the hair, no breakage and I'm telling you the condition of the hair is better than when we started.

NO OLAPLEX - - - JUST THRIVEN

So there she is the snow white beauty, I just love platinum hair. It was the first major project I did many years ago and since that very first day I have loved it the absolute most. It is a very warm feeling of being a true artist within the world of hair color. Because you have taken dark and turned it to white, which as we all know............is not an easy road to hoe!

Then I took Icey Mint Green BURST ( the conditioner) poured some in a bowl and began my next little art project. I could have made it all mint green but I decided to give Zoe some Mint Green Highlights!

You just take the end of tail comb (#28 - every Colorists best friend) and weave some little strips of hair, use a foil apply the ICEY MINT GREEN BURST conditioner with a tint brush as if it was a hair color. Close the foils up. Let them process for 30-40 minutes. When rinsing you want to do it in the sink and be very very careful not to let the green rinse out on top of the very white hair, for fear of staining it!

Its a bit difficult to see, but the Mint Green was just gorge .. . . .I love the color. Plus you can layer the color and make it darker....

Here we go with Angel.Rose.Angel - basically a rosey Pink. You purchase BURST ( the color tinted conditioner) - but you treat it as though it is a hair color..........by using foils.....or only applying BURST to the tips.....for that look!

Now see the section in photo #40 underneath that is only lightened 2 times as opposed to the braid, or top part which was lightened 3 times ! See the difference??

Now to completely remove the color, you are required to email our inquiry email, it takes great care and careful measuring to do it the proper way.

Its called a SOAP CAP, and when I talked about this 8 years ago quite a few of you ruined your hair. I have a strict policy with myself...
Over 5000 people read this Blog every single day, if just one of you reports disaster with something I have taught you............I remove it from the site and give it up to, ''it just needs more intense training to educate the public on this particular technique''...

but am going to give you the proper recipe for a BLEACH CAP, because you can now GOOGLE a BLEACH CAP , AND THEY HAVE IT WRONG.

SO .........LETS SAY............YOU ARE DONE WITH THE PINK YOU WANT TO WIPE THE PINK OUT GENTLY AND START OVER WITH PLATINUM HAIR

The recipe for a SOAP CAP :

Shampoo Train the hair 2X minimum
then
mix:
1/2 teaspoon cream lightener (you can purchase the Ribbons of light kit)
1 Tablespoon 20Volume Developer
+ 2 Tablespoons Shampoo ( with sulfates!)
mix all 3 items well and
apply to wet hair that has been shampooed,
this mixtures will remove All BURST/ BOOST
and or most Semi-Permanent Hair Colors

Rinse WELL....................apply INTENSIVE

.....................................Apply THRIVEN, then rinse

here is the last application we went with straight blue on the entire blond section and the hair is till healthy, when its not even on a real person ! ! !

You - TOO! ! Can accomplish this

When having platinum hair it is extremely important to not only keep it well conditioned, but also have at least a 1/4"- 1/2" trim every 6-7 weeks is very important as well !

Any Questions?

They are showing this photo on the Wella professional page as the newest color for Spring......

you like?

To keep up on what is coming up and what is new and cool, I watch the European markets for what is coming down the pipeline as far hair and hair color. I have been creating pastels from hair color my entire career but to finally have the actual product here, I am just thrilled to no end. I know this won't be a lot of yours "thing" .....BUT, think of this.. . . .

Do you have some Blonde pieces, chunks, ribbons, slices with Ash brown hair or any of the many techniques going on now-a-days? Consider applying on top of the blonde pieces or having your Colorist apply.......... some mint green over the blonde and by the next time you go in for a Re-touch the mint green will be washed out. USE the pastels as an accessory which is what they are designed for. For Fun, to be used as an accessory to your clothes and outfit for a few weeks.. I have Copper hair and I plan on applying some of the pink to some of my blonde slices and I'm old ! I think it will be cool for a few weeks and I don't really care what anyone thinks.

In conjunction the FREELIGHTS line has come out, which is merely a white bleach to be used for Balayage .... a technique I don't find much use for but a lot of Colorists do. I was highly trained in foils and can do anything in foils they can do Freehand but we carry the Balayage Painting paddle so if that is your cup of tea you are welcome to the products you need to perform it with. The reason I like foils? I was trained on them and they do generate warmth and natural warmth like that helps the color develop better than when just hanging out in the air. (My personal sentiments are going to cause a giant hub-bub in the Comments section, but please just relax everyone!) I get so much flak for my feelings in this area, I actually took a Post down I was so tired of responding to -- from the people that feel the opposite.

When it comes down to it....it really is:.."different strokes for different folks" its not a competition, which is why I have ALWAYS sold Balayage paddles - 2 of them even - you can't find these anywhere else, so relax !

But Anyway lets look at what Wella is calling Color Touch INSTAMATICS

Create natural-looking highlights with Wella's new foil-free Blondor Freelights.

Use it for Ombre or Balayage hair

As you can see by these photos 3 colors have been weaved through the blonde hair, see how beautiful it looks?

Pink

Mauve + Amethyst

Now here are the 6 colors:

Ocean Storm

Muted Mauve

Pink Dream

Smokey Amethyst

Jaded Mint

Clear Dust

These are Color Touch Colors so you would be using 6 & 13 Volume Developer and processing for 35-45 minutes. They quote 25 minutes as they do with all Color Touch colors but I have always found processing 40-50 minutes makes the color last longer

Here are the 2 balayage spatula's

you apply the spatula underneath the hair, then use the tint brush and paint on lightener in little strips that look like this:

that work something like above, again...my choice is foils but I am going to try this for fun next time the chance arises itself !

We have a kit that has a complete photo tutorial that shows you how to do this with foils. I call it the Ribbons of light Kit or the Victoria's Secret model hair !!!! ha ha

Once you lighten the little strips to blond, you then can apply any of the new and very cool Instamatics by Wella 's Color Touch line.

The hair above has slices of blonde first then Pink Dream and Mauve applied to them, see how subtle it can be, I just think it is beautiful, how about you?

Some readers continue to not understand an important concept in hair color and don't fret, I

remember to this day how long it took me to have the light bulb turn on and for me to completely understand it as well. I expect to never be finished writing about this subject - E-I-T-H-E-R .... as the more ways you present an idea the higher likely hood you have of people understanding your point.

There are hundreds of hair stylists that read this Blog & I invite anyone to "Guest-Author" a Post on this subject, on secondhand . . . I invite any Hair Stylist to write a Post on a subject of your choice - too! That is a great idea, please consider it.

NOw, back to the subject that is difficult to understand.....many of you continue to get yourselves in some bad situations by not getting it. Please if you think you understand everything about hair color, read this........... be sure you understand this one concept before you do anything further to your hair- color wise. It is and always has been the single most misunderstood fact about Hair Color.

Hair Color does NOT Lift Hair Color

So, if you have one hair color on your hair and want to go LIGHTER, you cannot apply a lighter color on top of a darker one and have it work. We simply do not have that technology, but if I know the cosmetic chemists around the world, they are rap[idly working on this fact as I speak!

If you have a Level 6 (Brunette) hair color by any company whatsoever on and then want to put a Level 10 (light blonde) on top of it, NOTHING WILL HAPPEN. You can use any developer you want to, but the technology just doesn't exist yet in today's world.

In the world we live in today, you can do anything pretty much any more it seems. But Hair Color hasn't really changed a whole lot since being discovered 100 years ago.
People get hung up the terms Demi.......& Semi-permanent..........I find it fascinating. My assistant got her hair colored over the weekend by her niece and went from brown to red which is all the rage here right now.

I was astonished at how great it looked on her, but she said, 'oh my niece only used semi permanent on me' - which I had to break the bad news to her, no - she did not, as you cannot turn brown hair.... red, without using a color WITH developer most likely it was .. 20Volume developer, which makes it permanent. She was upset (which is why I decided to write this Post !).....but......some of the brown MUST come out of the hair in order for the red pigment to go in.
Its a science to me.

To the public they listen to certain words and think that somehow if it is semi permanent or demi permanent, they will be able to shampoo it out and their own virgin hair will return.That simply, is just not the case I'm afraid, and is another of the biggest misconceptions in the hair color industry. It is the sole reason my web site & store has remained busy for nearly 8 years! I continue to explain this to people so they will understand and don't get themselves in trouble over and over

THERE ARE VERY FEW LAWS IN OUR COUNTRY

THAT GOVERN THE HAIR INDUSTRY !

The FDA is too busy trying to keep drugs off our streets than to care about hair color I guess. So any company can put any name on any product, if its permanent color many times they print 'demi' on the box - because they know how the public thinks. Don't listen to them.
I'm afraid to report that many hair stylists don't take the education of hair color seriously, so they begin their color career 'guessing'. Not all of them, but many. They tell their clients the wrong thing and it upsets me because they are misleading you.

If you had used hair color that would only coat your hair with no line of demarcation...........it would HAVE to be a true Semi-permanent hair color, which means (technical and truthfully) hair color that comes straight from the bottle or tube & is NOT MIXED WITH DEVELOPER. Today's world is now calling it "Direct Color" which is a good name for that category of hair color, because it is indicative of how that color is used. . . . . DIRECTLY FROM THE TUBE ! Now the problem of Direct Color is, you cannot "lighten hair. Lightening hair only comes from the combination of hair color and H2O2 or Developer.

When Direct color is used and if you were to apply red on top of brown, you would barely see it. Its as if you took a brown crayon and colored a circle on a piece of paper, now pick up a red crayon, color on top of the brown.....what do you think you will see? Maybe a teeny tiny tint of red, but truthfully it will still look brown, hardly any color will be apparent. Use the same theory with crayons. Its an analogy I came up with a long time ago in trying to explain this theory, so all my Crib Colorists will understand.
As long as developer is mixed with color -- even DEMI & permanent - your own hair color will change because developer alters Virgin hair color....no matter what volume it is. Even 5 Volume and 3 Volume will change virgin hair. So, remember that fact and the only way to get to true Virgin untouched hair is to stop coloring, begin getting your hair trimmed every 6 weeks, until it GROWS OUT! Depending on the length of your hair, your health and your genetics your hair grows an average of 1/2inch per month....it will take quite a while to get it back to VIRGIN.

Its funny the estimates range from 70-90 % of all women color their hair nowadays, hair color is truly considered an accessory or at least here in L.A. it is! I can't tell you the last time I ran into someone with virgin hair color, but its a noble goal for some of you!

So to go lighter, one MUST remove the darker hair color - - first.
Which is why the Shampoo Train and Vanish exist and are one of the top selling items in our store at all times !

Make sense?zs?I hope someone will take me up on writing a Post.....
Thank You,
KC

Redken high-lift Blond - Strand Test, Photo Demo

I have a new line of high-lifts to bring you. Its brand new by Redken. I ran some Strand tests and out of the 3 ........I tested we had 1 sure fire winner as you can see by the photos.

I began with a brand new doll head that had the most unbelievable -virgin human hair I have ever felt in a Level 5-6. I have been buying these things for 20 years and never has one ever felt as 'scary' as this one! I bought it to demo the Splash-Lights technique for you.... I really think some of you might like to give it a try, its easy to do to oneself, if done mildly it could be fun for some of you who might be afraid to go all the way with it. Its also a great way to give you some new glow for Spring. So, I thought that would be a great photo Demo and thought I would do a Vine as well....something I have wanted to try for a while now.

Therefore I chose to lift up the back of this hair and use it to strand test 3 of the new high-lift blonde's from Redken to see their quality. I will never stop looking!! ha ha!

untouched

The weapons of mass Blonde destruction (click on any photo for link to product page)

Here is first section its about 1 1/2 " on far right

In the Center we have Titanium - someone call Katy Perry and tell her the bad news

..........and the winner is............BL.1 - BLUE

Oh, BTW.........I processed these all 95 minutes, as I do with all highlifts...just FYI and finished each one off with INTENSIVE - yep even on a damn doll head.......I want to feel if there is any damage after these tests so everything that one would normally use has to be tested along with the product. As you can see her hair was in amazing shape afterwards!

Enjoy the Sale !

KC

Double Process Blonding is a very popular topic in our Group lately, so I thought one more Post would be helpful to them in coming up with their game plan for their new formula.

Level 12 color or High-lift Blonde is made by every company and they are sold as colors that lift 5 levels....which is an outright and complete lie. I challenge all companies to tell me which line they feel does that and I would be happy to run a test and eat my words.....and take a photo of me eating my words !! ! ! "take-my-words" back ! It just isn't so, so what happens and gets...........so many of you, in pickles is... these Stylists that are "guessing" how hair color works, listen to you being emphatic over the words , "please don't use Bleach". So they use the high-lift that claims it lifts 3-5 levels and you end up with BLORANGE roots and or hair.

Apparently that damn Sally's has come out with their own version of my Oil Bleach Kit, nice to see my preaching is reaching large corporations - Sally's is the largest beauty supply in the world and it single-handedly ruins more women's hair than any other company. L'Oreal runs a very close 2nd btw. The Kit has only been out a short time and I already have countless women asking me why their oil bleach didn't work.......AND THE REASON IS ...THEY USED SALLY'S - - NOT MINE. SALLY'S HAS POWDERED BLEACH IN AN ENVELOPE. The whole kit is $5.00 - come on women you get what you pay for.......... How many times have I said this. NO-DAMN- SHORT CUTS.

My Kit has Creme Lightener with Gleam added in the container so more oil seeps in the creme lightener as it sits to be sold.....then you add even more oil (glammor) and we use a special Violet tinted Developer - the amount of lipids and oils in my Kit is simply OFF THE CHART !!!!!!!!!!! Plus I have been using it for over 10 years with Amazing results.

High-lifts on their very best day lift 3 levels "3" and that is rare, therefore the question to you is one of REALITY.

So if you are anything darker than a VIRGIN Level 8-9....which is pretty much every single one of you, well you will end up with either brass, blorange or Gold hair at the end of a very expensive Coloring session.

Now I am here to teach you how to avoid that.
HOW?
By listening to this Post and learning how things work and what you must do to have the beautiful blonde that is possible on every single one of you. You might not like the rules, but I promise you, but I didn't make them up.

Every color company states that high-lift lifts 4-5 Levels when they do not.
Beyond that the next in a great Colorists' arsenal is what we refer to as "Double-Process-Blonding" .
That is how you obtain this hair color:

The one and only way to do this and end up with healthy shiny hair when you are finished is by purchasing our OIL BLEACH KIT, I do not mean to sound like a used car salesman, what I do get tired of hearing and doing is .....listening to so many sad stories of how you were led awry - its not your fault and I thought after I wrote this Blog and a few years went by that the problem would be solved. But to the contrary......... it seems to have grown for some reason. Maybe because having platinum hair has grown so much - especially this year........I have so very many email and consultation requests for platinum hair.

This is a double Step of a BLEACH and Tone........which is necessary..... when you do this for so many years on every color from Level 1 to Albino hair, you completely understand hair color !
This double process Step is called: Bleach & tone.
First you bleach and ONLY with our OIL Bleach Kit....in our Oil Bleach Kit Unlike the crappy Sally's ones (Please I beg you to not use those or you will be knocking on my door tomorrow)
The mistakes I hear the public & Hair Stylists making all the time in trying to achieve platinum hair are the following :

They do not remove the "old" hair color first.....bleach is a lightening agent....NOT a color remover. - Remove old hair color with our VANISH KIT - first. 1 box is enough on most people unless you have Black hair color in that case you realize the change you are trying to make and they do not call platinum hair the epitome of the term "high maintenance" that is actually where the term was derived - back in the Marilyn Monroe days !
Do Not use powder lightener, that was designed only for small pieces of hair such as highlights ( I never use powder lightener - rarely do you need it with cream and oil lightener in existence).
the lightener must be applied multiple times and it depends on the color Level you are beginning with as to how many applications of Oil bleach you will need. In the future you will only be using 1 application to re-touch your roots.
All bleaches only process for 55-75 minutes - period, so at that time ity is time to remove it and apply another application.
At that point you take the lightener OFF, rinse in luke cool water for 5 minutes
Apply INTENSIVE for minimum 30 min. rinse dry hair and Apply 1 more time. You don't stop when the hair is Gold or Blorange, that means you need another application to achieve the platinum hair. You do this until your hair reaches the color of frozen butter or the inside of banana.
Then when the lightness is achieved........ go through the process with the INTENSIVE and rinse, then apply THRIVEN OVERNIGHT.......that is a pure miracle worker I promise you. Tone the hair the next day. Its always best if you can wait 24 hours before that, if you can't then proceed that way.
Be sure you are using a Toner so that means a demi-permanent color line ONLY - and never more that a 13Volume developer for a toner on platinum hair I prefer 6 Volume Color Touch and 10/6.

Here is a review or our blee-ached blonde series
make sure you have all the preliminary basics -

.
8 Key Factors Affecting:
the Double Process: Bleach & Tone

#1) Scalp Health:use fingers and a good mirror to check over the entire scalp, there should be no scabs, wounds, zits or any type of open skin abrasions on the scalp. If there are when you apply that bleach, ( yes, even oil bleach) you will jump through the roof. Better to prevent that from happening – your skin will thank me.

#2) End result determined: first taking into account the “5 LEVELS OF LIFT/DEPOSIT RULE”. Best advice by millions of pro hair stylists is not to go beyond 5 levels of lift or deposit from your natural level. There is reason and experience behind this theory and I (most of the time) go along with it. A Level 1 or 2 who wants to be blond looks excellent with panels of Level 7-8-9 ASH blonds - but not so great with Level 10-11 Blond.…. { I recently did a girls hair like this > am mad at myself for not taking photos. One of the biggest mistakes of my career is not documenting enough of it, I have photos, but of some of the most spectacular, I don’t. I’ve always thought, “I’ll do this again” then never do because the style & trends change grrr!}
If you are going for a Medium blond rather than a light blond you would leave more underlying pigment, usually undertones of GOLD. Light blonds need an undertone of YELLOW and very light blonds need PALE YELLOW.
Be sure to determine what level of blond you want to become -- with this tutorial we are going the lightest-- Level 12 Gwen Stefani – Frozen Butter (palest yellow) is the name of the game.
# 3 Hair Health: hair needs to be in pretty good condition for this procedure to be taken on. If the hair is in bad condition prior to…it will be destroyed after- this is not the procedure for you. Please work on your hairs condition before taking this up. Go through the Deep Slumber Protocol, I’ve never found any deep conditioner better than my THRIVEN – you leave it in overnight 2 nights a week. (6OZ Jar: $40.00) Killerstrands@gmail.com Your hair will improve in 1 month.

#4 Natural Level: More heavily pigmented hair takes longer to lighten; I find almost all Levels of hair need to bleached twice except possibly Level 8 and up…all the other factors matter as well.

#5 Gray Hair: Surprising to many, gray hair lightens fairly easily…gray hair is hair with no pigment so lightening it to the blond level is easy.

#6 Texture: Coarse hair takes longer to lighten than fine hair, which also means that fine hair needs to be watched closely so as not to leave the product on for too long.

#7 Porosity: Very porous hair lightens more easily than non porous hair. Porosity = the ability of hair to absorb & retain moisture – determined by how compact together the cuticle layers are (condition) – described as resistant/normal or over porous.

#8 Artificial Pigment: having old color or tint of any kind will alter the timing and application of any bleaching procedure. The area where the artificial pigment is will have to be reapplied many times. This is what can become tricky and one should proceed with caution. My only advice: every single head of hair is different, so every head of hair needs its own set of rules….keep your eye on the hair as the bleach is working…to make sure things are going OK. If Black pigment is in the hair, VANISH (color remover) needs to be used first.
There are no set rules for this instance except artificial pigment is harder to lift than natural pigment.

Mixing “On-The-Scalp” Cream Oil Bleach

Comment about Oil Bleach Kit.... April 2,2015......by Amanda ....Killerstrands Group

Mixing the bleach to the proper consistency has a lot to do with how good your application will be and how efficient the lightening will be.

Measure all the ingredients carefully and read and re-read the instructions, most think it sounds backwards I’m told, and the way I have you mix it, is important.

A lot of things depend on how long the hair is, whether there is artificial pigment etc.but determine if you will be making one application or 2. If you are beginning to turn long hair platinum you will want to make 1 gigantic batch (using both applications) and apply that to the lengths of the hair all the way up to 1 inch from the scalp. Leave that 1 inch from the head without lightener until the very end. If you have Level's 2-4 virgin hair, you will want to apply lightener to the lengths 2 or 3 times without hitting the BASE. Then at the very end apply lightener to the base(roots)..........why?.......the heat from the head makes the lightener 1 inch from the head lighten 3 X times as fast as the lengths.....the goal is to have evenly lightened hair - if you remember that as the # 1 important goal. You will have happy - healthy shiny hair at all times !

. Remember almost everyone will think they should use higher than 20 Volume on the base (Scalp) – some scalps are so sensitive they need 10 Volume to protect them. There is absolutely NO reason your scalp or head should hurt in this process. Any Hair Stylist that has ever done that to you – needs to go back to school !

If you do have Level 2-4 Virgin hair that you are beginning with please request at least 1 of the Kits you purchase for a swap out of the Violet Developer to 40 Volume. I believe its OK if your hair is that dark naturally to apply 40 Volume Violet developer using the cream oil lightener base and Gleam oil addition to the mixture..........never forget those items!

I suppose for many Readers you might like to use an applicator bottle, I want to encourage you to please please practice with a Tint Brush and Tint Bowl there is a reason the pros use it...........why? The pressure from spreading the product on with a brush helps the color come out even....Remember we are trying to become Crib Colorists which means you are as good as a pro only you do it at home !

** After mixing bleach, be sure to have hair parted into 4 equal sections as in all hair color applications, as you see Molly's hair is here.

** Start application where hair is the darkest – almost always in the back.

* Make 1/8 inch subsections, applying to the hair 1 inch away from the scalp and to the ends (depending on porosity of course). Applying to top and bottom combing through to be sure the bleach has saturated the section as evenly as possible – moving very quickly. Up one section…then up the next

Then just continuing to move down one section at a time applying the color & combing it thru..........

When someone apply's hair color TO your head you go from the bottom, to the top .........when you are applying it to yourself you will work in reverse with a wall mounted rear-view mirrors.
We used to carry Jerdon's

There a lot of you who have bought VANISH, its back-ordered & will be here later today...While you are waiting - PLEASE. . .BEGIN THE SHAMPOO TRAIN- this is the 'KC' trick (that helps you save money on the color removal process - which in a Salon can cost well over $500.)

also helps you prepare to go platinum/blond

Whoops, now what?

In order to re-do any bad color. . . the very 1st process MUST BE . . .
Removing the old color 1st & foremost....and the more you remove the better the Re-color will be !

The minute you figure out your hair color is not what you want, or is a complete mis

take . . . the very first thing you should do? Walk into your bathroom, find the crappiest shampoo you can. Shampoo your hair and leave the shampoo in the hair for a couple hours. What we are looking for when we need to correct the wrong hair color is to begin loosening the hair color molecules that are trapped in the hair strand. As silly and simple as it sounds, one of the most common and gentle methods of fading artificial hair color is “crappy shampoo”. It is the number one method that fades color from color to re-coloring.

Therefore it only makes sense to use it.

In hair color as in life, common sense can be your best friend.

The title of the procedure? the Shampoo Train. Why? Because it involves application after application of shampoo, while waiting for your color remover to arrive and for you to do the research needed to fix your hair color. One of the most alarming realizations I came to in listening to the women of America talk about the problems they have with getting the proper hair color ? Was not that they couldn’t afford to go to a competent hair colorist, it was that they could not “FIND ONE”! !! !! What a horrible thing to hear….Wow that was a wake-up call for me ! You will find if you read this Blog from the beginning until now, that I had completely different ideas at the beginning. I had absolutely no intentions of teaching America how to formulate their own hair color, it is hard enough to teach certified Hair Stylists how to. When I found that to be the biggest problem I changed game plans … I truly wanted to “give-back” and I felt by teaching what I knew about hair color and hair health it would probably be the most appreciated advice I could give. That’s what happens when you fall ill ( you become reflective!)

As simple as shampooing sounds it is always what I have recommended to anyone stopping by, or calling me in a panic about their hair color. It would be great if you could use our Redken stripping Shampoo with for that process, but if speed & panic is in the equation - - use Prell or the crappiest shampoo under your sink! Using the most gentle manner to fade unwanted color out of the hair is always the best decision so grab the shampoo wet your hair and wash those strands like they did in the old days on a ‘wash board”… rubbing your 2 hands together with strands in between. I am dead serious this is the key to getting the hair color ready to be fully removed.

SHAMPOO TRAIN

Wet hair
Cheap lousy shampoo application
Use plenty of shampoo
Scrub hands together w/ strands in-between
leave suds on hair, apply plastic treatment cap
use heat from hair dryer/sun {helps color molecules loosen}
leave suds on 45-60 min
rinse & repeat
up to 5 times daily

Now the modified version of the Shampoo Train for those of you that don’t want to bother:
MINI-SHAMPOO TRAIN

Wet hair

Cheap lousy shampoo

use plenty of shampoo

Scrub hands with strands in between

leave suds on hair while sleeping or 10 minutes

rinse

repeat daily

The Full shampoo Train is the best ……….with the mini-Train the next and obviously none… is not so good. I promise you, this step is the beginning of a safe and healthy home Hair Color Correction. This is what is used on celebs whom want the health of their hair kept in tact. As always, I am always watching out for the health of the hair. This is the single healthiest manner of removing artificial hair color ( of any type) from the hair.
The next step is using the color remover I recommend, BUT . . . the day you apply the color remover, …..about 80% end up with a decent color the other 20% will be some horrendous shade of Orange/Yellow. Depends on a million and 1 variables. So I recommend that you be prepared to re-color at time of Color Removal. In order to not make the same mistakes, this is when I hope you will take the time to read as many posts that I have written over the past 3 years that have to do with what you would like to do to your hair. Your options have been minimized but still remember - - YOU ARE LEARNING to take control of your own hair.

Many times I will get this question, “how can I take the blond “out” of my hair . . .( for whatever reason) ?? This takes a lot of explaining . . . and there are many times, like right now, when I simply cannot figure out exactly how to explain it…its a bizarre concept. Nor can I think of one other correlation so I can compare it to something familiar for you…………….It is a fairly UNIQUE concept. You cannot take blond “out” of hair. When you are beginning with darker hair and going towards BLOND, the way you get there is NOT by putting “blond” into the hair. It is by taking your own darker pigmented hair color OUT OF YOUR HAIR, that ‘creates’ the blond. We call it, “lifting”in the hair color world which basically equals “lightening”. When I say that 30 Volume Developer “lifts” hair 2-3 levels, it means: when a particular hair color mixed with 30 volume developer is applied to your hair it will “lift”
(lighten) your hair 2-3 levels lighter than what it is.

Therefore, if you have applied this color and to achieve the blond – the process need to take your existing color out of the hair strand….in order to lighten it. Then does it now make sense to you that blond is really “not” a color….what it is, is your own hair color – lifted out of the strand. Which I hope makes it clear to you why “DURP” is so damned important.
DURP is Dominant-Underlying- Remaining-Pigment. When I explain that if you have “good DURP”, this is what I am referring to. The stages in which Levels of your hair color “leave” the hair strand can leave in a ‘good way’ or they can leave in a “bad way’. What does that

depend on?............ The Lord up above !

Therefore if you were a level 7 and were headed towards a level 10B and ended up with some weird horrific level 9G…that would be what we are talking about. You did not apply a blond in order to achieve that 9-GOLD you applied a tint with a 30 volume developer that was working to subtract your own pigment from your hair strand and what happens is , it stops at some point. The color stops being “lifted” from the hair strand at a certain point, where that color stops is the blond you are left with. There fore it is NOT blond you have put “IN” to the strand, but. . . . Color (your very own pigment) that has been “lifted” out. When I refer to DURP . . . and why it is just so very very important . . . it is for this very reason that as Colorists, as Chemists, as Magicians we have no control over. The DURP you have and the blond you “become” are a total equation of God’s making!

As Colorists, and what I try very hard to teach you here . . . we try to work with your DURP and “counter” it or “enhance” it depending upon what your is. That is the making of a “manufactured blond” . . or a manufactured color of any color for that matter. I know it sounds confusing and is a bit hard to swallow, but just keep reading this post over and over . . . I promise you - - if you do, you will begin to understand the concept of hair coloring and hair coloring gone wrong.

When you have strong orange tones in your hair, those will be the ones that keep your hair from going to that pretty baby blond you want …so we try to use a “blue” based Blond to “counter” the orange pigments, in picking our blond. Using the new MAGMA Blondor bleach that actually bleaches and tones in one step actually tones the hair “blue” while it is lightening it. Just the fact that one entire product has put blue pigment in the mix, should show you how strong that (God-awful) orange pigment really is and why so many people end up with that horrific brassy- orange mess.

Now, once you have got the shampoo-train going on your hair to begin loosening the molecules, the next step should be to begin your research on the product VANISH.

More to come………………

tce99

Killer Chemist
KC

Our most asked about issue regarding hair color is 'how to get the brass out of Blond'.... that... & how to get blond hair at home without damage or problems.

If you have not gotten a Color Wheel and are having problems with these issues ..... please get one - it will help - promise. Studying the Color Wheel will help....as the goal of hair coloring is the opposite of what most of you think. . . it is eliminating the colors you don't want....AS OPPOSED TO : adding the color you think you should add. That is what I want you to think of FIRST. For example, with lightening hair very light............what "don't you want?"............Yellow or Brass.

This is when you grab your Color Wheel......and continually look for the color Opposing the color you are trying to diminish.
If you don't want Brass. What color is opposite of it on the Wheel?..............Purple.
Therefore using a lightening product that is either blue or violet-based always helps.
We have a WONDERFUL Violet Developer with the Oil Bleach Kits. Everything we can do to help get rid of yellow/gold/brass tendencies is included in that kit.

For 20 years I have been looking for a professional BLUE DEVELOPER and we finally have one in the store. What does BLUE counter on the counter wheel GOLD or ORANGE or what I refer to as BLORANGE ! So, we now have a blue developer option. ! I am so happy to offer this to many of you.

I'm always trying to figure out "how" to tell you the proper way to achieve your goals in hair coloring so, be sure to read all my posts on any 1 subject, especially this one...remember in each one I will try a different method of explaining the subject. I have found in Hair Coloring explanations.....just read the post over and over.....eventually it WILL sink in
!

For the purposes of this Post we will refer to Hair Bleach as Hair Lightener.....that is how I was taught and that is how I feel YOU should get used to.
Hair Lighteners are used to create a blonde shade that is not achievable with hair color.

What happens usually is: you will use a highlift blond (Level 12 blond) color, then there will come a day when it no longer lightens your hair light enough (without yellow) - as you grow older your hair becomes darker and it needs the next step......which is Hair Lightener (bleach).
Studying the Color Wheel will drive it home faster for you . .
Just follow this post and use our professional lightening supplies for a Professional result.

Notice the 2 completely different shades (tones) of bleached blonde hair of these 2 men :
Brad Pitt & a model that looks like him. The model is white and Pitt is yellow. The difference is.....if you were to leave the lightener on longer it would kick the yellow out of the hair and you would NOT have to use a Toner. That is the DESIRED look when lightening hair this light, to have to use a TONER always would be costly and tiresome. Some of you have so much natural yellow DURP, that a toner is necessary, we have a page of Toners.

YELLOW -YELLOW -YELLOW.....Mr. Pitt is just too Yellow

I have 2 Toners I love from LAKME,
one fights brass................................................................10/22 + 13.Volume or 6V.
and one fight Blorange......................Blue /Ash Platinum 10/17 + 6.Volume or 13 V.

Probably seems strange how a colour wheel can relate to hair colour
most brilliant ideas go back to "the basics", there is nothing more basic than the Colour Wheel most of learn it in elementary school.

As you look at the Color Wheel you see Yellow.................what is directly across from it??????????
Purple.
Using a Toner with a Purple Base will eliminate Mr Pitt's problem.

objectionable shades in hair colors

in blondes: the yellow tone of a blond is very unappealing + as well as Gold / or Blorange

redheads: ORANGE / GOLD will be the objectionable shades in a tinted redhead

objectionable Brunettes would be "GREEN" brunette (ash)....but then there are others who won't want any red in their brown. To be honest it takes a balance of green & red to make a gorgeous brunette, isn't that funny who would ever guess there is all these colors in another color.
Remember we are talking about 'artificial hair

Yellow Bleached hair is probably one of the worst things on planet earth.
The method of fixing a too yellow blond is the best way to show you how the color wheel relates to hair colour.
In order to cancel the yellow tone in the blond one must head to the color wheel (until you memorize it)
The opposite of yellow?
Purple/Violet or even a Blue-Violet BASED toner ...is the answer.....which is why you would order BREAKING BAD BLUE BURST Conditioner if you would like to cancel those Gold-y - BLOrange Tones that are so irritating

PLATINUM BEAUTY

This is what a cool clean platinum should look like and in acieving platinum almost every single person is capable of achieving this color. You do not need to be somebody special, you just need to use all the tools available to achieve it. That, and apply the bleach multiple times. Applying it once is for Virgin Level 9.............Applying it Twice........is for Virgin Level 7 + 8............Applying it 3X is for Virgin Level 6.............Applying it 4 X is for virgin Level 4 & 5............and so on......Level

Lighteners

As soon as Lighteners are mixed with hydrogen peroxide...it begins to release Oxygen. This process is known as oxidation - - - occurs within the cortex of the hair!

Again . . . Lighteners are used to create a BLOND shade that is no longer achievable
Lighteners are chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment. EVERYONE has pigment in their hair except for ??? Who ??? Gray Haired people. Gray hair is hair with NO pigment in it.

Lighteners usually come in 1 of 2 forms : Powder..............or Cream.

Here at Killerstrands we have the old school method of an "Oil Bleach" : Which means a bleach one can mix up with Oil + Developer and apply directly to the scalp without any irritation to the Client at all. Its funny in all my years there is no way to tell who will be sensitive to Lightener or not....therefore I ALWAYS apply Oil Bleach to a client who desires a look such as Mr. Pitt's (and whiter of course!!).

Powder Lightener ( powder bleach)

This lightener is the old standard. Most everyone uses it for just about any lightening they have. I'm hesitant to tell you all the ways people MIS-Use it. So, I won't.

Applying a blue-violet or purple based Toner to the yellow blonde will kill the yellow and make the blond a very pleasant Platinum ( think Marilyn Monroe white-blonde) or like the gentleman model on the right at top of the page.
SEE THE DIFFERENCE THE PROPER TONER MAKES?. PItt has no toner on his bleached mess, the bleached model has a violet based Platinum Toner from Wella which was left on the hair for 25 minutes after the bleaching process.
Mixing toners produce wonderful results - having multiple dozens of brands and tones, there is nothing more fun than playing with hair colour toners on blondes, silly, huh?
I love it!
The same process works for every hair colour, they have toners in all shades and tones. The too-green (ASH) Browns...using a red brown (AUBURN) toner will warm that brown right up...and so on.
A toner has three possible names

Toner

Semi-Permanent color

Demi-Permanent color

They are very low volume peroxide colours ...so there is no lift (cannot go lighter). The colours end up being very transparent / sheer cover over the hair...........they add shine and cancel unwanted tones.... They also do wash out easily, it is especially important to use a sulfate-free shampoo.

Here at Killerstrands, we make sure to ONLY SELL SULFATE-FREE SHAMPOO!

Color Wheels for Reference

go across(opposite) for whatever colour you want to get rid of to neutralize

The Level System
What level are you?

Everyone MUST understand a few of the basic rules of Hair Color, they are not difficult, they are easy. I want you to understand them so a much larger percentage of women will be able to color their hair at home and it will come out correctly. There are just too many people having their hair destroyed by BOXED HAIR COLOR KITS. The big corporate guys will hate me for saying this, but as long as all of you continue to support me, they can't wipe me off of the face of the web. Those boxed hair color ( I call it Crap-in-a-Box) should be banned by the FDA in my opinion.

This is why Crap-In-A-Box doesn't work.......

In each box color you are given 1 Volume of developer. From what you have learned through me and my teachings, how could 1 Volume developer work for each and every person that picks up that one box when there are so many to choose from? What if they put 20 Volume in that box and you needed 40Volume? That is why so many who use Box Color - - end up in a Salon for a costly, lengthy Color Correction session

Using the Level System gives you more flexibility, so you are not given a set bottle of hair color with a set bottle of peroxide ( that come in those damn Kits) for everyone.

LEVEL is the unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color; it is sometimes referred to as value or depth. Colorists use the LEVEL SYSTEM to analyze the lightness or darkness of a hair color (See chart 02-01).

Hair color levels are arranged on a scale of 1 to 12, with 1 being the darkest and 12 being the lightest ( not too long ago it was 1-10 ;some new HIGH LIFT Blonde's added 2 more light levels). The names for the natural hair color levels may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer but they each use this chart as the base.

What I want you to learn here is simple....try to get very comfortable with these Levels and especially:

KNOW YOUR OWN VIRGIN (without color or anything on it) LEVEL OF HAIR COLOR

that is an important piece of info and will be important for the rest of your life(even though it will change as you turn grey!)

Please figure that out right now and email to me ______________.

If you are a redhead (as am I) its a tiny bit more complicated, you still use the same chart to figure it out, you would just draw your finger across the chart to the different "hues" it goes from Gold/Red to Red to Red/Gold to Red/Violet and keeps going as well.
For example:
KILLER CHEMIST > NATURAL LEVEL COLOR: I am a Level8/RG
which means my roots or virgin hair is a LEVEL 8 Red/Gold (or Light Copper). Knowing that piece of info helps me be able to figure out more accurately what to use to color my hair with hair color.

Using and knowing this chart really well, is what you need to learn in order for you to become a good HOME HAIR COLORIST.

I'm going to plaster this onto your brain this week. .. by showing you many different ways to memorize and relate it to your hair...

So get ready!

TheColorWheel andHairColor...
Identifying your Natural LEVEL is the first step in understanding PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR for the Home Hair Colorist.

The next most valuable tool is the Color Wheel, remember the color wheel from elementary school? That probably sounds odd, let me simplify it.

Its important to have a general understanding of how colors work together, you may already know but let me review and how it relates to Hair Color. Remember I am trying to help you learn to Color your hair correctly at home and that's it! If you can understand the color wheel.... when you have colored your hair blond and it has this weird cast of green to it ??? knowing the color wheel well -will help you understand how it got there and more importantly how to get rid of it. I still to this day will glance at it - I love color, but looking at the wheel can settle many questions with hair.

The LAW OF COLOR is a system for understanding color relationships. When combining colors, you will always get the same result from the same combination. Equal parts of Red and Blue together always make violet. The Color Wheels on this page should help you understand the relationships.

PRIMARYCOLORS: are pure fundamental colors that cannot be achieved from a mixture. The primary colors are blue,red and yellow. All colors are created from these colors. Colors predominantly blue are "cool" toned colors...many hair colors are referred to as Cool - Icy ...which usually means have a 'blue base' or 'blue cast' to them. Colors with a predominance of red are "warm" toned colors ... on the flip side many hair colors are also referred to as "warm" in hair color meaning they have red base.

Blue is the darkest of the primary colors and is the only cool primary color. In addition to coolness, blue also brings depth or darkness to any color to which it is added.

Become An Educated Crib Colorist
It is completely necessary to understand COLOR THEORY in order to become a decent Crib Colorist.
First we have Primary hair Colors which are Red, Blue & Yellow. From Red-Blue-& Yellow we can make EVERY SINGLE COLOR on earth! Think about that. So that means that every hair color that exists, is made up of different variations of Red-Blue & Yellow . . .in varying amounts of each color. Therefore when you take away or add opposing colors it fixes or creates your desired hair color.

Take a few minutes and begin hearing some facts about color theory. Let them absorb and we will talk about the subject again.

Red is the medium primary color. Red added to blue-based colors will cause them to appear lighter. Red added to yellow colors will cause them to become darker.

Yellow is the lightest of the primary colors. When you add yellow to other colors, the resulting color is lighter and brighter in appearance.

When all 3 colors are present in equal proportions, the resulting color is BLACK! It helps to think of hair colors in terms of their relative proportions of primary colors. NEUTRAL BROWN, for example, has the primary colors in the following proportions: blue --- B, red --- RR, yellow---YYY.

hang in there . . . don't want to put anyone to sleep..........

Secondary Colors: a color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors...secondary colors are: green, orange and violet .

Blue + Yellow = Green

Red + Yellow = Orange

Red + Blue = Violet

Tertiary Colors is an intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts. Tertiary colors include blue-green, blue-violet,red-violet,red-orange,yellow-orange, and yellow-green. Natural looking hair color is made up of a combination of primary and secondary colors.

Last one! and this is the one that saves your butt every time!

my fav...

ComplementaryColors are a primary and secondary colors positioned opposite each other on the color wheel. The colors of the BLOGGER website are complementary and many logos and insignias because they "pop". Complementary colors include:

blue........and orange

red..........and green

yellow ....and violet

This where they come in handy...

Complementary colors NEUTRALIZE each other . When formulating hair color, you will find that it is often your goal to emphasize or distract from skin tones or eye color or to NEUTRALIZE or refine unwanted tones in the hair. Understanding complementary colors will help you choose the appropriate tones to accomplish that goal.

A very common problem, so that you can "picture" this in your mind.... which should help you understand it.

Ever seen a bleached blond who didn't leave the bleach on long enough??? and its this horrid shade of YELLOW , its a very common problem. If you take that head of hair and purchase what is called a "toner" I have always used the analogy of a "NYLON" to my clients . When you shove your arm into a pair of nylons you can still see your arm it just has a "see-thru" cast to it....? correct?? the cast is whatever color "nylon" you chose.

Same with Toners, you can "see" thru them.

So with the very YELLOW bleached blond hair....

WHICH color toner would you track down?

To NEUTRALIZE the YELLOW . . . . . .??? ? ? ?

Look at the color wheel.......................

which color NEUTRALIZES --Yellow ................follow the color wheel ............where??............opposite side.............

Violet.

Violet based Toner.

A COOL BASED VIOLET toner,will knock that yellow out of the ball park! So NO MORE BRASS! ! !

Fun and Games

The missing primary color in this game is what you would use to neutralize the unwanted tone.

Find the color to neutralize the following:

Orange ?

Green ?

Violet ?

Really spend time trying to learn Color Theory . . .one day, I promise it will just click, as I have watched all my assistants learn over the years.

PIC 20-40

Crib Coloring

In an attempt to stay interesting and not bore you, I am going from “hair” theory back to “color” theory and back again. It’s an odd of way teaching the info but am assuming we have no closet Cosmetology students out there and it will be OK.

D.ominant U.nderlying R.emaining P.igment
Contributionor

DURP
Its very important to understand DURP.
Primary, secondary and tertiary colors can be found at any level of natural hair color ( See Pic 20-40) .Remaining pigment contribution is the color that will be left in the hair after the lifting process. Lifting is the term used for lightening basically.
Knowing the colors that will be present at a given level of color ensures that you will select the proper base color formulation to either neutralize or enhance to achieve the desired color.

A huge problem you will face is that most color swatch charts display color selections on “white hair” swatches, another weird move on the hair color manufacturers’ part… My complaint with Boxed Hair Color is how they do not take into count what color the hair is underneath when selling them. It matters, as much as they like to pretend it doesn’t, when new colorists ( like you) are just learning how to do this, that can really throw them off.

It irks me that the damn companies cannot just make the charts right to begin with. It wouldn’t cost a penny more, but it would be correct, therefore eliminating all the improper color on women in those first few years of learning hair color and when buying hair color “kits”. Hair color is a science and does not have to be “guess work” which is what these companies make it , by supplying the wrong information. By the way, the charts are just as messed up for us in the professional world as well, so they are not prejudice, we all get screwed up with improper color charts and information.

Can’t they just spread that technology so all the companies can benefit ? Like I said..its not rocket science.The entire problem with both Boxed Kits and their charts boils down to them not taking into consideration the pigment contributed from the natural hair UNDERNEATH that will remain during the lifting cycle.

( Figure 20-40 is just a rule of thumb there is no way to make charts like this on every line for every company)

Contribution of DURP
Decolorizing the hair’s natural melanin pigment allows the colorist to create the exact degree of contributing pigment needed for the final result. First, the hair is decolorized (bleached) to the appropriate level. Then the new color is applied to deposit the desired color. The natural pigment that remains in the hair contributes to the artificial color that is added. Lightening the hair to the correct stage is essential to become a beautiful, controlled, final hair coloring result.

Many times you see people walking around with just awful “yellow” hair, for a Colorist there is nothing worse to see “yellow” or “orange” that is a mistake by not lightening the hair enough times or leaving the lightener on the hair long enough. You must always reapply lightener as it stops work after 65-70 minutes. So taking it off and re-applying is the best way to achieve that brass-free blond you desire ! Sometimes with very resistant hair…you may need to do it one more time the next day. The point is Stylists that leave hair this way, don't need to, it might take a while but ALL hair is fixable in my mind. My mentor taught me that as I watched her many times work for 1 or 2 full days on a tough case. She would be proud, I have spent many a long night in that same spot.

Toners are semi permanent or demi-permanent hair colors that are used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors. They are applied to the lightest degree of contributing pigment that remains after the decolorization (bleaching) process.

Toners are one of my passions…there was a time when I had hundreds of toners on hand at all times…one can perform magic with them. If you like to be blond – becoming a Picasso of Toners is a suggestion of mine you can vary the color of your hair with something as simple as a Toner application every other week & using the proper brand can also lend a tremendous amount of shine and strength to your strands. One of my favorite’s - I call it MAUVE - CREME -

it’s a very soft-rose-cream color…use Maroon BURST maybe to achieve it (having a platinum base). This is a Color Top Colorists strive for constantly....why? Because it is next to impossible to achieve!

TEN DEGREES OF DECOLORIZATION
See the 10 degrees of decolorization? Those are the stages the hair goes thru as it loses its color or as the color is taken out with lighteners…bleach, etc. Not all hair will go through the 10 degrees, each natural hair color starts the decolorization process at a different stage. Remember, the goal is to create the correct degree of contributing pigment as the foundation for the final hair color result . See figure16-20

BLEACHING POINTERS

In my opinion there is only one way to lighten hair this light, safely… and that is with oil bleach. Here at Killerstrands we offer an amazingOil Bleach Kit, check it out on our website!

The hair needs to be very carefully taken care of when lifting past the yellow stage to white with lightener.

Don't let people put you under a dryer when you have Bleach on your hair that will surely cause damage,
it is absolutely WRONG to use heat with Bleach. Stylists do this sometimes in an effort to buy themselves some 'time' when they are busy.
Just kindly say to your stylist: "No Thank You, I would prefer not be under a dryer"- I don't mind waiting.
DO NOT RUSH LIGHTENING THE HAIR................
Another Red Flag is : Overlapping. If you have previously lightened hair and you re-touch....... you must apply the next batch of lightener 3/4 " away from your previous bleach line....because bleach EXPANDS as it develops and many people are unaware of this fact.The extreme diffusion of color necessary to give hair a white appearance causes excessive damage to the hair strand.
The result is the hair feels a bit “mushy” and will stretch without returning to its original length. When dry, the hair is harsh and brittle usually suffers breakage and will not accept a toner correctly.Treat hair like expensive crystal at this stage. Gleam & THRIVEN can save your hair at this point. I have had to repair so many other Stylists hair...that I have seen - everything, pretty much.

The way to that beautiful “baby blond” or “Marilyn Blond” ?...it can be carefully achieved by lightening the hair to pale yellow and then neutralizing the unwanted undertone (contributing pigment) with a toner.

Look at the 10 degrees on this chart
If hair is dark brown & you want to go blond check out the long route the hair must transition.
Check out where #1.is...you apply lightener and then the hair begins to lighten going up 1 Level at a time on This chart 16-20 to the right here....

So it starts at Brown and then goes to dark red-brown first ( you notice a fast change in the beginning) and at the beginning 20 ,minutes you will notice the hair lightening pretty quickly - heading up the levels from #1 to #2 ...to #3...to #4... to #5... to #6 at Level 6 it gets stuck and sits there for about the last 25 minutes. The GOLD molecule is very difficult to lift, which is why so many of you end up with Gold/Blorange/Brass hair !

This photo is after 1 bleach application.

At this point you must take the initial application of Oil lightener off Rinsing with cool water...for 5-10 minutes. Then a very light quick shampoo, then rinsiing again. Dry the hair and re-apply for application # 2.

Mix Oil Bleach Up Again Re-Apply for a 2nd and most times a 3rd application. But checking for health and strength after each application . Crib Colorists - ALWAYS ALWAYS have a set of helpings hands with you. Never Lighten alone.

See in this photo the virgin Brown hair color ???? The gold piece underneath is 2 bleaching's and the section on top is done, we call it the color of frozen butter when wet as a guide for what to look for . When its finished it does NOT LOOK WHITE, it still appears a bit brassy. So make note of that.

These are levels hair must go through in that climb (the most common complaint I hear is "Blorange" hair)
Basically that comes from the fear of leaving lightener on too long. Or not applying the lightener enough times. But if you really want to master this and get your timing down. Buy a swatch of your hair color (some extensions) and do a practice run at home. If I receive enough request for TEST strips I will be happy to carry them.
Send us an email: Killerstrands.info@gmail.com

Check out all the colors of Blonde, which is your favorite?

It is NOT completely easy to understand how the hair coloring process takes place, but I promise you if I can learn to grasp it.....then certainly YOU can !

You just have to promise me you will read this post more than once. You know how I know you can grasp it? I went to Hair Academy when I was 40 years old. I was the oldest one in the whole Academy .....older than every teacher.......older the administration and older than the Director....I had already raised my kids and experienced a 15 year career as a Stunt Woman in Hollywood. I even have a Stunt Award - which is our equivalent to a Academy Award, when I won mine they were televised, but no more.

I knew ZERO about hair. Absolutely frickin' nothing - and- I finally understood it.
How?
By reading and re-reading my notes from school. The repetition is the key. It WILL sink in and make sense.
That is what I want you to do until you understand it, that is what they taught me and damn it, they were right.

Oxidative Hair Coloring -
That is what almost every hair color that we use today is called, this post is extremely important for you to understand how hair color works, no its not easy to understand but please come back to this post every now and then so you can read and review it.

Oxidation:
1.The reaction of dye intermediates found in

hair coloring developers with hydrogen peroxide 2. The interaction of hydrogen peroxide on the natural pigment.

Deposit:
describes the color product in terms of its ability to add color pigment to the hair. Color added equals DEPOSIT.
Lift: The lightening action of a hair color or lightening product on the hair's natural pigment

Hydrogen Peroxide:
An Oxidizing chemical made up of 2 parts hydrogen & 2 parts oxygen (H2O2) used to aid the processing of permanent hair color and lighteners. Also referred to as a developer by Stylists/Colorists; available in liquid or cream.

Now we move to the Hydrogen Peroxide the "white creme" in the other bottle! There is also violet as you see above which is used in fighting brass in Blondes! Killerstrands little store is the only online store selling it so please click on the photo to a direct link.

Within the BOXED KITS OF COLOR (I'm on the war path against) there are 2 items enclosed, one is a bottle of color the other a bottle of peroxide.

Blonding:
The percentage of Lift in any color is directly related to its AMMONIA content. At times you will hear Color lines boasting of "no ammonia" which only means they are using ANOTHER chemical to do the same exact thing - (it baffles me why people think : 'that's better').

There are a couple similar ingredients but - mostly they use MEA). Or, it is a brown or blackish type color and there is no "lifting" needed. For example: in many men's color lines promising to cover grey and not change anything else. There is nothing wrong with ammonia - people panic unnecessarily over the name, is my feeling. The true only disadvantage to ammonia in hair color: is - - if - - you are allergic to it, which is rare, but does happen, ammonia does work best for light blonding and lifting.

Oxidation
The percentage of dye content in the bottle is also known as pigment weight. The more dye molecules in the bottle, the more depositing capabilities the color has. The action of depositing dye or color molecules into the cortex of the hair shaft is partly triggered by OXIDATION, which is achieved by adding hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) to the color.
You see..........this is why Developer is absolutely necessary to the hair coloring process.

The KEY to How the Whole Action

of Hair Coloring Takes Place:

The dye molecule in any permanent color is too large to penetrate the cuticle of the hair shaft without first altering its structure with hydrogen peroxide.

Since without hydrogen peroxide the dye will only stain the cuticle layer, understanding what happens when you add hydrogen peroxide to color is essential.
That is also where the difference between Permanent,Semi-permanent, and Temporary color rests.

After the Hydrogen peroxide is added to the color, it begins to oxidize, or lose an oxygen molecule. This creates heat in and on the hair shaft, which expands the cuticle layer so that the color or dye molecules can penetrate.

Once the hydrogen peroxide is completely oxidized, it turns into water (H2O), and its chemical action stops. The color molecules return to their original structure and become part of the structure of the cortex. The cuticle closes, trapping the dye or color molecules inside..........now, the color process is complete.

Don't let me lose you here, this may seem boring/confusing>or BOTH!! but... it will all make sense as you read and re-read it.

If it doesn't, then ask me questions LOTS of them, I want you to get it...I truly do, because if you do... then you will have knowledge that some of the top Colorists in the country possess & that is what ROCKS about teaching.

Be Blonde Before Breakfast

Today?

Bleaching and Highlights !

Today and for the next 10-14 days we will talk about all things "BLONDE"..............so stay tuned for a cool course:

BLEACHING FOR THE STARS

We will talk about my absolute favorite procedure on the planet -->

BLEACHING VIRGIN HAIR
or
BLEACH & TONE

Why do you think this would be my favorite procedure?

The change is so radical it is very rewarding to take brown hair. . . . white with ZERO brass and have it be healthy & shiny.

Two of the most important parts of this process

the product you use

following directions to the T

The reason for my success in hair had a lot to do with 'who' trained me, but also
....following directions to the T. and NOT cutting corners !

I don't skip over steps,

I feel doing the steps perfectly and precisely is important,
in chemistry it is important to apply every step and procedure. If any of you cook or bake...I'm sure you have noticed the difference if you measured your ingredients or if you just guessed when making a specific recipe....
Cooking & Hair Coloring are both chemistry
measuring and following the steps are extremely important.
I have already had some readers try to jump ahead and they have had disastrous results.

Please, if you learn nothing else from me....learn that....to follow directions while learning or applying hair color.

Hair color Chemistry needs to be precise, thorough and meticulous,read and re-read until you get very familiar.
Do not cut corners
hair color chemistry does not work well that way

I even added steps to many of the procedures once I began studying Chemistry and had 6-7 years under my belt.......... finding ways to help the hair stay as healthy as possible. Dealing with Hollywood, I had many clients that wanted to color their hair frequently, so with that as the criteria...their hair needed to be in top condition as well as different colors all the time...so I had to master both.

I find a lot of hair stylists would rather work with "SPEED" being their goal, so they work in volume.
That is one way I suppose..but it does not work in my world.
My biggest problem was time, you cannot be fast when you add steps to what already is a very time consuming process.PREPARATION
For this process you will need OIL BLEACH.
Oil Bleach was a trick from a famous Vidal Sassoon Colourist from England, Annie Humphries…and after many years of doing hundreds of them myself I would never do it any other way.
We have made a complete Oil Bleaching Kit with all of the proper ingredients, including Violet Developer, 2 Applications per Kit, gloves, directions, Oil, a unique Oil/Creme lightener base,etc.

Oil Bleach is used to not only lighten hair but also to protect the scalp from the harshness of bleach .

But the added PLUS from OIL BLEACH is what people do not know....
By adding the oil to the process??? What have I taught you to use on your hair as a deep conditioner? or a "PRE"- conditioner???
OIL...what type matters only a little.....there are some oils that are better than others....but OIL is wonderful for the condition of hair - period.
So once the cuticle is opened, the bleach goes in the hair strand and lightens the pigment/melanin that is in there...with Oil in the mixture, the oil goes in the hair strand as well...which conditions and strengthens the hair while it is lightening --- at the same time. Its an added bonus of the oil bleach.....use it whenever you can.....I have used it on the damaged hair of clients that insist on highlights even though I have told them their hair is too damaged for highlights........if hair is damaged you will protect it by using OIL BLEACH.

It angers me that so many of the companies have tried to push "oil-free" everything on the public, OIL is the best thing on the planet for your hair and your skin. That subject is a very long and passionate post by yours truly, that I will skip for now.Just trust me, Oils are Lipids...there is nothing better for your hair than lipids.

Buy ' Oil Bleach Kit '- Oil Lightening Kit with Creme Base

READ this for Preparation for Bleaching hair:

{ In preparation to color hair of any type….it is said and required for everyone to perform a “strand test” on all hair coloring products. I would be doing a lousy job if I did not mention this. This means you are to mix a tiny amount of the product and apply it to a few strands of hair and to your skin underneath a Band-Aid type application, to see if you have any sort of reaction to it. In over 10,000 HEADS of hair and 15 years, I had 4 people react badly to the hair products and it was to bleach. If you are an allergic type person I would definitely not skip this step. If you are a total virgin to hair color, never had any hair color on your hair or skin. . . . I would also do this step.} By Law, I am required to tell you this and I feel you need to be made aware of it.

TOOLS NEEDED

Towels

Combs

Protective Gloves

Plastic clips

Cape (old Tshirt)

Plastic or Glass Bowl

Shampoo (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate-FREE)

Peroxide 20 & 40 Volume

After Treatment - pH Balancer

4 OZ. measurer beaker

Cotton Rope ( by the yard)

Tint Brush

Oil Bleach Lightener .......

Professional Powder Bleach ...if you plan on coloring hair regularly > buy yourself a tub - it will probably last you a year.

Contact me with your PayPal account Killerstrands@gmail.com

Timer

Protective Cream

Hair Terminology GLOSSARY #1

Color/Tint Remover > prepared commercial product designed to remove artificial pigment from hair (MOD-U-LAT now called Phantom Color Corrector)

Double Process >coloring technique requiring 2 separate procedures, in which the hair is prelightened with lightener, before the deposited color is applied (ex: bleach & tone)

Hair Lightening > chemical process involving the diffusion of natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair; often called bleaching or decolorizing

High Lift Blonde > single process color with a higher degree of lightening action & minimum amount of color deposit

Single Process Hair Color >Oxidative tint Solution that lifts or lightens while also depositing color in one application
Toner > a pastel opaque color used to give hair a desired hue after pre-lightening

Virgin application > Natural hair that has not undergone any chemical or physical or physical abuse

Hydrogen Peroxide / Developers

Let me bring the concepts down … to the planet, a lot of this may seem unnecessary and strange sounding but everything needs to be taught and understood for those of you wanting to professional hair color at home front. All of the info talked about, needs to be said ...so I can refer to it as I head deeper into teaching hair coloring at home, be patient. If you want to learn information that would cost a tremendous amount of $$ plus years of experience, just read and re-read every post. I am teaching all our secrets - I don’t know a soul that would do that.}

Getting down to the nitty-gritty > to make a batch of haircolor to put on hair, this is the picture: You have a bowl…a tint brush …on one side of the bowl is some color ….squeezed out of a tube…on the other side of the bowl…..Is the “white stuff”…..which has no smell until the 2 substances are combined…then POW- mix the 2 things together and it explodes in aroma and changes hair color .

That white stuff is the Developer …or Hydrogen Peroxide. I snicker when I hear that some new hair color is great & wonderful because it doesn’t use peroxide. To me….as a chemist….as a Colorist…the last thing on the planet I would want would be a hair color that does NOT have hydrogen peroxide in it !

The only hair color that does not work with Developer is SEMI-Permanent Hair Color

A developer is an oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidative hair color, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and :

create a change in hair color

Developers, also called oxidizing agents or catalysts, having a pH between 2.5 and 4.5 . Although there are a number of developers on the market, hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is the one most commonly used in hair color.

VOLUME is the measure of the potential oxidation of varying strengths of hydrogen peroxide. The lower the volume, the less lift is achieved; the higher the volume, the greater the lifting action. The majority of permanent hair color products use 10 ,20,30,40 Volume hydrogen peroxide for proper color development.

One of the best little tricks in the world of developer are TINTED versions, in other words we have Blue and Violet Tinted Developers in 20 And 40 Volume which helps when needing any sort of warmth reduction ( too much brass/blorange/Gold) if those are your problems give either Blue or Violet Developer a try.

The Quest For Platinum Continues....

Now you have everything you need and its time to begin. First you are going to want to read and re-read the directions to mixing the oil bleach...its super important to mix it correctly and the way the ingredients go together is different from anything you have mixed together in the hair color world. So again...READ & FOLLOW exactly.

**Add > Plastic Applicator Bottle> to your Equipment list

The consistency of Oil bleach is more liquid-y than any other, so its a little trickier to use and a lot messier ...BUT...just keep in your head "this will make my hair healthier - when it is all said and done".

TRY hard to find a friend or pal of some sort to help you apply this, the back is going to be tricky if you are doing it to yourself, it can be done with mirrors...but be sure to use them if your are doing it to yourself.

Here we go! Read through the entire directions first. then get prepared and if needed read through again.

Divide DRY hair into four sections (see illustration 12-20)

Prepare cotton strips, tear cotton rope into 7-8" strips (have about 40-50 ready) depends on thickness & length

Apply protective cream around the hairline and over the ears.

Put on protective gloves ( 'small' Latex come with the Oil bleach kit - which makes it easy to apply - they are surgeon gloves which I like the best as you can feel the hair as you work)

Prepare the Oil Bleach in bowl, almost always I will mix 2 batches of oil bleach, if you have hair any longer than chin level is a good measure, mix with tint brush and use immediately to prevent deterioration. One of the bigger secrets of bleach is that the majority of its "punch" or "power" takes place all in the first 55 minutes. It has about 20% of its power left after that, but that would mean leaving the bleach on for 2-3 hours to get what you need out of it. Therefore the trick is.... to complete this entire regimen, and if and when "2" APPLICATIONS of BLEACH are necessary( see #11), you take this application off and reapply a brand new one. After years of doing these, you cut time off the process by doing it this way. Promise!

Begin in the Back on one side..................... Have comb, tint brush, cotton strips and lightener set-up....................... I have never done this procedure to myself, always to clients. I have always used a tint brush and bowl. But in reviewing how others accomplish this process, some put the mixture in an applicator plastic bottle. As a rule I do not recommend these bottles, BUT...if you are trying to do this to yourself ( a very brave endeavor I might add!) , I am thinking the applicator bottle might be easier especially for the back. Up to you...purchase the applicator bottle if you decide to... they have them at Sally's. Now be completely ready to go without having one thing interrupt you, this is a time consuming process and needs to be applied as FAST AS YOU POSSIBLY can there is absolutely NO room for breaks.

ILLUSTRATION 12-20(above)

Begin the application on the bottom of one side you are NOT putting it on the roots, you are applying from 1/2"off the scalp and extend the lightener up to, but not through the porous ends.Use 1/4" partings to apply the lightener, applying to the top and underside of the subsection in quick movements. Why? The heat from the head speeds up the processing on the first 1/2": therefore that is the last area you apply to.

Place strips of cotton at the scalp area along the parts to prevent the lightener from touching the base of the hair ( photo 16-51). So you will be 1st applying the bleach 1/2" off the scalp laying the cotton down on the roots to keep the bleach from running down on the roots....on both back sections and then the front sections, moving as quickly as possible. (FAST)

Continue to apply lightener, double checking application adding more if necessary. Do NOT COMB THRU the hair. Make sure all hair is covered and moist, with oil bleach that is hardly a problem....
Now if you have not done a strand test...so that you know how long it takes YOUR hair to get as light as you desire. You will have to keep checking it. To check lightening level use a damp towel and a water spray bottle to Blot do NOT rub -- the strand to look at the color. When its about 15 minutes from being ready...is what you are looking for. I am not sure how to teach you this trick....it comes from experience....and one way around experimenting on your own head if you are hesitant is to order a "Doll Head" they make them with real human hair that are made to color.

The cotton is used to keep the lightener OFF of the 1st inch of the hair, it is important to do that to prevent what they call "hot roots''. Which is where the roots end up lighter than the rest of the hair.

The heat of the head warms the lightener which makes it lighten faster than the rest of the head ....therefore the lightener is kept OFF the scalp until the very last 30-35 minutes.

There is the first half of the procedure .....the second half comes tomorrow...........

I have had a number of requests for formula's and tricks to achieving the Rose-gold Blond look

Normally I would tell you to go to a qualified Colorist but this isn't really that tough. If the

Killerstrands Angel-Rose-Angel BURST Conditioner

directions confuse you - head for the Colorist...but I think if read and re-read my instructions you will find it truly is pretty simple. Before I write on a topic... I will ask my staff if they understand the Post, before I teach it to you...to see how they take it. Its funny but all of them aren't into doing their hair AT ALL! But, they understood this so I am going to give you the education. I know lots of you who would probably love to work here.

Remember I learned hair color when I was old, my first career was as a Stunt.woman in Hollywood..........don't ask me why I made the transition......it was not my choice - believe me. Lets just say I had one angry ex-husband who was a big-shot movie director and he was not happy when I informed him I no longer wanted to be married to a person who chose his his drug/alcohol use above his family . That didn't hit his male ego button very well so he turned on me....... blackballed me in the industry......he told everyone that if they hired me, they would never work for him again. He controlled a lot in that world. But anyway that's enough about that...

What I want you to learn is that if I can learn all of this at an older age... every single one of you can. I am trying to empower everyone of you with the knowledge and instructions on either coloring your hair yourself.............or doing touch-ups for when you can't get in to see your Colorist. There are many of you who live in remote areas and have ZERO access to a decent colorist and are forced to learn to do your own hair. There are many that just can...not or don't want to pay hundreds of dollars every month to do hair you can now learn to do on the Internet.
So when I say read and re-read............the instructions I give, if you don't understand it the first time I say it - then re-read it and then re-read it the next day.......... I say that because that is how I learned. This all was so foreign to me, but just doing some extra reading truly helped me learn a lot of concepts that were completely foreign to anything I had ever done in my life!

So, the trick to becoming rose-blond, is really much easier than one would think. That is because what you do is begin with blonde hair and thin put a rose-blond toner over the hair. You can also put some darker rose-gold pieces in the hair, but for the sake of this post lets just go with 2 formula's for achieving rose gold hair and the use of BOOST & BURST for both upkeep and creating the look. You can create Katy Perry's look at home by starting with blond hair and we have been going over the many zillions of ways there are to achieve blonde hair in the posts over the last couple of weeks. Then applying BURST in Angel-Rose-Angel on just the first 3 inches of the hair in kind of an up & down method... So that is easy and should be solved.

Then you can begin with Blond hair and it can be a Level 8 like Sienna is here

The following look can be achieved by 2 methods of products we carry
You can apply Schwarzkopf in the Candy Pink Pastel 9.5-89

Plus 6, 10 or 13Volume
I would suggest using 6Volume the first time.
Just divide hair in Quarters, apply in tiny sections of the hair
it should like this.....

Now is you were to want a look like this, you would just foil some pieces or ribbons around previously lightened hair :

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/collections/professional-hair-color/products/wella-color-touch-demi-permanent-color

PHOTO - 4A - ROSE HIGHLIGHTS

This would be more difficult, for 1.) you need to begin with Level 11 or 12 hair....Level 12 is what she has. Then this is more "ROSE".............than Pink so you would need to create my secret formula.

Made from Color Touch - - KC's Dark ROSE Formula
Purchase
9/16
&
6/45
+
4-8 ounces of 13Volume Developer

Now the trick to mixing this is this.............YOU CANNOT JUST MIX THE 2 COLORS ! !
One must only use the following formula using the above colors. If you don't do it like this you end up with a mess, but it is NOT THAT HARD!
#1.) Squeeze 1 ounce of 9/16 into bowl.........
#2.) Squeeze 3/4" of an inch of the color coming out the tube ( measure with a RULER) into the bowl. Mix those 2 items together first with a knife.
#3.) Pour 2 ounces of 13Volume Developer into the bowl and MIX WELL.
#4.) Now just apply all over evenly and quickly

outline the section first, that you begin with, with the hair color you are using
the section you start with should be the section in the back or where you want the color to be the darkest.
now just section and part your way up the hair applying the color this formula will look EXACTLY like the ends in Kate Hudson's hair below..... OR put the darker highlights like in the photo 4-A , above...


DARKER ROSE ENDS

Remember BOOST & BURST will keep your ROSE-BLOND Hair all Rosy & Easy. Shampoo leave that in a couple minutes then decide how much color you want from BURST they both have loads of pigment in them.............. so knock yourself out.

Any Questions?

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/colored-shampoos-shampoos-that-fight-unwanted-tones-deposit-enriching-color-while-you-shampoo

Well, I wanted to bring the SPLASH LIGHTS technique
to the forefront again...I think its a beautiful technique (no it should not be tried at home) - very subtle and easy to get out of.... but the main reason that I bring it to the forefront you will see at the very end and the last photo !

So check it out

and here is the very best SPLASHLIGHTS technique of the month..........and maybe of the year . . . .

The Mom from the Baltimore Riots ! ! !
smackin' up her kid . . . I just loved it and wish things weren't so touchy now-a-days, that's why kids don't respect parents (so much) any longer .... that was the 2nd best thing to come out of that disaster.

Become a Crib Colorist : Learn the Level System of Hair Color

Hair Colors + Cuts + 2015

Brunette to Platinum + PASTELS - Photo Journal DEMO

New Color Spring 2015

Wella Introduces the Very First Demi-Permanent Pastel Hair Color - Instamatics Are Here and are Gorgeous

Create natural-looking highlights with Wella's new foil-free Blondor Freelights.

Use it for Ombre or Balayage hair

As you can see by these photos 3 colors have been weaved through the blonde hair, see how beautiful it looks?

Pink

Mauve + Amethyst

Now here are the 6 colors:

Ocean Storm

Muted Mauve

Pink Dream

Smokey Amethyst

Jaded Mint

Clear Dust

These are Color Touch Colors so you would be using 6 & 13 Volume Developer and processing for 35-45 minutes. They quote 25 minutes as they do with all Color Touch colors but I have always found processing 40-50 minutes makes the color last longer

Here are the 2 balayage spatula's

you apply the spatula underneath the hair, then use the tint brush and paint on lightener in little strips that look like this:

that work something like above, again...my choice is foils but I am going to try this for fun next time the chance arises itself !

We have a kit that has a complete photo tutorial that shows you how to do this with foils. I call it the Ribbons of light Kit or the Victoria's Secret model hair !!!! ha ha

Once you lighten the little strips to blond, you then can apply any of the new and very cool Instamatics by Wella 's Color Touch line.

The hair above has slices of blonde first then Pink Dream and Mauve applied to them, see how subtle it can be, I just think it is beautiful, how about you?

Most Misunderstood Fact About Hair Color

50 Shades of High-lift Blond's

Double Process Blonding and What it Is.

Blee-atched Blonding Hair Coloring - Platinum Hair - DEMO DISCUSSION

Hues That Girl? The Shampoo Train - Hair Color Removal 101

Whoops, now what?

Bleaching Hair At Home - Correctly : Becoming a Crib Colorist

BECOME A CRIB COLORIST -- Learn The "Level System" - Its Very Important to Know What Level Hair YOU Have ?

How In Hell the Color Wheel Relates to Hair Color - Master Becoming A Crib Colorist

Becoming a Brilliant Crib Colorist - Blonding & Its Warnings

How Hair Coloring & Blonding Works

BLEACHING For The Stars : Complete Directions on Professional Hair Bleaching

Hydrogen Peroxide Speaks Volumes !....Hair Color Can't Live Without It

Bleach for the Stars - Part 1 - Oil Bleach DEMO Application

Rose-Gold Blond Formula's + Tricks + Upkeep

Splash-Lights Hair Color Technique Makes Nationwide TV Debut @ Baltimore Riots