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New Years SALE Sunday & Monday, January 3 & 4 ! PLUS "May The Glitter Be With You" - Triple Infusion of microglitter in BURST

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 A Cool little New Years Sale for those of you in need of some great hair products, Skin Oils, and Hair Color in specific Colors. 

They will all be  35%OFF  . . . . something you never see here at Killerstrands !   stay tuned in for that 
January 3 & 4th!
 
Sign-up for our Newsletter (over in the sidebar --> ) for the details & code needed





 HAPPY NEW HAIR one and ALL

We have a beautiful new addition to our wonderful BOOST & BURST team. 

Along with the BURST SPARKLE we have had for a while, this version has triple the infusion of micro-glitter. We have found this works well if you can get away without blow drying your hair. Also we have found with certain


Makes sense right? Using 100 mile an hour wind - close-up, from a blow-dryer on the hair is for sure, going to blow the teeny tiny micro-glitter off. But it sure looks cool if you can get away with it. I found when I used it and twisted my hair into the beachy waves look I talk about in one of my Posts, it works great!

Then there is a second way it works wonderfully... if you don't have coarse hair, coarse is the hair that is super thick. . .  it takes holding the curling iron on it for 3 minutes and it still barely holds the curl !.....so if you don't have that then you are also a great candidate for the  "force-be-with-you SHOT OF GLITTER" ! !  



 



 Happy New Hair to all of you
KC


 

Part 2 : Difference In Professional Hair Color + Public Color ? - Description of Koleston Perfect & Quality Hair Color !

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Difference in Pro Hair Color 
& Public Hair Color?

NOTHING Secretive that's for sure !  

. . . . . . .  its the ''Quality'' of the Color 

& the QUALITY of the Developer ! !

and that’s it. . . . . . there are no tricks and no secret information Hair Stylists have or receive -- as they make you feel like, which took a long time for me to come to terms with...a LONG LONG Time ! Yes we received an education, but if you didn't pay attention in school most likely you will pass your State BOARD TEST ! ! !

The article below is the original one with some updates to it AND, the answer to the same question I receive over and over ...... In regards to MY EXPLANATION REGARDING THE DIFFERENCE's BETWEEN the QUALITY issue between PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR and PUBLIC HAIR COLOR ??

WHY DO YOU THINK THEY WOULD GO TO ALL THAT TROUBLE OF HIDING IT of not making professional hair color available to the public for all these years?   Like in Europe you can purchase Wella's hair color's at the local drug store but they are made like the lower quality level we have here, which is calledColor Perfect and Color Charm (Sally's Wella's colors).

I have explained in non ending explanations about how the ingredients in each of the hair color lines made available to the Hair Stylists who have spent 1-4 years training, & giving them a State Board issued test that certifies each of us as to whether or not we deserve to purchase "professional hair color at wholesale prices". This system has been within our government since hair color and hair stylists were born. Every year I receive a bill for $66.00/ for my yearly dues. In California we have the most hair stylist licenses in the USA given out, it is over 1 million. I often wonder why we never hear of where the money from every state's Cosmetology Board goes to ? ? ? I know its not Billions but money doesn't have to be "billions" to be "a-Lot " ! Imagine if you added every state's Board's money up.... that would be in the billions and that is each and every year. I mean who came up with this idea of having the top quality - high-end....LUXURY hair color ONLY to be made available to the Professional Stylists.
I go on and off ...........about thinking about,  whether its a good idea or not?!?!


People write me over and over and I would like to put the question to rest, with this....
They, I guess, either go grasp a professional color and grasp a Sally's brand of color. They see ''like'' ingredients in both, so they think my theory is debunked !  

But, that is not at all what I am referring to. Remember I spent nearly 3 years making hair conditioners, Lotions, Lip gloss, make-up, shampoos, color shampoos & conditioners a very long time ago!  I learned all of this fantastic information from a famous cosmetic chemist who used to have a weekly online education forum that many of us who are super serious about "HOW" our personal care products are made, learned & studied under. I tore apart formula's and learned from the bottom on up...how to make these products, all the way to how they MUST BE LABELLED FOR FDA APPROVAL!

I learned that as long as there was 1 gram of any ingredient in a product...you were allowed to apply it's name to your ingredient list on the rear label.. 1 gram is less than a tear drop, wwwwwway less. Which means if one company has Rose Hips Seed Oil in their Dry hair oil at 38% (like we do in Gleam) and another has 1/2 Gram - the product will not only be nothing like GLEAM, if you add products like silicone's ( that are now hidden under all sorts of weird name's) to that "Duplicate" product it will take that 1 Gram of Rose Hips Seed OIl and mess up all its dynamic qualities. 

Plus, 1st of all . . . .You cannot tell me you can find 2 products made by 2 separate Large corporate competing company's that have the EXACT same ingredient List. There are so many elements. Look at the developers their are luxury developers and cheap developers so when thos are mixed with lousy brand of hair color you really don't have a chance. 

You MUST MUST MUST try to spend as much as possible using top quality hair products...do your research, become educated in the world of hair. As far as I've seen every single one of you . . . .LOVE'S YOUR HAIR  ! !  !!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Applying the color to the hair through a bottle or the more proper method of, a tint bowl and a brush is about the only other major difference, I think there is. Using a Tint brush you can apply pressure to the strands which forces the hair color into the strands and produces a more''even''color , in my humble opinion. Every top Colorist in the world uses the Tint brush method for that reason. 

Procedures change in the hair color world for a reason. 
Usually that reason is -“THEY  FIGURED OUT THEY WORK MUCH BETTER ! "

For those of you who are brunette's I notice this color line never sells and it is one of the most used brunettes I used when I did hair, so PLEASE PLEASE consider the Brown Red-Violet hair color line series, mixed with a Neutral -- you will have the hottest brunette in the world.   it is Gorgeous!

The BRV Series which you see here is a Brown-Red-Violet… a gorgeous warm brown, I wouldn’t say the Red-Violet is anything monumental just very subdued – perfect – these are all amazing colors, if you want more of a jolt of either the red or the violet you would use this as the base of your formula.
Lets say you want a Level 6 BRV as your “desired color”, with more of a jolt of Violet to it than just this mellow version they give you.     
I would use:  1 ounce of 7BRV ( because of how dark the colors run) 
+ 1/2 ounce of 0/66VV (violet booster) =
most likely with 20 Volume ( must answer the Killer 8 to know that)

 Wella KP 2010 chart166
Now on the other hand if you basically wanted a nice Level 5 BRV but with a little punch more of RED
I would choose a Base of
6BRV - 1 ounce ( we called this color Heather for years)
 and then add to 6BRV
+1/2 ounce to 1 ounce of  6/45 – 6RRV.
Both of these colors have a corresponding color in Color Touch, which is what is so easy to use to refresh the ends. 

Back when my hair was miraculously groomed, I would always refresh my lengths 2 weeks after the main color. Which is exactly what all those celebrities with their never-ending gorgeous looking hair do. . . I would show up at their door with my entire mobile hair color silver metal Case ( its made to hold rifles, but worked great for my ‘traveling color business’ which was a large part of my business just before my diagnosis . We all know reds fade quicker than any other color…but using them in this manner with BROWN as the main hue, that problem won’t be an issue.  

I know it might seem odd to you but I really want to try to get through to everyone, that when you are planning your formula for your next hair color or any hair color for that matter…the idea is not to pick out the color you want from hair color swatches. The idea is to pick colors that will counter the problems you are having…. say if your DURP is brassy, yet you want a pleasant – more mellow – GOLD……..you do not pick colors from the GOLD page of the chart. That would be disastrous.
I would choose “N” series if the brass isn’t too bad if it is then I would pick a color from either the /71 BA series ( Brown Ash)- which is my most used category, it fights most issues and turns out beautiful browns. Also the next page which is the /07 NB series – which stands for NEUTRAL BROWN...awesome colors that fight most common issues the NB series...Neutral Brown a very straight-up Brown – the Frosty Brown collection.

Wella KP 2010 chart163

This Series came out right about the same time the /71 BA series came out - - everyone was thrilled as they had finally put in 1 tube what every person I know was making. I mean mixing > 1/2 ounce of 8N and 1/2 ounce of 8 B
= makes 8NB.
Which was one of my most commonly used combo’s.
Another great brown?
7N  + 7A + 7 M + 7B  = 7BAMN………..awesome and it covers gray wonderfully if needed, or the color in general is superb. No need to switch it up for non-gray or Gray. Just a good-to-know straight-up-Bombshell BROWN  . . . just trying to show you how to formulate not using the prettiest hair color swatches. 

At my stations in the Salon - these color swatch boards were prohibited. If you don’t understand how they are made and how the Level system works then they are really pointless.  The way to get clients hair the exact right color they want is by using colors that fight the hairs objectionable tendencies, such as ‘reds’-‘oranges’ ‘brass’ etc.. and for that you must choose the color swatches that are not very “pretty”….they can’t be…in order to fight “red tones” the brown needs to be ‘green’ based, not exactly a pleasing-to-the-eye color. 

I feel,  that is where a lot of the problems stem from with both Crib Colorists & Stylists getting the end hair color  > wrong. So I will just keep trying to explain it in different ways – hoping everyone will continue to read it. What I discovered when I  learned cosmetic chemistry – was – to just keep reading the part I didn’t understand over and over -  I swear it will sink in, I know that because a whole lot of Crib Colorists have been born from that exact method. Repetition breeds comprehension, is my line.
And lastly we have Wella’s RED’s which is pretty much a straighter shooter:

Wella KP 2010 chart165

I use and love every red on this page, Wella is famous for having the best “reds” in the business, and I agree whole heartedly. They are all beautiful. The categories of red are:
  • R -- Red
  • GR – Gold/Red
  • RG -- Red/Gold
Which ever letter is ‘first’ is the more predominant color in the tube. I mean to me a GR and an RG are completely different. I almost always will use the R and RG categories – because of my dislike for “gold” in most heads of hair. The reason I don’t like Gold? Clients don’t like it, its not really flattering to anyone’s skin or eyes either.

Wella came out with this new technology a few years back, for their “RED” colors calling it: “INNOVATIVE  REDVOLUTION”:  meaning their red shades contain a 5 sided molecular structure that reflects red light and provides a deeper and more dense penetration of color into hair structure. As usual I didn’t believe it at first, but once I began using it, they were pretty right-on. Don’t go too much on the EXACT colors you see on these charts here, if your computer monitor isn’t set to the exact same numbers as mine is – well its not going to look the same

But I am so glad to bring these all to you, so you may have the complete picture of colors offered.

 Happy NEW YEAR!
Killer Chemist

The Start of the Crib Colorist Militia ! The Killer 18 Questions!

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If you would like to joinGET ANSWERS TO THESE QUESTIONS REGARDE   - begin using our products and I will give you my formula to the answers you give ... to the following "Killer18 Questionnaire!"






The Killer 18 ...........Questions for hair color formula for me to use to analyze your hair and future formula Selection when you have previous hair color on, I need to know the answers to these questions in order to give you a better formula


    Texture ?
    Length of hair ?
    Ethnicity ?
    Is Hair VIRGIN?
    Hair Bleached ?
    Porosity ?
    Boxed Color?

    How many?
    Percentage of Gray?
    What Type of Color is on ...Box?
    Professional?  Straightener? Ever?
    D.U.R.P. - Dominant-Underlying-Remaining-Pigment ?
    Your opinion ...Resistant? or Not?
    Used HENNA/NATURAL claim' products that don't work??
    Virgin Color - Level & Tone ?
    Current Color - Level & Tone?
    Desired Color - Level & Tone ?


    For the best help... PLEASE send me 3-4 photos of hair profile/back/roots/long distance
    in "NATURAL Light ! " 























 











Questions for Hair Color Killers,

 lets conquer solving our hair color formula's !

Send your answers ( no longer than 6-8 words per answer) writing a book does NOT help me, I promise . . . 

I only need the basics.,

KC 

The 1st Step Towards A New Hair Color Formula . . . . the SHAMPOO TRAIN

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SHAMPOO TRAIN
Well, boys & girls. . . the Number 1 Topic for the entire month of January, so far. I guess, because its a New Year and people want to start over or Start a-New??? ..........is the most talked about subject with just about everyone I speak to - Getting old hair color out of your hair and starting over...........or
in other words: how to begin getting a Hair Color formula that will be healthy and shiny? ?

I want to reiterate how super important it is to REMOVE ( and I mean completely remove the old lousy hair color you presently have) BEFORE starting over again. I swear on my children's lives this is not a ridiculous ploy just to get you to buy stuff from us. I swore when I began this whole parade that I would not "sell-out" like that. MY main mission here is:
To help all of you achieve a proper hair color formula.    

I talk about this method because through the over 10,000 Heads of hair I colored in the Salon ... I tried every trick in the book on my clients and the only way to start over again with top notch hair color is to completely remove the old crappy hair color you presently have on there. Yes, its going to be a bit pricey & Time consuming.....but just THINK, what you are trying to do ! You are trying to remove "PERMANENT HAIR COLOR"  ! ! !                                                         
If its "permanent'' then how in the Hell are we removing it?

 When you put that crappie color "in" all you wanted was for it to COVER your silver hair, remember ? So at the time....it was "whats darker is better"...or what sticks is better........ right?? but I have come up with a trick that helps you cut the color removal process  (almost) in half ! Of course you will need to purchase the boxes of VANISH - there is no getting around those.....what I try to help with is having to use as few as is possible. You may always return any boxes of VANISH ( as long as they are unused - of course).

Yes, its more work
No, its not easy and not quick
Yes, if you want it to be as easy & quick as possible - you may by purchasing 4-8 boxes of VANISH. 

Spend one weekend.......... beginning Friday night ..........and just Apply VANISH Treatment AFTER Treatment to your hair along with using the Travel Bonnet Hair Dryer and applying HEAT for the 30 minutes you have the Liquid concoction on your hair. Then by late Sunday afternoon - if you TEST your color and it pasts the test ...........you may re-color your hair and you are all set!

I want to talk about exactly how to go about the Shampoo TRAIN... so that the theory sinks into everyone's body / mind & Soul  !  !  

Why do people talk about it so much? .............because when new people arrive at the PEARLY GATES of Killerstrands..............
They read 10-15 Posts.....feel like I make sense and decide to change over to our way of hair coloring and doing things.
 THAT is what all you newbies are learning and going through and we love that about Killerstrands. We have a constant stream of new people discovering us. We do not advertise, I happen to not like it when a website I was shopping at all of a sudden starts following me around the Internet as I continue to shop.....so, for 2 reasons.....1) I think that is a rude and an obnoxious way of advertising AND 2) advertising on the web is expensive. So, I am going to hope that all of you will help us by just mentioning our name and if you would like a few business cards we will be happy to send a few with your next order ....just request them in the "notes" section as you check-out!

So for coloring hair with us this begins 1st and foremost by removing the OLD hair color from your present strands of hair. This is super important if you want to really start FRESH. I receive countless questions about this subject, no matter how hard I try to explain it. So, I will never quit explaining it, I will however try different methods of explaining it trying to get into everyone's heads the importance of completely removing the present hair color and how to accomplish it correctly quickly and thoroughly!  
The Bad News :
there is no cheap & fast way to do this.
The GOOD News?
Once you go through this process, & take the time to do it right............you will be one of the happiest people on planet earth. I can tell through emails how ecstatic people are when that old color begins to come out....they start to tell me this:
" KC my hair is starting to feel like real hair again, it no longer feels like straw"....
I have heard this thousands of times, so you need to just trust me.
You only have to do this once, because once you do this and feel the substantial change in the way your hair feels.....you will never look back. 

So, place your order for 1 VANISH Kit (the Kit has all these little weird things you need to complete the applications) and the rest VANISH boxes ( a lot of people purchase all VANISH KITS but its up to you !) while you are waiting for your VANISH to get to you, I have devised another method of old hair color removal that you can begin TODAY ! I used to use this on my hair models....
These were young women who had the best hair on planet earth and we would color it red for a magazine shoot one week, then we would want to use her for a different commercial 3 weeks later for blonde hair...so I would have her hop on the SHAMPOO TRAIN immediately, until the boxes of VANISH got to her. 
So you may start the minute you stop reading this. Go in the bathroom , look under your sink, look for the crappiest oldest - lousiest made shampoo (you want this shampoo to be WITH sulfates - because  sulfates FADE hair color) and this is the most gentle way of removing hair color - next to VANISH ! By using Shampoo WITH sulfates.

People like to fight me on this idea, they want to purchase 1 box of VANISH and think that will be enough to remove the past 5-10-15 years of boxed hair color they have been piling on their head.Think about that....that is silly to think that.....because 1 box will remove 1- 2 applications.......but I bet you applied it about 6-8 times a year. 

You need to be realistic with this. I have watched many a Hair Stylist around me not go to the lengths of trouble that I was taught to do to remove old crappie hair color before re-applying new professional hair color. I do......... to remove old hair color FIRST.....before applying another color....ONLY to get themselves in a GIGANTIC MESS. and have the new color turn out green or some other God awful mess. So, please trust me on this.

It is as important to go through removing your old hair color properly .........

as it is coming up with your new formula.

So. please take the time necessary to remove the old hair color all the way. I came up with the Shampoo Train because many times the models would be on location somewhere and would not be in the same city as me......... and they would ask me, "what can I be doing to work towards removing my hair color while we wait for me to get back to L.A.???
It hit me almost immediately when she asked me that.... as I tried to think of a GENTLE hair color remover.....and realzed that all those shampoo's that I have condemned to the trash or under the sink....could now be put to work. So about 15 years ago I had a hair model start shampooing her hair, scrubbing the lengths of the hair back and forth really hard. Then piling more shampoo on top creating even bigger lather  - apply plastic cap ( with suds still in hair) and she slept with it in. In the morning she called me so thrilled, you'd think I had discovered the cure for cancer. She did this for the next 5-6 days still flew home and I was BLOWN away. 
A NEW PROCESS WAS FORMED... the Shampoo TRAIN. 

Just use lousy shampoo, or chlorine pools, the sun, the Malibu DDL packet , CPR (Color Pigment Reducer) and QUICK FIX or Color Correction packets...........they all can be used alternately with Shampoo Train for hair color removal.....but just realize how important this step is.

The SHAMPOO TRAIN..............which btw you can now GOOGLE and it will give you your answer!
 I only tell you this because I want you to only have to go through this whole she-bang once .....and only once !  In all my years of doing hair color less than 20 % could get away with using only 1 box of VANISH (which is 2 applications) .
You really want to rush through this ?....................NNNNNooooooooooooooooo!

Lets try to begin doing procedures correctly NOW and continue doing them correctly, so that from here on forward you are following the
CRIB COLORIST MILITIA Regimen
of Healthy Hair + Proper Hair Coloring

 OK?

If you start out correctly then every time you color your hair the Results will be spectacular ! !  
You simply need to follow the super simple rules for application/formulating and processing times, each and every time and not slip into BAD HABITS then you will have that Runway MODEL Hair Color. Please do not cut corners when learning Crib colorist Techniques. I already have skimmed them as low as you can go and still have high quality - so start reading more as you sit there with a big pile of shampoo suds and a cap on your hair and you are removing hair color molecules as we speak.

Crib Colorist Militia is being formed ...........stay tuned....!
 



How To Get Yourself Out Of A Panic Hair Color Mess

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Here is a perfect example of a problem I hear about 20 - 40 times a day.... everyday. This is a true story and I have just changed the name

I just want an example of what you should do  - - so you do not end up with an even worse mess by "covering up" a hair color GONE WRONG.

I think this is 1 point I have never talked about before, but the last thing you should do when you have a mistake on your hands in regards to your hair color, is....DO NOT COVER IT UP WITH ANOTHER HAIR COLOR. That just adds another coat of paint to an already wrong color underneath. Layers of bad color just make things worse. The idea to recovery? 
Bad Hair Color Removal

Question by a Blog reader:
I really need to know of a box color that is the equivalent of ION 8N & 8G. Sally's gave me horrible advice and gave me Wella color charm T18 toner. However instead of a nice blonde I have completely gray hair! I have a ton of coupons for box color because I have so much hair it takes 2 HELP PLEASE


Now here is my answer - to her - to YOU - to EVERYONE.
Please Do NOT PANIC and cover it up, nothing could be worse.....and when I hear people say , can I use "this" color - just because they have it o"ON-HAND"....it just makes me want to cry.
WHY? Because there is a reason you have it just sitting around and that reason is BECAUSE its a BAD HAIR COLOR otherwise you would have used it up by now.  Stop and think about what I have said, because its the truth. 


I have met tens of thousands of people in my hair coloring career and I have learned 1 thing from talking to people who have more money than GOD and people who live paycheck to paycheck.....
EVERY SINGLE PERSON CARES MORE ABOUT THEIR HAIR THAN THEY DO ABOUT their own GROCERIES. If I give them the option of scrimping on their groceries for a couple weeks over having shitty hair color...... they all choose : scrimping on their own groceries for a couple weeks !  
 People choose having beautiful hair color over almost everything....
So, if that is the case, why are you willing to use a $9 box of hair color that will for sure, 
trash your hair beyond belief ? 
I know this because I have spent my career removing boxed hair color.
The very first thing people tell me when box hair color comes out?

" omg my hair feels like "my hair" again...
Thank you sooo MUCH"

 I'm sorry, I do not mean to be harsh but I want you to stop and think before you get in more trouble than you already are....anf if I am nice and kind and don't use some of the words I am using - I feel I will lose your attention....if I haven't already!
but I would never in my life recommend box hair color for anyone........for A-N-Y-T-H-I-N-G.  I receive hundreds of complaints about boxed hair color every single day of every single month month of every single year for the past 16 years....


Its why Istarted a Petition to BAN BOX HAIR COLOR from being sold.
 Most Hair Stylists like the fact that you have to come to them to get your hair color fixed, because Hair Color Correction is the most expensive service on our LIST OF SERVICES !  

But for me. . . . IT BREAKS MY HEART . . . to hear these stories. To listen to so many people so sad and so frantic to find a solution - ANY SOLUTION.... Read the question at the top again . . . see how frantic people become and she is is mild compared to many, It breaks my heart that so many people are so distraught about their hair color being ruined by Sally's or BOXED color I don't know which one is worse. But being as Sally's is a billion dollar company, I'm sure it is going NO-where - so I felt if maybe I brought attention to the fact that boxed hair color is the wrong answer - maybe somebody would listen to me.


 Any color system that has no choice gives the purchaser less than a 30% chance of the color being correct. That is not very high. There is a way to sell hair color to the masses, but people would be required to read a page of directions. . you MUST be able to choose the hair color and the Volume of the developer for YOUR hair situation or you will for sure end up in a giant mess. You have to read directions to put your vacuum cleaner together or even  a piece of furniture from IKEA.......... why can't people be required to read a page of directions before they purchase a hair color system? So they have a 80% chance of the color coming out correctly.????
 
What I am trying to do is help people get OUT of messes.
 Now for what you have right now, covering it up with boxed hair color is not how you get out of that mess. . .

That is what gets people in messes where they end up having to go to the Salon for very expensive "COLOR CORRECTION" procedures, i KNOW ..........I used to do them... Now that I am on this end of the problem I see exactly how people end up in these situations, which many times I did not understand before.

 So, if you could please just take a few breaths and just do some reading here it will get you out of your mess without having to create more of one.
If you really hate the color you have please begin doing a process called the shampoo train. If you put another color on top you have a high percentage of creating an even larger disaster.

In the Salon when someone comes to us with a Color Correction issue, the first thing we do is use a Color REMOVER - which is called VANISH and we sell it in our store if you want to purchase some, one box has 2 applications and no it is not a cheap product but what it is --- is a MIRACLE product. It reverses the way the hair got inside of your hair strands, without bleach + without peroxide + without one thing that damages the hair. It truly is a miracle product. As it shrinks the hair color molecules ..... they go back  OUT OF THE HAIR STRANDS, and go down the drain.
WITH ABSOLUTELY NO DAMAGE INCURRED.
As a matter of fact your hair will feel more like your hair USED to, people tell me all the time.
So I would truly think about making that investment.

Because having trashed hair is the #1 worst thing to have in my book.....and according to all the questions I have asked my clients along the way every single one of you agrees with me!

When its trashed...... everyone can see it, every-single-day of your life. So, before you run out there and create more problems for yourself, please consider my suggestion.
Then while you are waiting for VANISH to ARRIVE AT YOUR DOOR.....


You may begin with the Shampoo Train.Which is a series of repetitive shampooing with the crappiest shampoo you can find.
WHY you ask? Because Shampoo with sulfates will not damage your hair, what it will do is REMOVE HAIR COLOR which is why we don't use it to begin with but everyone has one bottle of shitty shampoo under their sink...if not borrow some...

Shampoo with LOTS of shampoo create a giant lather and rub the hair and shampoo between the hands really hard, then put more shampoo on make a gigantic suds ball pile it on top of your head, put a plastic cap - shower cap- or some type of cap and leave it there

overnight even.

While you are waiting for VANISH the Shampoo Train is something I invented when I used to do hair models hair and they had to switch colors all the time but they weren't in the same city as me.....so until they got to me I had them do the shampoo train to loosen the color molecules so when they finallyu got back to LA I found many times I would only need 1 box of VANISH when I normally needed 2. What it did for me was SAVE ME TIME! !
But, what it does for youa? ? ? ? ?  Is SAVE YOU MONEY ! ! !
Some people ( most people need more than 1 box of VANISH) 

 If you have layers of hair color on your hair, you will need at least 2 boxes which is 4 applications. 
The idea?
Is to get the lousy color out, begin reading this BLOG so you can learn HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR HAIR COLOR THE CORRECT METHOD and then never need it again.

Then While you are waiting for your VANISH read every Post about the hair color you are trying to become, my best suggestion once again? Read the Blog from cover to cover.....you get a FREE MINI Cosmetology class and learn how to properly color your hair- which is my MISSION with this BLog and My Store.

Reachin for Bleachin' - Why Is My Hair Yellow & Not Beige-Blonde ??

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How light is "white"
when bleaching the hair the only answer is "WHITE"

Lighteners /Decolorizing

Lighteners are the chemical compounds that lighten hair by decolorizing the natural hair pigment. I try to explain hair color education in as many ways as I can possibly think of to help everyone understand the theory behind it. I like you to understand so it helps you learn how to get yourself out of problem situations. I listen to how distraught everyone is and it really breaks my heart, so the more I teach the more I want you to do your part and READ ! !

 Picture color in tubes, and lets just say the tubes are hair strands.....those hair strands ( or tubes are filled up with hair color or pigment that your hair naturally has, or you have purt in there by applying some of your old hair color applications....
 Make sense so far?
Then here comes the Tint brush with the lightener and developer mixed with it to be applied to those tubes....or hair strands.....as soon as the lightener formula (powder or liquid) is mixed with the hydrogen peroxide, it begins to release oxygen. This process is known as oxidation, they call permanent hair color of ANY type ....OXIDATIVE hair coloring.....because of that process that takes place at just that moment.... and it is permanent.......because it occurs within the cortex of the hair shaft.

Hair lighteners are used to create a very light blonde shade that is not achievable with permanent hair color and it is referred to as Bleach. Bleach means lighten if you look the word up up in the dictionary....it does not mean all the terrible things everyone has conjured up in your minds. The one and only reason you have terrible things conjured up is beCAUSE some damn hairstylist has applied bleach and then done what you are not supposed to do she OVERLAPS it the next time she gives you a re-touch..... and havbing lightened hair means you are NOT supposed to lighten it on top of the already lightened part AGAIN ! ! ! You are only supposed to lighten the dark part...... and THAT is what gives you a bad feeling about Bleach. Its the Hair Stylist who applied it incorrectly.



Otherwise bleach is the single most useful and most handy product in a Colorists arsenal for changing hair color - PERIOD !

The lightest color one can achieve using hair color is with the type of color calledHIGH LIFT BLONDING. Every line has their own version of HIGH LIFT blonde tones that ‘claim' to lift 4-5 Levels by using this tube of color plus a double dose of 40 Volume Developer.

Something I have found not to be true.....
 
...So there are 2 ways of going very blonde.....
#1) High lift Blonde's ( which you will NOT find in a HAIR COLOR KIT) these must be purchased as a tube of color and the developer SEPARATELY.
or
#2)Bleach or Lightener: In Powder, Creme, Liquid or Oil form.

As a seasoned colorist I have learned that very few of them actually do lift that much color, especially when you are dealing with the entire head or large sections of hair.. When doing something small like highlights most likely you can get the 4 -5 levels of lift (lightening) as you are using foils ( which add HEAT > Heat helps color work faster - and more intensely - altho it is tougher on the condition of the hair) …it all depends on the texture and porosity as well ...just like in all lightening procedures.

THE DECOLORIZING PROCESS, which in common terms is bleaching!



The hair goes through different stages of color as it lightens as you can see in FIGURE 16-19. The amount of change depends on :

· how much pigment the hair has ( how light or dark)
· the strength of the lightening product
· the length of time it was processed
- the texture of the hair
- the porosity of the hair.....etc....

During the process of decolorizing ( Bleaching), natural hair can go through as many as 10 stages FIGURE 16-20. The most common problem? would be when you see yellow hair..which would mean what? Check the stages....
As the hair is lightened....it works its way up the chart... if it stops at "gold"level 7 or even "yellow/gold"level 8...
it means whatever lightener has been used  has not been left on long enough....
Most people do not understand that....I think I have 20 questions alone just today (1/26/2016 )  about why their hair is yellow and what should they do about it.....

Be very careful . . I am not promoting everyone going out and leaving bleach on for hours and hours...or putting it on 2-3 times - like I do.
It takes constant monitoring...it needs to be washed off the minute it hits level 9 or 10 if you can.
But it can move from one level to another WITHIN 60 seconds !!
Are you READY for that? 
TO MOVE THAT QUICKLY?
If not ....................DO NOT TRY IT.


 But the answer to those with gold hair and why is it  yellow or gold? 
9 times out of 10, the hair stylist PANIC - stricken ....took the bleach off....then frantically tried to cover it up with a toner....so for a couple days you have"OK" hair color ( I use that term VERY VERY LOOSELY ! ! ! !)
Then you shampoo it a 3rd or 4th time and you think YOU did something wrong when all along it was a badly trained hair stylist. 

From my point of view 2 out of 10 Hair Stylists know how to color correctly. I worked in 2 very cool Salons in Malibu. In both of them they had over 20 hair stylists but in each there was me and 1 other person I would trust to color my hair and that is the average in LA. where we have the top school in the world. ! ! !

Not all hair will go through all 10 degrees of decolorization. Each natural hair color starts the decolorization process at a different stage. Remember, the goal is to create the correct degree of contributing pigment as the foundation for the final haircolor result.

The hair is never safely lifted past the ‘pale yellow stage’ to ‘white’ with lightener. Going that light with bleach even oil bleach causes excessive damage to the hair strands.
One must be a seasoned hair colorist when going into the light blond range....we know how far we can go and be safe...and its nothing you can really 'teach'...... its simply experience!

10,000 HEADS of hair I had colored 1 year before I was diagnosed.
 Here is a chart I made so you can see what I am talking about......
It shows the color of hair and the arrows indicate each application of bleach to the hair!




















I can tell by clearing the color off of a strand of hair EXACTLY what stage its at, so that prevents me from leaving the color on too long. 
Now the problem with most bleaching or lightenings you see on the street are done at home? 
The main problem all of you who have contacted me today is you need another application of OIL LIGHTENER>>>> which we sell kits AND i KEEP THE PRICE DOWN BECAUSE OF ALL THE PEOPLE i HEAR THAT NEED THEM......

WHEN YOU ONLY  bleach the hair once.....look at the chart above.... the color leaves the hair REALLY REALLY fast on the first APPLICATION as you can see it dips almost 3 full levels.....THEN, it gets stuck and that is where the majority of America gets stuck .... see where the arrow is after application #1 its on 5. ORANGE!!!.....some of you get lucky and it passes orange and lands on what we call BLORANGE... the chart calls it orange/Gold....I don't care what you call it.......
its hideous.
The only way to get out of this mess is to keep lightening the hair. 
I promise you.
What keeps people in these horrific golds & BRASS is FEAR from using  the lightener again. But when I lighten hair I can't wait to use the next application because the next application will get the hair color OUT of this crappie color.

Big shot Colorist's trick?
> apply it twice . . . . sometimes 3 times - yep . . .in the same day -- the trick is...in knowing when to stop.
> OIL Bleach continues to work for 3 hours. Each hour the speed at which it works slows down. Therefore, the first hour the bleach is jamming & working quickly, then depending on costs - timing - etc...is how we determine if we are going to wash it out and reapply a new fresh batch or leave it in and let the speed diminish.
Sometimes that will be the best answer.
MY usual protocol : I apply our Oil bleach and 30 volume > 1 inch FROM ROOTS and thru ends.... (apply to roots as very last step).. for last 45-50 minutes.
RINSE
Reapply - new batch of oil bleach on ends and in the last 1/2 hour apply to roots.
Being very careful to use very small sections to apply the product.
Many many moons ago (16 years ago) when I did my very first RADical hair color ( I still have the photos).I took an ASIAN gal (PITCH BLACK hair) gave her a Halo around her face of 1 inch -- surrounding her hairline of WHITE hair.... my mentor wanted me to learn how to get to "white" on the most difficult of hair. Asian hair is the toughest to work on because of its 'texture' (its coarse) and its porosity ( it has none)...But, when you have completed either colour or a dynamic cut on it, it also looks better than any other hair.

So its worth the effort -- if you think that way!
It took from 7:00 AM in the morning to 7:00 at night. But it was a pure snow white HALO with JET black Base that I actually made a BLUE-BLACK so the most extreme contrast possible.
That was the day I knew I wanted to master the art of HAIR COLOUR.... and I never looked back.
It was a very sweet ride and I can honestly and proudly say. . . . I can do do ANYTHING in the art of hair color...anything and everything.

Even ended up making up some procedures like "tattooing" hair....
I would bleach white the hair and then paint a Tattoo on the back of the head at the base this was 15 years ago so very early on tin the world.

Back in the day I was not so into computers... so i didn't take photos of all my crazy work when i should have
 I thought I would be doing hair forever I never knew something like this woud take me down....I always thought I'll take photos the next time......I could always re-do it...never thinking this would happen...of course...
as a matter of fact computers are the opposite of hair color....so I understand why many of the TOP colorists are not ONLINE, I would have never done this . . .
had I not gotten sick.
Doing hair is working with people and talking to people so sitting working with and ON computers was the absolute very last thing I thought I would have to do in my life......
here is one guy I had some shots of
- lousy photos -
-but you get the idea . . . . He's hispanic so black hair again...
see what color a bleach should be?
WHITE!
He wanted flames to match the flames he had a car painter > paint on his jacket....
for PROM at MALIBU HIGH - -
- - of course!





It kicked ass


I hope you get the idea with what the problem is when you have brass gold or orange in your hair. Invest in our OIL bleach kit, you will be so glad you did, it doesn't damage the hair at all!

Thursday & Friday Feb. 4 & 5 2016, We Are Giving Out FREE Laminated Level Charts With All Orders Placed !

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Level Charts are something I hope          everyone has 

                           therefore

 we are giving out FREE LEVEL CHARTS              with all orders placed 
                    Thursday and Friday 
                             February 4th & 5th, 2016

            No code 

            No Nothing

   Just Make A Purchase & Receive                           a 
COMPLIMENTARY LEVEL CHART


Knowing the 4 Distinct TYPES of Hair Color is Super Important... Or You May Get In Trouble When Choosing

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 I have a number of Consultations going on at any one time and you will be surprised why I do them really. I like to keep very up-to-date with what everyone is or is NOT understanding as far as my hair color Education Posts on this Blog go.  Therefore when I go through a couple Consultations and I listen to what the people do and do not understand it makes me try to RE-TEACH a subject so that maybe if I approach it from a different angle then maybe more of you will understand it better and more clearly.

For example the "types of Hair Color"
 - right when I feel I have taught it from every single angle possible a person in my  consultation explains how they don't understand what the difference is between Semi-Permanent hair color and Demi-permanent and that could create a gigantic problem that I certainly don't want to be the cause of.....

So when I repeat subjects it is because I want you to read this description from another angle....

1} Temporary Hair Color
Temporary color is what many of you use at Halloween, it can be sprayed in and shampooed out. The pigment molecules in temporary color are large and therefore don't penetrate the cuticle layer, allowing only a 'coating action' ... these color molecules may be removed by shampooing...
This type of hair color only makes a physical change not a chemical change in the hair shaft.
Temporary hair colors are available in a variety of colors & products such as:
  • color rinses applied weekly to add color
  • colored mousses & gels used for slight color/dramatic effects
  • hair mascara
  • special effects
  • color-enhancing shampoos/conditioners : like Boost & BURST

    2} Semi Permanent Hair color 
     Semi - Perm is color formulated to last through several shampoos, depending on the hairs porosity. The pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle layer, but they are also small enough to diffuse out of the hair during shampooing and thus fade with each shampoo. It lasts only 6 - 8 shampoos. It cannot lighten hair, so the change is minor and it does not require the maintenance of "new growth". It is formulated without AMMONIA and is generally as gentle to the hair as shampoo. This is exactly what BOOST & BURST our color enhanced shampoos and conditioners are....

    Many Semi-Perm colors can be used straight out of the bottle, some require an activator - which bothers me as I feel it should stay on the side of Semi-Perm.....or not. The activator develops the color pigments within the formula and helps to swell the cortex and open the cuticle for color penetration, which begins the difference between semi and demi permanent colors.
    In order to understand why the BOXED HAIR COLOR Kits do not work, it is necessary to thoroughly understand 'what' : Semi....Demi....and Permanent Hair color is. So many of you will purchase one of the boxes that claims to "shampoo out in 8-10 washes and find out it doesn't. you wonder 'why'.... so many of you figure you must have done something wrong when you applied it, when in fact you are "set up to fail" to begin with by companies that truly do not give a damn by turning out a product that does not and could not work in a million years.





    3} Demi Permanent Hair Color
     The #1 and most important difference between Semi & Demi is..............Demi is when you begin using Developer. Semi = THERE IS NO DEVELOPER, they are sometimes calling it "Direct Dye" even though that is not really an appropriate name.
    The newest classification Demi permanent is also called ''deposit only'' and referred to as 'semi' permanent by some manufacturers which is 100% incorrect. It is similar to semi, but more long lasting. Some of the European companies have chosen to use super low volume peroxides to differentiate the semi from the demi lines. Honestly, it depends on the manufacturer, the Colorist or the school as to how it is defined. My education is Vidal Sassoon based which is known as the "Harvard of Hair Schools" so I think you'll be safe using my criteria.
    I like to think of Demi Perm Colors as any color line that uses 3 to 15 Volume is Demi-Permanent. Which makes this the perfect category to be used on men's and any hair that needs to be strengthened- colored- add depth to and most importantly SHINE. Wella's Color Touch line gives hair soooo much shine you will be dancing on the furniture after you use it. It is my number 1 line of hair color out of every line and every category.
    MAKE IT YOUR FAVORITE  LINE AS WELL> 
    I RECOMMEND EVERYONE TRY IT 

    AT LEAST ONCE!
    With those numbers of developer, the only action that will happen is Deposit of color - no lift <> no lightening.
    I am of the belief that depositing color in the hair strands of either gray, white, or simply middle-aged (weak) hair can add:
    • strength
    • shine
    • illusion of thickness
    • reduce frizz & tangles.....just try it once, you have nothing to lose.
    IF YOU HAVE lots of gray : the perfect manner in which to color the hair is to use Wella Koleston Perfect on the base and Wella Color Touch on the Lengths......I cannot wait for you to try this! If you need a conversion of your formula - call me I will give you one
    This formula generally imparts vivid color results, and is ideal for covering un-pigmented hair, refreshing faded permanent color, depositing tonal changes without lift, corrective coloring and low-lighting.
    By their very nature, demi's or deposit-only hair colors darken the natural hair color when applied. They cause little or no damage to the hair and are generally positioned as gentle and mild due to their low ammonia or no ammonia content.
     In recent years, many top colorists will apply demi to the 'lengths' of the hair while permanent is applied to the roots. This fights the build-up effect that can occur on previously colored hair and is also less aggressive, resulting in less damage.

    The single best line in this category is WELLA's Color Touch Line, to date... I have tested most every line aned this line is the single best line of hair color in the world currently HANDS DOWN !


    PERMANENT HAIR COLOR 


    Permanent hair color is mixed with developer ( hydrogen peroxide) @ 20 Volume and above and remains in the hair shaft until the new growth of hair occurs. It is used to match,lighten and cover gray hair. Permanent hair color products generally contain ammonia, oxidative tints and peroxide. The single best line that exists on planet earth is Well'a Koleston Perfect . . . I have seen this line cover the toughest of tough gray hair to the most gentle of gentle colors.......all with grace, and shine.....


    The tint formula contains uncolored dye precursors, which are very small compounds that can diffuse into the hair shaft. These dye precursors also referred to as aniline derivatives, combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent tint molecules . These molecules are trapped within the cortex of the hair and cannot be shampooed out and that is why this is considered Permanent color.You have a line of demarcation on the hair once one uses this type of hair color and so it is referred to as PERMANENT HAIR COLOR.

    Now here is a chart I used a lot when I was doing hair I would show it to clients if they were really confused about which color they wanted....I would ask them to just point to one or 2 colors that they loved. Maybe all of you can also use this chart to try to figure out which way you want to go with your hair color as well.......




    Now if you use permanent hair color and you make a mistake I just want you to know that I can solve almost every single problem there is with hair color ...and as big as a sentence as that is I am very confidant I can back it up....so I don't want you to worry if you are considering becoming a Crib Colorist for the first time.... I am here for you.... We have a $49. EMERGENCY Help Phone Call ......if you have just come out of a Salon and your hair is:
    • Green
    • Blue
    • Gray AND NOT THE "good gray"
    • ORANGE
    • YELLOW
    • Etc................its the ER FOR HAIR  
    •  
    There is now an emergency help phone call Item you may purchase in the store. I would hope it would not be any of my Crib colorist Militia - but maybe some of you new to Killerstrands......Its called ER FOR HAIR - A 911 Service for any and all hair color disasters  

    Yes. we have hair color removers and all sorts of tricks that I have accumulated over the course of the last 17 years and I can help everyone with almost every problem or question there is in regards to hair coloring. But, in order to avoid having to use that bag of tricks for all the various problems that permanent hair color seems to grow, I highly recommend that each and every one of you take the suggestion I have made and read the Blog Cover to cover....because

    IF
    YOU
    DO.........................

    THEN 
    YOU 
    WILL 
    HELP
    ELIMINATE

    WHOLE 
    LOT 
    OF 
    HEADACHES 
    FOR 
    YOU 
    AND 
    ME 
    IN 
    THE 
    FUTURE 
    which 
    MAKES 
    for 
    a
    Lot 
    CALMER 
    AND 
    SWEETER 
    LIFESTYLE

    KC

    please...............


     read 


    the


     Blog

    '' 50 Shades Of BACK to Gray '' OR ... How To Return to My Virgin Hair Color (Silver) ?

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     Well, this is A common question this week. . . and while I admire every single one of you for wanting to return to your Natural SILVER Roots - it is not as easy as you may think to have a healthy shiny outcome.

    A lot has to be put into your plan to return to your silver hair and there is just no simple way to do it. Many of you are asking for short-cuts ...... from me. I think you need to read more of my Blog. I will never-EVER recommend short--cuts in hair color. This whole Blog and store is built on the mistakes of others - WHO ALL TAKE SHORT CUTS - while applying hair color or hair color removal. The Art & application of Hair Color Removal is just as important as Hair Color. If you perform it incorrectly you will damage your hair more than an improper hair color ! So think about that sentence for a couple minutes.

    NO.......you cannot just grab hair color you have sitting around the house, because it is convenient. THAT IS HOW YOU END UP NEEDING my E.R.Hair Phone call, which is a new Emergency 5-10 minute phone call with me. Think about the fact that I even have to offer something like that. This is only for emergencies if you feel you cannot get it fixed in your town. Its something I suggest you do before running to a Salon and having them perform a Corrective color procedure (many I hear are incorrect). The reason that is all I hear about is because people with proper color are not looking on the Internet about how to "fix-their-hair color". . . it's already FIXED ! Nothing was ever wrong .... so they are all shopping on Bloomingdale's instead ! ! 
    There is no smooth transition on this procedure ...if you were in my chair it would still be challenging.
    Why?
    If you have Level 1 thru 7 hair color on the hair, that means until the date you decided to turn around and show your silver hair you have been spending a lot of money and/or time on trying to cover it up, so therefore, it will not be easy to remove that color and the very last thing you should use is Bleach. Why? Bleach will alter your virgin hair forever/permanently and in that case the only way out is by GROWING YOUR HAIR OUT& a careful balance of BURST Silver Bullet.

    If you have Level 8 thru 12 hair color :
    Everyone of you has a different set of statistics...but if you have blonde or bleached hair, you will have to give that up immediately. Bleach removes all color from the hair and Leaves a very big line of demarcation.....even if you have silver hair there is still a very small amount of color in there. The goal is to have grown out EVENLY colored hair. If you want to do that you must work on getting it there using the PROPER techniques and products, your goal should NEVER be: SHORTCUTS.... Because if it is. . . .  you will have something GO Wrong I promise you.
    So you will now want to begin using a combo ( like I said) of applying Kenra in 8SM permanently ( unless of course you have found another one to work better as they have 6 SILVER colors now !) and Silver BOOST & BURST.. The thing about BOOST & BURST is, you may shampoo - - towel dry and then apply BURST all over, the very first time only let it process a few minutes, after that you will most like be like others who leave it on 20-30 minutes once a week, then use it once or twice a week while you let it grow out....

    VANISH (Color Remover) & Shampoo Train (Google it) are your only plans of attack for those with darker color on.... you want to get all the color out as gently as possible and those 2 methods are your only choice. 
    Begin now and don't stop until the color is GONE ! ! !
    Once the color is gone you may begin with a combination of KENRA's Silver Metallic color and I have a swatch Test completed which shows you that using 8SM in Permanent and using 10 or 13 Volume gives you the best color by far .... of all of them. That and by using BOOST & BURST in either Silver Brass Bullet ( for those with some brass) OR SILVER BULLET for those with no brass. That is the only way to go from Blonde to SILVER ....safely.  
    Everyone also is asking me how to apply BOOST & BURST during this process which the next Post will deal with exactly and in more detail....as this one needed to be first written so stay tuned for that. 

       




        As your hair grows out to its natural phase, its going to be completely different hair, you may never get those "special curls" you described again....it all has to to do with the texture change. Bleach blows out the cuticle and makes the texture of hair feel and respond completely different than in its normal state.

        Also, Remember every single state that I have heard of has terrible water you will always need to use Chlorine and mineral removing agents....which means : A) a shower filter + 2) Malibu 200 UN DOO GO Shampoo - use at least once a week - when you DO use it....leave it on hair for minimum 4-5 minutes 10 is best,That will remove almost all green. C) Hard Water packets by Malibu 2000 once a week. When water is bad you must do everything possible to remove the never-ending minerals that are in our water ( bad & good). They deposit on the the hair in odd colors, so you must just factor that into your weekly hair color, unless you get your hair water permanently Reverse Osmosis treated you will continue to have the problems which will ALWAYS ALWAYS effect The Color SILVER as well.

        Great Music and Great Hair - Dedication to the Grammy's Tonight!

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        Great Hair and Great sound couldn't resist.

        200-WATT KIT Finds Its Momentum & Has Crib Colorists Raving

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        Many years ago KC was completely frustrated in the fact that she could never find a conditioner that actually worked. They say they'll work - they spout all this BS language that makes you think you better try this one or that brand. Finally after spending from $5.00 to $500.00 ( yes there is a $500.00 hair conditioner) and never being even closely satisfied and being diagnosed, she decided to study Cosmetic chemistry on the web to keep her mind busy. So she could possibly figure out HOW & why these products work --- and then maybe figure out WHY they don't work. Hell, our scientists can fly to the Moon and back, but they can't even condition & de-tangle our hair,  she just did not get it ! 


        So what began as a one month project - - turned into 2 years of deep intense study and camaraderie with a small unique set of people in the early days of the Internet and a fantastic Chemist, who actually developed what we all know as MASCARA for MAX FACTOR many years prior ! !  He was open and willing to teach us all anything and everything he knew, which was one of my earliest mentors & models for how I was going to run my Blog.  In the Hair Industry you are taught to keep your knowledge and tricks in hair color formulating -- TO - . . . .  YOUR  - SELF !!!! That was your bread & Butter and you should NOT give it away ! ! ! 


        But, the more she watched Maurice teach and educate this small group of dedicated people through his BLOG.......the more she learned there really was more fun and more knowledge learned when everyone OPENED UP - SHARED WHAT THEY KNEW. . . or didn't know (tricks + education AND ALLL!  !) and talked to each other. That was when she decided to & to just "GIVE BACK TO EVERYONE SHE NEVER KNEW AND NEVER WOULD KNOW -- Just for the HELL OF IT. 


        NO, its not solving Cancer

        but its what SHE KNEW and it whats a lot of people on earth struggle with and are very consumed with.................SOOOOOOOOO  -  she could Teach. .....and plenty of people needed the Education.  That is how her pride and joy conditioners:
        • THRIVEN- DEEP Overnight Conditioner - Sleep in it  !
        • INTENSIVE - pH & porosity equalizers - soothes scalp an all around miracle
        • GLEAM - A bottle full of the richest most vitamin-mineral& amino acid packed bottle of OILS that exists on planet earth.Price any product with the same ingredients....???? Its well over $200.00 for an even smaller bottle than her 2 ounce !
        • THRIVEN-Lite - Truly a secret weapon, works excellent as a daily conditioner, solves frizz, hair loss (read the reviews)+ pH neutralizer - truly an ALL-IN-ONE-MAGICAL SOLUTION to Jacked-up hair!

        Make Sure Your Hair is ON POINT

                              Check-out Our Top 2 
                                    Made For You 
                                       incl. Secret Supplement
         Happy To Hear . . . . 
                         join the Crib Colorist Militia

        #1. Educate
        #2. Educate
        #3. Educate................oh and Condition !

        Hair Styles & Colour Techique PHOTOS from Europe - Spring 2016

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         They call the technique above ( which has had multiple names over the years..............this year it is:
         COLOR MELDING....
         it can be accomplished with our
        • Creamy Oil Bleach Lightening Kit
        • Balayage Paddle & Tint Brush
        • BURST  in  Mauve.A.Less ( just paint the tips with BURST let it process for 5-20 minutes ( different for everyone) 







        • Girl on the right has ''Tangerine Machine'' on top



























        Battling Brass & Your Endless Search for the Perfect Toner

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        Toners are a useful part of the hair coloring process - some more than others....but if
        you are a Level 9 thru 12 Blonde most of you either want them or need them. They CAN be one of the most fun aspects of hair coloring because most are Demi-Permanent which means they wash out (somewhat) but they DO leave a line of Demarcation (which comes from using any Volume Developer.  If you do not want that line and you need a Toner.....then it is time to head over to our BOOST & BURST page of truly Semi-Permanent Hair Color Toners as the Pigment is in either a Shampoo or a Conditioner - using ZERO Developer - - - THUS .........NO Line of Demarcation ! Yahoooey !

        The following toners are divided up into which DURP they fight. DURP is Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment or in other words .....the tones in your hair that you HATE ! ! Like BRASS, Gold, Blorange, Red or Green. That is the list by its popularity.
        I Truly think Wella's COLOR TOUCH Line is the best line for fighting these annoying tones.....and I don't think many of you have gotten that message. About 5 years ago the company made some changes to the tones they used So If you are looking for Toners that fight Brass/GOLD you would order one of these:
        • 10/1A - 10 ASH which has a Blue/Violet Base and is very light so  Level 10
        • 10/6V - 10 VIOLET - my single fav' Level 10 Toner- Violet based + fights Brass like a champ
        • 9/16 AV - 10 ASH/VIOLET- bit darker - Level 9 Violet/Blue Based toner fights Brass/Gold/Blorange
        • 10/81PA - 10 PEARL/ASH - These begin to look more Silver and are extra good at fighting Blorange
        • 8/81PA - 8 PEARL/ASH - looks Silver, again it fights Blorange well...darkens hair to Level 8 Blonde
        • 7/89PC - 7 PEARL/CENDRE - Xtremely Silver & Level 7 so Dark Silver, looking up Cendre... the definition is "ASH" ! ! So A Level 7 Silver - Great for those with strong BLORANGE as well.
        In using Color Touch as Toners they provide 2 Developers : 6 & 13 Volume, Use 6 if you are looking for something more mild, some of you come here and have very damaged hair so if you need a Toner while your hair is damaged this is your selection - otherwise you would want to use the 13Volume, it will last a lot longer.
        The DEVELOPER RATIO for Color Touch is 2:1...........so for every 1 part of color you use 2 parts of developer. It is also important to get the manner in which you mix the hair color and developer correct. You would have the hair parted and clipped and ready to color....apply your Crib Colorist Cape ...(see below) . BECAUSE . . . . Color Touch uses the 1:2 Ratio, it produces a LOT MORE COLOR to use.... than say Koleston Perfect...which is 1 : 1 . Which is good because most people who need or want a toner, they want it to apply to their lengths. Getting the Developer RATIO is very important in the world of Hair Color. Every single line that is out there has a different ratio and if you do not follow it you will for sure not have a good outcome.Check every single line of color for its Developer Ratio.
        OK, then take the tube and squeeze in 1 ounce of color - then add 2 ounces of 13Volume....stir very well so it turns into a very creamy mixture. Color Touch has a super low content of ammonia and is the most pleasant fragrance and wonderful texture to work with...you will see.
        Now you can take any color of Color Touch use one of these developers and basically call that a toner is  ! ! !  Certain ones are better than others. If you're stumped call or email us and I will get back to you with an answer for you.
        How would I explain a Toner?? Its a useful Tool to fight annoying DURP (dominant-underlying-remaining-pigment), that is left in your hair after lightening . Everyone has a little remaining unwanted yellow - GOLD is the strongest and hardest to remove pigment in the hair strand. It doesn't matter what color hair you have .........its that way for ALL of us.
        Paul Mitchell has a set of beautiful blond toners
        These are gigantic Tubes & depending on length and thickness of hair this tube could produce 1 to even 3 toner applications...most tubes of color are 2 oz. , this one is 3 oz. & remember you add developer to these so it makes a lot of product and the # 1 thing you want to do when measuring hair color is to try to get the amount you mix correct. So you aren't throwing hair color down the drain. You can mix 2 small batches if you don't have any idea and want to learn.
        The names are depicted by the 3 letter acronym UTA, UTN, UTPN, & UTV
        Ultra Toner Ash, Ultra Toner Neutral, Ultra Toner Pearl Neutral & Ultra Toner Violet
        Some of the most efficient Toners we have are in our new Line of pigmented Shampoos & Conditioners that are made by KC herself. If you have followed KC at all you will know that her products made with her experience, quality ingredients and love for what she does makes them, very effective. She just feels there is no use even making them if they are not perfect. Yep, High standards to live up to, but that's how she lives her life.
        First of All we have VIOLET PILOT,
        Violet Pilot - Killerstrands hair Clinic
        Then 2nd & 3rd most popular Blond Toners are BREAKING BAD BLUE  ........& TITANIUM..........both Blues but each a little different from the other. Breaking Bad Blue is Violet & BLue mixed together but heavier on the Blue......Titanium is BLUE/VIOLET with SILVER........therefore it is made for those of you with GOLD as your main problem. The problem with hair color Toners is , they always wash out.....with BOOST & BURST you are putting them in. WWhat most of you will have to do is use Boost /Burst a couple times in a row, then you have enough color deposited that you can back off to once or twice a week and maybe only using one or the other.....E-V-E-R-Y  S-I-N-G-L-E  one of you will discover a different plan for how often you use them and how long you leave them on....but know this: THEY WORK WONDERFULLY against DURP  { which is Dominant-Underlying-Remaining-Pigment, those tones in your hair that you just do NOT LIKE ! ! ! } simply wash and condition your hair as you would ANYWAY and your blonde is toned better than it has ever been.
        I truly suggest you purchase both......but BOOST (the Shampoo) is much lighter than BURST (the Conditioner)....so if you have some heavy pigment to fight brass/gold or Blorange - be sure you get BURST....( the conditioner)...............Maseratiis BLUE/BLUE/VIOLET & another one if you have a lot of blorange or GOLD.....all 3 of these are wonderful for those problems.....

        Now if you have use our Oil Bleach Kit and you have your hair pretty light blond...... one of the most fun BOOST & BURST COLORS to try next is Carbon Beach Beige. Obviously its "Beige" and its a BBBBBBBBBeautiful beige so your hair turns into that gorgeous color of BEIGE BLONDE you see on women yet you cannot figure out how to get it.




        Yes, one may apply a brunette toner on top of bown hair or even black..............but for this page of Toners they are all my choices for the best Blonde Brass fighters that inspire SHINE as well as fighting brass and leaving you with a beautiful Tone in your hair. In using Toners one would chose from the following developer selection:
          Matrix Color Sync Demio-Permanent Toners
        • 6 Volume.........(both 6 & 13 are Color Touch Developers - they have this wonderful soft pleasant scent and are the most gentle - shine producing developers u will use with a Toner, if you have fragile hair this would be your choice)
        • 10 Volume.......(this would be Koleston perfect)
        • 13 Volume......(this is the one I use most)
        Toners are the same as Demi-Permanent Hair Color....and 'why'?

        Because categories of hair color are created by the Volume of Developer you use.

         The first 3 are Toners I have been using for nearly 20 years, I love all 3 colors, they are sheer....gentle....and have the perfect appropriate bases ( violet, blue + violet/blue --- which is considered PEARL!) for blonde/platinum hair. I call adding SPV and SPA the "MARILYN" Toner giving you the Marilyn Monroe tone. Here are the 3 swatches, which are difficult to see,but trust me they are awesome.


                

        from Boston on 12/21/2015
        Comments about Wella Color Touch Multidimensional Demi-Permanent Color
        I really like Color Touch. It is a good option for women with graying hair who don't want to commit to a permanent color. I like it because I can apply the toner at home on my own. It covers up most of the gray and if you select the right color for you, you can't really mess it up. It saves me a lot of money and I simply don't have the time to go a salon that often. I would take the time to select the right color for you though. If you have used other products before and depending on the shade that you use now, you could end up with a color different than what you expected. The good thing

        3 TerrificTricks From Tube To Application - Drop Your Tint Brushes !

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        Recently it hit me that I have not efficiently - if ever -  gone over a couple of these very small subjects that truly DO make a difference in the hair coloring process. They are EXTREMELY important and I think many of you don't even realize it is something that helps the entire process AND your hair color results.
        This Blog is so old and there are so many Posts sometimes I cannot find any history of a subject....so if you read this and/or already knew it.....just know that refresher points are ALWAYS excellent in the education of Hair Color. Hearing tough to understand points explained in different ways - helps you understand better as well. So, onward and upward......all of these points will very probably ruin your hair color results and they are little tricks

        1st.......CAP YOUR DEVELOPER
        When you either get your small bottle of developer or litre, just remember this very important fact : the liquid that is in that bottle, which is what makes the magic work in the art of hair coloring, can lose its 'punch' (I like to call it). Or in other words there is nothing more important than keeping the top on that bottle - (securely) otherwise it will lose its ability to work to its potential. A handful of you will sometimes contact me with pics of your 'failed' hair color, when according to all facts you have given me, it should have worked just fine. This is one option (sometimes right off the bat I don't think of) So I am trying to implant it into my brain as well as yours !I constantly forget to go over these 3 aspects which are all very powerful ESPECIALLY if you have not done all 3 of them, let alone just neglected ONE!   
        BUT, truly this one little tiny mistake can ruin your entire color application. When the 'air' hits Developer its strength (which is needed) dissipates.
        SO: Keep Your Top TIGHT at all times, I panic if I notice it off for 20 seconds, yep its that important. These items are top quality so keep them in top shape for top results! Your developer should only be in the air without mixing for less than a minute any more than that and you are risking the quality of your results and its potency!
         
        2nd..... RATIO OF HAIR COLOR TO DEVELOPER
        Now here is another topic that would completely ruin your hair color results ..... getting the "ratio" wrong. Every single hair color on planet earth has a certain ratio of color TO developer. Can I tell you all of them right here, right now? No, I only have memorized the best hair color on planet earth : Wella Professional Line. Every single line of hair color has their RATIO either on the insert OR the directions ( which on professional hair color was : ON THE INSIDE OF THE BOX. Which is a little secret to keep the public from finding the recommendations by the company on Ratio/ processing times, etc...! Since many of peoples complaints about ''incompetent Hair Stylists'' have become so widespread & public with the rise of the INTERNET and social media I feel the company's are now putting enclosures in almost all professional hair color. But, still......if you don't read the enclosures OR the inside of the box you will not know what the ratio of Developer TO color is. Now, what am I talking about you ask??? I hope you all know, but if not.....here is another reason your hair color might be turning out weird colors when it should be turning out beautiful.  Ratios will look like this:
        • 1:1.....1 part Color to 1 part Developer (for ex:1 oz.hair color mixed w/ 1oz. developer.
        • 1:2..... 1 part color to 2 parts Developer (for ex.1oz.hair color mixed w/ 2oz. developer - EVERY Level 12 or High-lift Blonde is this ratio using 40 Volume)
        • 1:1.5... 1 part Color to 1.5 parts Developer (ex: 1oz. Color mixed w/ 1 1/2 oz. developer - some rare colors use this ratio....a lot of powder bleaches use this ratio. So ALWAYS - ALWAYS - ALWAYS find out what the ratio is on the color you are using.
        If you use too much developer ( for lack of a better term) it waters down your hair color, so you won't get as brilliant of color, it will NOT cover gray as well, it will fade quicker, the shine will not be as brilliant................need I say more? 
        If you don't use enough , if you are going for blonde and you only use 1:1 and don't use 40Volume

        The better hair colors I have found through my own personal use is that when the ratio is 1:1 You have richer - more brilliant and better coverage hair color. So, stop now and check your box on whatever you are using ....... all of Wella's lines are 1:1 EXCEPT Color Touch which is their DEMI Color, which I have found helps with shine and sheerness which is what Demi's should do in my opinion.

        The 1:2 ratio on permanent line is usually the lower quality lines unless there is some secret line I don't know about.....which there could be. My absolute favorite line which died when the owner died........ RENBOW.......which was 1:1 which is where I learned what high quality hair care was.

        3rd TRICK: MIX Color PRIOR to adding Developer : Now the very last little trick which is also what will make a difference in your hair color result is when you are using multiple colors WITHIN a single color line - THE WAY IT IS MIXED - TRULY DOES MATTER. 

        Lets use one of the most common hair color formula's in Wella's Koleston Perfect line for a Level 6 - light brown hair with 20% Gray :
        (remember Wella runs 1 full level darker than all other lines or than the color chart appears)...so the formula would be:
        7/0N
        +
        7/2M
        +
        7/7B.....................+ 20 Volume


        This is how pro-hair color is made to be used. The "neutral" or the " /0 " is used to cover gray. The MATT color which is the 7/2 is made to fight gold/ Blorange type tones and the 7/7Beige - Gives the mixture a wonderful Brown Tone. This is how these lines are designed to be used. It doesn't matter that you are using 3 tubes.....just use a 1/2 ounce of each color - which . . . once it is mixed with developer should be more than enough to do your base.  Then you will have this for 2-3 sometimes even 4 more base applications !
        But what this point is............is how you mix these 3 colors. {I will always always encourage you to purchase a scale...... I find the best scales are MY Weigh's they last forever.}
        So MEASURE your color into your tint bowl, then BE SURE TO MIX IT TOGETHER FIRST, so the raw color is mixed together FIRST. Then & only then, add the developer. 



        A F T E R    T H E    C O L O R    I S   M I X E D   T O G E T H E R   F I R S T , then add the developer


        Preferably measure developer as well if you are going to use our measure cups, then use them for both the color & the developer.

        Now those are my 3 most important oddball rules that everyone should apply every single time they mix up their hair color to apply at home !  

        love to all of you, you have been so heartwarming this month, its all so very much appreciated


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          

        A New FUN, FUNCTIONAL, FRAGRANT. . .Hair Tool: Re-INVENTED at Killerstrands

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         Killerstrands presents a hair perfume-silicone protectant collection that invites you to care for and scent the hair in one gesture. Enjoy the uplifting power of long lasting scents as they subtly diffuse throughout the day, amplified by the natural movement of the hair. 

        Each hair perfume combines one of KC's signature scents she has come up with in her Cosmetic Chemistry classes.....they have ZERO phthlates - so no worries there....incorporated into a unique silicone formula to create a light, invisible veil designed to leave the hair nourished/luminous  & protected while divinely scented. If you add the GLITTER (in any of 10 colors) you have added one more trick this little bottle produces!
        Remember one of its best points as well, it protects the hair from HOT TOOLS! ( flat irons, curling irons even...blow dryers).


        I subscribe to this very fancy but well worth it - hair magazine from London. I have for over 17 years and probably always will....it comes from the UK and is really a beautiful magazine. The UK is just so far ahead of us in hair (color, styling, cuts, health - they have real life Hair Doctors over there  ! ! !) They even sound very important : & are referred to as :  TRICHOLOGISTS and called "Doctors"!!!  

         Ever heard of Philip Kingsley? Well if you haven't you should check into his work , he is like the King Master Hair GURU of all time - he is the # 1 Trichologist in the world and he is getting very old so I ahve noticed I see his daughters name in place of where HIS used to be. He's a brilliasnt man & if money is no object and you need help with the HEALTH of the hair - go see him in London. But I"ve read some of his theories on hair color and I disagree with him....that is because he has never studied nor performed hair color repeatedly 12 hours a day 5-6 days a week ..........which is what I did and the top Colorists do. They have so much experience it really doesn't matter whats in the books, we learn exactly what to do in an exact situation - purely from so much practice!

        When I first began studying Cosmetic Chemistry I was going to take all of the classes needed and become certified myself. I though that would really lend credibility to my Resume, being as I had no clue my career was going to be SHUT-DOWN, so un-expectedly by a cancer diagnosis. I was not prepared, I had not gathered photos and films and everything one must do to promote yourself when you kno longer can do hair....PLUS, This was just before the Social Media INFLUX, but still poor timing all around.

        It has baffled me for years how much better the British are in this field than we are. We lead them in just about everything else. But, it doesn't matter... that is the reason I pay a small fortune to receive this magazine once a month - they even have to hide the way it is shipped to me because people steal it, which I find quite funny.


        Regardless, last months magazine had quite the spread on the newest hot item on top of all the other tricks we have implemented over the years.
         A 2 in 1 COMBO ! ! ! 
         in a multitude of scents....so after some research and back to the mini lab I screwed around  - we now have a spread of 2 & 4OZ. Glossy Hair Fragrances for everyone to choose from. We'll see how you all like them and if they go over well we will be happy to expand the line....everyone here has fallen in love and I will pick a day this week to send everyone who orders a complimentary 1 ounce bottle and we'll see what everyone thinks.

        The Base is Cyclomethicone, ...........and yes, I know some people have a hard time with.....I have never found a study, I believe, that proves silicone's on the hair are bad, I know --- I know there is a whole troop who do, but I have frizzy hair and prefer it smooth and straight so I have used them since they first came out over 10 years ago. I just give my hair a light spray and A VERY QUICK-OVER (very quick) with the Flat Iron, I have the fat-est hair in the world - so I just always like to be UP FRONT with you all and the decision is up to you.

        ALSO A LITTLE GEM WE DISCOVERED .....the 4OZ size works incredibly well with a brand new micro-fine glitter we have received. Most fine and twinkle-y glitter you have ever seen, you can't see the glitter - it just looks like your hair is twinkling accompanied with a beautiful light scent.....the boys will be on the prowl !

        2OZ. &  4OZ. sizes... It works wonderfully in the 4OZ. bottles nozzle, its as if we made it to work with these brand new colors and qualities. Glitter just has me so exited this year....I"m not sure why but it is now made so damn intricately -- what we have now looks exactly like diamonds to me.....its amazing the quality that goes into making it, in my opinion. It really is soooooooo small that just the right amount comes out the nozzle when you spray the hair Gloss onto the hair either to use as a LIGHT FRAGRANCE..... protect it from the heat of the HOT TOOLS.  add shine to dull hair.....or even all 3 ! 


        ZCENTS - SCENTS - ZCENTS - SCENTS - ZCENTS
        by Killerstrands


        GARDENIA/FIG.....with a main single note of Gardenia, this fragrance does have just a hint of rose and tender orchid to accentuate the Gardenia and make it just a bit deeper and more complex.This fresh and green scent features top notes of leafy greens, zesty grapefruit and herbal cassis, with middles notes of Mediterranean fig with floral and powdery nuance ...Gorgeous. Phthalate-free
        LEMON VERBENA MOSS..... its taken me a long time to find all of these and this one has stood the test of time I love as much today as I did the day I first caught a whiff. Who doesn't love lemons. Italian Bergamot, Lemon Verbena mixed with sultry Primrose and Violet. Rounding the blend out is a dry down of Amber and White Musk. Awesome.
        AMBER/ CINNAMON......Our Amber blend also contains notes of Vanilla, Patchouli, Sandalwood - Cinnamon and Musk. KC's All-Time Love + Timeless.
        BLUE ANGEL STAR - The most intoxicating scent of a lifetime.

        Zillions of colors of glitter

        Lots Of You Want Perfectly Platinum Hair Lately ! !

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        Listen, the most gorgeous transition in the world is taking someone with BLACK hair all the way through the entire spectrum of color - beginning with BLACK HAIR and removing ALL signs of pigment.......ending up with the absolute gorgeous color : PLATINUM HAIR . It has always been my absolute most favorite application to do. Most Stylists hate it, but that is because they do not know how to get PLATINUM hair, they can only achieve Yellowy/Brass  and to do that is not rewarding AT ALL.

        It takes a lot of dedication, a lot of patience and a LOT OF OIL BLEACH LIghtener to apply the correct amount of times, in order to achieve Platinum.

        What is every hair Stylists' and every CRIB COLORISTS' main fault when trying to achieve Platinum hair color? ? ? ?  
        • NOT Applying Enough Applications. Unless you are a VIRGIN Level 8-9, you will need multiple applications of Oil Lightener always lightening the lengths FIRST - then the base - LAST. Oil Lightener means: Lightener in the Oil which is then added to Oil in the Creamy Oil Base. Make the investment and purchase our Oil Bleach Kit, it is worth every teeny tiny penny.
        • Be sure youread every Post on this Blog that deal with both going Platinum. . . .


        Pitch Black AsianHairTurnedSnow White


        a bit of a side note here . . . . . . . . .
        a Salon trade magazine ran a pertinent article on Taking Asian Hair Blond. Its funny, when I'm working on a post, I will see a million things along the same line ... in the weirdest places....Send out good energy . . . it WILL come back to you

        anyway . . . .

        Trends throughout Asia and with Asian-Americans all come from Japans Harajuka district and the tweens there. While practically needing dynamite to get Asian hair - - blond , super blond is the hottest color to have. SILVER & PASTELS are very popular.

        That was printed in our top Salon magazine. I have a couple of my own comments towards her theory of bleaching Asian Pitch black hair in that manner:

        • When bleach is applied the majority of its lifting ( Lightening) ability is done in the first 55 minutes...it still works for another hour or 2- but at such a snails slow pace that it is worth it to take the first application off rinse - INTENSIVE......RINSE....DRY. RE- apply a brand new batch! ...
        • I discovered if you rinse andre-apply a brand new batch, the process is much more effective. Re-applying a NEW batch, helped speed the process a long.  I f you REAPPLY (approx) 3 times in one day (using our Oil Lightener Kit ONLY!!!) .  You will be very close to perfectly platinum!
        • Once you remove the hair color (if needed) you may use 30 Volume on the ends with the first batch if hair was a Level 1-2 3 and it's needed - then OK go-for-it!
        • You can get an Asian -- Blond in one day, is my theory - if you use my tricks. I've done it many times, and with nicely conditioned hair, as well. The most important trick to accomplishing this....is so the hair remains in superb condition, is the use of ONLY an : OIL LIGHTENING KIT
        • If you have put your hair through too much in one day.... wait a week. Do that very last bleaching a week later and then apply the toner.... the best time to apply a toner is when the hair is freshly bleached.
        I see no reason to take 5 days to bleach hair. I've heard of a few people doing it over 2 or even 3 days but never...5. If you follow my directions you won't have to do that either.

        You can only tone blonde bleached hair........remember that.

        The process needs to be called the BLEACH& TONE Process...ALWAYS always Tone bleached hair. ...........................Did I say..to bleach toned hair? Good.


        This Asian girl has Red Ribbons in her hair,
        The process begins with bleached "ribbons" { they are 1/4"-1/2" pieces of hair} ,(which do not need to be white,- frozen butter is fine) rinse, bright Semi permanent red applied to the bleached pieces.


        I put this in here to remind you of the Levels hair lightens.... With Asian Hair the first bleach may only get the hair to the RED/BROWN Level....its a lot more resistant than caucasian hair, the First bleach on caucasian hair will get to the Orange/Gold or Gold Level {most likely}.
        ......see why there is a lot of gold and Yellow blond's walking around ?? 
        It is the single stage where hair ( anyones hair) get stuck....as it goes through the lightening stage.
        From talking to a lot of you I can see the biggest problem with most -- is hesitation with putting the bleach on more than once. I can tell you from 18 years of hair in Hollywood and MALIBU....I never bleached anyone's hair once.
        Except Trevor. Remember Trevor? He is a Natural Level 9! Super Rare.






        See the different "tones" of Blond here??? 

        Underneath they are bleached the perfect, 'pale yellow/white'.......... then a different color TONER is applied.

        Above has a Pale Golden Blond Toner, The second has an Apricot IceToner (tiny bit of copper in blond) . . . . the small photo below is Platinum Or "white toner" .... I used to call it the Marilyn White toner............Now can you see and thoroughly understand TONER??
        Tomorrow you will learn to apply one. The Directions will double as directions for semi permanent Color  (Purchase BOOST & BURST in Violet Pilot in BOOST & Breaking Bad Blue in BURST, use it right after you have lifted the hair light enough and you will have sparkling platinum white hair.


        I am going to go over the Application procedures for EVERY SINGLE type of Color
        Using a HEAD SHEET ( piece of paper w/ 4 heads drawn) so you will know
        • where to start,
        • how large to make the partings
        • width of the partings for application of color
        all the particulars, so your feel more secure when your buying color and developer separate - - - trying to get you all away from KITS!!!! . 

        Is it working???
        HOW DOES THAT SOUND?


        Brand New Sulfate-Free Shampoo Balls = Nohbo: Available Now on Indiegogo - Its Time To Start Paying Attention!

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         Why Nohbo Shampoo Balls?


        As the human race continues to exist on this planet, we have to take into consideration our environment. Nohbo is one small step to help reduce plastic and waste making the world a cleaner more livable space. 

         These balls are the size of a quarter. Absolutely ZERO packaging, don't just think of you.....think of your children and your children's children.

        Well, I happened upon one of the most innovative products in hair shampoo that I have ever seen. Being as the majority of you ask us about shampoo's every single day of every week, we figured you would be as interested in this as much as I am. But...NO, it is not quite available yet - which believe me I found frustrating as well..But, lets help the kid out and start talking about it. We are 6,000 people strong here at Killerstrands Blog and that is THANKS to all of you ! Now I rarely ask anything of all of you but I am going to this time.


        YUK - plastics

         I feel I have finally found the answer to everyone's questions and the funny part is a 15 year old boy developed this and it was presented on the TV show SHARK TANK ( which I don't watch) I happened upon this idea from my Cosmetic Chemistry magazine, which is saying a LOT that the editor of the magazine wrote a small review of the product and the fact that a 15 year old invented it - - AND I AM SO VERY HAPPY THAT THIS KID DID THIS ! ! !  and the one developer that I truly admire, " Mark Cuban" took a huge interest in this idea/shampoo and invested $100.000. and acquired 25% of the company. That was all I needed to know to make my own small investment and we will carry it as soon as its available (they say some time next month). 
         I LOVE THE MESSAGE, the formula, the idea, every single thing about the company


        NOHBO is name of a small ball which is a shampoo ball
        With all the plastic we use ( just check out every single hair product shelves in every single store you go in now. { no longer is it just the Salons - companies have figured out that people are obsessed with their hair and they will buy expensive hair products even if THEY DON'T WORK ! ! 




        Aboveis a list of the features of NOHBO Shampoo Balls to give you an idea of what is important to the company it gels alongside my ideas about hair care as well, which you can see.




         So, for the very first time I would like to ask all of you to do a little Social Media spreading for me and for the kid, I think the product will be the answer to many of your requests for a wonderful shampoo. I promise as soon as I get my first one, you too, will hear about it.....




        Thank you so much for listening and reading my little story.

        KC

        2 Products w/ Same Ingredients. . .Why is One So Different Than Other?

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                How can 2 products with the 

                               same ingredients be so different ? ?

                      FORMULA  QUANTITY  VARIATION


        2 Products can have the same ingredients BUT....they can have "different quantities of the same ingredient" (you never know how much of an individual ingredient is IN 1 product - that is not required  … it is the QUANTITY of those ingredients that can completely change the :  feel, design, reaction, hold OR shine, color, look or just about anything ...  ......... depending on which product you are making. 

        Think about it .........HAIR COLOR PRODUCT #50  is a hair color product both have the same exact ingredients EXCEPT the ingredients of just a long list of ingredients are different ONLY IN THE RED & WHITE GRAMS - Total.

        BURST   Product #A: has 4 grams of red Tint  & 50 grams of White........
        WHILE
        BURST  Product #B:  has 50 grams of red Tint with 4 grams of White pigment 

        Product A looks like this  :


        Product B Looks Like this:

              

        LOOK AT THE DIFFERENCE !  

        They both have the exact same ingredients and finally I can show you very simply what I mean E-X-A-C-T-L-Y with these 2 photos. This is a visual  demonstration of what I am referring to as an EXTERNAL "Formula" VARIATION that has the exact same ingredients only DIFFERENT amounts of those 'same' ingredients.   It cannot only be a VISUAL demonstration....it can also be an INTERNAL Variation differential treatment. MEANING : what it actually does to the internal & external structure of your hair is and can be completely different.

          EVERYTHING regarding the outcome of a product can be changed dramatically merely by the change of the amount of a certain ingredient that is added or subtracted.
         The Absolute #1 most important topic for THE RESULT of any Hair Color or Product AT ALL????  . . . . . . . .is. . . . .:
                                            THE FORMULA 

        There are thousands of OILS out there on the shelves, but not one of them creates the results of our GLEAM . . . . . . . 
          
                                  . . . . . . . . . why is that ? 

        Killerstrands uses massive amounts of the most expensive Oils on Earth, 2 in particular !  Which makes GLEAM, completely cure hair damage + Create Shine & Solve Frizz in frizzy hair.  Personally I have battled my own frizzy / dry hair.....therefore for a lifetime I have battled this horrible trait personally which creates a completely different set of rules when formulating a hair product to help cure your OWN hairs'  problems.  There is NOTHING like being able to formulate hair products for your OWN HAIRS' faults and problems !! 

         I simply tried to solve this one problem........  It really does and I have not ONE hesitation saying that.

        Just give yourself DAILY - HOT OIL (lots OF)TREATMENTS (using the Soft Bonnet Hair Dryer to take advantage of heat) which drives conditioners INTO hair strands....and then at night apply overnight Treatments of THRIVEN for the complete HAIR DAMAGE RESCUE TREATMENT of the Year ! ! ! ! 

        If you want every single trick I have you would also need to Add INTENSIVE,
        using it after Color Treatments to LOCK in Color and to be used as much as you can after your daily shampoos as a daily conditioner if needed. 

        Remember....do NOT use a daily conditioner solely because you think you need one.

        Add the SECRET SUPPLEMENT { Google it.... } daily if you struggle with health, growth or thickness of hair... OVER 80% of people who begin this habit of taking 1 SS/per day will give you an extraordinary amount of hair growth, it changes the hair thickness / hair density per day....give it 45--90 days if nothing changes in that

          It's the QUANTITY of ingredients not the fact that its on the label, they can put 1% of Rosehips Oil in a product & then are allowed to put the name"ROSEHIPS OIL" in the label. . . . . just the same as if we added over 50% of the TOTAL formula.  

        So there are many MANY tricks to creating hair products, and until you really learn how to create a hair product from the ground up its very difficult to understand the whole world. I accidentally grabbed a chance to learn how to formulate hair products from a very famous MAX FACTOR Cosmetic Chemist....which was the true "KEY" to 
        KILLERSTRANDS HAIR CLINIC
                                                      SUCCESS

        I was so very lucky.....unfortunately the man died about 3/4 of the way thru his training(in his Lab at 5 in the morning just starting his day!), but that is the key to my knowledge bank...( many people ask me that one!!!)




        Balayage (hair painting) : The Theory That Doesn’t Fly (for me) & Why

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        The More You Know the Less You FEAR

         balayage  Had 1 more sad story emailed to me about Balayage this week,  this is a topic I have been tap dancing around for the entire time the KS Blog has been in existence. I have been promising forever to address my opinion about the technique. So, while it is not at all what I was planning on writing today, sometimes adapting to my readers, is the smartest decision.

        About 18-19 years ago {yep, that’s how old this technique is} I first got wind of BALAYAGE. I can still remember hearing about it, and thought, uh geez……one more “cowboy color” move, I never talked or thought about it again. Once a year – every year, some new “technique’ within the hair color world gets introduced and then proceeds to (almost) always fail. I'm not saying no new hair coloring techniques won't be successful.....but you have to remember that unless a new chemical has been introduced, millions have people have been working on this issue for over 100 years......many brilliant artists and cosmetic chemists have been working and playing on new techniques and art forms....

         This dinghy Balayage is like gum on my shoe ( I hope some of you have learned about my kooky sense of humor -- as well ! ! !This damn Balayage technique is like gum on my shoe and it just won't go AWAY ! ! !  Everything about it makes absolutely no sense, although for interest in the comment section shows that many of you sure are intrigued by it.... can some of you poor souls that fell for it, tell me what intrigued you about it in the first place??? I would love to know what intrigued into this ding-dong procedure….???

        Having wondered ‘where’ these quirky little processes  come from, makes me question - - the reason behind them. Within a Colorists world there is always a “new” technique around the corner. That new technique is almost always just a new name for something we already do, which means it is merely the result of the hair world’s > “Marketing-machine”.  In other words . . . the theory is, if a new technique is announced it will get more people into Salons. Yep, that’s how the world of Color rolls! Why do you think they show pure white snowy blonds ( see my previous post) one month and raven dark haired vixens the next. As long as “change” is happening in hair color, then its a good thing for the “business” of hair color and the world of hair. If everyone were to remain a level 8 B ….year after year after year, what a boring ho-hum world it would be, and how hum drum it would be for business. Just like everything else in today’s world, Hair Color is first and foremost  - -  a business - -  and it needs rejuvenation and spark to stay interesting and 200296483-001provocative, just like any other.
        I was trained at …. Vidal Sassoon. A school that has strict rules and regulations for extremely valid reasons. I admire their ways & means of teaching and continue to follow them all to this day. This entire BLOG is littered with both: KC-isms & Sassoon-isms… so if you want to learn the same, I would read and absorb……..read and absorb.
        Now, when any Colorist is preparing to color a hair models hair, the first step always is the “consultation”. To me there is no more important step. The reason so many Stylists/Colorists make mistakes, is because they don’t take the time necessary to properly analyze this step and look at their clients hair back story. It is crucial to a successful outcome, to fully
        • analyze the hair’s characteristics,
        • learn the previous color processes performed
        • understand the “desired” look
        Now, one of the biggest and most common mistakes one will see on blonds, is when the hair turns yellow/brass/orange/gold . I’ve tried many ways of explaining why that happens, we will try another one today. There is a misconception that ‘brass’ is a color and it can be removed, when nothing could be further from the truth. Its a bit of an ‘odd’ concept how the color Brass, or blorange, or Gold shows its ugly head in hair. But let me try  to explain how, where and why it comes from. I can’t tell you the amount of readers that have asked me if they could use the artificial hair color remover “VANISH” to remove the BRASS from their hair.’ Another KC-ism in Hair Color is
        “ ALWAYS USE THE PROPER TOOL FOR THE JOB “
        balayage.blonde.painting.2Using Vanish is the complete wrong tool, and it seems to be my issue in not teaching this concept properly….as to why some of you don’t understand why.I would like to try to get this clarified in this post, if you don’t understand, PLEASE ask in the COMMENTS section below, so I can see what I am missing.

        When you apply color to the hair you are adding color . Color + Color (=) makes more Color, so the hair has more pigment. If the color used is addition only, the hair will often (but not always) be darker.
        All virgin hair is shade of brown; it contains all 3 primaries. When hair is dark brown…it is the ‘bluest’ brown -  level 1-4. The most warm browns ( auburn ) are Levels 5-7. Then the lightest or most yellow browns are level 8-10 . . . the color is an uneven combination of the 3 primary colors, still.
        Black is super dark Brown…. and blond’s are super light brown.
        Brown is made from mixing different amounts of Red, Yellow, & Blue ( the primary colors). So if there is more yellow than red or blue, the brown will be light, even beige. If there is more red than the other 2 primaries, the brown will be warm, and if there is more blue than the other 2 the brown will be dark and cooler looking.
        Complementary colors turn a shade of brown when mixed together, for ex: yellow mixed w/ violet achieves a pale brown; because yellow; the stronger color, will dominate the formula. Violet is made from red and blue(primary). When you mix yellow with violet, you achieve a shade of brown. Mixing opposites on the color wheel always results in a “browning out” effect.
        Understanding all this about COLOR THEORY, truly is the basis for being a great Colorist. While I know 98% of you merely want to be able to color your own hair correctly. Unfortunately, understanding “COLOR THEORY” is a necessary part of  the puzzle. So, all these little rules and laws will help as you turn your hair from brown to blond and back again. Look at education (any education) as one more means of expanding your knowledge base. killercutscolors565
        When finally comprehending color theory, it can benefit much more than hair color, it can add to the Interior or Exterior Design of your Home, the Clothing you put together and wear, it can even benefit the Frosting or Decorations you make on a cake. Color Theory affects many different aspects of ones life, and once it sinks in,you will find yourself having “aha” moments that deal with color theory revelations randomly.I receive emails from new Crib Colorists all the time with various stories of how color theory has popped  into their everyday life. Remember ANY education, is good for you.
        When I would teach this color theory concept to new COSMO students….they would ALWAYS look at me as though I was wasting their time, so I went back to basics and required all students purchase a set of PLAY DOH. At least with something as fun and as nostalgic as PlayDoh, I could get past their anger & puzzlement and tap into their thirst for knowledge. Having them mix a small portion of yellow and red PlayDoh together – would show them the result was ORANGE….then add an equal portion of blue ( primary) ………what do you get?????………….BROWN. Then mix all different combinations to show them, all primaries when mixed equal brown.. its pretty cool to watch a entire room of COSMO Students have an “AHA” moment. And that “AHA” moment is about how the primary colors of red-yellow & blue, when mixed in uneven amounts equal BROWN! With BROWN being the color of all hair, it is a pretty significant realization. Most of them don’t realize that, but eventually they will.
        FIRST, some color theory. . . . .
        to have a balanced natural hair color:
        all 3 primaries must be present
        An imbalance (lack of any of 3 primaries) of primaries leads to an imbalance of end result
        Therefore if you are blond, with brassy tones, the method one would use to “COUNTER” the brassy tones is what?
        If the hair color is brassy, that means the primary that is the strongest is the YELLOW.
        {Primary colors are Red, Blue & Yellow}
        So, if the YELLOW is predominant and is what is causing the hair to be an obnoxious brassy color
        Use the rule, that if the color is objectionable, then play with the primary colors to solve the problem.Take the 2 other primary colors…..???? RED & BLUE, mix them together which makes PURPLE ( right?)
        Add a PURPLE TONER to that brassy Blond and it will knock that brass right out of the hair .
        Once you begin to lighten hair….warmth is released. The first pigment to be released during lightening is BLUE. If you start with the blackest most coarse hair and begin to lighten it with bleach, you immediately see a change.
        Because BLUE is the first pigment to leave the hair, you would go very quickly into the RED Zone, which is also the most difficult zone to leave. However if you use a microscope to observe the same black hair being lightened, you would see a different dominance of pigment at each step
        So, if you were to observe the amount of natural pigment remaining in the hair at each level under a microscope, you would see a dominance of blue pigment at LEVEL 1 – BLACK, Which makes sense because black is really the BLUEST BROWN.
        • Level 2: very very dark brown, a dominance of blue/violet, which is still very dark but not black,prevails.
        • Level 3 : violet dominates
        • Level 4: violet/Red
        • Level 5: Red
        • Level 6: Red/Orange
        • Level 7: Orange
        **LEVEL 7, btw is the most difficult stage or level to get past  -  all the trouble with brassy colors in hair stems from this
        • Level 8 : DURP Gold
        • Level 9: Yellow
        • Level 10: Very Pale Yellow10 degrees99
        Now, that is an overview of where “brass” comes from and why it is so very difficult to get rid of. It is the most dominant color, it is the hardest color to counter, and the most impossible color to eliminate. There is no avoiding it, it is the most predominant color in everyone’s hair, no matter ‘what’ color the Virgin hair is.
        Now to explain ‘why the Ballyage technique makes no sense to a Colorist…..or to “this Colorist” anyway!
        The color hardest to get out of the hair………Gold/Brass {Level 7 Brass/Gold is like Glue}
        The way in which hair is lightened is by applying bleach to the hair. The bleach then “lifts” the  color OUT OF THE STRANDS….in an effort to lighten it into the desired blond shade of choice….. in other words its like  sucking the color out the strands of hair…..
        (I want to put this in the most simplified terms possible)
        Say the hair is BLACK………….and you DESIRE PLATINUM
        The mixture of Bleach plus 40 VOLUME DEVELOPER  is applied to the black hair and the bleach begins to suck the color out of the hair…………..
        The lightening train goes like this….color is drawn out of the hair strand in this method:
        • BLACK - ->>> GOES TO
        • DARKEST BROWN ----> > >TO
        • DARK  BROWN  - - -> > >  GOES TO
        • BROWN  - - -> > >  GOES TO
        • LIGHT BROWN - - - -  GOES TO
        • RED - - - > > >  GOES TO
        • RED-ORANGE---->>> WHICH goes TO - - - >>>
        • ORANGE- - - > > >  WHICH THEN GOES TO
        • GOLD  - - -  - which goes to
        • YELLOW - - - -> > > >
        • PALE YELLOW BLOND
        • PALE BLOND the desired colored when millions of women go looking for a Sun-Kissed Blond Look).
        Now what happens to so very many blonds that have BRASS instead of BLOND….is the lightener ( of whichever type or kind has been used)has not been left on long enough, OR a strong enough developer was not used. Resulting in the hair lightening up but getting stuck at the “GOLD” Level…..see it up there? If the lightener would have stayed on longer or a stronger volume developer would have been used it would have been able to climb those remaining 2 levels to PALE YELLOW BLOND .
        Now when this dippy Balayage method, paints the Lightener on the hair –  FreeHand as you see in this photo:  001 Ballyage001
        Why would you paint the lightener on the hair free hand? I have no idea what that accomplishes?
        I wonder if they think it looks more natural??  It won’t.   ………I wonder if they think it’s faster ?? Most likely.. . . .
         Foils are difficult to learn - they had foiling BOOT camps at Sassoon because they not only wanted your foiling work to be 'pretty' looking - when the foils were on the head  ( which at first I thought was sooooooooo bizarre - who cares??? ..............then after I finally absorbed and understood the entire Sassoon world and education I finally GOT IT ! While the other people in the salon had screwy looking uneven and  horribly placed foils - yours would be perfect and orderly, it not only made your client feel special I cannot tell you how many clients switched to me to be their Colorist -- SIMPLY because of my foiling work. I OWE THAT ALL TO SASSOON ! ) Remember Foils keeping moisture in and on the strands. Moisture keeps the lightener active and working, the last thing you want is for it to dry out.........which is what will happen to it in the AIR .....during Balayage. Do you really think no one thought of this before?  That's the part that gets me. So 70 years ago when all of these techniques were first being formulated you don't think the first Colorists didn't think of painting the bleach on the hair FIRST????

        OF COURSE THEY DID.

        Because when you did that the client would repeatedly end up with brassy hair - then the hair needs to be "re-colored' and REPEATING lightening processes is called OVER-LAPPING and check in my rules about how to achieve the most damage in lightening hair. OVER-LAPPING is at the top of the list. 

        They figured out a long time ago if foils were used that the majority of people would have properly colored blonde hair. They did NOT make up the process just because they wanted to add a useless step to lighteninig hair. 

        THAT JUST IS NOT HOW TOP COLORISTS ROLL !
         and all of you who think they do, are wrong.

        I know this is a very conterversial subject but I stick to my guns about how foiling is the proper method for achieving natural looking streaks or ribbons or ropes or pieces or whatever you want to call little pieces of hair that are lightened lighter than the rest of the hair.
        FOILS are hard to learn. Ask anyone who is an A List Colorist and if properly placed they can achieve the exact same look with less time and more control.



         Here is another photo of Balayage, which I would foil and would achieve this exact same look.

        images
        As a Colorist what I want when I color hair is “control”. Control and Timing so I know exactly what is going to happen and WHEN. If you are to paint lightener on the hair you are going to lose the body’s warmth that comes from using foils. Once the lightener is applied to the strand of hair then the foil is folded over that strand …. both the body and the foil create HEAT a very mild warmth which is actually just perfect -- it gently helps the lightening action along. if you don’t use foil, you lose that, which means you have a much greater risk of ending up in the BRASS RANGE. The dreaded BRASS – range......... its why we use foils. 
         Lightening hair without the use of foils is archaic and unnecessary. If anything, apply the foils with the lightener, as hair stylists you must learn how to check hair that has lightener on it, and KNOW WHAT STAGE IT IS, I mean it doesn’t take long…in about 2 months of practice you could be good at foils and should know what hair looks like when you scrape off the lightener from a clients foils….to be able to tell whether or not you should rinse a client now or in 20 minutes. Yes, its an  art, but dammit, get GOOD at that art….its why you went into this biz, don’t be a slacker.

        I cannot even figure out what the purpose of Balyage is, to be perfectly frank. With foils you can create just about any work of art you would like….. foils let Color 1 be on a certain portion of hair. . . . while allowing Colors 4-7 & 9 to NOT be other portions…. 

        Using foils are the mark of a Great Colorist. Everything they claim Balayage can create we have been doing for years with foils. There is a certain strain of hairstylists that don’t use foils and the only reason I could possibly imagine for not using foils is laziness. Foils are used for the heat they retain – the art they allow to have and the mobility they impart when trying to display a rainbow of colors WITHOUT BRASS in the blond’s.
        I will have at least a half dozen people every week ask me what they can do to get the brass out…..or the ‘orange’ out…I ask how the Stylist colore3d their hair and the answer is ALWAYS BALAYAGE!!!!!! So, if you believe nothing else, believe that, or your own experience.
        The only way to lighten hair with “control” over how light it does or does not get is with Bleach. So many are hesitant of the use of bleach, . As an experienced Colorist, bleach can be your best friend … there are just soooo many uses for it, but never ever use it without plenty of experience behind you.
        Balayage began in the country of France, which explains a lot (to me) . Balayage,  is a French term for hair painting. It is a freehand placement of highlights, without the use of foils, allows for a more natural color application that complements and contrasts in all the right places.THAT is what the textbooks say. I say, bring back the foils!

        This is what Balyage looks like;

        balayage.blonde.painting.2
        Think before you request this technique, ask that Stylist if they also do foils. Remember foils give the colorist more control and  get the hair PAST that dreaded ‘brass’ stage.
        Something.................anyone Loves !

        A Whole Lot of Hot Air - - Dyson Does Dryers . .Hair Dryers ! !

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        Guess who making HAIR DRYERS?


         I'm sure there is not a 1 of you who has not heard of DYSON. The man has dominated Late-night TV - in both fillers AND infomercials for over 30 years. You'd have to have lived in a cave to not know what he has done .

        Four years in development, the company spent $71 million (and took all that time !)  to make its hair dryer, with the sort of specifications and research backstory of a car. The press release explains the 600 prototypes , over 100 patents pending, and a cast of 103 engineers that worked on it. It helps to explain the price ($400), but even salon-level hair dryers hover around the $300 mark. 

        Founder James Dyson reckons existing dryers can be 
        "heavy, inefficient, and make a racket !"

        Thirty-three years ago, James Dyson set out after an unusual dream: to create the ultimate vacuum cleaner. After thousands of prototypes, failed licensing deals, and countless fruitless meetings with distributors, he finally got his bagless vacuum into stores in Britain, then in the U.S.—and took both nations by storm. 

        Known as the Dyson Supersonic and unveiled in Tokyo on Wednesday, the device is his response to a question many never thought to ask: Is it possible to make a better hair dryer? This may not seem like a big deal. A few burned scalps and frizz issues aside, people have been doing just fine with the standard hair dryer for decades. But, as Dai Fujiwara, a Japanese fashion designer who collaborated with Mr. Dyson on an Issey Miyake runway presentation, wrote in an email, “Because everyday life is too common, people rarely realize there is a problem.”


        About 92 percent of British women regularly use a hair dryer (according to the consultancy Mintel), while 75.5 percent of all women and 24.5 percent of men in the United States and 97 percent of women and 30 percent of men in Japan use one (according to Dyson), and most spend an average of 20 minutes on each session. So changing even a small percentage of that behavior could have outsize repercussions.

        Mr. Dyson, Britain’s best-known living inventor, is the Steve Jobs of domestic appliances. He has built a fortune from making otherwise standard products seem aesthetically desirable, in the process persuading untold numbers of consumers that they really, really want cordless and bagless vacuum cleaners, air purifiers, bladeless fans and even household robots.



        Still the sole owner of his company, Dyson, 64, turned that vacuum design into a billion-dollar business and he still likes living on the edge—as long as it doesn't interfere with getting 10 hours of sleep every night.....I have to completely agree with him on that second point. Getting 10- 12 hours of sleep is so dynamic for hair you can actually notice the difference in a matter of weeks!. Without having to 'buy' anything.........'go' anywhere.........or 'apply' anything - - - getting a substantial amount of sleep is paramount for good hair health

        When you're asleep your body is repairing itself, that is "WHY" we go to sleep to begin with. Ever tried to stay up for 3-4 days in a row? I don't know if ANYTHING feels worse ..... don't you ? Catch up on your sleep and your complete look, attitude, hair & health is rejuvenated when you have more than enough sleep. Just try it.
        ................But back to Dyson.

        “There has been zero innovation in this market for over 60 years,” said Mr. Dyson, 68, a billionaire who was knighted by Queen Elizabeth II in 2006.
        “Millions of people use contraptions daily that are hideously inefficient, waste their time and are causing them long-term damage,” he said. “We realized that:
         ''we could - & should - 
        sort this situation out.”
        He triumphantly held up what appeared to be a sleek black and pink plastic doughnut on a stick. “Four years, 100 odd patents and 600 prototypes later, I think we might have found the answer.”



        Known as the Dyson Supersonic and unveiled in Tokyo on Wednesday, the device is his response to a question many never thought to ask: Is it possible to make a better hair dryer?







        “His inventions are disruptive — beautifully so,” said Terence Conran, the British     restaurateur, retailer and furniture designer. “Who would have imagined that a bagless vacuum cleaner could become a highly covetable status symbol? He has made other businesses think differently about how to use design, creativity and innovation.”

        Mr. Dyson studied furniture design and architecture at the Royal College of Art in London. He is currently provost there. “His advocacy for the discipline and for British manufacturing has had a profound influence on the British national psyche,” said Dr. Paul Thompson, rector of the Royal College. Now Mr. Dyson is trying to extend his influence into un-chartered territory: the global beauty and grooming sector.

        Dyson said there were 103 engineers involved in the creation of the Supersonic, which included the taming of over 1,010 miles of human hair tresses and 7,000 acoustic tests as teams tackled three core issues: noise, weight and speed.
        Ground zero for the project was the Dyson research facility, a Willy Wonka-like world deep in the rolling Wiltshire hills, with a Harrier fighter jet and spliced Mini car in the visitors’ parking lot.

        Photo

        Sir James Dyson in his office.Credit Andrew Testa for The New York Times

        Projects are kept firmly under lock and key from virtually all outsiders – as well as many within the walls itself (which, like those owned by Roald Dahl’s flamboyant fictional chocolate factory owner, are often painted a lurid purple).
        Matt Kelly was one of many young engineers milling around the plant in near identikit uniforms of hoodies, jeans and sneakers or battered brogues. “You can sit next to someone in the cafeteria here for years and not have the first idea what they are working on, and they will have no clue what you do, either,” Mr. Kelly said. “Discretion and an ability to keep secrets are essential traits if you want to work at Dyson.”
        Especially when doing something so counterintuitive as moving from the practical question of what to use to clean carpets to the more touchy-feely question of what to use to style a personal image.
        Ed Shelton, a design manager for the Supersonic, said: “It was the hardest project I’ve ever worked on. Beyond having to crack the science of hair, we’ve had to tackle a highly subjective user psychology.

        Photo

         
        A desk in Mr. Dyson’s office with various sources of inspiration.
          
        Credit Andrew Testa for The New York Times

        “Trust me when I say there are many more approaches and angles to blow-drying than vacuuming in the world. British women want volume. Japanese women want straightness. No one wants hair damage. And then we had to create a fleet of robots specifically to test that over and over again.”
        The company says the key to the Supersonic is its high-speed 13-blade motor. About the size of a quarter, the motor is small enough to fit in the base of the hair dryer handle, rather than in the conventional motor position at the top of the device, a shift that creates its unorthodox streamlined aesthetic.

        Dyson has a new mission.............to create a dynamic personal hair dryer.....one thing he HAS done is change the design and he has made the tool look like it should be mounted and hung in the Museum of Modern Art.!       

         It..... is...... B-E-A-U-T-I-F-U-L  ! If that's something you care about....I mean those snazzy vacuums can be hung on your wall like a piece of artwork, but where does your dryer sit? Mine is jammed in a drawer out of view.
         Maybe people would hang this one up on their bathroom walls ( as in another art piece).


        "By looking at the old models further, we realized that they can also cause extreme heat damage to hair." He believes the Supersonic solves those issues. Three magnetically-connecting attachments can adjust the output for different hair styles, and include a diffuser and... can you tell I'm out of my depth? Those accessories have a "double skin", so that while the inner part gets hot, the outer stays cool. (That's a cool idea!)



             
        Dyson's long-awaited "silent" hair dryer, unveiled in May but available for purchase by JUNE !!!, is powered by a small, light motor that makes it quieter and more compact than current appliances.



        “His inventions are disruptive — beautifully so,” said Terence Conran, the British restaurateur, retailer and furniture designer. “Who would have imagined that a bagless vacuum cleaner could become a highly covetable status symbol? He has made other businesses think differently about how to use design, creativity and innovation.”

        Mr. Dyson studied furniture design and architecture at the Royal College of Art in London. He is currently provost there. “His advocacy for the discipline and for British manufacturing has had a profound influence on the British national psyche,” said Dr. Paul Thompson, rector of the Royal College. Now Mr. Dyson is trying to extend that influence into hitherto unchartered territory: the global beauty and grooming sector.

        Dyson said there were 103 engineers involved in the creation of the Supersonic, which included the taming of over 1,010 miles of human hair tresses and 7,000 acoustic tests as teams tackled three core issues: noise, weight and speed. Ground zero for the project was the Dyson research facility, a Willy Wonka-like world deep in the rolling Wiltshire hills, with a Harrier fighter jet and spliced Mini car in the visitors’ parking lot.

         As with any other Dyson device, research and development didn’t come cheap: The investment, including a state-of-the-art hair laboratory, reached £50 million (about $72 million).
        As a result, the Supersonic will retail at $399 when it arrives in the United States at Sephora stores in September, a price at stark odds with the low-priced high-volume business model that has traditionally defined the competitive hair dryer market.

        Currently, hair dryers sold by Amazon in the United States retail for $12.99 to $219.98.
        Still, Dyson has a convincing track record in persuading fans to pay hundreds of dollars on domestic status symbols that spend most of their working lives in the cupboard under the stairs or next to the dog basket.

        But there have been expensive failures along the way.

         More recently, some of Dyson’s boldest claims, about advancing science in certain markets, have also been called into question by critics like the University of Westminster in London.This month the university released research suggesting that Dyson Airblade hand dryers spread 60 times more germs than standard air dryers, and 1,300 times more than standard paper towels, although the assertion is one that the company emphatically and repeatedly rejects.

        So the hair dryer stakes are high and the market deeply fragmented, not least by the popularity of newer hand-held electrical appliances like straightening irons and curling tongs. Can Dyson really pull off another product revolution?

        “This all does feel a lot more personal than usual,” Mr. Dyson said. “Which I suppose makes me a little nervous. But actually, I have found everything we are learning with the Supersonic very exciting. It’s the start of a new push into this sector for us. Though I can’t tell you more than that.”  What he can say is that the company is set to spend £1.5 billion (about $2.2 billion) investing in future technology and recently announced the development of four new portfolio sectors. While bullish, he also knows that not all his 21st-century inventions could be winners.

        “I actually believe that success teaches you nothing; failures teach you everything,” he said, surrounded by sketches and prototypes in his meticulously cluttered office. One hundred new products are in the pipeline in the next four years around the world, he said. The hair dryer is just the beginning.

        “For decades, people have just accepted a subpar experience because no one was offering them anything else,” said Stephen Courtney, concepts director at Dyson and a leader on the hair project. The company wants to change that, one locker room, spa and beauty salon at a time.

        The majority of this article was written by Lizzie Paton from the NY TIMES, she did such a great job I let it be and added a little of my own, I felt many of you would benefit from.








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         Using BURST in "PRINCE  Color"


































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































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